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71 Posts
Thank you so much for your patience and great help.Thanks for trying to check on the parts that previously had been replaced.
Where do I find them? What is their location?Can you post a pic of the kickdown switch and the 2 bolts (see pic)?
And can you post a pick of the adjuster? (see pic).
Those might tell us a lot.
Sorry, it turns out my English is not that good, so I did not understand it. Too bad I did not see these pictures before I disassembled and assembled ..Actually, in post #25 I had said ...
And in post #43 I gave the part # 45612.
Where was O Ring supposed to be? I did that, isn 't it good?There should have been a small o-ring seal there. This is what seals the double end cover to the case for the critical flow INTO the end clutch retainer case.
If this o-ring is missing, that would explain 3rd and 4th gear issues. There would be pressure losses.
Related, did you see 1 or 2 steel balls inside the end clutch retainer assy when you had it apart for the clutches and discs and internal ring seals?
Did those balls get put back in their cubbies?
I saw these steel bullets, but I did not take them out or touch them.
I did not compare the 6 tabs to the 4 tabs, I assumed that what came with the kit was appropriate, so I did not check. I just assembled .. it seemed to me sat well.How well (snuggly) did the 6-tabs fit on the (lock-nut/input shaft) end? Did you compare that fitting with the 4-tab thrust cap?
So how can I assemble the new sensor? Should I carve the wires and adjust them as they did there? Because it is not enough to just connect the connector .. for some reason they carved the wires of the vehicle's electrical junction, and the wires of the speed sensor and connected them .. instead of just connecting the sensor to the connector ..Hyun had issues with the wire routing at the trans mount bracket (damaging the insulation and wires) and issued a TSB to re-position the wires. But, this assumed the issue was caught before the damage. The wire length was insufficient ... as were some other circuits on the car.
Must move the sensor under the chalk holder? Because I did not move the sensor under the chalk holder, but on its left side ..Yes, I would do this. The dual sensors come together and should have their new o-rings on the them. When you do this, CLEAN the area before removing the old sensors, ensure the old o-rings come out and do not fall into the trans, ensure the new sensors are the same as the old ones, and then position the wire-run (near the output shaft speed sensor - it is the one on top) on the firewall side of the trans mount bracket so it does Not get pinched as it runs underneath the bracket over to the input shaft speed sensor. There is scant length to do so, so it will require some finesse.
I did not touch the engine mount on the passenger side. I only disassembled the engine bracket on the driver's side. It was hard to get the top screws out, but I used a towel and played with it, most of the work I tried to keep the engine balanced and not get angled. I guess I touched the speed cable when I assembled the air filter housing ... Is repairing it simple? Is it possible to just buy such a new / second hand part and assemble? Maybe something just dropped out there? How can this be diagnosed? It's annoying to travel like this ..Did you loosen/remove the passenger's side top engine mount and wedge-up the engine there tilting the trans downward on an angle to be able to access and remove the top bolts on the double end cover? Or, were the top bolts (of the double end cover) accessible and removable without having to create space?
If the p's side top mount was not loosened/removed, then was the trans jack-supported level throughout the entire work ... or did the trans possibly shift angles during the work, damaging the spdo cable run/connection?