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I am about to put in a full sound system in my 2017 Elantra SE and was wondering if the hole for the subwoofer in the rear deck is still there under the trim even in the models that didn't come with one? Like can I just get the trim for the rear deck with the cut out for the subwoofer and put an aftermarket one in?
 

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I am about to put in a full sound system in my 2017 Elantra SE and was wondering if the hole for the subwoofer in the rear deck is still there under the trim even in the models that didn't come with one? Like can I just get the trim for the rear deck with the cut out for the subwoofer and put an aftermarket one in?
Yes, the opening and screw holes are there. I have the SE tech package no premium audio
 

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I am about to put in a full sound system in my 2017 Elantra SE and was wondering if the hole for the subwoofer in the rear deck is still there under the trim even in the models that didn't come with one? Like can I just get the trim for the rear deck with the cut out for the subwoofer and put an aftermarket one in?
I am thinking of adding a new sound system in my 2017 Elantra Sport too, the stock one is abysmal.

Are you getting a new head unit?

Should an AMP, new speakers, and sub be enough? (While keeping the stock head unit)
 

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I was looking at doing this, too. I’m only really looking at doing a crossover, though. I like the stock head unit interface and don’t really want to change that out.

Anyway, that being said, the hole looks pretty small. I think you’d only be able to fit an 8” sub in there, but I’m no stereo expert.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, the opening and screw holes are there. I have the SE tech package no premium audio
Awesome Thanks!

I am thinking of adding a new sound system in my 2017 Elantra Sport too, the stock one is abysmal.

Are you getting a new head unit?

Should an AMP, new speakers, and sub be enough? (While keeping the stock head unit)
Yeah Im putting in a Pioneer AVH-X3600BHS. Yes that would make a big difference however you will have to tap into some of the wires of the stock head unit.
 

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I was looking at doing this, too. I’m only really looking at doing a crossover, though. I like the stock head unit interface and don’t really want to change that out.

Anyway, that being said, the hole looks pretty small. I think you’d only be able to fit an 8” sub in there, but I’m no stereo expert.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I think I heard of some people putting a 10" in it.
 

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Infinity sound system is using a Hyundai part # 96380-F2110 8" 2 ohm dual voice coil speaker back there. Its not a standard mount like a flat surface mounted with four screws. But has a tab that fits into a slot on the right side, pull up with a screw on the left side.

Even if you search for replacement speakers at Crutchfield, tell you, you have to modify that hole. Also difficult to find dual voice coil speakers in the 2 ohm range.

Depending on your sheet metal skills, even if you have them a darn tight spot to work in, speaker is way too close to the rear window, better off to stick with an OEM speaker.

Same with door speakers, have to be small enough to fit into those weatherproof housings. For years, audio sound systems used standard components, but this is sure becoming history.

 

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Speaker in a typical car radio is like a teeter totter connected to a bridge output, cannot be grounded, one side swings up toward 12V while the other side to ground. Produces a peak voltage of 12.6V one way for a positive alternation, than just the opposite for the other.

Or in effect, a peak to peak voltage of 25.2 volts, but the actual rms voltage for power rating is about 9 volts. Since P + E^2/R, the output power to the speaker is the resistance of the voice coil, typical values are 12, 8, 4, 3.2, 2, or even 1 ohm.

With a 12 ohm speaker maximum power is only 6 watts, got stuck with one of these, if I installed 4 ohm speakers for 20 watts per channel, that radio would smoke, had to install external amps. 2 ohm speaker is good for 40 watts. Advantaged of external amps, that is where the power is dissipated, with the amp in the radio, more like a CD toaster than a player.

Only way to learn the resistance of your speakers is to measure them with an ohmmeter. When running power to them both ground and 12 volts have to come from the rear of your radio or else you will get ground loops, noise. Another problem is using your radio on off switch to switch on the aux amps, may have to add a buffer to it.

For more power, need an amp with a converter, no longer 12 volts, ups the Vcc in the 24-48 volt range. But then there are the speakers themselves, stupid rating is the maximum power they can take before they start smoking. In testing a lot of 6" speakers with a distortion analyzer, some were only good up to 6 watts before clipping occurred, best I found was in the 12 volt range.

Two other key parameters of a speaker is the type of material the cone is made of, ha, old audiophiles preferred paper, plastic was too hard on their ears. Other is the size of that ring magnet, the larger the better, but too large it won't fit.

Yet another is the strength of your input signal, with lawsuits against portable audio devices feeding 32 ohm ear buds, really cut down on the volume. MP3's are much lower than broadcast. May talk about 90 db dynamic range, but with a 70 db ambient, cuts this down to 20.

Anyway, have fun.
 
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