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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
To all who own a Santa Fe, tomorrow or later today, go out, open your rear hatch and try to lower your spare tire... If you can't (and a lot of you won't be able too, due to the long bolt in the mechanism rusting solid to the nut) you will want to fix this right away. You can try some PB Blaster on the bolt and nut at the top of the hook and if that doesn't do it, take the tire iron and turn until u either break it loose or break the bolt in half. Now, how to fix it... cheap! Go to the nearest Tractor Supply store (or equivalent) and buy a 10" long 1/2" CARRIAGE BOLT and (2) 7/16" or 1/2" washers. Should cost under $2 by weight... take the old bolt parts out, cut (with a hack saw) the amount of old bolt sticking out of the hook piece "nut" that faced up, off. Now for the fun part, you have to drill out the old bolt from the nut (unless you want to pay over $80.00 for a new part). Start with a 3/16" drill and work your way up to a 29/64" drill and drill out all the old bolt remnants. At this point tap the old nut on the hook with a 1/2" -18 tap thru. Go get the bolt you bought and using a grinder, grind a 6 sided (hex) head out of the round carriage bolt that the tire wrench will fit on. Use the tire wrench as a fit tool to test. Once complete, install the 2 washer on the bolt and drop through the existing bolt hole where the old bolt was. Slide the old tube / washer piece back on from under the car and lube the new bolt with anti seize compound. Spin (CW) the recently re-threaded hook piece on about an inch up the threads. Hook the tire carrier cradle on the hook, and using the tire iron wrench, tighten the bolt from the top until the tire and cradle are in the full up and snug position. All done. Now when you need to get to the spare you can!
 

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To all who own a Santa Fe, tomorrow or later today, go out, open your rear hatch and try to lower your spare tire... If you can't (and a lot of you won't be able too, due to the long bolt in the mechanism rusting solid to the nut) you will want to fix this right away. You can try some PB Blaster on the bolt and nut at the top of the hook and if that doesn't do it, take the tire iron and turn until u either break it loose or break the bolt in half. Now, how to fix it... cheap! Go to the nearest Tractor Supply store (or equivalent) and buy a 10" long 1/2" CARRIAGE BOLT and (2) 7/16" or 1/2" washers. Should cost under $2 by weight... take the old bolt parts out, cut (with a hack saw) the amount of old bolt sticking out of the hook piece "nut" that faced up, off. Now for the fun part, you have to drill out the old bolt from the nut (unless you want to pay over $80.00 for a new part). Start with a 3/16" drill and work your way up to a 29/64" drill and drill out all the old bolt remnants. At this point tap the old nut on the hook with a 1/2" -18 tap thru. Go get the bolt you bought and using a grinder, grind a 6 sided (hex) head out of the round carriage bolt that the tire wrench will fit on. Use the tire wrench as a fit tool to test. Once complete, install the 2 washer on the bolt and drop through the existing bolt hole where the old bolt was. Slide the old tube / washer piece back on from under the car and lube the new bolt with anti seize compound. Spin (CW) the recently re-threaded hook piece on about an inch up the threads. Hook the tire carrier cradle on the hook, and using the tire iron wrench, tighten the bolt from the top until the tire and cradle are in the full up and snug position. All done. Now when you need to get to the spare you can!
Hi I just bought this used 2012. The bolt turns within the assembly but nothing is happening and the spare is stuck rock solid. Do I have to torch the whole thing? I cant see how it works inside and PB blaster just makes the bolt turn even easier. I see the other end at the bottom turning as well
 
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