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Discussion Starter #1
Driving down the road and smelled burnt electrical.... car started to run warm and A/C quit working.... notice fan not working and had to drive with heat/fan on high to keep engine safe.

Fan hotwired with 12v spins fine.
Relays work fine.
Fuses all test good.

Anyone know how to test the fan resistor?

What else triggers the fan or can prevent it from turning on?

BTW, no codes stored, active, or pending.

Does the fan and dash gauge use the same temp sender/switch, or is there another one?
 

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The computer will ground the fan relay when the engine temperature is at 220. If the fan works with 12volts applied don't worry about the resistor.
 

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Sometimes if you disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor
Then the fans might turn on
If it does then ECT sensor is suspect
Otherwise, I suspect that there is a short in the wiring
Which would require a little skill in how to find the short.
This is why auto electricians get paid ... for their experience and expertise.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wiring isn't an issue. Will be testing the sensor today. Have limited time to work on vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It ended up being the radiator fan. When connected to battery, it would spin up pretty good so I didn't run it for more than 10 seconds. I still need my fingers.

When disconnecting the engine coolant sensor, which requires more patience or beer, the fan would come on and then vary speeds or quit all together. Repeat and there is the electrical smell. Fan needed about a minute to completely quit and would work when cool again.

Salvage yard fan is in and working fine. Now need to figure out why the AC won't work. Wondering if it self-destructed from heat when nothing was blowing over the condenser. Could only imagine what hot refrigerant would do when travelling around the full AC system. No more time to troubleshoot but car is driving again without overheating.

Engine sounds a little worse now than before. Might be exercising that 10/120k early. Was hoping to let it break next year before class action warranty expires. No noticeable coolant in oil or oil in coolant. Not sure if engine is worth $30 UOA to see if head gasket blew. I'll know after a few commutes and long rides.
 

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Well, that is good news. You figured it out by letting the fan run?
What luck!!!
Now, it is just the AC that doesn't work.
Would put a gas pressure gauge on it to see if there is any refrigerant in the system.
If there is enough refrigerant in the system then check to see
If the AC clutch on the compressor is turning on when you turn on the AC.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No A/C clutch since its variable compressor with solenoid about a year old
 

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Your AC system didn't go bad because of the fan. I would want to see what the pressures are doing.
 

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AC definitely went bad because of the fan. AC system overheated and more than likely went over pressure. Not sure if ECU can shut down A/C when over pressure or if there is some type of rupture disk or high pressure safety pop-off relief valve. I can only hope that the r134a didn't force its way past all the seals and that the compressor blow-off valve is self closing/sealing. Was able to put a full 18 ounces of refrigerant in the system today. Had a pretty decent oil coating on the undercarriage belly pan/tray and can only hope that it was refrigerant oil. Now will have to monitor the AC for leaks and hope the runaway pressure/heat didn't damage anything else.

So, that failed radiator fan failure can cascade into multiple issues.

Still don't see any oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. And, Its not over-pressuring the radiator which is hopeful that the head gasket is still intact.
 

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If the pressure switches are in working order the system will turn off compressor when it needs to. If they are not working it may build pressure until the blow off starts talking. The system is always, building pressure, turning off compressor, build pressure again, etc. It does this all the time regardless.
The only thing that happens when the fan quits is it will not get rid of all the heat and therefore it will not cool correctly.
 

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Sometimes if you disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor
Then the fans might turn on
If it does then ECT sensor is suspect
Otherwise, I suspect that there is a short in the wiring
Which would require a little skill in how to find the short.
This is why auto electricians get paid ... for their experience and expertise.
The fan on my 2012 2.0t is always running at low speed, I down loaded the service manual that 12tony posted but I cannot find a diagram for the fan wireing, Does anyone know were in the manual I can find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The fan on my 2012 2.0t is always running at low speed, I down loaded the service manual that 12tony posted but I cannot find a diagram for the fan wireing, Does anyone know were in the manual I can find it.
Change the coolant, thermostat, radiator cap, and temp sender.
Could be stuck relay and easy enough to swap with another.

If the a/c or defroster is on, the fan will run.
 
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