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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. I'm looking to buy a new Accent, likely a manual hatchback. I've searched around on the net and on these forums, but still have some leftover questions I'm not finding answers for. Hopefully you guys can help me out.

Basically, I'm very tall, about 6'7". I'm considering the Accent because I've heard it has very good headroom for a compact. I have yet to sit in one, but it has very similar dimensions to the Mitsubishi Lancer, which I have tried out. The Lancer had enough headroom, but the legroom was bearable, at best. That said, I understand that the measurements you find online are from floor to ceiling, not seat to ceiling, so who knows.

My question is, how hard and expensive is it to move the seat rails back? Are there any safety concerns with doing this (airbags, seatbelt)? How far back could you move it? In all cars I've tried my knees are jammed up to either side of the wheel. That's part of why I've never bothered owning a car before. I could easily move the seat back 6" and comfortably reach the pedals, maybe more. Assuming this is feasible, that could fix the legroom problem, but if it turns out the headroom isn't good, is there any way to lower the seat or should I start looking at other cars?

I'd rather have a mechanic do it for me, as I have no experience with cars pretty much. I am a very hands-on guy and I plan to start modding and getting to know whatever vehicle I end up buying, but I'm not going to do something that involves structural work and safety issues on my first day. I plan to up the audio system and replace the radio with a custom in-dash computer (I'm a computer tech by trade) before I even start looking at the mechanical aspects of the car.
 

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I have actually looked into this myself. I am only 6'3" but I have long legs. This could be done, but I couldnt figure out a way to do it without a welder.
You would have to cut and reposition the mounting tabs on the front and rear of the seat rails. In the rear, I think you might have to cut the mount out of the floor and move it rearward and reweld it to the floor. I dont think it would be alot of welding, but I cant weld. So I would have to have someone else take care of this for me.
 

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You might also have a concern with the steering wheel not coming out far enough for your taste even if you did that, I don't know? I'm 6'2" and there's plenty of headroom in these your right, I don't even quite keep the seat back all the way, one reason being the steering wouldn't be comfortable to handle. My arms have a fairly good reach, but not really long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've made a few calls. It sounds like its a very bad idea to move the bottom half of the seat track as, according to the dealer, that area of the floor is specifically reinforced and moving it would be a major safety issue. Can anyone confirm this?

fonque, can you take out (unbolt) the seat track without welding? I'm making some inquiries to shops around town (Vancouver) to see if anyone can custom fab a replacement set of tracks that are longer. I think this would be the best, if not cheapest, solution.

If I can't find a place or the price is too high, I may also look at moving the top half of the track. Perhaps it can be rebolted farther forward on the seat just by drilling new holes in the track? If so, all I would need is access to a drill press for a few minutes.
 

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If you looks at the seat track, the brackets are welded under the track itself. It should be fairly easy to lenghten the front bracket and move the rear one accordingly without modifying the floor pan. You might need to reinforce the tracks/brackets because you'll be moving the weight rearwards directly on the rear bracket.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's great info, thanks guys.

I was concerned about welding the floor of car. If I can keep any modifications to the tracks themselves, which looks possible, I won't be ruining anything. Now to look into how much a spare set of tracks to mess around with is. That way I can not worry about wrecking the car, and I can keep the stock ones for if I ever decide to sell it.

I'm still kind of undecided as to what car to get. It's either a Lancer or an Accent, and this puts a lot of points onto the Accent's side. Now to convince myself that I don't need the extra horse the Lancer has. My friend has an Impreza WRX and I love the pickup in that thing. Kind of weary of getting a car with less than half the power of that, but then I haven't really heard any complaints about lack of power in the stick Accent. People seem to say the auto one kind of blows for accel though. Guess I'll find out on the test drive.

BTW, where is that diagram from? I was looking for something exactly like that but couldn't seem to find anything.
 

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QUOTE (ReK_ @ Jul 17 2010, 05:32 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=342425
That's great info, thanks guys.

I was concerned about welding the floor of car. If I can keep any modifications to the tracks themselves, which looks possible, I won't be ruining anything. Now to look into how much a spare set of tracks to mess around with is. That way I can not worry about wrecking the car, and I can keep the stock ones for if I ever decide to sell it.

I'm still kind of undecided as to what car to get. It's either a Lancer or an Accent, and this puts a lot of points onto the Accent's side. Now to convince myself that I don't need the extra horse the Lancer has. My friend has an Impreza WRX and I love the pickup in that thing. Kind of weary of getting a car with less than half the power of that, but then I haven't really heard any complaints about lack of power in the stick Accent. People seem to say the auto one kind of blows for accel though. Guess I'll find out on the test drive.

BTW, where is that diagram from? I was looking for something exactly like that but couldn't seem to find anything.
Well, coming from a 180hp AWD car to an Accent, I can relate. The Accent is slow but makes up in other ways. It's not painfully slow like my old 1991 52hp 1.6l diesel Golf was but you won't win any drag races except against garbage trucks and Priuses. Most people that have been in my car have been impressed by the handling and ride. Some even said it was faster than they though it was. It's not dangerously slow like some people think (usually these people think anything with less than 250hp is underpowered...). I've never had an issue with passing or merging. It has ample power to scoot around town effortlessly. The only time I felt the need for more power is on the highway when things get hilly.

There are a few things you can do to make the engine a bit more resposive. Most of them are free too. First is to properly adjust the throttle cable. For some reason, there's quite a bt of play in the throttle cable from the factory. Second is to remove the intake tube that goes from the airbox to the rad support. It's restrictive. The engine will have a bit more pep down low and won't sound like a sewing machine at WOT anymore. Third is to do the coolant bypass on the throttle body. There's a DIY on the forum for that. All these shouldn't take more than one or two hours and will make things a bit better.

IMO, it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow.

Oh and if you get one, a light set of wheels and good tires will make a HUGE difference on the handling and braking. The stock tires really suck.

One last thing, hyundai placed 7th in JD Power's 2010 initial quality study and the Accent went from 3rd best subcompact in 2007-2008 to 2nd in 2009 and first in 2010 while mitsubishi is at the very bottom (32nd out of 33).

 

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QUOTE (ReK_ @ Jul 17 2010, 05:32 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=342425
BTW, where is that diagram from? I was looking for something exactly like that but couldn't seem to find anything.
Diagram is from HMAservice.com. It's free to register and has everything you could ever need to fix any Hyundai sold in north america. As far as I know, Hyundai is the only manufacturer to offer this kind of service for free.
 

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QUOTE (bloodninja @ Jul 17 2010, 12:49 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=342495
Also, for pete's sake, get the 5-speed manual. The 4-speed automatic is unbearably slow and the shift logic is awful. The 5-speed manual is paired well to the car.
X infinity + 11

Subcompacts are meant to be driven with a manual. It never even stroked my mind to buy an automatic. Unless you drive in HEAVY traffic, I just don't see why one would buy an auto.
 

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If it's truly down to extra power for Lancer vs Accent, keep in mind that the Lancer is heavier than the Accent. My buddy used to have an older Ralliart Lancer and even though it had more power than my Accent, we were more or less equal. Of course, now he bought himself an Evo VIII... :D

And yes, manual only. The difference between the manual/auto Accents is unreal. I drove an auto Accent of our generation and was amazed at how slow it felt in comparison to my manual. Though I will say that even with the manual, our first gear is the most gutless gear I've seen in a manual in a long time. Just no real power in it at any point throughout the gear.
 
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