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2006 Sonata GLS 2.4 L
at 71K lost A/C compressor
Cost to Diagnose at delaer $160 + tax
Cost to Diagnose at Pepboys $44 + tax
So went with Pep Boys; however they want $1300+ ($850 for Compressor, $144 for labor, $166 for recharging the + Tax and some shop fees).
Dealer said $354 for reman. compressor + $360 for recharge + Tax. Still didn't get it fixed.
Saw the compressor on-line for $288 with shipping and tax.
 

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500 Posts
Year, Engine and model: 2007, 3.3, Limited
Mileage: 78K -fixed at 83:
Problem/Issue: Rattling while idle goten louder
Fix: Dealer replaced flex plate (transmission issue)
Approximate: I would assume expensive, however was covered by warranty.
Notes: No issue with claiming this as a power train warranty issue
 

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2006, 3.3 v6 GLS
Mileage 63,000
Problem/Issued: loud rattling at idle that progressed into rattling through first gear
Fix: Loose bolts on Flex plate
Approximate: dealer wanted $1,200 found shop to do it for $600 (part cost $180)
Notes: One can do it themselves however VERY labor intensive.
 

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2006, 3.3 v6 GLS
Mileage 63,000
Problem/Issued: loud rattling at idle that progressed into rattling through first gear
Fix: Loose bolts on Flex plate
Approximate: dealer wanted $1,200 found shop to do it for $600 (part cost $180)
Notes: One can do it themselves however VERY labor intensive.
It wasn't covered??
 

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Loose bolts...

2006, 3.3 v6 GLS
Mileage 63,000
Problem/Issued: loud rattling at idle that progressed into rattling through first gear
Fix: Loose bolts on Flex plate
Approximate: dealer wanted $1,200 found shop to do it for $600 (part cost $180)
Notes: One can do it themselves however VERY labor intensive.
Fire_Ant, were the bolts loose at the crank or the torque convertor? Did they just need tightening or replacement of the plate, torque convertor? Inquiring minds... Thanks for your time.
 

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Fire_Ant, were the bolts loose at the crank or the torque convertor? Did they just need tightening or replacement of the plate, torque convertor? Inquiring minds... Thanks for your time.
Bolts were loose, plate, bolts, and converter were replaced due to damage.
 

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ITS URGENT REPLY
hi dear i have hyundai sonata i changed ECU now i am unable to find VIN of new one computer i just purchased ECU but unable to programe new key ..... can any one tell me how to find VIN number from ECU

my ECU informations is

NFD8FOCG6A
SIEMENS VDO5WY4800A
INDEX 07 SIM2K__140 0 39104-25700
K 04.11.075 0305 MADE IN KOREA
 

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2006 Sonata V6
About 120K miles
Problem: Driver's window stuck down, motor noise but no movement
Fix: Installed new window regulator
Cost: $65 for the new part
Notes: Wire jumped off gear and got tangled in mechanism. It was a fairly labor intensive job to get the old one pulled out because I did not have prior experience with it. New one went in with little issue. From what I've read, I saved quite a bit doing this myself.
 

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2006, 3.3 v6 GLS
Mileage 105,000
Problem/Issued: Shake in steering, slight play in wheel when centered, three months into those problems noticed click on front passenger side. Inspection showed cv shaft pass side needed to be replaced.
Approximate: dealer wanted $937 (12 month warranty on defects included), found remanufactured OEM shaft assembly at O'reillys for $73.00 (includes lifetime warranty, you have to turn in old broken shaft)
Notes: removing Tie rods and suspension was easy however there is a support shaft that mounts to the Engine that took 4 plus hours to remove and re-install. I will be putting a how-to guide on the webpage.
 

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Year, Engine and model: (2008, 3.3 V6 - purchased as a Certified Pre-owned vehicle December 2008)
Mileage at Which Problem Started: I have 60,500 miles on it and the problem started in Oct. 2012.

The sparks plugs on my 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited V6 have begun ingesting water when it rains causing the check engine light to come on. This causes the car to shake and sputter. The dealer has replaced the same spark plugs three times in the past 10 months and today I was informed the engine has significant corrosion to it. Initially the costs were covered under warranty, but that just ended. Now, I'm stuck paying the bill for Hyundai's incompetence. If this continues this is going to get expensive and quite redundant. To aggravate me more the service manager at the dealership had the audacity to suggest that I avoid driving in the rain to prevent further problems.

Has anyone else heard of this problem or had this problem themselves?
i had to fight to get my srs sytem fixed.
 

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2005 2.4l Elite
110870k
Just bought from dealer 2nd hand
Problems we have found
1. No sound coming from the speakers, blown amp fuse
Fix- replaced amp fuse

2. Driver side sun visor comes down on its own
Fix- dealer replacing it

3. Sometimes the doors dont lock/unlock, never all at once just usually the back left but on the odd occasion one of the front doors will not unlock on first push of the button on the key.
Fix- Not sure what actual part needs replacing, HELP PLEASE!

4. Not really a manufacturer problem but we have 3 car seats in the back, the left and right are boosters and its hard to fit a hand down between to connect seatbelt.
Fix- 2 seatbelt extenders $25 each

All that aside it is a great car, the wife loves it.
 

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Ucantcme regarding item number 3 your lock actuators need to be replaced. I don't know the part number off hand. I'd start with the back left as this one sounds like it is on it's way out.
Someone did a how to here with pics and instructions. Not sure where iot is but it's here somewhere. :)
 

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2007 Sonata 3.3 V6 GLS (CDN model equivalent to Limited)

Problem #1 - resolved
Mileage: 74k km (46K miles)
Problem: Passenger's sun visor seized
Fix: Replaced passenger's sun visor (DIY)
Cost: $40-50 for the part (ebay)
Notes: Very easy install

Problem #2 - resolved (not permanent)
Mileage: 74k km (46K miles)
Problem: Sunroof creaking when turning car
Fix: Applied thin layer of dielectric grease to rubber stripping around sunroof. Not a permanent fix, usually have to be applied every 9-12 months as the creaking comes back.
Cost: $2-3?

Problem #3 - resolved
Mileage: 95k km (60K miles)
Problem: Oil leaked into alternator. Dealer checked and confirmed timing cover leak
Fix: Dealer replaced timing cover and valve cover gaskets under warranty
Cost: Free (warranty) - otherwise, about $2000 from what the dealer quoted?

Problem #4 - resolved (mostly)
Mileage: 95k km (60K miles)
Problem: Intermittent squealing noise (almost sounds like metal-on-metal) when A/C is engaged.
Fix: Dealer replaced belt, idler pulley, tensioner and blower motor - did not fix issue. Turned out the A/C system required a recharge to re-lubricate the internals - this removed about 90% of the noise. Dealer commented this is most likely a design issue with the expansion valve (which is known to make these ligh metal-on-metal squealing nosie)
Cost: Belt ($60), others are free (warranty)

Problem #5 - not resolved yet
Mileage: 95k km (60K miles)
Problem: Light mis-fire or engine ping when engaging the accelerator pedal at speed (usually around the 40-50 km/h range and around 110-120 km/h range)
Fix: Not fixed yet, but dealer advised engine has carbon deposit and I should use top grade fuel system cleaner (i.e. Chevron Techron) to flush it out. Dealer also did a fuel induction service which included cleaning the throttle body. Noticed slight improvement but problem still there. Other mechanical opinions indicate I might have a lean fuel mixture when engaging the accelerator - may require ECU remap?
Cost: Chevron Techron (about $9), Fuel Induction Service ($140)

Problem #6 - not resolved yet
Mileage: 102k km (63K miles)
Problem: Hard right and left turns (usually more than 90 degrees of turn), I hear a rotational metal grinding noise from the front left wheel area but only when accelerating through the turn (i.e. if I go off the gas, the sound is not there). I also get a clunk when shifting from Park to Drive and vice versa from the same area (front left wheel) - not sure if this is the same issue
Fix: No fix yet
Cost: ?

Other than that, the car has been rock solid. So minor interior rattles here and there (especially around C-Pillar) which is solved through usage of foam tapes.
 

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Cheers Craigbrooks, I did have a look at that how to with the pics, seems like a fun job. will have a crack at it once the new actuators arrive.
 

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Year, Engine and model - 2010 I4 GLS
Current mileage: 31K

Mileage at Which Problem Started - 15K
Problem/Issue - Oil pan thread stripped, discovered by a new dealer during oil change.
Fix - Replace oil pan. Dealer hesitated to submit claim to HMA since it seemed it was other dealer's screw up but in the end fixed under warranty
Approximate $$ Cost - $0

Mileage at Which Problem Started - 25K
Problem/Issue - Door handle mechanism broken
Fix - Dealer replaced the mechanism under warranty
Approximate $$ Cost - $0

Mileage at Which Problem Started - 27K
Problem/Issue - Broken inner fender / fender liner
Fix - Replace fender liner.
Approximate $$ Cost - $46 : $16 parts + $30 labor

Mileage at Which Problem Started - 28K
Problem/Issue - Broken wheel stud (front right)
Fix - Replace the stud broken when putting winter tires on. Cut dust shield so that did not need to replace the hub. Head of the stud was 2mm to thick so had to be shaven.
Approximate $$ Cost - $1.80

Mileage at Which Problem Started - 30K
Problem/Issue - Noise from front, passenger side wheel
Fix - Replace the hub, under warranty
Approximate $$ Cost - $0
 

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Update:
Problem #6 - not resolved yet
Mileage: 102k km (63K miles)
Problem: Hard right and left turns (usually more than 90 degrees of turn), I hear a rotational metal grinding noise from the front left wheel area but only when accelerating through the turn (i.e. if I go off the gas, the sound is not there). I also get a clunk when shifting from Park to Drive and vice versa from the same area (front left wheel) - not sure if this is the same issue. UPDATE: The rotational grind eventually turned into a very evident clicking sound when accelerating through turns
Fix: Replaced front left CV joint and half axle. This eliminated the click noise as well as the clunk / click shifting from park to drive to reverse and vice-versa.
Cost: $380 CDN for re-manufactured CV joint / axle and labour
 

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Problem #7 - resolved
Mileage: 104k km (65K miles)
Problem: Brake line ruptured after 7 years / 104,000 km. Noticed brake pedal went down to the floor when pressed. Brake fluid reservoir was empty. Diagnosed by pumping brakes and adding filling reservoir, noticed a puddle of brake fluid forming on the ground just underneath the area between the left front and rear seats. Mechanic checked and noticed the brake line ruptured due to corrosion - the section where a plastic / metal bracket holds the brake and gas lines in place. Mechanic deduced the design of this bracket unintentionally traps salt and moisture which caused corrosion to both lines. Also mentioned the brake line seems to be made from a different metal than the gas line and the corrosion was much more severe on the brake line.
Fix: Spliced new stainless steel line to bypass ruptured brake line section. Full brake flush and applied undercoating on both lines. Brake as good as new now.
Cost: $400 CDN for labour and parts, full brake flush, rustproof application on lines
 
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