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Problem At Hyundai Accent 2001 - Automatic Transmission

10K views 92 replies 6 participants last post by  Joker_Card 
#1 ·
Hello. I have a Hyundai Accent, 2001 with 640,000 km (stayed with our family due to an emotional connection). Two months ago I changed gear oil (full replacement) + filter.
When I lowered the carter, there were some pieces of iron caught in the magnets.
Two weeks ago I did a 200km ride and after 100km a light bulb came on.
After I got home, I scanned and came up with 2 codes:
p1529
p0734
When the lamp was lit, a 'knock' was killed in the vehicle.

Also, fuel consumption increased (was a liter to 13 km, now a liter to 10 km) and in addition
I have noise when I press the gas pedal (when I do not press the noise disappears), attached is a video:







(In the garage, they offered to dismantle the dashboard at a cost of $ 600, without committing that they would solve the problem. A catalytic converter was replaced two months ago to renew, so the noise is not related to the converter either.)

I reset faults two weeks ago, and since then they have not returned, but the question is what to do.












 
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#71 ·
On the wiring ... it appears ... the output shaft speed sensor's wiring leaves the back of the connector (as it should) and enters its sleeve, but is connected to shield ground. The A/C signals are shielded (to ground). The i/p sensor's wiring appears to have been removed from its sleeve (now gone), and appears to be entering the loom where its shield wiring connections would be.
After a few dozen more kilometers, I think there is no escape from replacing/overhauling the gearbox. But before I do so, I would like to consult with you.
The car now has 682,000 km on it. While driving on the highway a few weeks ago, when I was going about 80 km/h, there was a 'grunting' sound like the car was in idle, ie, like I was pressing the gas pedal in idle. Little by little, the vehicle's speed dropped to around 30-40 km/h, and the 'check engine' light came on, I stopped on the side of the road, connected a fault scanner and there were several faults: P0732, P0734, P1529. I continued to drive like this for 50 km to get to the house, on A speed of 40 km/h.. and when I tried to park I found out that there is no reverse gear either, simply nothing happens when you move the gear stick to the letter R.
Is there a way to tell if the fault is an electrical fault or a mechanical fault? I would be happy for help in any direction.. I love the car and want to get a million km with it..
 
#74 ·
It appears the kickdown is not working (or not working fully), amongst other likely issues (did you ever fix the PG wiring). Also, with the car running but not moving and with your foot on the brake (and the e-brake not applied), put the gear selector in "L", then come off the brake pedal and do Not give any gas. What happens? Then, repeat that (and come off the brake pedal) but this time accelerate normally (in "L"). What happens?
 
#80 ·
Yes, those are the PG wires. As previously mentioned, those are supposed to be shielded (and not exposed and not able to touch each other and not able to touch metal).

The L test results are good (ruling out the low part of the low and reverse clutch sub-system). So, assuming your TRS is properly signaling when you place the gear shift lever into R(everse) [test it to be sure it is], the common denominator across your current issues appears to be the kickdown sub-system. I suspect the band and/or drum are too worn, but it appears the piston appears to be working (trying to drive the band). So, to answer your original question, most likely mechanical (plus your wiring issues, but the wiring isn't totally at fault because otherwise you'd be having other incorrect gear ratios reported).
 
#81 ·
Yes, those are the PG wires. As previously mentioned, those are supposed to be shielded (and not exposed and not able to touch each other and not able to touch metal).

The L test results are good (ruling out the low part of the low and reverse clutch sub-system). So, assuming your TRS is properly signaling when you place the gear shift lever into R(everse) [test it to be sure it is], the common denominator across your current issues appears to be the kickdown sub-system. I suspect the band and/or drum are too worn, but it appears the piston appears to be working (trying to drive the band). So, to answer your original question, most likely mechanical (plus your wiring issues, but the wiring isn't totally at fault because otherwise you'd be having other incorrect gear ratios reported).
The PG sensor wiring was covered with insulating tape, and I removed it to try to figure out why this bypass was done (I still don't), but I covered everything back up with new insulating tape. I don't know what TRS is, but when I move the shift lever to R nothing happens. Even if I press the gas pedal, it's like the car is in N. So in your opinion, the conclusion is that the fault is mechanical?
I am asking because I have an identical vehicle on my property, which had an accident in 2019 and I bought it for spare parts for my car, although the transmission there has done 250 thousand km, but I am wondering if it would be possible to disassemble the transmission from there and assemble it in my vehicle, and replace the The PG sensor (I have a new original), what do you say, is it a reasonable bet or a waste of time? It's just that in my country, the refurb quality is not good, and I don't feel like throwing 1000 dollars on a refurb that might not work... is the drum you're talking about probably worn out , is this something that can be changed at home or do you need special tools to mess with an automatic transmission? There is no part that I did not take care of in my car, except the transmission.. there I only changed the transmission fluid and transmission filter and the needle bearing of the third and fourth gears on the side..
 
#85 ·
Yes, that white light comes on. But when I think about it, maybe there really is some problem, because since the gear failure, I don't have a reverse camera. The multimedia system seems to enter the mode of displaying a reverse image, but there is no image. And before the malfunction in the gearbox, there was a picture, for sure.

 
#86 ·
There are dual (2) contacts in the TRS for R. The TRS is the transaxle range switch. It's in the center of your pic in your post #78. Its 11-pin connector is next to your index finger (in that pic). I can send the test procedures if you need them - after you chase down your camera wiring.
 
#87 ·
I checked the wiring of the car's reverse camera, it looks fine, and everything is connected therefore, I still have hope that the problem is electrical and not mechanical, and I am here to get any information and help from you that will help me fix the problem. So I would appreciate an explanation from you on how to check what you say and how to correct it. And if there is a fault there at 11 pins, what can be done? Is there a problem with any negative in the car? in the battery? Thank you!
 
#88 ·
Regarding the dual (2) contacts in the TRS for R ... the harness side of that connector is #'d 4-1, 8-5, 12-9, top row, middle row, bottom row, respectively - facing the connector (from the radiator). Carefully sewing-needle/alligator backprobe pin 2 and ground, with your multi-meter, and then start the car and let it run (ign ON). Then, check pin 7 and ground (still running). Then, check pin 8 and ground (still running) - WITH a helper putting the trans in R AND with him keeping his foot on the brake pedal and with the e-brake on. Then, check pin 11 and ground (still running) with trans in R - WITH a helper putting the trans in R AND with him keeping his foot on the brake pedal and with the e-brake on. Before doing the actual V measurements, ensure you have a good ground on your m-m (black) lead. Let us know what Vs ya get on each of these 4. If in doubt, repeat them to ensure valid data (and/or re-verify the ground).
 
#92 · (Edited)
#93 · (Edited)
gator your m-m's black lead to the bat (-) post (so it's secure and so you don't have to hold/fumble with it while doing the sewing-needle/gator'd backprobes of the pins
if you disconnect the connector, we won't be able to see the TRS's operation.
yes


also ...
View attachment 487431
If I don't disconnect the connector, how should I get to pin number 7?
 
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