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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I look for instructions to replace the rear rotors on my car and was unable to find any help, after I'm finally done doing the work I'm going to provide some helpful tips
Tools require.
12mm rachet wrench
12 or 14mm socket (sorry I forgot which one I use)
#2 phillips screw driver
Rubber mallet
small flat head screw driver
Brake piston compressor tool
Patience.

Parts require.
New rotors (duh)
New set of ceramic pads.
Brake lubricant
Brake cleaner


Before doing anything make sure your front tire is properly secure so your car wont roll forward or backwards, you cant set the parking break or you wont be able to remove the rotor after taking everything apart.
Open your hood, open your brake fluid container and leave it open. when you compress your piston that will help relief the back pressure created

Jack stand you vehicle, remove your tire and remove the 2 phillips screws from the brake rotor, remove the rubber plug from the rotor and install it on your new rotor.

using a ratchet and the socket locate the 4 screws on the back of the hub assembly and loosen them up, Don't fully remove the screws

Fully remove the expose caliper bolt with the 12mm wrench. move the caliper away from the rotor as much as possible to make some space so you can loosen up the almost unreachable second bolt

locate the second bolt its at the of the rear suspension control arm, the bolt cant be remove because the end of the rear control arm its right in front of it and the rear control arm cant be fully remove because the shock absorber is on the way as well. (Thank you Hyundai engineers for making a simple task so hard)

with the ratcheted wrench loosen up the bolt, since you cant fully remove the bolt pull the rotor and caliper towards you until you set the caliper free. this is the reason why you loosen up the 4 bolts on the hub assembly so you can pull the rotor and caliper away from the rest of the wheel assembly.

if you were able to take everything apart, remove the old rotor, place the new one, change your pads, (don't forget to compress the piston before placing the new pads and please apply the grease to the back of the pads to avoid noisy brakes).

put everything back together in the order you remove it and I hope this helps. any questions I'll be glad to help.
 

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using a ratchet and the socket locate the 4 screws on the back of the hub assembly and loosen them up, Don't fully remove the screws

Fully remove the expose caliper bolt with the 12mm wrench. move the caliper away from the rotor as much as possible to make some space so you can loosen up the almost unreachable second bolt

locate the second bolt its at the of the rear suspension control arm, the bolt cant be remove because the end of the rear control arm its right in front of it and the rear control arm cant be fully remove because the shock absorber is on the way as well. (Thank you Hyundai engineers for making a simple task so hard)

with the ratcheted wrench loosen up the bolt, since you cant fully remove the bolt pull the rotor and caliper towards you until you set the caliper free. this is the reason why you loosen up the 4 bolts on the hub assembly so you can pull the rotor and caliper away from the rest of the wheel assembly.
Interesting...thanks! :thumbsup:
 

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Thanks for these instructions! So it is possible to remove the rotors without having to first remove the 19 mm shock absorber bolt so the 19 mm rear control arm bolt can be tapped out? If so, that is great to hear! A few weeks back, I changed the rear brake pads which were close to stuck on the sliders (thank 7 years of winter salt) and staved off having to replace the rotors which from all my reading is a PITA to get to.
 

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Nothing hard about replacing rotors,, I just remove bolt for arm, pry end of arm out of yoke,, now you can remove 2nd caliper mount bracket bolt.. make part swap and re-assemble..

With the mounting bracket, pop the 2 fit shim off, and file rust off so surfaces is flat and clean again, apply something to slow down rust build during this pad cycle.. refit new shims, lube, and install new pads, should move freely with clean up and lube.

Remember to adjust brake shoes up to fit drum of new rotor..
 

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If you're loosening and not removing, are you breaking it loose with a box wrench?
 

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One item you might want to do is grind down the ears on the new pads. When new, they are a tight fit and the longer they're on, the tighter they get. Have seen many with plenty of "meat" remaining, but needed a punch and a hammer to get them out of the holders. I grind the ends as well as the tops and bottoms of all the ears so they slide in very easy.
 

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One item you might want to do is grind down the ears on the new pads. When new, they are a tight fit and the longer they're on, the tighter they get. Have seen many with plenty of "meat" remaining, but needed a punch and a hammer to get them out of the holders. I grind the ends as well as the tops and bottoms of all the ears so they slide in very easy.
I had to take a chisel and hammer to get the original pads off at 78K! Plenty of meat as you mentioned, but some of it chipped off as I hammered to get them off. The new pads went on nicely with new clips and lube, and I'll do a yearly check to see they are moving easily.
 

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One item you might want to do is grind down the ears on the new pads. When new, they are a tight fit and the longer they're on, the tighter they get. Have seen many with plenty of "meat" remaining, but needed a punch and a hammer to get them out of the holders. I grind the ends as well as the tops and bottoms of all the ears so they slide in very easy.
New pads should not require any modification at all. All rust and buildup should be removed from the mounting brackets (as indicated by SBR). I always remove all rust and build up in the bracket area and use new hardware (as its usually like 10 bucks an axle).

Anytime I have been involved helping people fit pads that "didn't fit" its been due to build up of some kind in the hardware mounting area not allowing a proper fit of the hardware and then causing binding of the pads.
 

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Oh not again... stop making this so hard. Do it my way.

Remove the bolt for the bar, ziptie it out of the way. Then after you install the new rotor and caliper bracket, use an alignment bar to align the holes for the bar and reinstall the bolt!
Thanks. Haven't had to do mine yet, but I will keep your method in mind when I do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Guys the first time I did this it took a while, on the other side was fairly quick, I don’t have and impact wrench or the ablity to lift the car that high. i’m upgrading the front brakes with the xg350 calipers and possibly changing all rotors to slotted so if I go that route I’ll post pictures of the entire process. on the video he takes the arm bolt out. I couldn’t cause it hit the shock mount.
 

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on the video he takes the arm bolt out. I couldn’t cause it hit the shock mount.

You over thinking it.. spin nut off,, start to tap bolt through.... Use something to finis push bolt out of place (I use small punch and hammer to tap bolt through)...

Flange on bolt will ride along tube of shock, knock to bolt out..

When I go to re-assemble, pint bolt and bore with anti-seize, line up, and install bolt back with nut on forward side.. that how we do them.
 
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