Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi. Hoping for someone that’s fixed the problem or can point in right direction
Back story.
Santa Fe 2.2 drives fine till temp gets up to half then revs drop and can take 30 seconds of gentle acceleration to get up to high enough revs to set off.
Changed throttle body. Changed maf, changed map, changed egr,
Only odb I can find that looks strange is at idle intake pressure is 75 and doesn’t move and barometric pressure is at 25 and doesn’t change.
When I eventually get it to throw a Eml light on it comes up with barometric to intake pressure is too high.
Ran out of things to change now. Help. Please
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Hi Carstock, sorry to hear about this problem you are having. I'm sure with the collective brainpower of the forum a solution should be found.

1) Does this lack of ability to rev when the engine is warm happen when the vehicle is in gear as well as in neutral?
2) Double check all vaccum lines and connectors
3) Have you checked the PCV system? How much blowby is your engine making when cold? And when hot? ---> check this by opening your oil filler cap to see what the rate of crankcase gasses escaping look like. Do you have any oil leaks around the car or engine bay?
4) When you replaced the EGR, did you do a clean only, or an new EGR install? The EGR system is the most likely culprit for the following reason. The EGR should only activate when the car is warm and NOT in idle or at NOT at full throttle. If however the EGR is faulty, it could be allowing disproportionate exhaust gasses into the intake at IDLE, causing this non responsiveness. EGR should only work when car is up to operating temps as well. When the car is shut down, disconnect the EGR electrical solenoid (which will prevent any EGR interference) and see if you can replicate this problem. If the problem goes away then you know that your EGR is the cause.

Let us know. All the best.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,084 Posts
Only odb I can find that looks strange is at idle intake pressure is 75 and doesn’t move and barometric pressure is at 25 and doesn’t change.
What units are you measuring the pressures in? Inches of mercury ("Hg), I assume?
If that's the case 25"Hg doesn't sound like a plausible value to me. The number is too low, unless your car is parked on top of Ben Nevis. 75"Hg isn't a plausible value for an engine at idle either. But that number is too high.

On a CRDi engine the intake is open to the atmosphere (there is no throttle valve). So the barometric and boost (intake) pressure should both show the same value when the engine is at idle. The barometric pressure at sea level should be approx 29~30"Hg


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
It's not overheating is it? Radiator blocked? I have come across this senario. The engine won't rev until it cools down a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
What units are you measuring the pressures in? Inches of mercury ("Hg), I assume?
If that's the case 25"Hg doesn't sound like a plausible value to me. The number is too low, unless your car is parked on top of Ben Nevis. 75"Hg isn't a plausible value for an engine at idle either. But that number is too high.

On a CRDi engine the intake is open to the atmosphere (there is no throttle valve). So the barometric and boost (intake) pressure should both show the same value when the engine is at idle. The barometric pressure at sea level should be approx 29~30"Hg


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
Knew it wasn’t correct. I’m pulling my hair out. Tried different map and maf getting similar readings. Any idea what would cause it to be out so much?

So far I’ve put on, egr, throttle body, map and maf, new intake cooler, temp sensor.

Turbo solenoid opens and closes when remove suction pipe.

Runs perfect until temp reaches half way point then no power. Can tickle throttle to get enough to get going again but as soon as stand still nothing again.
Tia
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
It's not overheating is it? Radiator blocked? I have come across this senario. The engine won't rev until it cools down a bit.
Only gets upto just below half way and then issue kicks in. Oddballs says 250 degrees F
Can’t change it to Celsius.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,084 Posts
Oddballs says 250 degrees F
Can’t change it to Celsius.
A quick google tells me that 250'F is 121'C. The engine shouldn't normally run that hot. But what is odd is the gauge is below half way, which is normal. It sounds to me like the two sensors (the one that controls the gauge, and the one that reports to the engine ECU) are sending conflicting information. So not only is the boost pressure sensor output wrong. It seems the ECU coolant temperature is wrong too. It's very odd to have problems with so many different sensors all at the same time.

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top