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Discussion Starter #1
Just had e - brake shoes replaced and was told I have a rear wheel bearing starting to go. Which one on Rockauto should I go with ?. Didn't call the local parts places yet but I'm sure they are double the price. Just want to make sure the one I order is good had a front one go a few years ago and had to get it done twice don't want that to happen again pay for labour twice. And like the title said I have the FWD 3.3. tks
 

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Do you intend on keeping it for 2+ years? If so, buy SKF or Timken. If less than 2 years, any bearing is fine as long it’s installed properly ( NOT impacting the axle nut on, doing it by hand with a torque wrench ).
 

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Pretty easy job, but if you go to shop, ask other mechanics. Some shops warranty on both part and labor if they provide the parts. Best aftermarket bearing will be timken
 

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In the majority of cases it will be well rusted onto the backing plate. But you don't have the rear drive shafts and ring gear in the way to work on removing it.
 

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Thanks for the replies guys yeah I still haven't decided how much longer I will keep the old rig. I keep flip flopping on that one. Its still in good shape very little to no rust but have been wanting something newer smaller better on fuel. I have thought of doing it myself but don't have a garage and the weather is not the best here in the maritime's this time of year.
 

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It’s very easy on your car. Since you don’t have the awd model it’s a piece of cake. 4 bolts and pop it in and out. The backing plate might stick, soak with penetrant and give it a wack with a hammer. If you take it to a shop, expect 1 hour labour. I wouldn’t pay more than that.


Thanks for the replies guys yeah I still haven't decided how much longer I will keep the old rig. I keep flip flopping on that one. Its still in good shape very little to no rust but have been wanting something newer smaller better on fuel. I have thought of doing it myself but don't have a garage and the weather is not the best here in the maritime's this time of year.
 

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Well I tried 2 hours soaked the **** out of it with PB blaster and wacked it 50 + times with the hammer but she would not come off. Sucks but she will have to go to the shop............getting to old for this stuff.
 

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Well I tried 2 hours soaked the **** out of it with PB blaster and wacked it 50 + times with the hammer but she would not come off. Sucks but she will have to go to the shop............getting to old for this stuff.
you may need slide hammer. Rent from autozone or advance auto parts for free
 

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Ah yeah, not sure which is rusted. Bearing or rotor, I know on minge the rotor will rust tight to the bearing face and no lube is going to get in there. I may have damaged that bearing wacking with a 10lb hammer before getting it off. I was only doing full brake job, new rotors and pads all around. The bearing will be well rusted to the backing plate as well. Not a good design for the rust belt for sure.

I paid up doing one rear on my AWD it was too hard and going wrong over half way though. Threads on all that already.

A torch is the only way to get it to release a bit at the e-brake drum. Propane isn't going to work.
 

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yeah Tripplec your right poor design for these Canadian roads full of salt and slush. Its hard to believe rust can do that. Well hopefully it will be just one hour labour at the shop, it is a very simple job as others have said. Off topic a little but what cars today have the best rust resistance ?.
 

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LOL Oh well that depends on the areas I would say. However, the SF is particularly bad in the bearing, caliper, and rotor areas for rust taking over excessively. FWD bearing is free and clear access, but you still have to deal with the rust. On my AWD it a lot harder with the tone ring in the way. I gave up on it (doing it myself).
My wife is using it now as I replace it with a 4WD Highlander a few weeks ago.
 

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Save the money you’ll spend at a shop and buy a little compressor and impact hammer. Air tools will supplement your old age lol. Mine wouldn’t come off the plate either. Severely rusted together. Can’t really blame the design as these cars are going on 10 years of salt/snow. It’s bound to happen. It took me a good half hour of hammering to free mine. The other side came off in 10 seconds of air hammering.
 

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LOL
I have all that, impact guns, ratchets grinders etc Air and electric. Don't help on these. Acetylene torch needed but not going that route here.
 
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