RB Accent using Kia Rio springs
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I thank you sir. ?
Electronic tech for 40 years, first class marine electrician, and electrician too make for very high quality work on my cars.
On the side markers it was the Dodge Charger that inspired me to do the side markers and also the trucking world too.
The Charger has them built into their wheel arch and looked refreshingly different and functional at the same time. I'm surprised more car companies haven't caught into this for the sake of safety and adding a nice touch to the car.
Anything to be better seen will help with night driving and they look pretty decent too.
Thanks for the support. ? ??
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do you have pictures of this?
I guess I'm going to take up the thread and hope nobody minds.
I couldn't find any side skirts that fit the Accent so decided to make my own .
It's not as ghetto as it may seem and looks good in my opinion. The J-channel is for vinyl siding and can get at Home Depot or Lowe's. Easy to cut and shape and rigid enough to make it strong and functional .
I used Scotch 30 pound double side adhesive tape as I didn't want to drill holes in the car. This tape is very strong and after a few weeks still doing well with no sags etc.
See the pictures and let me know what you think.
I couldn't find any side skirts that fit the Accent so decided to make my own .
It's not as ghetto as it may seem and looks good in my opinion. The J-channel is for vinyl siding and can get at Home Depot or Lowe's. Easy to cut and shape and rigid enough to make it strong and functional .
I used Scotch 30 pound double side adhesive tape as I didn't want to drill holes in the car. This tape is very strong and after a few weeks still doing well with no sags etc.
See the pictures and let me know what you think.
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I thought I'd bring this thread back to life and continue on with this build thread so others can see the progress of this car the 2015 RBAccent.
I'm just getting started with this build and it's going to be a journey that may take 2-3 years to complete.
I'll be posting up more pictures and some how to's on some of my installs so others can see what can be done.
I'll be home in about 10 days with a list of parts at the house and also going to pull a Kia Rio rear axle with disc brakes at the junk yard so I can do a drum to disc swap on the Accent.
I hate drums and discs work well for track days which is the purpose of this build.
A brand new 60mm throttle body from a 2013 Elantra is waiting to be installed and I'll do a how to on this. While I'm changing the throttle body I'll be doing a throttle body bypass and will have a how to on that as well.
I hadn't decided if I'm going to knife edge the throttle plate yet and may also flush up the plate screws too. I'll have to see everything when I get home to make that decision.
I did this on my Z24 drag car and Paseo and worked well for its purpose.
In the mean time here's a couple of pics of some recent work.
I'm just getting started with this build and it's going to be a journey that may take 2-3 years to complete.
I'll be posting up more pictures and some how to's on some of my installs so others can see what can be done.
I'll be home in about 10 days with a list of parts at the house and also going to pull a Kia Rio rear axle with disc brakes at the junk yard so I can do a drum to disc swap on the Accent.
I hate drums and discs work well for track days which is the purpose of this build.
A brand new 60mm throttle body from a 2013 Elantra is waiting to be installed and I'll do a how to on this. While I'm changing the throttle body I'll be doing a throttle body bypass and will have a how to on that as well.
I hadn't decided if I'm going to knife edge the throttle plate yet and may also flush up the plate screws too. I'll have to see everything when I get home to make that decision.
I did this on my Z24 drag car and Paseo and worked well for its purpose.
In the mean time here's a couple of pics of some recent work.
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99 Posts
I've been reading up on the 60mm TB from the elantra and stumbled across people saying the elantra gt airbox was larger and bolted in? Any word on that? Can't seem to find any concrete write ups.
I know my K&N drop in helped with low rpm & higher load hesitation so I'd imagine a larger surface area would do some good - especially if paired with a larger TB.
My concern starts to be intake velocity at that point. It's only a N/A 1.6L and not exactly completely starved for air.
I'm running the AEM cold air on the car and I will see how the larger flange on the 60mm will accept the AEM intake adaptor.
If it's rubber it should squeeze onto the 60mm with not too many issues.
Factory air box is gone so no issues there for me.
The 1.6 intake on these engines are 60mm inlets and stock throttle bodies are 57mm.
I'm also doing this for my eventual Veloster turbo engine swap down the road.
The engine swap will be the last thing to finalize this build.
Pierce Motorsport has a nice turbo upgrade and engine rebuild kit that I'll be getting for this swap.
That's a guaranteed 300+ HP for the car with near stock drivability.
I'm building the perfect sleeper with this car. No one will ever suspect. ?
Oh and don't worry about intake velocity or anything like that. If anything it should smooth out the flow for better throttle response and more HP at the top end.
For track days the top end will be what I need until I get the turbo engine etc. ??
Finally got some parts in and I'll be installing these while I'm home.
Brand new ($69) 2013 Elantra 60mm throttle body. I'll do a how to on this if I don't mess it up. ?
New NRG wheel, hub, and gen 2 quick release for the car. Removable wheel is a must when installing gauges and have to get under the dash to run wires. Plus it looks good too. ?
I'll try to do a how to on this as well.
Stay tuned. ?
Brand new ($69) 2013 Elantra 60mm throttle body. I'll do a how to on this if I don't mess it up. ?
New NRG wheel, hub, and gen 2 quick release for the car. Removable wheel is a must when installing gauges and have to get under the dash to run wires. Plus it looks good too. ?
I'll try to do a how to on this as well.
Stay tuned. ?
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28 Posts
Tuned for that wheel install, picking myself up a Nardi soon and i'm gonna use the same adapter.
Just got done with the throttlebody install and will post up the how to shortly.
Pretty straight forward and also did the coolant bypass mod too.
IAT's staying much lower now, long fuel trims stayed the same, and all seems good so far.
I'm happy with it all. ??
Pretty straight forward and also did the coolant bypass mod too.
IAT's staying much lower now, long fuel trims stayed the same, and all seems good so far.
I'm happy with it all. ??
Hopefully I'll be doing that tomorrow and again do a how to on it.
So here is the how to on the Elantra throttle body install.
Pictures will be below in reasonable order of the install.
First I wanted to show everyone what a 40mm offset rims looks like on the Accent.
These are 15x7 rims, 40mm offset and I did use some 6mm CNC machined spacers on the rear to make both front and back wheels exactly the same in their stance.
Once the car is lowered with BCRACING coilovers for the Rio this should have a perfect stance and wheel setup without rubbing.
The other shot of the rear is there because it's just a bit sexy. ???
Now for the throttlebody and I'm going to make 2 posts on this for all the pictures to fit.
The first thing I did with the throttlebody was to file down the throttle plate screws as you can see in the next 2 pictures. I used a 21mm socket to keep the tb open while I was working on it.
Screws came out sweet and helps with air flow and turbulence especially when it's going to be boosted later down the road.
Next I removed the coolant bypass connections by hacksawing them off and filing flush. These are pressed in and I tried to pull them out but were too difficult to do so.
Came out good and cleaned up the look of the tb.
As you can see in the next picture there's a side by side comparison of the 2 tb's and the Elantra is bigger in diameter.
I have the AEM intake so it was no problem to squeeze the adapter into the new Elantra tb.
More on the next post. ?
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285 Posts
I hope that rear drum to disc conversion goes right for you. As a GS owner I was interested in trying that myself, but some other posters were of the opinion that the ABS computer will never accept or work with the new disc brakes. If you try it and it goes well please let us know how to do it - thanks!
Now the fun part. ?
In the last picture I posted with the adaptor coupling on the throttlebody there's a bung that will need to be drilled.
Since the bing is too small to drill and tap I tried something different and worked out great.
I first used a drill bit the size as the original bung hole and drilled through.
I stepped up to a larger size drill bit and finished with a final drill bit size of 5/16 inch.
Be steady on your drilling so the bore is equal size throughout and not wobbly or this won't work.
I went to the parts store and found some 5/16 brake tubing in a short length and cut off one end woth a tubing cutter.
I matche it to the size as the 57mm tb and once cut I beveled the cut end with a file for easy insertion for anpress I'm fit.
Once beveled this tube should have to gently tapped in with a hammer to press it into the drilled bung you did earlier.
I tapped mine just deep enough to protrude into the tb and filled off the excess and made sure the tube is now snug and tight in the bung.
It was and finalized the setup with some blue picture on the outside of the tube to make sure it's completely sealed.
The flared end will act as your nipple needed to hold the hose onto the tube similar to what a barb would do. Worked perfectly. ?
Next pictures will show you where to remove the hose and bolt with my fingers showing where they're located. Remove these.
Next remove the 4 bolts that hold the tb to the intake manifold.
From ther you should have better access to get to your coolant lines for the tb.
I used a needle nose vice grip and small vice grip pliers to seal off the coolant so that there would be little loss of fluid when removing these hoses.
I used a 90 degree barbed coupler for the coolant bypass and once done make sure the bypass hosing doesn't interfere with any of the other hoses or intake pipe.
I did not cut any of the original hosing of the coolant bypass and there are no kinks in either of the lines and used worm gear clamps to seal off the ends.
From there install you're new to onto the intake manifold, hook everything back as it was and the rest is pretty self explanatory.
Last picture shows the finished product and when I finally do a coolant flush I'm going to rearrange the coolant bypass hosing with something a bit cleaner looking and more efficiently.
I'm quite happy with this install and now gets me ready for more airflow for my eventual turbo swap on the car.
So far my IAT temperatures have remained cooler going from 140 degree in stop and go traffic to now only 120 degrees. Nice improvement.
Long trim fuel numbers have stayed the same so that's good news also meaning the ECM has settled down the air/ fuel mixture as it should.
All else is good and top end is much more efficient under full throttle.
Drivability is pretty much unchanged but seems to have less lag than previously as if there was much anyway.
For those wondering I am running the AEM cai, mid cat delete pipe by Evilla, and muffler change for a very quick running car. Much improved with the above mods.
Hope this helps anyone wanting to do this. ??
In the last picture I posted with the adaptor coupling on the throttlebody there's a bung that will need to be drilled.
Since the bing is too small to drill and tap I tried something different and worked out great.
I first used a drill bit the size as the original bung hole and drilled through.
I stepped up to a larger size drill bit and finished with a final drill bit size of 5/16 inch.
Be steady on your drilling so the bore is equal size throughout and not wobbly or this won't work.
I went to the parts store and found some 5/16 brake tubing in a short length and cut off one end woth a tubing cutter.
I matche it to the size as the 57mm tb and once cut I beveled the cut end with a file for easy insertion for anpress I'm fit.
Once beveled this tube should have to gently tapped in with a hammer to press it into the drilled bung you did earlier.
I tapped mine just deep enough to protrude into the tb and filled off the excess and made sure the tube is now snug and tight in the bung.
It was and finalized the setup with some blue picture on the outside of the tube to make sure it's completely sealed.
The flared end will act as your nipple needed to hold the hose onto the tube similar to what a barb would do. Worked perfectly. ?
Next pictures will show you where to remove the hose and bolt with my fingers showing where they're located. Remove these.
Next remove the 4 bolts that hold the tb to the intake manifold.
From ther you should have better access to get to your coolant lines for the tb.
I used a needle nose vice grip and small vice grip pliers to seal off the coolant so that there would be little loss of fluid when removing these hoses.
I used a 90 degree barbed coupler for the coolant bypass and once done make sure the bypass hosing doesn't interfere with any of the other hoses or intake pipe.
I did not cut any of the original hosing of the coolant bypass and there are no kinks in either of the lines and used worm gear clamps to seal off the ends.
From there install you're new to onto the intake manifold, hook everything back as it was and the rest is pretty self explanatory.
Last picture shows the finished product and when I finally do a coolant flush I'm going to rearrange the coolant bypass hosing with something a bit cleaner looking and more efficiently.
I'm quite happy with this install and now gets me ready for more airflow for my eventual turbo swap on the car.
So far my IAT temperatures have remained cooler going from 140 degree in stop and go traffic to now only 120 degrees. Nice improvement.
Long trim fuel numbers have stayed the same so that's good news also meaning the ECM has settled down the air/ fuel mixture as it should.
All else is good and top end is much more efficient under full throttle.
Drivability is pretty much unchanged but seems to have less lag than previously as if there was much anyway.
For those wondering I am running the AEM cai, mid cat delete pipe by Evilla, and muffler change for a very quick running car. Much improved with the above mods.
Hope this helps anyone wanting to do this. ??
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I'll be pulling the axle probably Sunday.
The only reason the ABS may not work is because the disc setup may have a different amount of abs gear teeth that the computer reads.
If that's the case I may do an abs delete like I did on my Z24 drag car. Driving competitively you learne how to use your brakes in a controlled manner and apply the right pressure as needed for heavy braking.
I'm not sure if I'll have the time to look at the teeth of both the drum and disc setup but now that you're mentioning it I'll be doing some research on it while I'm on the road and let you know.
I'll be out for another 4 or 5 weeks and back home again.
Thanks for the heads up on this. ?
Got the nrg steering wheel installed and here's the how to in detail.
First there are no instructions on this but I figured everything out. Also you will lose traction control on your car, you'll lose your self cancel on the turn signals, and the horn button on the nrg steering wheel will be useless but I did include how to still have a horn. ?
Again pictures will be in the order of my posting so here goes.
First thing you want to do with your wheel is install the big aluminum clip ring into the wheel as the first picture shows. I used the open end to designate north or top center of the wheel.
Next you want to put the wheel with the dot marking top center onto the quick release as shown and once you do install the horn button into the hole. The big aluminum c ring is used to retain the horn button and keep it from moving. It will be a snug fit.
Next install the 6 bolt trim ring on top of all that and screw it down tight.
Since you won't be able to use any of the wiring of the horn setup might as well cut them off like I did so you won't have them getting in the way of anything. The quick release is centered to the top and will only engage when in that position.
Next you want to remove the air bag. Disconnect your negative battery terminal and proceed to use a T40 bit for the 2 screws on either side of the wheel. Blue handled bit driver shows where they're located.
Try popping off the air bag and if it doesn't come off you'll have to go one step further.
There's 2 or 3 covered screws you can remove to get better access to the T40 screws as seen in the pictures.
Remove the air bag and release the plugs and harnesses as pictured.
Continued on next post.
First there are no instructions on this but I figured everything out. Also you will lose traction control on your car, you'll lose your self cancel on the turn signals, and the horn button on the nrg steering wheel will be useless but I did include how to still have a horn. ?
Again pictures will be in the order of my posting so here goes.
First thing you want to do with your wheel is install the big aluminum clip ring into the wheel as the first picture shows. I used the open end to designate north or top center of the wheel.
Next you want to put the wheel with the dot marking top center onto the quick release as shown and once you do install the horn button into the hole. The big aluminum c ring is used to retain the horn button and keep it from moving. It will be a snug fit.
Next install the 6 bolt trim ring on top of all that and screw it down tight.
Since you won't be able to use any of the wiring of the horn setup might as well cut them off like I did so you won't have them getting in the way of anything. The quick release is centered to the top and will only engage when in that position.
Next you want to remove the air bag. Disconnect your negative battery terminal and proceed to use a T40 bit for the 2 screws on either side of the wheel. Blue handled bit driver shows where they're located.
Try popping off the air bag and if it doesn't come off you'll have to go one step further.
There's 2 or 3 covered screws you can remove to get better access to the T40 screws as seen in the pictures.
Remove the air bag and release the plugs and harnesses as pictured.
Continued on next post.
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First picture is the air bag removed and the left over harnesses.
I marked the big bolt as shown to show top center to make it easier.
Remove the top and bottom halves of the steering console and use a screwdriver as shown and gently use the clocknspring as leverage to pop the 2 halves open. Quite easy.
You'll see 3 screws on the bottom half you'll need to remove first.
Next the clock spring and everybody says to not spin it and all that but really it was easy to figure out how to set it back if you ever want to reinstall your OEM wheel.
In the picture you'll see both of my fingers pointing to the glass with the orange thing and the top of the harness connector. This is top center for your clock spring.
So if you go spinning it around like I did just turn it to the point that it looks exactly as shown and you'll be centered and golden. ?.
Now remove the clock spring and the horn ground wire and you're ready to install the hub.
You'll see 3 tabs that make the clock spring easy to remove as the picture shows.
Remove the 3 harness connectors and remove the clock spring.
In the picture you'll see me pointing to a blue wire and this is your horn wire. Ground this wire to body ground and the horn blows so this wire is your horn.
Cut this wire as shown and add a small length of additional wire as shown. You'll need this for your new horn switch.
Bundle up your harnesses as shown with some tie wraps and add another wire which will be your ground wire for your horn.
I chose tha screw just below the steering column bolt as shown in the picture and makes an excellent ground for your wire.
Last picture shows what switch I had laying around from previous car projects and any switch will do as long as it's a normally open contact switch. That means it makes electrical contact only when you press the button which is perfect for a horn button.
I picked this location as it's easy access and similar to the horn button Inhad in another car build Inhad so I'm used to it's position. ?
Onto the next post. ?
I marked the big bolt as shown to show top center to make it easier.
Remove the top and bottom halves of the steering console and use a screwdriver as shown and gently use the clocknspring as leverage to pop the 2 halves open. Quite easy.
You'll see 3 screws on the bottom half you'll need to remove first.
Next the clock spring and everybody says to not spin it and all that but really it was easy to figure out how to set it back if you ever want to reinstall your OEM wheel.
In the picture you'll see both of my fingers pointing to the glass with the orange thing and the top of the harness connector. This is top center for your clock spring.
So if you go spinning it around like I did just turn it to the point that it looks exactly as shown and you'll be centered and golden. ?.
Now remove the clock spring and the horn ground wire and you're ready to install the hub.
You'll see 3 tabs that make the clock spring easy to remove as the picture shows.
Remove the 3 harness connectors and remove the clock spring.
In the picture you'll see me pointing to a blue wire and this is your horn wire. Ground this wire to body ground and the horn blows so this wire is your horn.
Cut this wire as shown and add a small length of additional wire as shown. You'll need this for your new horn switch.
Bundle up your harnesses as shown with some tie wraps and add another wire which will be your ground wire for your horn.
I chose tha screw just below the steering column bolt as shown in the picture and makes an excellent ground for your wire.
Last picture shows what switch I had laying around from previous car projects and any switch will do as long as it's a normally open contact switch. That means it makes electrical contact only when you press the button which is perfect for a horn button.
I picked this location as it's easy access and similar to the horn button Inhad in another car build Inhad so I'm used to it's position. ?
Onto the next post. ?
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Again here is the under side of the switch so you can see how it mounted.
Next picture shows how I removed the hub piece wiring since it's not useable.
Line up the hub as shown in the third picture making sure the white dot lines up with the mark you made on the steering bolt.
Tighten down the steering bolt really good and then install the red quick release hub as shown and tighten down all the screw nice and secure but not too tight to strip.
Remember to align the top center marks on the red quick release hub too.
Yes out your steering wheel onto the hub and MAKE SURE YOUR WHEELS ARE STRAIGHT before you finish up. Top centers should be on top with your front tires pointing straight ahead.
Remove the wheel via the quick release hub and install your steering console covers. Hook up your horn switch and put it all together.
Last couple of pictures show the finished product.
Hope this helps someone out.
I love my wheel and looks great. It's the reinforced wheel sold by nrg which is used for racing purposes so it's not going to break in you.
Any questions please ask. ?
Next picture shows how I removed the hub piece wiring since it's not useable.
Line up the hub as shown in the third picture making sure the white dot lines up with the mark you made on the steering bolt.
Tighten down the steering bolt really good and then install the red quick release hub as shown and tighten down all the screw nice and secure but not too tight to strip.
Remember to align the top center marks on the red quick release hub too.
Yes out your steering wheel onto the hub and MAKE SURE YOUR WHEELS ARE STRAIGHT before you finish up. Top centers should be on top with your front tires pointing straight ahead.
Remove the wheel via the quick release hub and install your steering console covers. Hook up your horn switch and put it all together.
Last couple of pictures show the finished product.
Hope this helps someone out.
I love my wheel and looks great. It's the reinforced wheel sold by nrg which is used for racing purposes so it's not going to break in you.
Any questions please ask. ?
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Well they didn't have the Kia Rio at the junkyard anymore so no axle to pull.
Disappointed I decided to finally work on my trunk bar project.
Trunk bars are designed to close off the open end of the spare tire opening at the hatch or in my case sedan.
Every trunk bar I've installed has been very effective for the stiffness of the rear of the car and this would be my 4 install on 4 different cars. All have worked wonderfully for what they do and no aftermarket company made these so I hit up the junkyards, pull factory strut bars off of many different cars or at least bars that look like they'd fit the application I'm working on.
For this bar I found one from a Ford or Lincoln and it was their strut bar.
Long story short it fit with no modification to the bar at all. It's a 3 point setup on the Hyundai and stiffened upmthe rear nicely.
I was even able to use the full trunk carpet with no modifications and the trunk cover as well.
With a disappointing run at the junkyard it still turned out to be an excellent day of more chassis work.
Chassis is about done with Evilla sending me an x-brace which is new in their inventory and also a 2 point brace for the front control arms.
I already have the 4 point brace but will be removing it for the new setup which takes the place of the original 6 point brace Evilla and Pierce was selling.
The 4 point will be up for sale if anyone is interested.
Pics below and thanks for putting up with my posting. ???
Back in the road again for another 4 week hitch. ?
Disappointed I decided to finally work on my trunk bar project.
Trunk bars are designed to close off the open end of the spare tire opening at the hatch or in my case sedan.
Every trunk bar I've installed has been very effective for the stiffness of the rear of the car and this would be my 4 install on 4 different cars. All have worked wonderfully for what they do and no aftermarket company made these so I hit up the junkyards, pull factory strut bars off of many different cars or at least bars that look like they'd fit the application I'm working on.
For this bar I found one from a Ford or Lincoln and it was their strut bar.
Long story short it fit with no modification to the bar at all. It's a 3 point setup on the Hyundai and stiffened upmthe rear nicely.
I was even able to use the full trunk carpet with no modifications and the trunk cover as well.
With a disappointing run at the junkyard it still turned out to be an excellent day of more chassis work.
Chassis is about done with Evilla sending me an x-brace which is new in their inventory and also a 2 point brace for the front control arms.
I already have the 4 point brace but will be removing it for the new setup which takes the place of the original 6 point brace Evilla and Pierce was selling.
The 4 point will be up for sale if anyone is interested.
Pics below and thanks for putting up with my posting. ???
Back in the road again for another 4 week hitch. ?
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