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I just bought a 2000 Elantra and the radio, clock, dome light, and map lights do not work. The radio lights up when I turn on the lights but will not come on. I have checked all the fuses in the kick panel under the dash and the light bulbs in each light everything looks fine. Any advice on what to check next?
 

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I am having the same issue: Interior light, Radio, and Instrument panel Clock not working... but all the lights come on at engine start and the car seems to run well otherwise. I will continue to search the forums for an anwer.

History of my problem... in case you have a similar issue or don't know why you have this problem:

I attempted to jump the dead battery in the dark and 'stupidly' managed to connect the possitive lead from the good battery to the negative terminal on my dead battery. (I have since reviewed in depth the correct method for jump-starting a vehicle).
After a good shower of sparks the vehicle was COMPLETELY dead. The next day with the sun up I was able to check all fuses and found I had blown the 100A 32V ALTernator Fuse in the Engine bay fuse box. This was screwed into place with the cables from the battery. After replacing the fuse and installing a new battery the engine started up fine - with only the above issue. All interior fuses check good. I have to check out the relays in the Engine Bay fuse box... but hoping I didnt' blow a control module.

The search continues...

Associated Threads from this forum:
Electrical problems on 2001 Lantra
 

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OK... found the solution on my own...

First I will tell you how I 'passed' the issue... I checked all of the 'spade' style fuses while they were installed in the fuse box (both below steering column and in engine bay) and all fuses had continuity.

While checking the fuses the driver's side door was open and the interior light switch was set to turn on with open door.

If you haven't guess already... I was measuring continuity of the light bulb!!!

I found a 10A fuse was blown in the engine bay - it was labled as alarm or something (thus why I did not suspect it as bad the first time around)...

After replacing the 10A fuse - the dash board clock, the radio, and the interior light all work as normal!
:banana: :banana: :banana:
 

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Check one by one

So the same thing happened to me. I checked all the fuses inside the car and under the hood with one of those small tools that they sell at Pep Boys. They were all good. I then took it to a friend of mine who knows a lot about cars, and he checked them all with a special tool that he hooked up to the battery as well. He found one inside the car to the left of the steering wheel that was blown. It was a 15 a fuse. He changed it and everything worked. I guess the point is that the tool that they sell at Pep Boysis not always reliable, and that you should try to check them one by one to see if they're blown.
 

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I feel like an idiot posting this...but may help others.

I was working on a blower problem and was checking fuses inside
to try and locate the problem.

I opened fuse box....there was a black thing that looked like a fuse puller
in the middle of the box. I pulled it off and tried to use it to pull fuses.
It didn't work.

I put it back in and proceeded to check fuses...but then
noticed my clock, dome lights, etc were not working.

Oh great...I must of blown that fuse messing around.

After checking all fuses inside and under the hood....nothing.

Days later I came across a post that explained it all.

The black thing I thought was a fuse puller was a resistor or something.
The manufacturer puts it on to save the battery from being drained
enroute to the dealers. The dealers then turn the resisitor 180 degrees
and it powers everything up. Hence....when I plugged it back in after
trying to pull fuses, I got it in backwards.
Pulled it out, turned it over and plugged it back in....and all is well again.

I learned something today...maybe it will help others.
 

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I feel like an idiot posting this...but may help others.
The black thing I thought was a fuse puller was a resistor or something.
The manufacturer puts it on to save the battery from being drained
enroute to the dealers. The dealers then turn the resisitor 180 degrees
and it powers everything up. Hence....when I plugged it back in after
trying to pull fuses, I got it in backwards.
Pulled it out, turned it over and plugged it back in....and all is well again.
Wow, would have never figured this out, it fixed my problem. Thanks so much!
 

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The black thing I thought was a fuse puller was a resistor or something.
The manufacturer puts it on to save the battery from being drained
enroute to the dealers. The dealers then turn the resisitor 180 degrees
and it powers everything up. Hence....when I plugged it back in after
trying to pull fuses, I got it in backwards.
Pulled it out, turned it over and plugged it back in....and all is well again.

I learned something today...maybe it will help others.
Sounds like something I'd do and then spend the next hour and a half scratching my head and going What the F:eek:?!?!
 

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OK... found the solution on my own...

First I will tell you how I 'passed' the issue... I checked all of the 'spade' style fuses while they were installed in the fuse box (both below steering column and in engine bay) and all fuses had continuity.

While checking the fuses the driver's side door was open and the interior light switch was set to turn on with open door.

If you haven't guess already... I was measuring continuity of the light bulb!!!

I found a 10A fuse was blown in the engine bay - it was labled as alarm or something (thus why I did not suspect it as bad the first time around)...

After replacing the 10A fuse - the dash board clock, the radio, and the interior light all work as normal!
:banana: :banana: :banana:
Man, don't you love how that makes you feel when you figure it out? Go in the house, lay back in the recliner, and power nap! Done for the day!
 

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I'm looking for a photo of the bulbs (already installed) in the map lights of a 2000 Elantra, please. I couldn't find one online, or a video of how to change them. They were out when I got the car and I know they pop right in but would like to see a pic if possible.

I also have the issue with radio, clock, and interior lights so will check fuses for that.
 

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That's a diode.
There you go with the assumptions again.

That's not a diode. It's just a connector with two of it's terminals linked together. When the connector is inserted inserted into the fusebox the right way round, the linked terminals apply power to the interior light fuse on the fusebox. When the connector is inserted the other way round, the power supply to the fuse is open circuit.

Jacob Lambert must have had an XD Elantra though because the J2 didn't have that type of transport connector.
 

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There you go with the assumptions again.

That's not a diode. It's just a connector with two of it's terminals linked together. When the connector is inserted inserted into the fusebox the right way round, the linked terminals apply power to the interior light fuse on the fusebox. When the connector is inserted the other way round, the power supply to the fuse is open circuit.

Jacob Lambert must have had an XD Elantra though because the J2 didn't have that type of transport connector.
I'm on a streak...two out of the last three were buggered up. I'm batting 660 lately...should I strive for 750? >:D
Will find out on my next......stab in the dark.....
 

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A fuse was blown under the hood. That fixed the radio, clock and dome light.

When I went to check the fuses, my headlights and window wouldn't work. I checked all fuses inside and out. Would the headlights and windows possibly be a relay switch?
 

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It was another fuse, or rather, lack of. The fuse had been removed. Thank you, AUTOSPARK. And yes, it was both high and low.
 
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