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RB Accent using Kia Rio springs

56K views 348 replies 30 participants last post by  Recker 
#1 ·
I was quite bored today and spent some time on this forum for some answers on many things for my 2015 Accent and really couldn't find what I needed.
So I did some research, 8 hours worth, and made some discoveries about the RB Accent and 3rd gen Kia Rio.
I'm not sure how far any on this forum have gone with this but here are some of the details I discovered which may give us some hope for our Accents for some parts.

First the Kia Rio and Accent share about the same weight, length, height, width, fuel capacity, and you get the idea.
Since I could not find a thing on lowering springs for the RB Accent I went deep.
I first went to the Kia OEM parts websites and dug into their springs, mounts, perches, and anything that would compare to the Accent.
Ironically they're all the same thing even down to the part numbers although Kia uses a different last 4 digits to differentiate their items from the Accent.

An example would be the springs have the same OEM part number on both the Kia Rio and Accent with no differences. The struts are identical with both the OEM and RockAuto parts being identical for both so that means they're interchangeable and exactly the same.
Even the calipers and rotors are the same for both cars including the rear discs for both the Kia Rio and Accent rear rotors. The only difference is that some of the Accents have drums for the rear while others have the discs. The Kia Rio's are all disc in the rear being the only difference but the rear rotors and calipers are identical in every way between the two cars.

The struts for the front are identical for the Rio and Accent and the shocks are too.

So basically what I'm trying to say is that any spring that will fit that 2012-2016 Rio will also fit the Accent and I am going to be one that will be making a purchase on these because I've got enough confidence with this research that I'm confident that they'll be a perfect fit.
With the weight of the two cars being about the same there should be little to no difference in the way the Accent will look when installed.

On another note I checked with the AEM cold air intake # 21-715C for the Veloster will also fit our Accents and sent an Email to AEM stating this so that they can do some test fitting of the intake to make 100% sure it fits and possibly market the product to the Accent users, not just for the Velosters.
Again, I did the research on the comparison of the Veloster OEM parts to the Accent OEM parts and they're identical in every respect so in theory should fit perfectly just like the Injen intake fits for now both the Accent and Veloster. Injen now has the Accent listed for the cai that was once only sold to the Veloster.

OEM parts don't lie on whether something is going to fit or not so I trust this information enough to consider it to be good.
I've seen posts on here where people were worried about fit and whether it will work for the springs because I feel this is a subject that will take years before the aftermarket makes parts for our Accents and like the Honda cars of past there is a lot of interchangeability with Kia and Accent that we've just not dug deep enough to see the comparison.

Sorry for the long winded post but I felt this information had to get out.
As a long time poster on the Cavalier, Honda, and Paseo forums of years ago I thought I'd pass this on to those that would take a leap of faith and may make progress for our cars.
I'm sure there will be skeptics but I'll definitely be one to give the springs a try in the very near future. I'm presently between jobs and once back on the road I'll be making purchases to get my Accent the way I want her.

Give this some thought and I'd like to hear what you think.
Thanks.

A couple of side notes if you will.
The Veloster aluminum water pulley will fit our Accents and available from SoCal Garageworks, made by NST. I researched the OEM parts for both and they're identical between the 2012-2016 Veloster and the RB Accent. the water pumps are the same as is their pulley's.

Same is true for the Shifter billet mounting bushings from the Veloster will fit the Accent as will their bronze cable bushings for the cable ends at the transmission.This is something I'll be adding to my Accent and have done so with my Paseo and love the feel of the shifts with the setup.
OEM part numbers are identical for both so they'll work.
 
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#75 ·
Well just a tiny update for the car and so happy this turned out the way it did.

I ordered a set of the DGR hy-28 coilovers for the Accent in the street version with 6kg front and rear springs.

From all the reading I've been doing and also from a review from the guys at KDMTuners, these DGR coilovers are better than the BCRacing.
My understanding is the shock/strut oil being used in the DGR units is far superior to the oil used in the BC coilovers.
They're also monotube construction as well.
When it comes to damping a better quality oil will be much easier to dial in the adjustments to the shock and also last longer too.

These cost me $890 out the door including shipping so again I'm happy I waited to find out about this up and coming company that even the guys at KDMTuners is now selling DGR on their website.

Once I get these in I'll take a couple of pictures of the product but will not be installing these until I get my rear axle swapped and upgraded braking setup going sometime next summer if all works out.

I'm keeping the H&R springs once the DGR's go on the car because I really like the springs and how good they are.

So for anyone needing a good set of coilovers they should check out the DGR coilovers as they're pretty much the only game in town with a quality product.
???
 
#76 ·
Well just a tiny update for the car and so happy this turned out the way it did.

I ordered a set of the DGR hy-28 coilovers for the Accent in the street version with 6kg front and rear springs.

From all the reading I've been doing and also from a review from the guys at KDMTuners, these DGR coilovers are better than the BCRacing.
My understanding is the shock/strut oil being used in the DGR units is far superior to the oil used in the BC coilovers.
They're also monotube construction as well.
When it comes to damping a better quality oil will be much easier to dial in the adjustments to the shock and also last longer too.

These cost me $890 out the door including shipping so again I'm happy I waited to find out about this up and coming company that even the guys at KDMTuners is now selling DGR on their website.

Once I get these in I'll take a couple of pictures of the product but will not be installing these until I get my rear axle swapped and upgraded braking setup going sometime next summer if all works out.

I'm keeping the H&R springs once the DGR's go on the car because I really like the springs and how good they are.

So for anyone needing a good set of coilovers they should check out the DGR coilovers as they're pretty much the only game in town with a quality product.
???
????
 
#80 ·
Really nice car. Love the sound. So much time and work put into it and it looks great.

Do any of you have a picture of the sotck shifter ... I would like to see if it's worth taking appart and custom make a short shifter out of it.
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That's the only one I have of the stock shifter.
Hope it helps you. ?
 
#81 ·
I am such a happy camper right now. ?
The DGR coilovers finally came in and after having to go through hoops with BCRacing and HSD stopping production of their coilovers for the RB I got something better.
???

Even though I won't be installing these until late spring I can already tell of the quality of these units. Monotube designed and DGR using some of the hydraulic oil in these units I can say along with all the reviews about these coilovers that they will be putting a hurting on the competition.

Here's a picture or two.
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DGR has a special pricing on these for the RB at $890 shipped which is a steal.
Im so excited for these and will get my axle swap done as soon as time allows to get these mounted.
I'm also wanting to install my upgraded brakes when all this goes down so once this is all said and done I'll only be needing to finish up some miscellaneous things to get the car ready for the turbo engine transplant.

I finalized all my electrical grounding in the engine bay and should do well for longevity as well as have way better conductivity with the materials used.
AntiGravity lithium battery will be replacing the sticker soon as it's been 4+ years for it so I might as well go for some weight reduction and get a battery rated to last 7-9 years compared to factory. Money well spent. ?

Here's a pic of the battery connections just done. Brass terminals as they'reway more conductive than lead and heavier wire used, lugged, and soldered for the ultimate connectivity.
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I won't have much time this week to do more but I'm always thrilled to jump in the seat and revel in the fact that this car is going to be a beast. ??
 
#84 ·
Thank you and you too. ??

I'm anxious for the coilovers on too but won't do them until my rear axle is ready to swap. I already ya e the s.s. Brake lines and calipers but need the rotors, pads, and some new dust shields to complete the new rear axle.
I'm changing out the rear bushings and replacing with poly units and debating if I should do a how to or not. ??
I'm going to try to press them out without a press but if needed will buy a shop press to press out the old and press in the new.
I ya e ways of getting bushings out without a press so we'll see with these. ??

From there it's going to be a major overhaul of the car with the new rear disc axlewith all new components attached, completely changing the front brakes with all new upgraded components and all the while bleeding it all out and trying to install the coilovers. ????
Should take a couple of days if all works out right. ??

Then its on to the oil cooler, upgraded fuel line, adding an AccuSump for pre-oiling, and making sure everything is ready for the turbo swap and tranny rebuild/ upgrade.

Man I'm so excited for this.
My biggest dream is to gap cars on the highway in some illegal street racing. ???

Some things never change and to say you got beat by a Hyundai Accent is priceless. ???
 
#86 ·
Thanx for the picture but it doesn't help much. I would have needed the pic while the shifter was disassembled. I want to know if it would be possible to make a custom short shifter with some cutting and welding below the pivot point.

Also your car looks great again. That custom interior paint job is looking good.
 
#87 ·
Thanx for the picture but it doesn't help much. I would have needed the pic while the shifter was disassembled. I want to know if it would be possible to make a custom short shifter with some cutting and welding below the pivot point.

Also your car looks great again. That custom interior paint job is looking good.
Thanks again. ?
Btw the interior is factory and not pained. ? I never have nor never will paint an interior. Too much trouble and it never lasts.

Sorry I don't have more for a picture of the shifter, it's all I've got.
I wish you luck on your short shifter project and if you do pursue it let us know with pics please. ???
 
#88 ·
It's been a while and thought I'd post an update.
I went all out and bought a set of hood louvers for the car from Whoosh MotorSport and they're manufactured by Verus Engineering.
Im glad I didn't get the Louvers from Pierce MotirSport because the Verus units had a bit more refined liook and Pierce would never give me the dimensions of their Ford Festiva ST louvers. Their loss of a sale. ?

These by Verus are made for the same Festiva ST as the Ford and Accent have similar hood lines so I knew these would look great on the car.

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This picture is where I had to measure them in the car and to get them aligned as they should be. It took 2-1/2 hours or more to get them perfect and even on the car.

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Here you can see how I kept the car covered and protected from the angle grinder while I cut out the holes.
I was so worried about doing this but took my time with the cuts and also used a diamond cut wheel for a cleaner cut and less grit from the cutting.
The template Verus provided had the holes already set on the template making it easy to get everything right.

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Here's the cut holes from the top and bottom. Not bad for someone doing this for the first time. ?

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Land vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive design Hood


The finished product came out great.
I painted all the holes and rough edges so they wouldn't rust and for those of you wondering what to do when it rains, Ive got some magnetic sign sheets cut out to cover the vents when parked. ?
Driving in the rain isn't an issue with the vents.
These do actually work by cooling off the car while driving and noticed the car dropping temps every time I'd go down the road. Very nice and functional product that really works.
I also finished opening up the top and bottom grill vents to allow more air into the engine also. So now there's no more blocked venting in the upper and lower grills.

Once I go turbo with this car I'll have all the facilities to keep this engine bay cool. Between the oil cooler and hood louvers track days will never be an issue.

So much more work to do to get this car ready. So little time. ?
 
#89 ·
Joined this site just for this thread! Love what you’ve done with your accent!

I just picked up a 2017 Accent Sport 2 months ago with 4K miles as a new daily. So far I’ve only done some minor things. K&N drop in filter, front/rear dashcam, removed the accent badge and black plasti dipped the H badges and chrome trim. I have an Evilla Magnaflow axle back and mudflaps showing up tomorrow. Super excited.

I can’t make my mind up on suspension. I’d like to make it handle a bit better and go a bit lower. I’ve been thinking about the KYB monotube shocks that are supposed to be 25% stiffer and H&R springs but KYB only makes OE replacement struts so not sure what I would do up front.?

I’ve also been contemplating the DGR or BC Racing Kia Rio Coilovers. I’m very interested to how your Coilovers perform. My accent is my daily and some of our roads are trashed so they can’t be too stiff.

I was also wondering if the sedan & hatch have different spring rates. My mom has a ‘16 Accent SE and it seems noticeably softer than my ‘17 Sport. I suppose it could be the 195/50r16 on my hatch that makes it feel stiffer and a bit more nimble.

Do you still have an IG? Tried to follow the IG you mentioned on the first page but the profile didn’t show up.
 
#90 ·
My IG account is dwn4lif. You could also look up James Martin too.

Thanks for the feedback and comments for sure. ??

For your suspension if you look at the cost of springs, struts, and shocks you'd be close to the cost of the DGR setup.
BCRacing no longer makes anything for the Accent or the Rio. I gave up on waiting for them and DGR are better from what I've read about them.

I will say the H&R springs are worth every penny. They go well together on stock struts and shocks. Perfect setup for any budget. ?

Sedan is lighter by 100 lbs than the hatch but suspension should still be the same.
Get the springs first and go from there. You'll be surprised how good the ride is and lowers no more than 1-1/4 inches all around.
Any lower and you ruin the handling and add a bunch of bump steer into the cars handling.

Oh and Evilla is the best. He's making me a one off axle back since there was nobody else interested in a group buy. Accent owners just don't know the potential for this car. ? Good to someone enthusiastic about their Accent. ?. This is why I started this thread so others can see what's possible with this platform

Invest in a catch can. Best investment you can make for your car.
Start a gallery/ show case for your ride and thanks for joining. ???
 
#91 ·
I might try out the KYB shocks with the H&R springs. I’ve heard just the KYB shocks are a huge upgrade over stock and they’re only $110 for the pair. No point in doing the struts since they’re practically new and only OE replacements are available.

I did see the the BC Racing Coilovers for ‘12-‘17 Kia Rio on CoiloverDepot. BC Racing doesn’t have them on their website though which I thought was a bit odd. Possibly discontinued.?

Evilla has had great customer service so far, answered all my questions quickly and made my exhaust over the weekend to make up for lost time while they were waiting to receive the resonator from Magnaflow.

I’ll definitely get an oil catch can soon! Which would you recommend? Is the Mishimoto a solid unit?

Definitely excited to start modding my accent some more, glad I’m not the only one. I would of loved to get the new Veloster N but being a broke college student that will have to wait ?
 
#92 ·
I might try out the KYB shocks with the H&R springs. I’ve heard just the KYB shocks are a huge upgrade over stock and they’re only $110 for the pair. No point in doing the struts since they’re practically new and only OE replacements are available.

(I've read different about the rear shocks.
From my understanding is that some have had issues with the KYB shocks not holding up and being no better than the OEM shocks.
Get the springs first and then make a decision. ?)



I did see the the BC Racing Coilovers for ‘12-‘17 Kia Rio on CoiloverDepot. BC Racing doesn’t have them on their website though which I thought was a bit odd. Possibly discontinued.?

(Yes they are discontinued and anyplace that says they have them is lying to you. I spent 9 months going from vendor to vendor offering the BC coilovers and they'd all get back with me saying they have to build them and I already have spoken with BC personally to know they no longer make them.
BC has always said they're working on the production of them but can't ever tell you when they'll be ready.
Im sorry but after a full year waiting on them to 'build' these I gave up So consider them to be discontinued due to lack of sales. ?
DGR is better and growing as a class builder of coilovers. ?)


Evilla has had great customer service so far, answered all my questions quickly and made my exhaust over the weekend to make up for lost time while they were waiting to receive the resonator from Magnaflow.
(Eli is awesome and one of the few that will work with you on getting exactly what you want. ?)


I’ll definitely get an oil catch can soon! Which would you recommend? Is the Mishimoto a solid unit?
(Highly recommended and for a few extra dollars the SaikouMichi catch can is one of the best and used in pretty much any car brand because they're so good.
They're custom made to order in any way you want it and do an awesome job at what they're supposed to do. A bit more expensive but worth it.
Currently I'm running 2 Mishimoto and 1 SaikouMichi for my setup. )



Definitely excited to start modding my accent some more, glad I’m not the only one. I would of loved to get the new Veloster N but being a broke college student that will have to wait ?
Any questions you have let me know.
Im always willing to help and answer questions. ??

Btw I answered your questions in your quote in parentheses. ?
 
#93 ·
Thats good to know! I’m very interested on how the DGR’s will perform once you install them.

Did you get the Veloster catch can from SaikouMichi or a custom one?

Installed my Evilla axle back with the Magnaflow resonator today I love how it looks ? It’s got a bit of a deep throaty tone around 1.5-3k rpm but fairly quiet after that. I still have the cats cause I’m in CA, the worst state for smog. Do you think if I delete the resonator after the second cat it will increase the sound a bit, or will it add a lot of drone?
 
#94 ·
I got the universal catch can and had it custom built but I still let SaikouMichi know it was for the Accent so that he would know to use a 3/8 inlet and 1/2 inch outlet connections.
You can get any color you want and even have AN fittings too if you want but they're extra cost.

Deleting the resonator will liven up the exhaust a bit more and not really sure if you'll have any drone or not since you'll still have both cats.
If it does drone it won't be bad.

Couple more notes for you.
Do the slave cylinder spring valve delete.
I posted a how to somewhere on the forums here and you could probably do a search and find it. Great free mod and lets the clutch engage with no restrictions and stops premature wear out of the clutch. ?

The other is the upper clutch switch mod where you disconnect the connector on top of the clutch pedal assembly and enjoy a revamped map for the clutch revs.
Theres 2 switches, one for the starting the car with the clutch engaged at the bottom, and the top is the one you want to disconnect.
Once disconnected drive it around for a bit and see how you like it on how it feels and sounds.
Some like it some don't but it does kill the rev hang up when you're shifting making it more like a real clutch setup and adds a nice little burble when You're decelerating.
I call it my 'sport' mode as I added a dash switch onto the connector wiring so I can turn it on or off at will. I turn it off when I'm on a long trip.
There's information on the switch hookup on this thread if you look for it.

These 2 above mods will liven up the fun to drive aspect of the car and a better feeling clutch to boot. ?
 
#95 ·
So did you have to do any modifications to make the Mishimoto OCC work since it says it has 5/8” inlet/outlet?

Also it seems the SaikouMichi unit is baffled and the Mishimoto is not. Does that mean it used some type of media filter?

Sorry for all the questions I’m not familiar with oil catch cans. Previously I thought they were only used for forced induction but it seems the GDI engines benefit from them quite a bit as well.

Thanks for the tips, although I’m ashamed to say my accent is automatic. All my previous cars were manuals but I’m looking at around 3 hours of commuting in terrible San Diego traffic so I wanted my new daily to be an auto. I intended on it being just a stock point A to B car but it’s hard to not modify every car I have ?. Just can’t go to crazy with anything that will void my warranty. I actually sold my manual EJ6 Civic which I loved and put a lot of work into so that I could get my accent.

I plan on getting another manual project weekend car in about a year when I’m done with school that I can go all out on.
 
#96 ·
Sorry but I forgot about it being 5/8 in size and yes it fit perfectly on the hoses I used.
Ive had the catch cans on the car so long I've forgotten all the hose sizes. ?
Also if you let SaikouMichi know what vehicle you have he will make sure you have the correct inlet and outlet nipples on the can.
Get the catch can and empty it every time you change your oil.
I have a YouTube tutorial on how to route the hoses if you need it

The Mishimoto is baffles and also had a 50 micron filter on the outlet tube to further filter out any fumes the baffle doesn't filter out. Good product and that's why I bought 2. ?

Just keep your car maintained and it'll last you a long time.
Best of luck with it. ?
 
#97 · (Edited)
Finally some updates on the car. ?
The first thing I attended to was the catch can setup and going completely vent to air and eliminate the pcv completely.
I had my original pcv and was going to drill it out but I have to say it is well made.
I gave up on that and installed a nipple adaptor where the pcv was so it would vent easily with no restrictions.
I did look into the intake manifold when I installed the 5mm throttlebody spacer and did notice a lot of sheen from the feedback of oily fumes getting into the manifold prior to the catch can.
Once I removed the pcv hose off of the SaikouMichi can I looked through it and notice zero oily mess or residue in the hose.
This tells me that the SaikouMichi catch can works great and does the job quite well but I still wanted zero feedback from anything from the pcv.
Here's how my pcv setup is now.
There's a pcv side, fresh air side, and I addedanother vent from the oil cap for the best ventilation I could get.
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I also added a ChaseBays 20oz billet windshield washer tank so I can eliminate the big and bulky factory unit.
This will also make room for my oil cooler setup being mounted in the space vacated by the factory coolant tank and also house my 1 quart Accusump pre-Oiler too.
I'll hopefully be pulling the bumper in a couple of days to get started with the installation of the oil cooler, hook up the ChaseBays windshield washer tank, and get an eye for where to install the Accusump.
Here's a pic of the windshield washer tank and it's nice and small and hard mounted to the strut tower for a perfect fit. I still have room to mount my power breaker next to the coolant tank for my electrical setup on the interior so it worked out great. ?
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So far things are coming along nicely for not only this n/a setup I have now but will be ready for the turbo motor coming next year.
I've decided to hold off on anymore parts in lieu of paying of the car ahead of time and my CDL school loan too. 3-4 months of no parts buying and I'll have both paid off and then I can really get things going.

There's still a ton of work to do though with the rear axle swap, wiring up my electrical setup for my gauges, power, turn installed, and distribution system.
It'll take at least that long to complete so plenty of time to pay things off. ??
 
#98 ·
More updates. ??
I'll try to keep it short this time. ?
I got the ChaseBays windshield washer tank wired up and functional and works every bit as good as the stock pump.
Factory washer tank removed and put away making more room.
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Here's a picture of how I opened up the factory upper and lower grill to promote improved airflow. Corner vents too.
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Here are my jack stand points which makes it simple to lift via the factory crimp rails and place jack stands as in the picture. Very solid and very strong reference for the stands to go. ?
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Got the Setrab oil cooler installed and still have room for my eventual intercooler under the crash beam.
I'll be plumbing the hoses once I get my Accusump pre-Oiler and also installingthe KDMTuners billet and baffles oil pan. ?
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More in the next post.
 
#99 ·
Last I finally got a chance to reinforce my trunk bar yesterday.
Now she's solid as a rock and really boxes in the trunk for less flex in the corners.
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Next I'm home I'll be working on the wiring of all the gauges and everything electrical inside the cabin.
That's going to take a few days to do but I'll have all the power, grounds, switches, and turn on's I'll need to to make it all work flawlessly. ??
 
#104 · (Edited)
Been awhile since I updated and I'm at the point to where things begin to slow down with wiring and working on the electrical end of it. 🤷🏼‍♂️
But first I thought I'd post up this link to a story I had on the 'gram. 😁


Couple of pics of the interior for now.
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I did purchase a Chase Bays Coolant overflow tank for relocation to an area clearing out the place the factory coolant overflow now occupies.
This should help with less restricted airflow into the engine for superior cooling.

Here is where I'll be installing my FuelLab 10 micron fuel filter and now need to purchase the upgraded fuel lines to hook this all up.
I'll be gabbing you a custom plate/ bracket for this and should look good when it's done and be out of the way for the eventual intake pipe for the turbo.
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I also installed my main circuit breaker for the power wire going into the interior of the car for my gauges, switches, and other electrical goodies. 😁
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More to do when I get home again in a few weeks.
Got to keep the truck rolling so all of you reading this can still have food on your tables and parts to buy. 🙏🏽👍

Oh and I'll add this about Josh from KDMTUNERS. I've been listening to ninetyoneoctane.com podcasts lately and they had Josh on there talking about all things KDM.
He talked about building (possibly) a n/a engine build, fully built, and making about 200-235 whp. 😳😍
I'll be hollering at him soon to get some information from him on my build and am now excited on possibly going with an n/a build like this.
He stated it should run 13's in the 1320 and cost about the same as the turbo build. 🙌
4 more months I'll have everything paid off and an extra $900 a month to play with.
You know where this is going. 😂👍😷
If a man can't dream then might as well dive 6 feet under and raise daisies.
 
#105 ·
I've had people ask for a sound clip of the Hyundai so here it is. 😂👍


And while I'm at it thought I'd update the thread with a couple of interior shots too.
I hardly drive this thing because I only have 5-6 days a month free time so I'm always amazed how new the car remains. I keep in a storage too so the sun doesn't get to it or any precipitation.

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Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Steering wheel City car


Im only home for a couple of days while I change trucking carriers. Hopefully I'll be making more miles and more money. 🙏🏽🍀
 
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