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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings!

We have a 2011 Santa Fe that has ABS and TCS lights staying on. Took it to autozone and they pulled a code that said rear passenger wheel speed sensor. In an effort to fix it we ordered new sensor. Can see how to unplug from wheel area though the wire heads into the car through the wheel well and would appreciate if anyone knows how to access the plug inside the vehicle, do I need to remove inner body panels etc?

Thank you!
 

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Greetings!

We have a 2011 Santa Fe that has ABS and TCS lights staying on. Took it to autozone and they pulled a code that said rear passenger wheel speed sensor. In an effort to fix it we ordered new sensor. Can see how to unplug from wheel area though the wire heads into the car through the wheel well and would appreciate if anyone knows how to access the plug inside the vehicle, do I need to remove inner body panels etc?

Thank you!
Rear wheel speed sensor diagram attached, the attached photo shows the location of the sensor connector is for 2006 model only, it may not the same for the 2011 model.
 

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Might be easier to trace the wire from it to see if there is a plug further along the route under the vehicle. I doubt very much it goes inside to plug into the harness.

Just because you have that code does not mean the sensor is bad. It could be something else!! Tone ring damaged/cracked etc. Needs to be inspected by a qualified mechanic. Code merely point you to an area or fault not responding. The reason is not that that part has failed in itself.
 

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Not a typical replacement item for us, but possible

As to connector, peel weatherstrip at right read door opening to release panel, lift it enough to see where you going, shop rags or towel balled up and shoved in between panel and body to hold it open,, reach in and unplug connector

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Awesome, appreciate the direction here!

From what little I have read looks like a shot in the dark that it is the wire. Going to try to put Ohm meter on connector and see what that gives? Is there a more common cause of the code which
comes up as C1209? Like I said, I went to autozone and they were great in using their OBD scanner though perhaps like stated a mechanic would have better scanner. Am reluctant to take it to the local
dealer as they have been bit difficult in the past, though perhaps better than chasing a ghost with my own time if there is a scanner that will tell us exactly what issue is. Thanks again!
 

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Awesome, appreciate the direction here!

From what little I have read looks like a shot in the dark that it is the wire. Going to try to put Ohm meter on connector and see what that gives? Is there a more common cause of the code which
comes up as C1209? Like I said, I went to autozone and they were great in using their OBD scanner though perhaps like stated a mechanic would have better scanner. Am reluctant to take it to the local
dealer as they have been bit difficult in the past, though perhaps better than chasing a ghost with my own time if there is a scanner that will tell us exactly what issue is. Thanks again!
C1209 Info/Guide.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Finally had a chance to get back into this issue. Put voltmeter on the rear passenger wheel speed sensor and turned the wheel and got nothing. (voltmeter set to AC and 2V.

So was thinking I figured it out. Well just to be safe I put the meter on the driver side rear and turning the wheel also did not seem to generate any current. Am I missing something?
 

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Try the DC range since its only a pulse it generates a voltage rise only.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tried DC as well and also no current/signal. Looks like can measure passive resistance on sensor as well?

Happen to know if these hubs have sensors that can be replaced, or if I may have luck power washing the hub to try and get out any dirt etc.

Also I tried disconnecting battery and pulling abs/esc fuses to see if I could clear the lights and after driving to see if warning lamps would come back on, but I cannot
seem to get the lamps to turn off? Does this mean code is stored or the vehicle is sensing error at ignition?
 

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Finally had a chance to get back into this issue. Put voltmeter on the rear passenger wheel speed sensor and turned the wheel and got nothing. (voltmeter set to AC and 2V.

So was thinking I figured it out. Well just to be safe I put the meter on the driver side rear and turning the wheel also did not seem to generate any current. Am I missing something?
Did you have the sensor powered up at the time as per Wongpfh's C1209_4.pdf? An oscilloscope would be handy here, if you can beg, borrow, or steal one.

I have to agree with Tripplec's post #3, it might not be the actual sensor.
-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks like what I thought would be a quick and easy diagnostic is bit above my pay grade... perhaps best to take into the shop..
 

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I have not seen anyone I know or myself have a wheel sensor failure other than those built into the wheel bearing (when the bearing is well worn the sensor doesn't work). Rust interfering with it is the most likely reason. Unless the cable itself got damaged.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I checked the wire to the sensor and do not see any damage... Perhaps I'll just change out the hub and see it that fixes it. Is it common for these modules to go at on a vehicle with 70,000 miles? We have a lot
of rain here in Florida so I can see how rust could form in there.

If I replace the hub and that fixed the issue will the dash lamps go out by them selves or will I need a code reader to clear codes?
 

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Codes will clear once diagnostics detects things are normal.

There is no sensor in the hub of the 2008, I doubt yours was done differently with an internal sensor which cannot be seen.

If the codes is flagging that wheel something is not right with it. Cracked tone ring gear also slim but possible. A general brake shop/garage might pin point if for you with minimum expense.

Dash fault indicator should go out after one or two diagnostic cycles. Some codes may remain for historical reasons. Not sure on that after some thought. But brakes, ABS lights should go out and ABS ESC should function normally again.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Are you saying it is most likely not the sensor/hub? I think the sensor is built into the hub as one piece and must be changed as one part on this 2011?
 

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You could look it up on RockAuto or other parts sites. If you wheel sensor cable is going into the hub, then the sensor is now built in!!! A change in the new series but if not there will be a piece bolted somewhere near the back wheel bearing plate. I don't know that vehicle that well. Check with various sources if the bearing is different now.
 

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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sante Fe GLS, FWD, 4cyl. It had the ABS, DBS, and TCS light on and produced C1206 Wheel Speed Sensor Rear-LH Open/Short on the scan tool. I replaced the sensor, which on this model attaches inside the panel next to the rear seat and plugs into the hub, secured by a metal clip. Lights continued. I replaced the hub assembly, which is the hub including the electrical port that the sensor plugs into. This fixed my issue for $46.08 from AM-Autoparts on EBAY (AM-4109368338).
 

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Seconded. I have a 2010 Santa Fe SE, that lit up the ABS/TCS lights. Pulled extended codes (mythinkcar.com, had bought the Thinkdiag reader), got the C1209.

Also fixed my issue with a new hub assembly, got mine from Rockauto.com.
 
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