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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Thanks for trying to check on the parts that previously had been replaced.
Thank you so much for your patience and great help.

Can you post a pic of the kickdown switch and the 2 bolts (see pic)?
And can you post a pick of the adjuster? (see pic).
Those might tell us a lot.
Where do I find them? What is their location?

Actually, in post #25 I had said ...
And in post #43 I gave the part # 45612.
Sorry, it turns out my English is not that good, so I did not understand it. Too bad I did not see these pictures before I disassembled and assembled ..

There should have been a small o-ring seal there. This is what seals the double end cover to the case for the critical flow INTO the end clutch retainer case.

If this o-ring is missing, that would explain 3rd and 4th gear issues. There would be pressure losses.


Related, did you see 1 or 2 steel balls inside the end clutch retainer assy when you had it apart for the clutches and discs and internal ring seals?

Did those balls get put back in their cubbies?
Where was O Ring supposed to be? I did that, isn 't it good?

455052


I saw these steel bullets, but I did not take them out or touch them.

How well (snuggly) did the 6-tabs fit on the (lock-nut/input shaft) end? Did you compare that fitting with the 4-tab thrust cap?
I did not compare the 6 tabs to the 4 tabs, I assumed that what came with the kit was appropriate, so I did not check. I just assembled .. it seemed to me sat well.

Hyun had issues with the wire routing at the trans mount bracket (damaging the insulation and wires) and issued a TSB to re-position the wires. But, this assumed the issue was caught before the damage. The wire length was insufficient ... as were some other circuits on the car.
So how can I assemble the new sensor? Should I carve the wires and adjust them as they did there? Because it is not enough to just connect the connector .. for some reason they carved the wires of the vehicle's electrical junction, and the wires of the speed sensor and connected them .. instead of just connecting the sensor to the connector ..

Yes, I would do this. The dual sensors come together and should have their new o-rings on the them. When you do this, CLEAN the area before removing the old sensors, ensure the old o-rings come out and do not fall into the trans, ensure the new sensors are the same as the old ones, and then position the wire-run (near the output shaft speed sensor - it is the one on top) on the firewall side of the trans mount bracket so it does Not get pinched as it runs underneath the bracket over to the input shaft speed sensor. There is scant length to do so, so it will require some finesse.
Must move the sensor under the chalk holder? Because I did not move the sensor under the chalk holder, but on its left side ..

Did you loosen/remove the passenger's side top engine mount and wedge-up the engine there tilting the trans downward on an angle to be able to access and remove the top bolts on the double end cover? Or, were the top bolts (of the double end cover) accessible and removable without having to create space?

If the p's side top mount was not loosened/removed, then was the trans jack-supported level throughout the entire work ... or did the trans possibly shift angles during the work, damaging the spdo cable run/connection?
I did not touch the engine mount on the passenger side. I only disassembled the engine bracket on the driver's side. It was hard to get the top screws out, but I used a towel and played with it, most of the work I tried to keep the engine balanced and not get angled. I guess I touched the speed cable when I assembled the air filter housing ... Is repairing it simple? Is it possible to just buy such a new / second hand part and assemble? Maybe something just dropped out there? How can this be diagnosed? It's annoying to travel like this ..
 
You're welcome.

For the k/d switch pic, it's in the front, lower area (its outer side faces the radiator). What we want to see there is any evidence it was replaced. For its adjuster pic, it's on top of the trans next to the hose ports. What we want to see there is any evidence it was replaced or adjusted.

That was GOOD sealing around the o-ring hole - you left it open. That was right - and critical.

But, was the o-ring in the hole on the (corresponding) trans side? See pic. Did you see that o-ring? Was it there? Was in intact? That is what was supposed to be replaced.

455054


On the spliced wires, can't tell from the video. But, this is what the sensors and their connector should look like.

Toy Cable Wood Wire Heat-shrink tubing


I did not move the sensor under the chalk holder,
It's probably best you do Not move these now, not until you get the new sensors.

Must move the sensor under the chalk holder?
When you have the new sensors, you should be able to - and want to - route their wiring under the trans mount bracket without having to remove the bracket. Just follow the process I previously mentioned for the routing.

Is it possible to just buy such a new / second hand part and assemble
Yes. But, check the cable connection on the top of the trans where it screws in (and tabs into the internal pinion spdo driven gear) to see if the cable got cocked/angled/damaged/lifted and is now not tab'd correctly into the top of the internal pinion assy. You can't see the tab point (unless the cable is removed), but that's how it is driven. The cable should be straight and seated and snug as it enters the trans. But, the issue also could be elsewhere. Had you done anything with (removed) the instrument/gauge cluster? There is an adapter and a boss back in there (along with the spdo assy and switch). And, there are other possibilities as well (cluster PCB connection, failed needle bearing sherd having reached the drive and driven gear at the differential, etc).
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Okay, I did not realize I was supposed to replace this O-ring, and probably because the seller also did not provide it to me I did not notice that I did not replace anything. Anyway, I have no idea what her condition is, whether she was there and whether she is intact. To find out, you have to reopen everything, and it sucks.

As for the pictures of the switch, I hope I will find time on Friday to disassemble the filter housing etc. and have pictures with you. On the way I will also try to find out what happened there to the speedometer cable ...

I ordered a new, original Hyundai gear speed sensor. Scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Then on Friday I will dismantle the business there and you will have a video ..


I ordered a new, original Hyundai gear speed sensor. Scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Then on Friday I will dismantle the business there and you will have a video ..

I did not find the process you mentioned earlier for routing the sensor wiring under the bracket, I would be happy if you would enlighten my eyes again on the matter.

I'll tell you what, on the same occasion that I was dealing with the replacement of the needle bearing in chalk, I also replaced the starter of the vehicle since I sometimes had problems starting. Apparently while trying to unscrew his screws, I touched a speed cable ...

Anyway, on Friday I will know more, with them a video and I will send here ..
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
I did not unpack everything because it started to rain, but tell me if this video is clear enough. I wanted to show that probably 10 years ago they messed with the gear speed sensor and did a detour with the wires, do not know why. The question is how do I assemble the new sensor.

 
It's hard to say on the wires, without seeing the entirety of the runs and each of the trans's connectors. The apparent splices aren't making sense, because only one of the trans's devices has a ground wire. The rest do not.

There should be 4 wires for the trans's shaft's speed sensors - 2 per sensor.

Find the output shaft speed sensor (and its 2 wires) on the top of the trans ... and video from there to the connector that feeds the o/p shaft sensor ... and from that connector to the loom (that feeds the connector) ... and from the connector to the 2 (other) wires that run all the way to the input shaft speed sensor. Get all this on the same (uninterrupted flow) video.

Also, find the single wire coming out of the (circular) kickdown switch (looking up from under the removed splash shield) (see pic in post #60) ... and video that wire all the way to its connector ... and from that connector to the loom.

If these 2 videos (wire runs) check out okay, we'll come back and video the solenoids' runs.

On the spdo cable, as previously mentioned, the tab gets inserted down into the differential sleeve so the tab aligns with the corresponding slot, and then the knurled upper part (of the cable assy) gets screwed onto the top of the aluminum sleeve (threads). Once the tab is in position, just tighten the knurled nut part with a box wrench. Do not bend (break) the cable. Spdo working again, now?
 
Discussion starter · #67 ·
This is a video I shot for you yesterday, before I saw what you just wrote. I'm in a tough week of tests, so I'll try to break it all down and photograph things for you this weekend.



Hope I understood what all the things I am supposed to photograph ..
 
On the wiring ... it appears ... the output shaft speed sensor's wiring leaves the back of the connector (as it should) and enters its sleeve, but is connected to shield ground. The A/C signals are shielded (to ground). The i/p sensor's wiring appears to have been removed from its sleeve (now gone), and appears to be entering the loom where its shield wiring connections would be.
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
After almost a year, the vehicle is currently standing at about 655,000 km, the symptoms remain the same .. There is a noise of 'buzzing' in acceleration when pressing the gas, and disappears when leaving the gas.
 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
On the wiring ... it appears ... the output shaft speed sensor's wiring leaves the back of the connector (as it should) and enters its sleeve, but is connected to shield ground. The A/C signals are shielded (to ground). The i/p sensor's wiring appears to have been removed from its sleeve (now gone), and appears to be entering the loom where its shield wiring connections would be.
After a few dozen more kilometers, I think there is no escape from replacing/overhauling the gearbox. But before I do so, I would like to consult with you.
The car now has 682,000 km on it. While driving on the highway a few weeks ago, when I was going about 80 km/h, there was a 'grunting' sound like the car was in idle, ie, like I was pressing the gas pedal in idle. Little by little, the vehicle's speed dropped to around 30-40 km/h, and the 'check engine' light came on, I stopped on the side of the road, connected a fault scanner and there were several faults: P0732, P0734, P1529. I continued to drive like this for 50 km to get to the house, on A speed of 40 km/h.. and when I tried to park I found out that there is no reverse gear either, simply nothing happens when you move the gear stick to the letter R.
Is there a way to tell if the fault is an electrical fault or a mechanical fault? I would be happy for help in any direction.. I love the car and want to get a million km with it..
 
It appears the kickdown is not working (or not working fully), amongst other likely issues (did you ever fix the PG wiring). Also, with the car running but not moving and with your foot on the brake (and the e-brake not applied), put the gear selector in "L", then come off the brake pedal and do Not give any gas. What happens? Then, repeat that (and come off the brake pedal) but this time accelerate normally (in "L"). What happens?
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
It appears the kickdown is not working (or not working fully), amongst other likely issues (did you ever fix the PG wiring). Also, with the car running but not moving and with your foot on the brake (and the e-brake not applied), put the gear selector in "L", then come off the brake pedal and do Not give any gas. What happens? Then, repeat that (and come off the brake pedal) but this time accelerate normally (in "L"). What happens?
Thanks for your response. What is PG? What is e brake? I have a hand brake and I have a foot brake pedal, what do you mean? I didn't quite understand what you want me to do... drive on L? to take a video?
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
PG is pulse generators [for the input shaft and output shaft (transfer driven gear)].

No need for any videos; just let us know what happens on these tests.
There was some service to the gearbox at the garage in 2009, I don't know what they did there exactly, but I think they bypassed the gear speed sensor. Is this the PG wiring you are talking about?
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
It appears the kickdown is not working (or not working fully), amongst other likely issues (did you ever fix the PG wiring). Also, with the car running but not moving and with your foot on the brake (and the e-brake not applied), put the gear selector in "L", then come off the brake pedal and do Not give any gas. What happens? Then, repeat that (and come off the brake pedal) but this time accelerate normally (in "L"). What happens?
I did what you asked. I started the vehicle, released the handbrake and moved the gear lever to L, with my foot pressing the footbrake. And it felt like the car wanted to go.. I let go of the brake pedal and the car started to go, without pressing the gas pedal. After that, I put it on P again and put it back on L and also pressed the gas pedal, and the car drives.. at about 20 km/h, but drives...
 
Yes, those are the PG wires. As previously mentioned, those are supposed to be shielded (and not exposed and not able to touch each other and not able to touch metal).

The L test results are good (ruling out the low part of the low and reverse clutch sub-system). So, assuming your TRS is properly signaling when you place the gear shift lever into R(everse) [test it to be sure it is], the common denominator across your current issues appears to be the kickdown sub-system. I suspect the band and/or drum are too worn, but it appears the piston appears to be working (trying to drive the band). So, to answer your original question, most likely mechanical (plus your wiring issues, but the wiring isn't totally at fault because otherwise you'd be having other incorrect gear ratios reported).
 
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