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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am new to this board. Anyways, my mother owns a 2006 Hyundai Sonota lx. I am supposed to be replacing her rear brake pads and rotors tomorrow morning. I have been trying to find a walkthrough for this. I searched google and found almost no information. I came here and search the board and found some stuff I needed to know, but still not a full walkthrough. Does anyone know where I can find one?

Also, the only thing that has me worried is the screw that holds the rotor on. I have seen a ton of people had problems getting this off without stripping it. Does anyone know if this screw is on the rear rotors of this car? Any advice for getting it off? I really don't want to tell my mom she needs to spend another $30 on an impact driver or something.

Lastly, I have a 2006 mazda 3 i have done rear brakes on. It turned into a pain because on that car in order to compress the rear piston you needed a special tool which rotates and pushed the piston in at the same time. Does the Sonata have the same type on piston. I just want to know if i need to rent the Master Disk brake kit from the local AA store. Can anyone list the tools I will need for this job?

Thanks!
 

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Just replace them straight up.. no special tools required.

Use a quality #3 phillips driver on the screw,, set the blade into the slot, and rap the handle a few times to help knock the screw thread loose while mild turn on driver.

If the screws strip, use a drill bit and drill the head off the screw. A 1/4" bit will do the trick, remove rotor, and you have a couple chioce what to do...

1- just leave the stud remnant there

2- use a pair of grips and try to remove remnant

3- grind stud remnant flush with flange.
 

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Also. PB Blaster sprayed on the screws and left overnight helps to loosen rusted/corroded screws/bolts. I leave the servicing of my cars to those who know what they're doing but I've seen many a stubborn screw change its tune with PB Blaster.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the help!

This is what ended up happening. I tried to get the screw out on one side with a screwdriver. I didn't get anywhere and was stripping it. I grabbed a drill and put the screwdriver attachment in and in popped right out, no problem at all. I tried the same thing with the other one and the drill stripped it in about a second. I pushed the button in too far and it spun to fast to grip. So, I just ended up drillling the head off the screw. I got the rotor off, then used plier to get the rest of the screw out with no problem. I didn't put another screw in as it's a useless part anyways.

So, everything is done now, but I am having one problem. The drivers side pads seem to be rubbing on the rotor a little when I am driving with the brakes off. This is the side I got the screw off and put back in. I did my mazda 3 a while back and the same thing happened. It went away about 1-2 weeks later. I think the pads just need to wear in a little. Just in case, i took the whole thing apart and put it back together and the noise is still there. I had a hard time getting the pads into the clips on that side. It was almost like the pads were a little too big for the clips. I had to put them in a little, then slide them on the rotor. I tapped them with a hammer so they were in enough to slide the other part of the caliper over them. I am wondering if they are having a hard time adjusting in the clip? Has anyone else had this problem?

I talked to the guy at the auto part store and he said it might be a frozen caliper, but i don't think so. When I took it apart the caliper was out, I used a C-clamp to push it in. I put it together and drove until i heard the rubbing. I took it apart again and the piston was out again and I pushed it in again. It doesn't appear to be frozen. Like I said, I think it just needs to wear in, but I want to see if this is normal?
 

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I haven't done the Sonata brakes - but on most cars, the calipers ride back and forth on a couple of pins which must be squeaky clean and lubricated with high temp silicone grease when the calipers are reinstalled. Also, the calipers usually have rubber/neoprene bushings inside which should replaced and lubricated (or at least lubricated) so that the calipers slide freely back and forth on the caliper pins.

In any case, break-in, if any, is only momentary
 

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Did you GREASE the guide pins, what ever they call them? Should be a bolt with a rubber boot.

2nd, did you COMPRESS the piston all the way down? I just used a BIG c-clamp worked great when I did the front.

Did you BLEED your brakes? If you didn't you should. I did a brake job on front, new pads and rotors, but STILL bled all 4 wheels, had some air in the rear line. I've read in other forums where they apply a little grease to the caliper mount, I mean where the PAD sits on(clip area) so they don't bind and drag.

LASTLY, did you pump the brakes after you did your brake job? Also, when I did mine I made sure I did some hard stops, I mean doing 30-40 and slamming on the brakes a few times to seat the pads correctly.

QUOTE (Zerrotolerance @ Jun 14 2010, 03:33 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=332950
Thanks for the help!

This is what ended up happening. I tried to get the screw out on one side with a screwdriver. I didn't get anywhere and was stripping it. I grabbed a drill and put the screwdriver attachment in and in popped right out, no problem at all. I tried the same thing with the other one and the drill stripped it in about a second. I pushed the button in too far and it spun to fast to grip. So, I just ended up drillling the head off the screw. I got the rotor off, then used plier to get the rest of the screw out with no problem. I didn't put another screw in as it's a useless part anyways.

So, everything is done now, but I am having one problem. The drivers side pads seem to be rubbing on the rotor a little when I am driving with the brakes off. This is the side I got the screw off and put back in. I did my mazda 3 a while back and the same thing happened. It went away about 1-2 weeks later. I think the pads just need to wear in a little. Just in case, i took the whole thing apart and put it back together and the noise is still there. I had a hard time getting the pads into the clips on that side. It was almost like the pads were a little too big for the clips. I had to put them in a little, then slide them on the rotor. I tapped them with a hammer so they were in enough to slide the other part of the caliper over them. I am wondering if they are having a hard time adjusting in the clip? Has anyone else had this problem?

I talked to the guy at the auto part store and he said it might be a frozen caliper, but i don't think so. When I took it apart the caliper was out, I used a C-clamp to push it in. I put it together and drove until i heard the rubbing. I took it apart again and the piston was out again and I pushed it in again. It doesn't appear to be frozen. Like I said, I think it just needs to wear in, but I want to see if this is normal?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
To answer a few questions...

Yes, I pumped the brakes after installation. I also did a few hard stops to get them seated. I greased the rear of the brake pad and the clips that they slide into. I didn't grease the piston, though I suppose I should have. I know the bolts you are talking about with the rubber, but I didn't grease them either, they seem to be working fine. I am wondering if I tightened the bolts to much though. I used a wrench with a long pipe on it to get extra leverage, but I might have pulled them too much?

I guess I should have mentioned it seems to be the outside pad rubbing on the rotor and not the inside. It could be both though. The noise seems to have faded a little on the ride home, so i will give it a week. If it still makes the noise I will take it apart again and grease those parts. It's only a 45 minute job anyways. I did the other side the same way and don't seem to be having a problem there. It's pretty hard to screw up a brake job, so I might just need to grease some parts.

The last thing is I didn't bleed the lines. I've never done that before, so don't really know what I'm doing. I would imagine there fine though. The brakes themselves work great and I never replaced the caliper, so there should be little to no air in the lines. I rested the caliper on the control arm?? I think? Anyways, I made sure the brake lines weren't supporting it. Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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Don't bleed the lines if you've never done it before. It's easy to get air in there. A much easier way is get a turkey baster and suck out the old fluid from the reservoir and replace with new every 5k or so. It keeps the fluid looking like new.
 

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Bleeding the brakes is not hard. Search youtube for videos. I did it by MYSELF the first time. Simple:

Toilet plunger and a wrench of correct size to loosen bleeder valve, safety goggles and i had a small fuel hose over the brake bleeder nipple going into a bottle.


Step 1. Shove plunger handle in between seat and brake pedal, PUSH seat all the way forward this applies pressure to the brake pedal.

Step 2. Go to caliper and with wrench open bleed valve fluid will spray out, close after 1-2 seconds.

Step 3. Return to seat, push seat back, and then forward to apply pressure to brake pedal. Repeat bleed procedure.

Watch this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hf1iPbeg778

It is EXTREMELY important to grease those guide pins! The front guide pins one of them the grease was almost completely dry, how can the calipers properly do their job if these bolts aren't lubricated properly? I just used those small .99 cent packets at the auto parts store, one packet was sufficient per axle.

Simply using a turkey bayster to remove fluid from the master cylinder reservoir does NOT bleed the brakes. Even if your system has not been opened, you can still have air in it I had air in my left rear brake line, I opened it up and it shot out I think there was a small hiss/burp noise too. Greasing the caliper bolts is easy, pull the wheel off, take your two wrenches and loosen the bolts, GRAP the rubber boot and pull the caliper bolt out. Squeeze grease and rub it on it, push it back in and tighten it. No need to take everything off.

I am not a mechanic, this is not a how to, this is a guide on what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, my mother took it out for a ride a little while ago. She said the only noise she heard was a noise it's been making for a long time. So, I guess it wasn't the brakes. I'm guessing it's the wheel bearings or maybe the tie rod. It's something making a rubbing and humming noise. It sounds like when my CV axle went, but there's no CV in the back.....so....?????
 

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Discussion Starter #13
No, not tires. They were balanced not too long ago and have a lot of tread. It's definetely something mechanically wrong. I got a friend that works at a shop that does this type of work. I am going to bring it to him this week. He changed some struts/shocks I bought online and did a FEA for $170. Can't beat them prices without doing it yourself. Got some nice Koni FSDs on my mazda 3 now. Not sure if you can get them for Hyundai's or not, but it's the way to go if you can. It's a beautiful ride.

Thanks for the help everyone. Next time I need advice for working on her car I'll be coming here!
 

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Lubricated my rear brakes this spring and found the pads wouldn't go back in. For some reason the pads are too big for the calipers and don't slide in the clips. Leads to premature rear pad wear. Filing the paint off the ends lets them slide. Guess the specs didn't allow for paint thickness. Front pads were OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had to do the same thing on one side. They would not slide in even when lubed. I took a file and brushed a little off each end. It was still a little tough getting them in, but much easier than before. I also brushed out the clips themselves with a wire brush to get rid of brake dust buildup. What brand pads did you use. I used advanced auto Gold brand.
 

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QUOTE (Zerrotolerance @ Jun 15 2010, 02:01 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=333205
I had to do the same thing on one side. They would not slide in even when lubed. I took a file and brushed a little off each end. It was still a little tough getting them in, but much easier than before. I also brushed out the clips themselves with a wire brush to get rid of brake dust buildup. What brand pads did you use. I used advanced auto Gold brand.
Everything sounds so similar to my experience last week when I did the rear brakes on my daughters 2008 Elantra. Caliper came off easy but the pads seemed like they were stuck in the clips, I had to tap them out and then also tap them back in. I assume when everyone is talking about the slide pins that these are the 2 bolts that you remove to remove the caliper if so then I’ll have to grease these.

Regarding the calipers piston, can someone elaborate a bit more on how to grease this correctly?
 

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here's a tip to save someone the hours of anguish I went through.

There a little rubber grommet on the disc. Remove it. This allows access to the parking brake adjustment wheel. The parking brake is like a drum brake. It uses the inner part of the disc as the drum. In my case the shoes had worn into the old disc and got caught. It was a bi#$$% to get out. The other side, I adjusted the shoe wheel to make it easier to get the rotor off.
 
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