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Your English is good. So, yes, your front OD bearing is gone, that's why you can't find that matching part. Hyun had 2 different front bearings (enclosed and open - and different sizes). It is likely you had the opened face needle bearing. Therefore, you likely have the correct front replacement bearing. It goes on the front of the hub over top of the new thrust plate (put the new thrust plate on the hub first, then the new needle bearing, with the needles facing outward - toward the planet carrier). Apply a small dab of transmission vasoline (get at auto store) to the back side of the thrust plate and then the back side of the needle bearing, so they don't move (don't shift position away from the hub holders) when the entire end clutch assy is lifted up and held vertically during re-installation ... and keep an ear for any movement. Also, replace the gear shaft, the end clutch seal, the clutches and discs inside the end clutch - you will have to press down on the concentric springs to relieve the pressure to remove the cir-clip, and the end clutch internal piston ring seals. And, remember to replace the double end-cover o-rings (from that earlier post). Regarding the end bearing, replace it, but also spin the original/old one and listen for play and wear, and check the bearing cage for cracking and the balls' positions for dis-symmetry. Make a video showing close-ups of the entire caging and both sides and also rapid spinning of the bearing assy, and let us see and hear that. Spin it fast. Regarding the lock nut washer, post a pic of the left side of the internals of the trans - what is behind the left side of the double-end cover. We can see the lock nut on the output shaft (transfer driven gear), but there's no pic of the input side (transfer drive gear and bearing retainer assy).
 

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Discussion Starter #42
The problem is that you probably understand me, but I do not understand you, because I do not know the names of the parts you are talking about. So, if you can mark me in the pictures or send me pickets so I can purchase the parts from the store, it will really help me.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
Post #12. 3rd pic: 45840; 6th pic: 45561, 45560B, 45471B, 45532A, 45391, 45541A; 8th pic: 45325, 45612.
OK thank you. that's it? And what about the renovation kit I ordered, understanding where to put the metal cylinder? That I also asked about it in the video .. I still did not understand if I need it for my gearbox or not and it came with the kit because it fits into another gearbox.

Do you think replacing all of these parts will extend the life of the chalk and give it a few more years, or do you think there is wear and tear inside the chalk itself as well as assemblies and I am now giving cupping dies?


and please watch also this:

 

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understanding where to put the metal cylinder
Post #22, first sentence. Look INSIDE your OD gear shaft.

Do you think replacing all of these parts will extend the life
or do you think there is wear and tear inside
as well as assemblies
Yes and yes. See post #25.

There are a lot of factors. It is complex. You might get lucky, just finishing what's been started along with the new parts listed above, but we don't know where all the sherds are, and the kickdown parts likely are just as worn (I previously listed the gears those control) as are all the other clutches and discs and seals and gaskets (and internal filters). Since you're already down the OD/end clutch path, finish it (along with the new parts listed), and then see where things stand (how the trans is performing). The problem you're going to be facing is the entire 4th gear area you are replacing is DEPENDENT on - and downstream of - many upstream parts. And, if any of the critical 4th gear parts is not replaced, there will be pressure and/or power transfer losses.
 

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Here is the bushing and its location. It gets pressed in. When you get the new shaft, ask the supplier if the bushing comes already installed inside.

Bushing inside OD gear shaft.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Okay, I wonder what you say. So where is the old Galilee that was there? "Eat" completely?

If it does not come with the new part, how do you put it in? With a rubber mallet? And on which side?

And as for the plates, etc., how do I put in the new ones I will buy and close? Does it change order? Their side? And how do I zip those springs to put the spring that closes them? I opened it just flew over me ..
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Oh. I opened it and went to the store and everything got messed up there. what am I doing? How do I know how to fix it?
 

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The transmission must have been replaced or worked on before (opened up and/or removed and repaired). You hadn't mentioned that.

Is there a blue label on it? (See pic below.) What does the label say?

If not, when was the trans last opened up or removed and repaired? What mileage (kms) and when? And, for what? What all was replaced? Can you get that paperwork?

SN852261.JPG



Post #12 6th pic has the sequence.


post a picture of the left side of the internals of the trans - what is behind the left side of the double-end cover.
Can you post a couple of these pictures (slightly different angles)?

They should be the same view as this (pic), but with the left-side end clutch retainer/hub/OD gear shaft/thrust removed, so we can see the transfer drive gear and input shaft ends.

454936
 

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Discussion Starter #57 (Edited)

I did not know that the chalk had been opened in the past, it turns out that, 360,000 km ago, a general renovation costing $ 1500 was done there. Anyway, thank god I was able to put it all back together. I posted a video. But .. although the error has disappeared, but still feels that the gears are not shifting optimally. The first smile comes in great, but the third and fourth gears are not so .. there is a kick and even as soon as they come in there is a buzzing noise that depends on pressing the accelerator pedal. Has anything to do with it?
 

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a general renovation costing $ 1500 was done
That explains a lot of things. One is that the clutches and discs had been replaced then.
It would be good to know if any of the kickdown parts had been replaced then, especially the band, drum, rod, and switch. Can you research that and let us know?
And, it would be good to know if any - and which - bearings had been replaced. Can you check on those and let us know?

Nice work.

The first smile comes in great, but the third and fourth gears are not so .. there is a kick
1st does not use the end clutch. 3rd and 4th do. Did you re-install the original 4-tab metal thrust cap on the lock nut or did you use the new 6-tab thrust cap from the kit? You had asked about that. (And, that's why I had asked about the picture of the left side looking in.)

454972


Did you install a new oil seal at the bottom of the left side of the double end cover? And, were you careful to not get any liquid sealant near or in the hole when re-assembling and re-installing/re-positioning the double end cover?
454973


Where did you place the kit's new thrust washer? On the outside of the hub which faces toward the planet carrier or on the inside of the hub facing the 16-spring-assy?
454977



Did you check the cage in the rear bearing? Were there any signs of cracking or fatigue or ball position dis-symmetry?
454974


Also, did you check the fluid level on the dipstick when the trans is hot (at operating temp) with the car parked level and after moving through each of PRND2L and back to N, with the car still running? Where is the level?

And, what fluid did you install and how many quarts (litres)?


as they come in there is a buzzing noise that depends on pressing the accelerator pedal.
Is it a vibration and shaking occurring ... where the car feels like it's vibrating and/or shaking BUT where the steering wheel is Not bouncing? Or, is there no vibration nor shaking? (Can't hear the sound on the video.)
Does the sound occur early in 3rd or only later in 3rd?
If you take your foot off the gas pedal in 3rd and in 4th, does the sound instantly go away? Or does it continue a bit?
And, have the CV axle shafts ever been replaced?
And, have the wheel hubs and bearings ever been replaced?

the error has disappeared
Also, did you notice - and clean off - any debris on the end of the input shaft speed sensor, before re-installing it into the bottom left side of the double end cover? And, did you re-use the o-ring on the sensor, or install a new o-ring on the sensor?

You re-installed the same input shaft speed sensor, correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
That explains a lot of things. One is that the clutches and discs had been replaced then.
It would be good to know if any of the kickdown parts had been replaced then, especially the band, drum, rod, and switch. Can you research that and let us know?
And, it would be good to know if any - and which - bearings had been replaced. Can you check on those and let us know?

Nice work.
I tried to check with my dad and the garage where the gearbox was refurbished, but that was 11 years ago and they have no documentation, so I have no idea. But by the cost, I guess everything has been replaced, because until about a year ago, the vehicle drove superbly.

1st does not use the end clutch. 3rd and 4th do. Did you re-install the original 4-tab metal thrust cap on the lock nut or did you use the new 6-tab thrust cap from the kit? You had asked about that. (And, that's why I had asked about the picture of the left side looking in.)
I used the new 6-tab thrust cap from the kit.

Did you install a new oil seal at the bottom of the left side of the double end cover? And, were you careful to not get any liquid sealant near or in the hole when re-assembling and re-installing/re-positioning the double end cover?
I did not install a new oil seal on the bottom left side from the simple fact that you did not specify it, so I did not know it was something I was supposed to do. In fact, if you did not write this now, I would not know that there is an oil seal. I just did not notice him.

As for liquid sealing near the hole, I did not seal there as you explained to me and as the guy in the video did. Although I really wanted to do this because when I cleaned the remnants of the previous sealant, there was a rectangle of material there, meaning this hole was sealed .. so I did not understand why not seal it, but I did what you told me and did not seal this hole.

Where did you place the kit's new thrust washer? On the outside of the hub which faces toward the planet carrier or on the inside of the hub facing the 16-spring-assy?
I placed the kit's new washing machine according to the instructions in the video, I guess it's on the outside of the hub facing the planet carrier. I followed exactly the video. I put the new push cap with the 6 tabs, then I inserted this metal roller, then I put the needle bearing and then I held in my hand the 2 big wheels, I put this disc and mounted gently on the rod. Just like in the video.

Did you check the cage in the rear bearing? Were there any signs of cracking or fatigue or ball position dis-symmetry?
I touched it, turned it around, it would have looked normal to me .. It would not have looked cracked or asymmetrical, but I am not an expert, it might be worthwhile for you to replace it as well ..

Also, did you check the fluid level on the dipstick when the trans is hot (at operating temp) with the car parked level and after moving through each of PRND2L and back to N, with the car still running? Where is the level?

And, what fluid did you install and how many quarts (litres)?
Yes, I measured the fluid level properly, the fluid is in the hot top strip I installed an original Hyundai SP3 fluid, and put it in the amount of liters that came out (I measured with a measuring tool), about 3,250 liters.

Is it a vibration and shaking occurring ... where the car feels like it's vibrating and/or shaking BUT where the steering wheel is Not bouncing? Or, is there no vibration nor shaking? (Can't hear the sound on the video.)
Does the sound occur early in 3rd or only later in 3rd?
If you take your foot off the gas pedal in 3rd and in 4th, does the sound instantly go away? Or does it continue a bit?
And, have the CV axle shafts ever been replaced?
And, have the wheel hubs and bearings ever been replaced?
I'm not talking about steering wheel vibrations right now. They also exist. I'm talking about the feel that appears in gears 3 and 4 when you press the gas (when you take your foot off the gas pedal, the noise stops), I sent you a video in the past where you can hear the noise better.
If I estimate correctly, the noise starts the moment the third gear comes in just right. And if you lift your foot off the pedal, it disappears at once.

As for the CV axle shafts and wheel hubs and bearings, I do not know. I estimate that during the renovation before 11 all the parts were replaced. But I can not say this with certainty, but only by conjecture.

Also, did you notice - and clean off - any debris on the end of the input shaft speed sensor, before re-installing it into the bottom left side of the double end cover? And, did you re-use the o-ring on the sensor, or install a new o-ring on the sensor?

You re-installed the same input shaft speed sensor, correct?
I cleaned debris at the tip of the input shaft speed sensor, and used the same O-ring, though I wanted to replace it but did not want to touch the sensor. In fact, I bought a new input shaft speed sensor, but did not replace it for two reasons:

A. I was afraid that the new sensor should be coded or adjusted.
B. Whoever renovated the chalk 11 years ago, did something there with the wiring of the electricity .. He took out 4 new wires from before the sensor, exposed wires there and connected .. I was afraid to touch it ..

I disassembled the 2 sensors, and also the connector, but it did not disconnect completely, there are all kinds of connections in the combina apparently .. This is probably from the renovation they did to the gear when the vehicle was at 285,000. Because it is not connected only to the connector, that is, it is not clear how I replace, because it is not just disconnect the connector and connect, but to wire wires there ..

try to look abouy this here:

Do you think that installing an new input shaft speed sensor can improve the situation?

Also, I think I touched something I was not supposed to touch, because now the speedometer inside the vehicle is "dancing", going up and down like crazy ...
 

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Thanks for trying to check on the parts that previously had been replaced.

Can you post a pic of the kickdown switch and the 2 bolts (see pic)?
And can you post a pick of the adjuster? (see pic).
Those might tell us a lot.


455047


455049


you did not specify it, so I did not know it was something I was supposed to do
Actually, in post #25 I had said ...

Also, you will need - want - new o-rings for the bottom of the left cover. There are small holes there c r i t i c a l for oil routing to the OD retainer - for 4th gear. Also, be sure these holes are NOT blocked by any cover sealant, when s l o w l y reinstalling the left (or double end) cover.
And in post #43 I gave the part # 45612.


I did what you told me and did not seal this hole.
Good. This is THE path by which the trans routes the hydraulic pressure to the 4th gear. If it were blocked, there would be multiple issues.

when I cleaned the remnants of the previous sealant, there was a rectangle of material there,
There should have been a small o-ring seal there. This is what seals the double end cover to the case for the critical flow INTO the end clutch retainer case.

If this o-ring is missing, that would explain 3rd and 4th gear issues. There would be pressure losses.


Related, did you see 1 or 2 steel balls inside the end clutch retainer assy when you had it apart for the clutches and discs and internal ring seals?

Did those balls get put back in their cubbies?


I used the new 6-tab thrust cap from the kit.
How well (snuggly) did the 6-tabs fit on the (lock-nut/input shaft) end? Did you compare that fitting with the 4-tab thrust cap?


did something there with the wiring of the electricity
Hyun had issues with the wire routing at the trans mount bracket (damaging the insulation and wires) and issued a TSB to re-position the wires. But, this assumed the issue was caught before the damage. The wire length was insufficient ... as were some other circuits on the car.

Do you think that installing an new input shaft speed sensor can improve the situation
Yes, I would do this. The dual sensors come together and should have their new o-rings on the them. When you do this, CLEAN the area before removing the old sensors, ensure the old o-rings come out and do not fall into the trans, ensure the new sensors are the same as the old ones, and then position the wire-run (near the output shaft speed sensor - it is the one on top) on the firewall side of the trans mount bracket so it does Not get pinched as it runs underneath the bracket over to the input shaft speed sensor. There is scant length to do so, so it will require some finesse.


I think I touched something I was not supposed to touch, because now the speedometer inside the vehicle is "dancing",
Did you loosen/remove the passenger's side top engine mount and wedge-up the engine there tilting the trans downward on an angle to be able to access and remove the top bolts on the double end cover? Or, were the top bolts (of the double end cover) accessible and removable without having to create space?

If the p's side top mount was not loosened/removed, then was the trans jack-supported level throughout the entire work ... or did the trans possibly shift angles during the work, damaging the spdo cable run/connection?
 
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