Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,731 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Was getting my 30K oil change. The dealer noticed that my rear brake pads were down to 1mm. Thinking they were just trying to get a break job out of the oil change I checked the brakes at home. Glad I had picked up some front/rear pads some 5 months ago. Rears were almost hitting the rotors at just 29,400.
I usually never replace the rears up to 50-60K !

Another 3K and they would be grinding my rotors... lucky catch.

Hyundai must have the rear pads working harder then the front. The fronts have 5mm on them.
I might be pulling them off today. It's warm and don't want to do this in Feb.

Took me just some 40 min. to do both rear pads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,163 Posts
Premature wear on rear pads is often a symptom of sticking caliper slides. Without preventive maintenance, it's common. We've had threads and threads on that here.

When you were in there, I hope you ground off any rust and relubricated. That service is recommended yearly if you get any road crud (winter road salt or mag chloride from dirt road dust prevention).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
Calipers aint stuck... pads stuck in mounting bracket to build up of rust under the fit kit shim, squeezing on pads and locking them in palce..

Need to take all apart, remove rust from under the fit kit shims,knock rust off pad ears and lube upon re-assembly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Phist

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,163 Posts
QUOTE (sbr711 @ Oct 25 2010, 10:47 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=366141
Calipers aint stuck... pads stuck in mounting bracket to build up of rust under the fit kit shim, squeezing on pads and locking them in palce..

Need to take all apart, remove rust from under the fit kit shims,knock rust off pad ears and lube upon re-assembly.
Yeah, pull and clean those TOO.

From the latest Hyundai TSB (it's not the first) dealing with this known problem:


1. When performing a brake service,
always remove, clean, and reapply
grease to the slide pins.

2. When performing a brake service,
always clean and re-apply grease
to the brake pad backing plates
and ears (where contact is made
with the caliper).

3. If corrosion is found on the brake
caliper, remove the pad retainer
and clean the contact surface of
the caliper carrier with a wire
brush. Apply grease to the carrier
surface before re-installing the pad
retainer. Apply grease to the pad
retainer surface as well.

We don't know what part of the country you're from, but especially if it's somewhere in the Rust Belt, are you recommending that clean and lube procedure on an annual basis? Insufficient clearance seems to have been the problem ever since the CM models hit the line. Even a small bit of corrosion and the rears are at risk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
120 Posts
I had the same problem with my rear brakes 2008 limited. I am in Canada and it is a must to have the brakes sliders cleaned and lubed. I now do it two times a year, but I do it myself. I first started hearing a high pitched sound from outside my car, I stopped and checked and I couldn't even touch my alum rims because they were too hot.

I was told by a hyundai mechanic that there is very little clearance from the pads to the sliders so any rust or anything can cause them to jam in the sliders and then the pads will not release off the rotor and drag.

What I did was file down the part of the brake pad that is in contact with the sliders. not much (I am not telling you to do the same) This creates a little more clearance for the pad to slide easier. I did this on my Mazda after going through 2 sets of pads in less than 10,000 kms and I have never had a problem since then. Also make sure you take off the clips from the caliper and clean the rust behind them too because the rust can push the slider closer to the pad and cause jamming too.

Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,731 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
2008 Vericruz, had back pads go pretty fast. I'm checking on the replacements I put in next week.
I did replace the front rotors with drilled/slots. The originals were warped at 3K and the dealer ground them down and at 6K they were doing it again.
So new rotors.. not sure if I replaced the pads.. doubt if with 6K on them.
Now at 35K both inside rotors are uneven, not flat. Outsides are fine ! !
I may look at smoothing these rotors, not sure if they can be.
What's with the brakes on these ? My Santa Fe never had these problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
Are they single piston calipers ? I find dual piston seem to wear things a little more evenly.

My Sant Fe with hiway driving went 122k kilometers on the OEM fron pads; never gone that far with the over 20 cars I have owned.

The pad holders are stainless steel so lubing is probably not going to do much IMO. The tip about filing the ears down a little for more clearance; makes the most sense. I started doing that recently on the three Hyundai we have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
947 Posts
Any rear-disk brake equipped vehicle I've owned was the same way. They're a royal PITA in rust belt climates because they catch all the road grime being in the back and they don't *move* quite as much as the fronts.

I've got to disassemble, clean, re-lube and reinstall the rears on our 2008 Honda Odyssey on a yearly basis too. It's gettin' real old. Man I miss the days when rear drums were all you had. They performed fine for me!

Joel
 

·
SENIOR MODERATOR
Joined
·
9,284 Posts
No road salt used here and never had an issue with it on my '04 over 146,000 miles. Mom's '02 RX300 had a problem with the parking brake mechanism seizing up ($900 to put right) but other than that, she's had no brake-related issues. Should I be too concerned about it with my '10?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,883 Posts
QUOTE (santa06 @ May 6 2011, 07:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=441442
The pad holders are stainless steel so lubing is probably not going to do much IMO. The tip about filing the ears down a little for more clearance; makes the most sense.
The manufacturer recommends greasing the holders, not filing down the ears to make everything fit looser. Why would you second-guess this advice when it works so well? I've been greasing my brakes every year, and after 65,000 city kilometers they are quiet and vibration-free and wearing evenly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,978 Posts
Using the special lube for the pins makes sense ; the high wash on the pads and holders I don't think leaves much of anything there for long.

I've owned over two dozen cars and completed brake jobs on cars since 1979 ; when I bought my first car. The Hyundai holders are tighter than most other cars I've worked on.

I don't feel like taking them apart twice a year ; taking a few thou off with a file isn't a big deal. In some cases its just taking the rust off to bare metal again before putting them back in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
QUOTE (Don67 @ May 7 2011, 03:09 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=441646
The manufacturer recommends greasing the holders, not filing down the ears to make everything fit looser. Why would you second-guess this advice when it works so well? I've been greasing my brakes every year, and after 65,000 city kilometers they are quiet and vibration-free and wearing evenly.
Don I also filed down the ends of the pads a bit (Mostly the burrs from stamp press manufacturer) as the pad was sticking in the holder with everything clean and lubed. I did that 2 years ago and have not looked at them since. I do take the pressure washer when washing my vehicle and really wash the caliper good from all angles. And I am in a salt belt in BC.

Been working on brakes since 1965 on all types of vehicles and just the last few years on the import vehicles that this seems to be a problem. North American vehicles have quite a bit of end play (0.010 to 0.030) on the pad to caliper which allows the dirt and rust to escape. (and no stainless steel slide shim)

Glen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,883 Posts
QUOTE (santa06 @ May 7 2011, 11:12 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=441957
I've owned over two dozen cars and completed brake jobs on cars since 1979 ; when I bought my first car. The Hyundai holders are tighter than most other cars I've worked on.

I don't feel like taking them apart twice a year ; taking a few thou off with a file isn't a big deal. In some cases its just taking the rust off to bare metal again before putting them back in.
QUOTE (dunmovin @ May 7 2011, 11:48 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=441972
Don I also filed down the ends of the pads a bit (Mostly the burrs from stamp press manufacturer) as the pad was sticking in the holder with everything clean and lubed. I did that 2 years ago and have not looked at them since. I do take the pressure washer when washing my vehicle and really wash the caliper good from all angles. And I am in a salt belt in BC.

Been working on brakes since 1965 on all types of vehicles and just the last few years on the import vehicles that this seems to be a problem. North American vehicles have quite a bit of end play (0.010 to 0.030) on the pad to caliper which allows the dirt and rust to escape. (and no stainless steel slide shim)

Fair enough. Sounds like manufacturing consistency is an issue here; my pads seem to fit better than yours do. As for the annual hassle, I actually like playing with grease once in awhile. :57:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Hyundai is not the only car with this problem. I've owned other American and foreign cars and trucks and have never worn out the back brakes until I bought my last car that was a Subaru Forester. I had to do the back brakes at 29000 miles and after reading this post, now I know why. This was very informative post for me, now all I have go do is remember to do this every April or May, don't think I can do it twice a year, just getting too old.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
I thought I posted a few pics of my 2009 Santa Fe. I had this same issue with the pads sticking in the caliper...
See attached pics...and rust....this was after 1.5years, approx 42,000km and two winters

BTW, my caliper slider pins were fine. I also lightly filed the pad ears to add a touch more clearance...
 

Attachments

1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top