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Discussion Starter #1
2006 Santa Fe with 2.7L 131K miles.

When engine cold with MAF sensor plugged in car will die after 10 -15 seconds .. unplug MAF sensor and car will stay running just very rough.. Once car is warmed up I can plug sensor back in and car runs fairly well at idle, but very poor acceleration and poor shifting , wont accelerate over 35 MPH and will eventually stall with P300 and P305 and P306.. If I pull the MAF sensor plug it will again run and drive but roughly, but will accelerate over 35MPH, but RPMS spike to around 4K before shifting into OD/4th..

I replaced MAF sensor(twice) with aftermarket.. I changed all sparks plugs and wires ( new NGK Platinum and NGK wires) Cleaned Throttle body, coil pack appears new..

I have a new Cam Shaft sensor, but **** I cant get the old one out...

new Crankshaft sensor and IAC coming tomorrow.

I found a TSB talking about Oil Control valves causing a misfire. but lots of google and youtube searches show the location for the 2.4, 3.3 and the 2007 and newer 2.7s but not the 2001-2006 2.7..

also.. when i run with tht MAF sensor plugged in and get the misfire code.. i do get a rotten egg smell, but not with the MAF sensor unplugged
 

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Hmm. Let me see if I can find some info on pin out and bias voltages to get a reading. Give me a couple of hours and I will see what I can find.
 

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What time zone are you in? (a polite nudge to fill out your profile. :) )

Also, give us some history here. Is this a new to you vehicle that came with the problem, or has it been running fine and the problem just showed up?

Any other repairs done recently? Just because the coil pack looks new doesn't mean it is.

Check the contacts in the MAF harness connector to be sure they are fully snapped in. Otherwise they can push back and give an intermittent connection.

What started you down the MAF path? were there other codes thrown that indicated a MAF failure?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What time zone are you in? (a polite nudge to fill out your profile. <img src="http://www.hyundai-forums.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> )

Also, give us some history here. Is this a new to you vehicle that came with the problem, or has it been running fine and the problem just showed up?

Any other repairs done recently? Just because the coil pack looks new doesn't mean it is.

Check the contacts in the MAF harness connector to be sure they are fully snapped in. Otherwise they can push back and give an intermittent connection.

What started you down the MAF path? were there other codes thrown that indicated a MAF failure?

Central time zone... The car is new to me,. Bought it for my son ,. Got it very cheap and was hoping to only have to throw a few hundred to get it running right...... And an update... The car will start with the MAF unplugged now , but is very rough time running... And I consitently get a p306 after about ten minutes of run time.. unplugging the MAF does make the car run better and allows speeds over 35 mph.. but it's still very rough.....

As I stated earlier, If I drive MAF plugged in it won't go over 35, and will end up stalling with a p300, P305 and P306...

As far as recent work,. It has a fairly new starter and AC unit...

I have replaced the plus and wires, IAC and been trying to get the darn crankshaft sensor replaced,. But think I'm gonna have to pull the starter...howver through wires arenotdried on the crank sensor and it also appears new...

Pulled the new #6 plug last night and it already had some black carbon buildup..

I swapped the #6 and #4 fuel injectors to see if the codemoved but it didn't...
 

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Unfortunately this engine does not use discrete coils, but a coil pack, so we can't move coils around for diagnostics. Let me ping another guy on here with a lot of experience on this engine and get his input.
 

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Oh, and don't get caught in the MAF trap. Even when working correctly, unplugging it puts the engine into limp mode and can cover up the root cause of the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am heading local pick n pay junkyard, just to see if I can get a few parts... New injectors will be in today.. I was told if it was the coil I would be getting paired codes with the other plug on the coil..so p303 and p306...

Also took temp readings on the catalyctic converters and they top and bottom.. but the front one was running about 100 degrees hotter than the rear
 

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Do you have any way of getting additional data PID's when misfire is happening like Short Term Fuel Trim, Long Term FT, Advance/Retrad, O2 sensor readings, MAF reading, TPS... etc. All of those should be available with a fairly cheap OBDII scanner as they're basic data. Before throwing a bunch of parts at it, I think you need to look to see if engine is dumping fuel/cutting it back; are the O2 sensors responding, is your cam stuck in advance/retard and thus affecting timing.

Also checking contributing vs non-contributing cylinders by pulling each plug wire. Ruling out mechanical is a bit harder but compression could also be an issue. Is the knock sensor picking up interference and thus trying to correct an issue that doesn't exist. You mentioned the cat temps vary; is one plugged up thus forcing exhaust back into combustion chamber (again, O2 data is your friend).

What you'll spend in parts, you might want to invest in a semi-decent scantool to at least get the basic PIDs and go from there.
 

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Aftermarket MAF? Where did you get it. I too had MAF go bad on my 2.7 and went to a cheap aftermarket, TWICE. Both would not allow the car to run right. MAF reading were high on one low and on the other. Went to advance auto and spent $120 and car ran great. 252,000 miles and still has it in it. Aftermarket is not always good. If you paid less than $100 for a MAF your taking your chances. This however, doesn't look like a MAF problem.


Agreed, you really need a good scanner to see what is going on. OBD Link SX and laptop work great. They give you free software and you can live map all your PIDS on a big laptop screen. They also make a smart phone Blue Tooth version but I prefer the big screen of my laptop.


https://www.scantool.net/obdlink-sx/
 

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Yeah I have the paid version of the torque app and the Hyundai PIDs installed ... I will get the exact readings on the various items here in a bit and post... ..

Yeah it was a Dorman after market MAF from O'Reilly... Tried two different ones with same issue....
 

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oohhh, Dorman has a history with sensors being not. quite. right. Ran into this with a cam position sensor on a Chrysler 4cyl in a PT Cruiser. Finally bit the bullet and bought the OEM Mopar sensor, problem solved.
 

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That includes their non-electronic components too like hubs, bars, links... Sometimes they get it right but in most cases you’ll be buying OEM anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So new code with the #3 fuel injector... Also o2sensor voltage was all over the place... Sensor 1-1and 2-1 cycled from .15 to .75/.80. Sensor 1-2and 2-2 stayed at.84.
 

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Since you can't go much faster than 35mph I would be checking for a clogged CAT. Remove the upstream o2 sensors and drive. Start with the easy one by the radiator side of engine and drive. If things don't improve remove the upstream one in the back and drive again. It would be loud but it will help you determine if and which CAT is having a problem. If your acceleration improves then you've found your ansewer. Worth a shot and you wont have to spend money on parts to test.

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Those O2 reading are good. Sensor 1 will cycle and the sensor 2 will stay high once warmed up. That tells you the CATS are working. When sensor 2 starts cycling like sensor 1 the CATS are done. What is your MAF reading? At idle
 

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Agreed, O2 readings look normal and fuel trims look good too. I'd start with the most obvious one which is the aftermarket MAF. Either put the old one back (clean it first to see if you can get it to respond), get an OEM junk-yard replacement (still could be sketchy) or buy a brand new quality/OEM. This is probably not the part you want to go cheap on. Also, check voltage going to MAF that the PCM is supplying voltages and ground.

Speaking of voltage, check fuses (with DVOM) and that your alternator is actually putting out enough power or that you don't have a massive voltage drop. Funny things happen to circuits when they don't have enough power.

You said you swapped injectors... double-check that you've seated them correctly and you don't have any fuel/compression leaks now. Double check that everything is re-plugged in and seated in connectors including your injectors and plugs, primary ignition cables... etc. You can always check resistance of known good fuel injectors and compare to the one having issues. But since you did a swap and nothing changed, could potentially rule that out.

The MAF is the most obvious issue here so before you get too far, see if a quality part can get that corrected and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for all the responses... Tried a junkyard factory MAF yesterday and things were worse/ ( I did use MAF cleaner on it first). ... Got a p102 right away... Ordered a new genuine Hyundai MAF yesterday ,. Will be here Monday... Since I already have the crank and cam sensors , I am going to replace them today... What voltages should I see on the MAF sensor plug..
 
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