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Discussion Starter #1
hello all im wondering has anyone installed a big break kit on their SM santa fe? I've got a 2006 I would like to get better breaking performance over stock i often have to carry a fair amount of tools in the back for work that tends to make it longer to stop not by a whole lot but longer then unladen any ideas welcome
 

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From personal experience I've had good luck with Powerstop's brake kit that includes ceramic pads and cross-drilled/slotted rotors (they even have a kit that includes new calipers). Now...I haven't installed the kit on my Santa Fe yet, but I did on my buddy's Mazda Miata. The difference vs. stock was very noticeable. You must follow their break-in procedure however.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do you have a link? I was considering something along the lines of a breambo style caliper like willwood, cika or what ever lol never used power stop before i assume they are oe style caliper or no?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I know cika makes one for most hyundai models like the Tucson do you know if the santa fe and Tucson share their breaks? Like they do for many other parts
 

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I would like to share my experience with 2010 Santa Fe (120Kmiles) and Tucson (70Kmiles). Both vehicles got sever duty (tin coated) calipers, rotors, stock pads on Santa Fe and Power stop Ceramic on Tucson. The biggest difference I noticed in brake feel was flushing the brake like with new Dot 4 fluids My girls find the Tucson brakes were too touchy, minor application of brakes immediately halts the car. The Santa Fe also have improved brake feel but is less touchy. The sever duty (Tin Coating) keep the brakes and rotors shiny bright with no rusts. The Northwest is starting to salt the roads, ...therefore keeping the brakes from rusting inspires confidence. The Tucson, Santa Fe and Sonata Hybrid were in the Hyundai reliability upgrade at 60kmile brake job, with included the coated brake rotors and calipers. Two of the cars had prepurchased 6yrs, 60Kmile service plan. The Santa Fe received the same brake upgrade but at normal brake job cost. I upgraded the front pads on the Tucson and had the brakes flushed on on three cars this year. Hope the comment help. Best Regards n LUV.
 

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Condense version of above post. Changing the brake fluids with a complete flush of new Dot 4 fluid made the brake feel much more firm, ...than changing the pads, rotors and calipers.
 

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Brake fluids should be changed every 3-5 yrs. The brake fluid can absorb moisture from air. This cause small steam to form in the brake line, causing the brakes to feel mushy. It’s been over 3 yrs when I changed the brake fluid. Now they feel very firm, ...even with stock brake pads.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did do the fluid flush it helped substantially (woke the breaks up big time) but they still don't have the grunt im looking for or am I being picky i live in an area ware road salt is really heavily used so thats a thing lol rite now I have stainless rotors (were way better then stock) and semi ceramic pads it works well but still doesn't seem to stop like I would like (have electric break controller for the trailer) the trailer is well below the max towing for the vehicle but I put the electric breaks on it to help but still it seems a bit long to stop i heard that steel braded flex lines help alot too any thoughts there?
 

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Hi Da-Sarge, It is very difficult to get brake performance much better than stock. It is possible to delay the onset of brake fade, but it is because modern cars have “Anti-lock” and Hyundai have “Traction Control”. Also you have rubber isolation in the suspension, with anti-dive geometry and non-adjustable shocks.

To get racing performance brakes, too many non-recommended modifications must be done.

1). Light weight wheels and tires give the most performance in braking. Stock brakes can easilly lock the stock tires. Summer performance tires and light weight forged wheels can give you better braking performance but, ... it will cause havoc with Anti-lock, Traction Control, anti-dive equipped rubber suspension components and cause bottoming the shocks. The rubber suspension pieces will deform and typically cause toe-out condition under braking. This is the opposite of what you want if you are racing and diving into a corner. EST. Costs $3,000+

2). Second item to modify willl be fully adjustable (compression and rebound) shocks. You will need to increase the compression setting which will make your road ride harsh. With these mods, ...the rubber suspension components will yield and cause your tires to toe-out in braking. Fully Adjustable shocks, Multi-rate springs and Adjustable sway bars will set you back $3,500+.

3). Thirdly you will then have to change your suspension components to solid spherical joints to maintain control. You need to know a great suspension tuner. &$5,00+

3). Forth, you will need to (very not recommended) modification, ...get into your computer to disable the Anti-lock, Traction Control and install a tuneable manual brake bias valve.

All these mods will set you back $15K to $30K with the knowledge of a great mechanic, ...like Mike Kojima MOTOIQ or Stephen Popodopolus at Popodopolus Racing.

Must less work and cost effective would be to purchase the Hyundai N-sport with Brimbo Brakes, Turbo-engine, gummy tires, great suspension (tuned by former BMW M director and Lotus) and great transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Now thats full on race spec lol I got my R34 GTR for that stuff lol im just looking for a bit beefier breaks to handel the load of tools in the back a bit better lol as well as the trailer
 

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Hello Da-Sarge, How to identify silly DIY mechanic putting gummy tires and big brakes without all the suspension mods, ... driving hard? YouTube. See car street racing, braking hard into the corner, the front dives, the wheels are nearly full lock to over-come the understeer (from rubber bushing deforming, insufficient camber, not enough compression in shock, not enough spring force, not enough sway-bar), ..as the car exits the corner, it over-steer into the inside corner. Spinning the car. So that’s what rubber suspension unloading and causing over-steer exiting a corner looks like. If you drive your GTR hard, after 2 seasons of road racing, you will have to change out your rubber suspension pieces, shocks, etc.. Or I will see another GTR rotate into the inside corner and spin-out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The breaking isn't for high performance driving in the santafes case as for my GTR its got poly bushings and coil overs and getting sway bars upgraded very soon for my fanta fe I need the bigger breaks for the extra load by the tools I need to carry as well as the trailer I have rear airbags coming to also help with load leveling
 
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