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Thank's for the replies (deadrx7conv and LLigetfa). It's good to know that it can't be disabled. And as far as them paying for a month of the car rental, I do understand your thought's on that issue. I'm really surprised it took them that long to replace the wiring. And when they diagnosed it they said the engine would have to be replaced. Before they diagnosed it they said it would either be the wiring or the engine. I could understand if they said it was the wiring after they diagnosed it, but when they said it was the engine, just makes my suspicious mind go into hyper drive.
 

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Well I took my car in for the latest recall, the ECU update. About three days later the car went into limp mode. Drove it back to the dealer and they told me it would be either a wiring problem or I would get a new motor. They gave me a rental car to drive. The called me and told me that they would be replacing the motor with a long block (New engine). I had the rental car for over a month then they called me and said I could pick up my car and return the rental. When I arrived at the dealer they told me that they only replaced the wiring bundle.

The car seems as though it's running okay but it sure makes me wonder if they just disabled the knock sensor hoping the car would hold up for the remaining 13,000 miles left on the 120,000 mile warranty.


Any thoughts?
keep us posted! guess the wiring harness was on backorder and that's why you waited a month. Would have been nice if they told you what was going on. They just keep blowing.
 

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Jesus. Received letter for extension of warranty for front coil spring 10 years/120k miles. Of course I'm sitting at 182k miles.
So done with Hyundai products.
 

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So I might be apart of the club now, 144,xxx on the ODO

Driving last night, as I was coming to a red light my car stalled. No knocking no warning signs...etc As this happened I tried starting the car and Smoke started coming from under the hood. Smelled more like an electrical wire burning than oil or anything else. Put the four ways on and popped the hood. The smoking stopped within a few minutes, went ahead to try and start the car and all I got was a click from the starter solenoid, engine would not turn over. Had the car towed back to my house under the impression that maybe the starter fried or I have some form of a short.

I went ahead and checked all the fuses and relays this morning and they are all good, nothing visible is fried.. I tested the battery and its CCA was around 500, so thats fine. I checked the Oil, level was right on full (did the oil change about 300 miles ago) didnt notice anything other than clean oil on the dipstick. I tried starting it again and it was doing the same thing where the starter solenoid would engage but not turn the engine over.

So I think that my starter has possibly failed, but that wouldn't have caused my stalling issue in the first place. So im thinking possibly the engine seized and thats why the starter cant turn it over.

Next thing I did was remove all four plugs and use a bore scope to inspect each cylinder for any damage. Cylinder 1 is at top dead center, no visible damage to piston face, cyl 2,3,4 all look good as well. Next thought is to see if I can spin the crank, if I can free spin it, then my thoughts are I had a short or an electrical problem I need to further look into with the starter circuit.

I go ahead and grab a socket and a two foot breaker bar and try to spin the engine over by hand... Sure enough I cant get it to budge at all.

So I think the engine is seized, Or some freak thing happened where the starter gear got lodged into the flywheel. But im leaning towards just a seized engine.

Performed a full Code scan and received these codes:

C1102 Battery Voltage Low
B1742 P-SIS(Side Impact Sensor, Pressure) Front-Driver Communication Error
B1102 Battery Voltage Low
C1613 CAN Wrong Message
C1126 TPMS ECU Battery Voltage Low
C1312 Sensor 1 Radio Frequency Channel Failure
C1616 CAN Bus OFF
B1602 CAN Error

Got a bunch of error faults for CAN network communications. which could be related to something frying when i tried starting my car again. But im not to sure.

I dont see how any of these faults could prevent the starter circuit from engaging and at least turning over the engine. So thats my step by step diagnosis of my car. I just had it towed to the dealership so ill wait and see what they say.
 

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... I just had it towed to the dealership so ill wait and see what they say.
There have been other reports of engines over 120K being covered and replaced under the recall, and hopefully that will happen with your vehicle as well.

Just curious about the oil change history, and oil type and filter brand used. Not trying to imply it has anything to do with the failure, just something of interest to many of us on this forum. Also wondering if this engine was making any noise in the recent past, especially if it sounded like possible knocking. And lastly, was the sound test and/or the 953 knock sensor update done on your vehicle?
 

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There have been other reports of engines over 120K being covered and replaced under the recall, and hopefully that will happen with your vehicle as well.

Just curious about the oil change history, and oil type and filter brand used. Not trying to imply it has anything to do with the failure, just something of interest to many of us on this forum. Also wondering if this engine was making any noise in the recent past, especially if it sounded like possible knocking. And lastly, was the sound test and/or the 953 knock sensor update done on your vehicle?
Oil change history, First 90,000 miles I was using synthetic 5w-20. my OCI was 4500-5000 miles. Then i switched to 5w-30 Quaker state conventional and a OCI of 3750-4000 miles. Reason why I switched I noticed Oil consumption occurring, usually its 1-1.5 qts in between oil changes. I always Used a Hyundai OEM oil filter. Not enough consumption to warrant me bringing it in to the dealer for the consumption test. I have had a few Blackstone samples checked, all looked ok and no indication of lead, copper...etc (bearing material) in the oil.

It has always had a lower end Knock as far back as I can remember. Kinda like piston slap. It was extremely faint at it never got louder over time. Once the engine was fully warmed up the you couldn't her the noise at alll.

No recalls were performed in regards to the engine, none. Last oil change was a few weeks ago, nothing suspicious seen during it.

I know the engine was spotless on the inside. I did a valve cover gasket and a HPFP line back in may and I took a picture. Everything on the upper end looked beautiful.
 

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Thank's for the replies (deadrx7conv and LLigetfa). It's good to know that it can't be disabled. And as far as them paying for a month of the car rental, I do understand your thought's on that issue. I'm really surprised it took them that long to replace the wiring. And when they diagnosed it they said the engine would have to be replaced. Before they diagnosed it they said it would either be the wiring or the engine. I could understand if they said it was the wiring after they diagnosed it, but when they said it was the engine, just makes my suspicious mind go into hyper drive.
Hi... This is Dave in Spring Valley - San Diego Ca... My 20115 Hyundai Sonata with 58,000 mi just had a similar problem where it went into 'limp mode with wife doing 65 on the 8 freeway. near Alpine ca .. Had car towed to Penske Hyundai La Mesa Ca... scared the 'bejesus' out of her... I'm not sure if she will ever drive it again.... Diagnosis pending.. Dave B
 

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Oil change history, First 90,000 miles I was using synthetic 5w-20. my OCI was 4500-5000 miles. Then i switched to 5w-30 Quaker state conventional and a OCI of 3750-4000 miles. Reason why I switched I noticed Oil consumption occurring, usually its 1-1.5 qts in between oil changes. I always Used a Hyundai OEM oil filter. Not enough consumption to warrant me bringing it in to the dealer for the consumption test. I have had a few Blackstone samples checked, all looked ok and no indication of lead, copper...etc (bearing material) in the oil.

It has always had a lower end Knock as far back as I can remember. Kinda like piston slap. It was extremely faint at it never got louder over time. Once the engine was fully warmed up the you couldn't her the noise at alll.

No recalls were performed in regards to the engine, none. Last oil change was a few weeks ago, nothing suspicious seen during it.

I know the engine was spotless on the inside. I did a valve cover gasket and a HPFP line back in may and I took a picture. Everything on the upper end looked beautiful.
Mine seized four weeks ago at ~131,000 miles. Towed it to my mechanic also thinking it was a starter or electrical issue. They couldn't turn the crankshaft. Towed it to a dealer who confirmed the engine seized. All the did was drop the oil pan to see if I had in fact been doing oil changes (shocker, I was using a 5w-30 full synthetic changing every 5000 miles for the life of the car). They saw it was spotless, gave me a rental car and said 2-8 weeks for a new engine. Two weeks later it was done.

They gave me zero hassle even though I was well over the mileage. I of course appreciate that.
 

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Mine seized four weeks ago at ~131,000 miles. Towed it to my mechanic also thinking it was a starter or electrical issue. They couldn't turn the crankshaft. Towed it to a dealer who confirmed the engine seized. All the did was drop the oil pan to see if I had in fact been doing oil changes (shocker, I was using a 5w-30 full synthetic changing every 5000 miles for the life of the car). They saw it was spotless, gave me a rental car and said 2-8 weeks for a new engine. Two weeks later it was done.

They gave me zero hassle even though I was well over the mileage. I of course appreciate that.
Thanks for the comeback.... I change mine every 3000.... I see soot in the tailpipe at 58k miles... Hmmmmmm.
 

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An update for everyone:\

Hyundai approved a replacement engine. They also are going to replace the starter because it fried when i tried to restart the car with the seized engine. Im in a loaner car for the time being.
 

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keep us posted! guess the wiring harness was on backorder and that's why you waited a month. Would have been nice if they told you what was going on. They just keep blowing.
Penske Hyundai just called... Wiring harness... be ready Tomorrow... BTW... My 'Limp' mode occurred on Friday the 13th with a Full moon... out on Hiway 8 near Alpine CA... CHP Officer "Todd" rescued my wife from the freeway.... Thanks CHP !... Dave
 

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Penske Hyundai just called... Wiring harness... be ready Tomorrow... BTW... My 'Limp' mode occurred on Friday the 13th with a Full moon... out on Hiway 8 near Alpine CA... CHP Officer "Todd" rescued my wife from the freeway.... Thanks CHP !... Dave
Well: We got the car back Thursday and now it's Saturday so my wife decided to continue the trip she had started Last Friday... You won't believe this but, at almost the exact same call box on Hiway 8, about 25 miles from home.... @ 3,000 ft elevation going uphill... "Limp Mode" kicked in again and she had to be towed from the freeway again...... Dejavu ?
Today is Monday and the car has not been diagnosed yet so we don't know if this problem is related to the Knock Sensor Recall that got this whole thing going in the first place... One thing is for sure... no matter what the fix, I am going to request that the car be driven up the same hill and beyond 3,000 feet elevation... to ensure it won't happen again...
My personal 'diagnosis' is that the sensitivity of the knock sensor is now such that changes in elevation cause the computer to 'lean out' the fuel mixture too much thus causing 'pre-detonation' or Knocking... thus the Limp Mode activation at 3,000 feet elevation.
any ideas ?
 

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Well: We got the car back Thursday and now it's Saturday so my wife decided to continue the trip she had started Last Friday... You won't believe this but, at almost the exact same call box on Hiway 8, about 25 miles from home.... @ 3,000 ft elevation going uphill... "Limp Mode" kicked in again and she had to be towed from the freeway again...... Dejavu ?
Today is Monday and the car has not been diagnosed yet so we don't know if this problem is related to the Knock Sensor Recall that got this whole thing going in the first place... One thing is for sure... no matter what the fix, I am going to request that the car be driven up the same hill and beyond 3,000 feet elevation... to ensure it won't happen again...
My personal 'diagnosis' is that the sensitivity of the knock sensor is now such that changes in elevation cause the computer to 'lean out' the fuel mixture too much thus causing 'pre-detonation' or Knocking... thus the Limp Mode activation at 3,000 feet elevation.
any ideas ?
Get rid of the car.

Seriously.
 
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