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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I wonder if anyone can shed some light on what should not be a problem ?
Has anyone removed the rear light clusters from their i10? Not wishing to break any hidden tangs attached to the cluster etc, I have removed the three screws that secure the light cluster to the body but that is as far as I can get. The mounting moves a little but does not want to be easily pulled away from the body.

The same problem exists for both sides of the car and having just removed the 3 screws on the daughter’s car her light does not easily detach from its location either.

Just as well it is not belting down with rain ! :(
 

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Hi,

The outer edge of the lamp is located by two prongs which locate into spring clips on the bodywork. After removing the three fixing screws the outer edge of the lamp cluster needs to be pulled directly from the bodywork to release it. The clips are quite tight.

TOA
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (theoldape @ May 8 2010, 03:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=320878
Hi,

The outer edge of the lamp is located by two prongs which locate into spring clips on the bodywork. After removing the three fixing screws the outer edge of the lamp cluster needs to be pulled directly from the bodywork to release it. The clips are quite tight.

TOA

Thank you very much, just been out for another attempt and the nearside cluster has pulled out ok. As you say there are two slightly mushroomed prongs that were holding it in. I was expecting some form of hooked brittle plastic clip that was stopping it coming out.
I have just removed the cable grommet from the car and disconnected the multi-pin connector so I can work on the cluster away from the car. If anyone else does this, just make sure you secure the other half of the multi-connector so it does not disappear back in side the wing.

Two photos: one shows the actual prong on the light cluster backplate and its spring clip attached to the body of the car [attachment=17817:Cluster_...p_bottom.JPG]

the other shows the back wing with cluster removed and the multipin socket wedged in its access hole. The black dot top left is the top prong mounting hole. [attachment=17818:Cluster_removed1.JPG]

Thanks again, I can now get on with tracing the wiring. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (Mr Pogle @ May 8 2010, 11:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321032
So come on Steve........ what are you up to :eek:_75:

Tow bar and single socket. :D

I was intending to get the electrics sorted out 1st but while head scratching over the rear light removal and not wanting to crack the light units, I fitted the towbar this afternoon instead.
I have removed the nearside floor trim panel just by the rear passenger door and exposed a wiring loom underneath so next step will be to try and associate the cable colours with the multipin connector attached to the light clusters. No doubt there is another loom on the other side of the car so will have to remove that trim panel too. I just hope the colours do not change between exposed loom and lighting cluster. Having said that if the colours do not match then it will be a pin to lightly puncture the insulation and my multimeter to trace what feeds which light. If other folk on the forum had not said how fragile the boot side panels were (prone to split and crack when trying to remove) I would have had a go at removing them 1st.

Being the wife’s car, the modifications will have to be hidden and interior kept intact :wub: ................or I will be for the high jump.
 

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QUOTE (Steve_W @ May 8 2010, 08:03 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321053
Tow bar and single socket. :D

I was intending to get the electrics sorted out 1st but while head scratching over the rear light removal and not wanting to crack the light units, I fitted the tow bar this afternoon instead.
I have removed the nearside floor trim panel just by the rear passenger door and exposed a wiring loom underneath so next step will be to try and associate the cable colours with the multipin connector attached to the light clusters. No doubt there is another loom on the other side of the car so will have to remove that trim panel too. I just hope the colours do not change between exposed loom and lighting cluster. Having said that if the colours do not match then it will be a pin to lightly puncture the insulation and my multimeter to trace what feeds which light. If other folk on the forum had not said how fragile the boot side panels were (prone to split and crack when trying to remove) I would have had a go at removing them 1st.

Being the wife’s car, the modifications will have to be hidden and interior kept intact :wub: ................or I will be for the high jump.
The side panels come off OK. It is the panel that runs across the back that is the problem, there are plastic clips that slot onto the panel and then push into the bodywork and when that panel is prised away instead of the plastic clips popping out of the bodywork the slots on the panel can break off. Good news is that the panel does go back on OK with no rattles even if a couple of the clips are missing. On my last i10 I had a mobile tow bar fitter come out and wire up the electrics and the wiring was taken off the nearside and the off side indicator run across. The tow bar is a Witter HY47 and very easy to fit with no cutting of the bumper required the bolt holes are slightly elongated to allow a bit of final adjustment to square it all off, avoid fouling the exhaust bracket and rubbing up against the bumper. The instructions do say do the wiring first though as access is limited when crossbar is in position. I've just had a look http://service.hyundai-motor.com/ and the wiring diagrams are available under ETM. The fitter did say that the colour coding is non standard, he used a little gizmo that detected live wires with a Bleep and light which is probably quicker and easier than using circuit diagrams. A Bypass relay is not required on the i10. This time I have gone for a double socket which entailed having a split charge relay fitted and fused lead run down the side of the car from the battery, so I had the whole lot done at the premises of a professional fitter. As you are aware a permanent protector plate can not be fitted behind the ball as it would obscure the number plate, Witter do sell a detachable plate which from personal experience is cheaper than a new number plate :grin:

http://www.pfjones.co.uk/i10-2008-flange-tow-bar.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (shedloads @ May 9 2010, 09:00 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321126
The side panels come off OK. It is the panel that runs across the back that is the problem, there are plastic clips that slot onto the panel and then push into the bodywork and when that panel is prised away instead of the plastic clips popping out of the bodywork the slots on the panel can break off. Good news is that the panel does go back on OK with no rattles even if a couple of the clips are missing. On my last i10 I had a mobile tow bar fitter come out and wire up the electrics and the wiring was taken off the nearside and the off side indicator run across. The tow bar is a Witter HY47 and very easy to fit with no cutting of the bumper required the bolt holes are slightly elongated to allow a bit of final adjustment to square it all off, avoid fouling the exhaust bracket and rubbing up against the bumper. The instructions do say do the wiring first though as access is limited when crossbar is in position. SNIP
Thanks for the note re the side panels. I take it you mean there are some hidden plastic clips on the rear panel? There are three mushroom headed ones on the vertical face that are not too hard to remove but with them out of the way the top of the panel was stuck solid. I removed the bottom part of the rear hatch rubber seal thinking that was perhaps holding it down or else with it pulled out of the way, I could get at whatever was holding that panel in place but having gained access the panel remained firmly attached.

We too opted for the Witter HY47 bracket and other than a couple of areas found it fitted like a glove. The 1st concern was bending the bottom of the bumper down to feed the bar behind, although if you feed the bar in 1st from the exhaust silencer then work your way towards the nearside all goes well. The 2nd problem was not checking out the threaded holes on the towbar before fitted in position. Ours were blocked with paint and weld splatter so had to run a M12 tap down the holes while in situ. It would have been a lot easier if I had checked them with the bar sitting on the ground. I found it was a two person job to get the bracket up behind the panel although having done it once and know how much to pull and push, I dare say I could do it on my own. It also meant the wife would get her hands dirty too. Oh I forgot to say, you do not have to jack the car up and can easily work underneath when fitting. I admit I did jack the offside and remove the rear wheel and back panel in the wheel arch, but that was just to give me easy access for running the M12 tap down the threaded hole in the bar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (Mr Pogle @ May 9 2010, 09:02 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=321239
:eek:fftopic: what are you guys towing with your i10's, and how do you find it stability wise?

In my case our small 5' x 3' camping trailer or our motorbike trailer and bike. Not managed to test it out yet because not been able to work on the electrical wiring due to other commitments but do not expect any trouble.
 
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