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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have decided we want a '14 SFS 2.0T FWD with Tech, in Moonstone Silver. I'm out of town this weekend but would like to get it done next week.

Using Hyundai's inventory search tool, I found a total of 8 exact matches within 30 miles of me (across 6 different dealerships). The MSRP for this model is $35,655, though most dealers have accessories installed that are another $300-500. Truecar shows market price as $33,349 based on the $35,655 MSRP.

Seeing that there are 6 dealerships that have this configuration, I'm thinking I could land a pretty good deal by having the dealers compete with each other.

What do you recommend as the next step? I'd like to do this over email (possibly phone). Should I email each dealer and simply ask for their best price? Should I tell them I am contacting other dealers as well? Is it better to email off their dealership site, or off the official Hyundai "request a quote" tool?

I appreciate any advice.
 

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As I used to work at a dealer, here's a few tips.

- Dealers/Sales Reps have targets like any sales position. Biggest tip - wait until the end of the month to buy a vehicle, but not the last two days (incase they have already hit their targets). Do it from the 26-27th, and get delivery of it on the 28th-29th.If you can, not only wait until the end of the month, but the end of a quarter is better... and the end of the year is best!
If they are 2-3 cars away from hitting the target, we used to almost give a car away at cost to get the bonuses handed down from H/O, as we might lose $2k or so on the car, but get a $10k bonus.

- Tip #2, never buy on the first visit. Go to the dealer on the "20th", then do a return visit for another test drive on the "26th" or so... they usually call you with a better offer in the days between, or they were "able to get more for your trade"...

- Tip #3, don't say you're shopping for the same car between dealers - always compare the possible Santa Fe purchase with other manufacturers - like Nissan Murano, or Ford Escape, or Toyota Venza....

- if you have a trade in, never take the first offer. Don't be "pissed" or "offended" at the first offer - just state you've been offered $500-1000 more at other dealers.

- When they give you "x" per month price, like "$307/month" as their best deal - you can usually knock off another $5/m or so...

On average, a $20/m discount in payment equals about $1000 off the car, so being able to knock off that last $250 ($5/m) to make the deal is no big deal at the final minutes of a deal.

Keep in mind, i've heard this from several people - that non-domestic manufacturers don't have the "wiggle room" that domestic car dealers have. Dodge/GM/Ford might be able to come down from the original sticker further then Hyundai/Kia/Toyota... I've heard they price aggressively, but then include a bunch of features you can't get in other comparible models without having to pay extra.. .that's their added value.

Have fun!
 

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Fourth item listed on this forum is "Sticky FAQ: Looking to Buy...?"
Fourth link down in FAQ is "Price Negotiation" thread.
Post #39 on Page 4 of thread has everything you need.
Good luck.

P.S. Find out which, if any, buying programs the dealer of your choice participates in. If PenFed, you'll get killer financing. If Costco, you'll get great parts and service discounts. If TrueCar, you'll get refundable deductibles if you have to make an insurance claim. Also, register for BoostUp.com for down payment program where up to $500 you contribute will be matched dollar for dollar by Hyundai.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Fourth item listed on this forum is "Sticky FAQ: Looking to Buy...?"
Fourth link down in FAQ is "Price Negotiation" thread.
Post #39 on Page 4 of thread has everything you need.
Good luck.

P.S. Find out which, if any, buying programs the dealer of your choice participates in. If PenFed, you'll get killer financing. If Costco, you'll get great parts and service discounts. If TrueCar, you'll get refundable deductibles if you have to make an insurance claim. Also, register for BoostUp.com for down payment program where up to $500 you contribute will be matched dollar for dollar by Hyundai.
Ok thanks for that. Went through the whole process and it appears the price via Circle is $32,942 (a few hundred below Truecar). I think I'd be fine with that, as long as the dealer doesn't add in a doc fee.

Boostup.com looks intriguing. Unfortunately it says "Account must be open for 30 days prior to purchase" and "Current Hyundai offer ends on 01/02/2014".
 

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OK, couple things. First, buying programs (such as TrueCar) establish price CEILINGS, not floors. You are more than welcome to negotiate a lower price than the buying program specifies. In fact, most buying programs hint at this flexibility in their disclaimers that pricing ONLY applies to actual dealer inventory, specific option mix, and excludes dealer "add-ons" such as paint protectant, etc.

The point is: DON'T quote TrueCar "pricing": it means NOTHING! As I said, find out which specific buying program(s) your (future) dealer supports, NOT FOR THEIR PRICES (which you will certainly beat with Circle), but for their EXTRAS (low financing, parts discounts, insurance rebates, etc.) which truly add value to the deal. Register for ALL buying programs for which you qualify and/or join ones for which you lack qualifications. Then, use the programs to generate "certificates" for a model similar, but NOT exactly like the one you really want. I generally produce a bunch of base model "quotes" so you demonstrate your eligibility, but don't tie yourself down to a price (since you're going to want and DEMAND an even lower one!) Remember to use any dealer's non-participation in a specific buying program AGAINST them. "Hey, I can get financing $400 cheaper through a PenFed dealer. What are you going to do about it?" OR "Hey, the guy across town is a Costco dealer; he's giving me 15% off all parts, accessories, and service as well as a $200 voucher up front! What are you going to do for me?" Get it? The secondary point is: DON'T "settle" for Circle pricing! Use it as your baseline and then put several dealerships into competition for your business on the basis of who beats the Circle price. Get it?

As far as BoostUp, it costs you NOTHING to open an account - DO SO! Then put the onus on the dealer to "make up" your "loss" if they want you to buy the car before the BoostUp qualification date. Get it?

Good luck; you're well on the way to getting a great deal on a nice vehicle.
 

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OK, couple things. First, buying programs (such as TrueCar) establish price CEILINGS, not floors. You are more than welcome to negotiate a lower price than the buying program specifies. In fact, most buying programs hint at this flexibility in their disclaimers that pricing ONLY applies to actual dealer inventory, specific option mix, and excludes dealer "add-ons" such as paint protectant, etc.

The point is: DON'T quote TrueCar "pricing": it means NOTHING! As I said, find out which specific buying program(s) your (future) dealer supports, NOT FOR THEIR PRICES (which you will certainly beat with Circle), but for their EXTRAS (low financing, parts discounts, insurance rebates, etc.) which truly add value to the deal. Register for ALL buying programs for which you qualify and/or join ones for which you lack qualifications. Then, use the programs to generate "certificates" for a model similar, but NOT exactly like the one you really want. I generally produce a bunch of base model "quotes" so you demonstrate your eligibility, but don't tie yourself down to a price (since you're going to want and DEMAND an even lower one!) Remember to use any dealer's non-participation in a specific buying program AGAINST them. "Hey, I can get financing $400 cheaper through a PenFed dealer. What are you going to do about it?" OR "Hey, the guy across town is a Costco dealer; he's giving me 15% off all parts, accessories, and service as well as a $200 voucher up front! What are you going to do for me?" Get it? The secondary point is: DON'T "settle" for Circle pricing! Use it as your baseline and then put several dealerships into competition for your business on the basis of who beats the Circle price. Get it?

As far as BoostUp, it costs you NOTHING to open an account - DO SO! Then put the onus on the dealer to "make up" your "loss" if they want you to buy the car before the BoostUp qualification date. Get it?

Good luck; you're well on the way to getting a great deal on a nice vehicle.
Thank you for this post. All I ever hear is people saying "I got the best price because they matched Circle pricing". I just laugh and shake my head when I hear that. You are still leaving a considerable amount of $$ on the table if you settle for Circle pricing.
 

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Don't settle for monthly pricing. Settle for out the door cost to you first, and then find out what the monthly pricing is.
 
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