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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on pulling both the engine and transmission together? I know that both the block and transmission are aluminum which is what concerns me. The only thing I can think is if I use my load leveler and attach one of the chains to the transmission as well but I cannot find a lift point on there for support that I feel will support the weight unless I go with the mounting point where the transmission mount bolts to. I'm pulling them out through the top which makes it even more fun. The front bumper, radiator, and plastic cowling will all be removed to give me the most room. It just concerns me since I have to go down to go up so the transmission will clear the mount under the battery tray. That's the point in which the transmission will need to have something attached for support. The last thing I want is to rip out the threads from the block to attach the bell housing to the block.

And yes, there will be a build thread for what I'm planning :cool:.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Please share info for future reference
I'm going to use the factory transmission mounting hole. I just bent a piece of 1/8" steel that I had and bent it to a 45 degree angle so it will fit down in the area where it's mounted. I'll just bolt it to the transmission and torque it to factory specs for the transmission mount and crank away! :D
 

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We drop them as an assembly out the bottom in a bit over an hr or so.. but of course we have chassis on a rack, dump front sub-frame, set engine/trans assembly on a table and raise car up..

Why we removing engine ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
We drop them as an assembly out the bottom in a bit over an hr or so.. but of course we have chassis on a rack, dump front sub-frame, set engine/trans assembly on a table and raise car up..

Why we removing engine ?
I'd love to do it that way but I don't have a way to remove the engine from. Do you know if these engines/transmissions have any special way of being centered once they are back in?

I'm pulling it out since I'm getting my engine bay shaved and painted to match the exterior.
 

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Put it back on the mounts and call it a day..
 

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:lurk:
 

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+1 :lurk: Save me a front row seat for the Feature. I'll bring the adult beverages. :beer: Knowing Gamerguy, he'll start the show with one of those classic cartoons we all know and love. "Action!"
 

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That's a lot of work just to paint the engine bay, will you remember where to connect all the wires and tubes afterward? it's the kind of job when you're done and you see 3 or 4 bolts left on the table.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's a lot of work just to paint the engine bay, will you remember where to connect all the wires and tubes afterward? it's the kind of job when you're done and you see 3 or 4 bolts left on the table.
Yeah but I can't stand how the bay looks right now. I've done this before with other cars so it should be pretty easy :cool:.
 

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... and a couple of gaskets, and a washer, and a funny thing you never saw before but it looks important...
I was always under the impression that a couple of bolts, washers, whatever, laying around afterwards was confirmation that the repair is "better than new." I may be mistaken, Don.
 

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... and a couple of gaskets, and a washer, and a funny thing you never saw before but it looks important...
or when you're ready to put back the last piece you drop a bolt or something small inside the engine and you must disassemble it again or worst, you first start the engine and it refuses to start LOL seriously, in the past I did it too, I replaced a 318 V8 in my 1977 Dodge Aspen (my very first car) for a Slant-6 engine. (Rich must know what I'm talking about) That engine was more powerful then the V8 it had before and it was indestructible. But those engine were easy to swap because the technology at that time was simple, less wires and tubes and electronics, there was plenty of space in the engine bay.
 

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or when you're ready to put back the last piece you drop a bolt or something small inside the engine and you must disassemble it again or worst, you first start the engine and it refuses to start LOL seriously, in the past I did it too, I replaced a 318 V8 in my 1977 Dodge Aspen (my very first car) for a Slant-6 engine. (Rich must know what I'm talking about) That engine was more powerful then the V8 it had before and it was indestructible. But those engine were easy to swap because the technology at that time was simple, less wires and tubes and electronics, there was plenty of space in the engine bay.
Had a "hand-me-down" '64 Dodge Dart, 4 door ****box with a Slant 6 engine, "3 on the tree" manual tranny. I do believe that engine would have ran on potato salad if I could have found the correct jets to put in the one-barrel carb. But when the drive gear on the distributor coming off the cam shattered in 1975? Strange watching the engine turn over and the rotor bug sitting up there doing nothing...like it's on a lunch break.

The gear was PLASTIC. Well, nylon, I suppose. Shattered. A 1964 production model, mind you! Chrysler was using "nylon" gears held on the shaft with a slotted spring pin way back then? On a component that was critical to an engine's performance? Long story short, the parts counter guy told me, "Yeah, we order a lot of these!" I'll bet that statement was accurate.
 

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I remember seeing nylon gears in older engines, surprising, was it to reduce weight? go figure, like you say it's a critical component. I must have been lucky because mine has been a tough engine. I have beaten this car until the tranny died but the engine was still OK.
 

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On my last car a Ford Taurus I dropped it out the bottom and just used an engine crane to lift the body up over the engine trans hubs and all. You can also do it using some floor jacks too.

Basically get a dolly that will take the weight. Take off the tires and loosen the struts. Disconnect the wiring and hoses. Take the compressor off and tie it out of the way. Disconnect the exhaust somewhere.

Then lower it onto the dolly, remove the subframe to body bolts, the lift the body up.





 

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^^^ This, kids, is why your Uncle Rich gave up playing mechanic. I now get satisfaction from removing/reinstalling the oil dip stick. Afterwards, light up a cigarette and bathe in the afterglow for a few minutes. :cigareta:
 
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