That explains a lot of things. One is that the clutches and discs had been replaced then.
It would be good to know if any of the kickdown parts had been replaced then, especially the band, drum, rod, and switch. Can you research that and let us know?
And, it would be good to know if any - and which - bearings had been replaced. Can you check on those and let us know?
Nice work.
I tried to check with my dad and the garage where the gearbox was refurbished, but that was 11 years ago and they have no documentation, so I have no idea. But by the cost, I guess everything has been replaced, because until about a year ago, the vehicle drove superbly.
1st does not use the end clutch. 3rd and 4th do. Did you re-install the original 4-tab metal thrust cap on the lock nut or did you use the new 6-tab thrust cap from the kit? You had asked about that. (And, that's why I had asked about the picture of the left side looking in.)
I used the new 6-tab thrust cap from the kit.
Did you install a new oil seal at the bottom of the left side of the double end cover? And, were you careful to not get any liquid sealant near or in the hole when re-assembling and re-installing/re-positioning the double end cover?
I did not install a new oil seal on the bottom left side from the simple fact that you did not specify it, so I did not know it was something I was supposed to do. In fact, if you did not write this now, I would not know that there is an oil seal. I just did not notice him.
As for liquid sealing near the hole, I did not seal there as you explained to me and as the guy in the video did. Although I really wanted to do this because when I cleaned the remnants of the previous sealant, there was a rectangle of material there, meaning this hole was sealed .. so I did not understand why not seal it, but I did what you told me and did not seal this hole.
Where did you place the kit's new thrust washer? On the outside of the hub which faces toward the planet carrier or on the inside of the hub facing the 16-spring-assy?
I placed the kit's new washing machine according to the instructions in the video, I guess it's on the outside of the hub facing the planet carrier. I followed exactly the video. I put the new push cap with the 6 tabs, then I inserted this metal roller, then I put the needle bearing and then I held in my hand the 2 big wheels, I put this disc and mounted gently on the rod. Just like in the video.
Did you check the cage in the rear bearing? Were there any signs of cracking or fatigue or ball position dis-symmetry?
I touched it, turned it around, it would have looked normal to me .. It would not have looked cracked or asymmetrical, but I am not an expert, it might be worthwhile for you to replace it as well ..
Also, did you check the fluid level on the dipstick when the trans is hot (at operating temp) with the car parked level and after moving through each of PRND2L and back to N, with the car still running? Where is the level?
And, what fluid did you install and how many quarts (litres)?
Yes, I measured the fluid level properly, the fluid is in the hot top strip I installed an original Hyundai SP3 fluid, and put it in the amount of liters that came out (I measured with a measuring tool), about 3,250 liters.
Is it a vibration and shaking occurring ... where the car feels like it's vibrating and/or shaking BUT where the steering wheel is Not bouncing? Or, is there no vibration nor shaking? (Can't hear the sound on the video.)
Does the sound occur early in 3rd or only later in 3rd?
If you take your foot off the gas pedal in 3rd and in 4th, does the sound instantly go away? Or does it continue a bit?
And, have the CV axle shafts ever been replaced?
And, have the wheel hubs and bearings ever been replaced?
I'm not talking about steering wheel vibrations right now. They also exist. I'm talking about the feel that appears in gears 3 and 4 when you press the gas (when you take your foot off the gas pedal, the noise stops), I sent you a video in the past where you can hear the noise better.
If I estimate correctly, the noise starts the moment the third gear comes in just right. And if you lift your foot off the pedal, it disappears at once.
As for the CV axle shafts and wheel hubs and bearings, I do not know. I estimate that during the renovation before 11 all the parts were replaced. But I can not say this with certainty, but only by conjecture.
Also, did you notice - and clean off - any debris on the end of the input shaft speed sensor, before re-installing it into the bottom left side of the double end cover? And, did you re-use the o-ring on the sensor, or install a new o-ring on the sensor?
You re-installed the same input shaft speed sensor, correct?
I cleaned debris at the tip of the input shaft speed sensor, and used the same O-ring, though I wanted to replace it but did not want to touch the sensor. In fact, I bought a new input shaft speed sensor, but did not replace it for two reasons:
A. I was afraid that the new sensor should be coded or adjusted.
B. Whoever renovated the chalk 11 years ago, did something there with the wiring of the electricity .. He took out 4 new wires from before the sensor, exposed wires there and connected .. I was afraid to touch it ..
I disassembled the 2 sensors, and also the connector, but it did not disconnect completely, there are all kinds of connections in the combina apparently .. This is probably from the renovation they did to the gear when the vehicle was at 285,000. Because it is not connected only to the connector, that is, it is not clear how I replace, because it is not just disconnect the connector and connect, but to wire wires there ..
try to look abouy this here:
Do you think that installing an new input shaft speed sensor can improve the situation?
Also, I think I touched something I was not supposed to touch, because now the speedometer inside the vehicle is "dancing", going up and down like crazy ...