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Discussion Starter #21
Sorry for the late response. I'm on probation at university.

As for the video, there are 4 parts in the renovation kit, but in the video you do not see where the first part on the right is composed (such a cylinder ..):

Regarding the questions in the transmission. It depends on whether the vehicle is hot or cold. When the vehicle is cold, there is a knock in the shift of all gears.
When the vehicle is hot, there is a knock in the transition from first gear to second, and third to fourth. It seems to me..
And yes, there is a knock even when the vehicle shifts from third gear to first gear.

As for the video, I can not upload a video here.
 

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The bushing fits inside the OD (4th gear) shaft - in between the 2 oil feed holes.

The end clutch retainer is rotating in all gears, when the car is moving. It would be misaligned, if its front needle bearing failed.

1st to 2nd involves the release of the planet carrier and the activation of the rear clutch and kickdown, events that involve their bearings and depend on the end clutch bearing.

3rd to 4th involves the end clutch and kickdown, again involving those bearings.

3rd to 1st involves the end clutch and clutching of the planet carrier, followed by the kickdown.

Thus, it appears the kickdown and/or end clutch needle bearings have failed, and there likely are wear issues on the kickdown band and drum and 4th gear shaft splines.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Thanks for the quick response. So what do you advise me to do?

Does the kit I bought (according to the YouTube video) have it to solve the problem in my car and there is no need to disassemble the gear from the car, but just open it from the side. Or I will just keep driving until the gearbox finally dies and only then replace it The gearbox itself.

By the way, if you get into a state of general overhaul of the gearbox, and disassemble the vehicle, how do I know which parts to replace?

And another question, at your disposal .. Do you think a new speed sensor can be useful for shifting gears, or has nothing to do with the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Anyway, I plan to do the work in another week and a half or two weeks, I would love to be in touch with you on Telegram / WhatsApp or another means by which I can send you photos and videos and consult you in real time.

+972545472748 Ariel
 

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You are in a difficult predicament. The trans has high mileage, the kit only will address part of the issue, the other parts, at least here in the USA, are hard to find and may not be available, and a proper overhaul requires tools you won't have (such as for ensuring correct bearing/shaft/gear preloads/spacers). The question is: will the trans work good enough if just the kit is installed (and done correctly - there are several critical steps involved). I don't want to discourage you from tackling it nor discourage you from keeping the car given the personal connection, but I would estimate/expect a 40-60% likelihood of success. Your options are to (a) follow @12GLS3.5 's advice in post 5, (b) try to find a Hyun reman trans with a new torque converter and replace your trans cooler hoses (and clamps) and flush the cooler's channels (in the bottom of the radiator, using Hyun's flush product) before filling the new trans, (c) try to find a good used low-mileage trans and torque converter and replace your cooler hoses and flush the channels before filling the used trans, and/or (d) take the time to research the availability of the overhaul parts - new bearings throughout the trans, new clutches and discs and wave and return springs (correct quantities of each), probably new clutch retainers for their pistons, new kickdown parts (band/drum/rod/rod retainer/piston/sleeve and probably switch), new o-rings/D-rings/seals/gaskets/filters (these come in their own Hyun kit and generally are available), new solenoids, new (or useable) OD gear shaft, and output shaft locknut. Option (d) will be instructive because it will reveal what is and what isn't available. If you get a good used OD gear shaft, heads-up: Hyun had 3 different lengths. Yours must match.

The input shaft speed sensor (pulse generator "A") likely is not among your main issues. It is, however, reporting - or trying to report - the signals from the misaligned end clutch retainer. I would recommend it be tested (by backprobing BOTH of it pins and connecting the leads to an o'scope) before deciding to replace it. Its signal will increase in amplitude and frequency as the input shaft increases speed, and its signal should be quiescent when the car is at a stop. If option (a) is pursued, ask the trans specialist to remove and clean the pickup ends of each shaft speed sensor, while the overhaul work is being performed [or if options (c) or (d) are pursued, do that during those also]. The shaft speed sensors come (already installed) with Hyun's remans, so these steps aren't necessary for option (b).

If you decide to tackle the kit job only, get the new (or correct-length useable used) OD gear shaft ahead of time. Also, go s l o w l y when you remove the left cover (or double end cover - Hyun had two configurations there), so you don't dislocate the OD parts behind the left cover before you can see them. Some will want to fall out/down. You will need to know their orientations for reassembly. Also, you will need - want - new o-rings for the bottom of the left cover. There are small holes there c r i t i c a l for oil routing to the OD retainer - for 4th gear. Also, be sure these holes are NOT blocked by any cover sealant, when s l o w l y reinstalling the left (or double end) cover. Also, be sure to use the proper fluid at the end when refilling the trans, and do not over- or under-fill. Finally, bear in mind, the end cover bearing (which you will see when the cover is removed) and all the internals of the end clutch retainer and the end clutch hub (which slides out easily) will be worn. Now would be the time to replace all of these, IF the kickdown parts are holding in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
You are in a difficult predicament. The trans has high mileage, the kit only will address part of the issue, the other parts, at least here in the USA, are hard to find and may not be available, and a proper overhaul requires tools you won't have (such as for ensuring correct bearing/shaft/gear preloads/spacers). The question is: will the trans work good enough if just the kit is installed (and done correctly - there are several critical steps involved). I don't want to discourage you from tackling it nor discourage you from keeping the car given the personal connection, but I would estimate/expect a 40-60% likelihood of success. Your options are to (a) follow @12GLS3.5 's advice in post 5, (b) try to find a Hyun reman trans with a new torque converter and replace your trans cooler hoses (and clamps) and flush the cooler's channels (in the bottom of the radiator, using Hyun's flush product) before filling the new trans, (c) try to find a good used low-mileage trans and torque converter and replace your cooler hoses and flush the channels before filling the used trans, and/or (d) take the time to research the availability of the overhaul parts - new bearings throughout the trans, new clutches and discs and wave and return springs (correct quantities of each), probably new clutch retainers for their pistons, new kickdown parts (band/drum/rod/rod retainer/piston/sleeve and probably switch), new o-rings/D-rings/seals/gaskets/filters (these come in their own Hyun kit and generally are available), new solenoids, new (or useable) OD gear shaft, and output shaft locknut. Option (d) will be instructive because it will reveal what is and what isn't available. If you get a good used OD gear shaft, heads-up: Hyun had 3 different lengths. Yours must match.

The input shaft speed sensor (pulse generator "A") likely is not among your main issues. It is, however, reporting - or trying to report - the signals from the misaligned end clutch retainer. I would recommend it be tested (by backprobing BOTH of it pins and connecting the leads to an o'scope) before deciding to replace it. Its signal will increase in amplitude and frequency as the input shaft increases speed, and its signal should be quiescent when the car is at a stop. If option (a) is pursued, ask the trans specialist to remove and clean the pickup ends of each shaft speed sensor, while the overhaul work is being performed [or if options (c) or (d) are pursued, do that during those also]. The shaft speed sensors come (already installed) with Hyun's remans, so these steps aren't necessary for option (b).

If you decide to tackle the kit job only, get the new (or correct-length useable used) OD gear shaft ahead of time. Also, go s l o w l y when you remove the left cover (or double end cover - Hyun had two configurations there), so you don't dislocate the OD parts behind the left cover before you can see them. Some will want to fall out/down. You will need to know their orientations for reassembly. Also, you will need - want - new o-rings for the bottom of the left cover. There are small holes there c r i t i c a l for oil routing to the OD retainer - for 4th gear. Also, be sure these holes are NOT blocked by any cover sealant, when s l o w l y reinstalling the left (or double end) cover. Also, be sure to use the proper fluid at the end when refilling the trans, and do not over- or under-fill. Finally, bear in mind, the end cover bearing (which you will see when the cover is removed) and all the internals of the end clutch retainer and the end clutch hub (which slides out easily) will be worn. Now would be the time to replace all of these, IF the kickdown parts are holding in there.
Hi, thanks for the explaination, I have a few follow up questions.
The knock occurs when accelerating going into first and third.
You mentioned replacing the trans cooler hoses. I'm curious how those are connected? (maybe I am misunderstanding what the trans cooler hose is?)
I think I will go the route of the KIT job. What is the OD gear shaft?
Also, included in the KIT is a metal ring that wasnt in the video and I'm wondering what that is.
 

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going into first
Going into 1st is interesting, bc the trans is leaving gear state C. C has partial kickdown activated. Hence, why I had asked those original questions, where another of your needle bearings is ... or was ...
Going into 3rd, kickdown gets released. Again, why the original questions were posed.
The trans employs a heat exchanger. Both (trans fluid) hoses (output and return input) connect at the top of the trans, and route down to/from the bottom of the radiator (where parallel flow heat exchange occurs). You can't miss these. Just be sure to note which hose connects to which bottom radiator port, bc the SM does NOT indicate how they should be connected.
When you slide off the end cutch retainer assy, the OD gear shaft will be either inside the retainer or remain seated in the planet carrier (or may fall down). It is your 4th gear shaft. IT is what turns the planet carrier. It likely is worn on the splines (at a minimum).

When you tackle the kit job, take pictures and post them here on the forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Oh. I was confused in writing. I wrote that the knock is in first and third gear, and I really meant to write that the knock is in second and fourth gear.

Regarding the 42220LK Kit, I ordered it from the website:
Believes he will come to me in the next week or two and then I will be free to do the work.

I asked about the radiator cooling pipes, because I did not understand why replace them .. they look fine .. do you think that replacing them in addition to all the 'renovation' is needed? why?

You wrote: "and done correctly - there are several critical steps involved"
So I consult, where can I go wrong?

And another question, at your disposal. Should I do the treatment using the kit (option D), I must empty the transmission fluid and disassemble the carter, or can the chalk be opened on the left side even without emptying the fluid and there is no fear that the fluid will spill out ..
 

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2nd and 4th involve the (full) kickdown.

several critical steps involved"
So I consult, where can I go wrong?
See post #25, final paragraph.

be opened on the left side even without emptying the fluid
The fluid will gush out. Everything behind the cover is awash/sitting in trans oil. So, yes, you will want to drain the AT oil pan; then remove the pan and main filter (there are several); re-check the pan, filter, temp sensor and bracket (they are right there and could have contaminants on them), and inside the bottom of the VB (lower chamber) (once the main filter is removed) - for sherds and material and sludge, get them all clean, (and then do the kit job, removing the double end cover or left end cover, depending on which Hyun config your trans has).

On the hoses and cooler flush-out, (at least one of your) needle bearings failed inside the mechanicals of the trans. We don't know where all the sherds ended up/got mechanically and hydraulically shoved to/are.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
2nd and 4th involve the (full) kickdown.
so? the kit I ordered enough to solve these kicks, or do I need to swap more stuff? I did not come to the end of your mind, sorry.

How do I clean the cooling pipes? Just disassemble them after I drain the liquid from the carter? Will no more liquid be spilled from there? Clean them with air pressure? And how to clean the other parts you talked about? I will replace the filter, but what about cleaning the temperature sensor, valves and other parts you mentioned. How do you clean them?
 

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The kit you ordered only addresses the end clutch front bearing.

How do I clean the cooling pipes?

general AT cooler flush process.jpg




cleaning the temperature sensor, valves
After checking it and its harness run and its bracket (and single bolt) for contamination, wipe them clean. The goal is to find and eliminate all traces of the failed bearing, thrusts, and friction materials - all debris. The kit (ordered) has nothing to do with the valves, and you won't be seeing or clearing out any of the them. But, it is worth looking up into the bottom square of the VB, when the main filter is removed, and shining a high lumens light inside the opening, to see if any debris is sitting there to be removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I ask about the kicks there are at the entrance to second gear and at the entrance to fourth gear. If I understood you correctly, the kit I ordered is not related to them and therefore will not solve it?
In other words, to solve if these kicks, is it necessary to replace additional components? If so, what are they? And can I replace you in order to replace them by opening the side gearbox?

As for the cleaning, well, I need to open the carter. So on the way I will already replace the filter, but it is impossible to disassemble more things from below? Like the valves and solenoids and clean them? You said to look there with a flashlight .. but Ann will think of a way to clean in case I find waste there, just wondering how to clean ...


I also tried to upload a video, but to no avail. Then I will upload it to YouTube and send a link.

Aside from the knocks, I also wanted you to hear the buzzing when you press the gas in second and third gears ... which is something that has been around for half a year now.
And for that I uploaded a video on YouTube ...

 

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the kicks there are at the entrance to second gear and at the entrance to fourth gear.
Regarding this and the video, the evidence is consistent with post #22, paragraphs 2/3/4/6.

the valves and solenoids
BEFORE doing any disassembly of the VB (a much more intricate undertaking), see what the state of the end clutch front bearing, front thrust, OD gear shaft splines - both ends, OD gear shaft internal bushing, end clutch hub splines, end clutch retainer assy, and end clutch rear bearing are. Pictures of these will determine next steps.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
BEFORE doing any disassembly of the VB (a much more intricate undertaking), see what the state of the end clutch front bearing, front thrust, OD gear shaft splines - both ends, OD gear shaft internal bushing, end clutch hub splines, end clutch retainer assy, and end clutch rear bearing are. Pictures of these will determine next steps.
Okay. I plan to do the work early next week, so you've got some pictures.
Although, some of the parts you wrote, I do not know and know what they look like so I can take a picture of you, so if you can attach a picture of the parts you want me to have in my gearbox, it will help me a lot.
 

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One of these is the shaft; the shaft rides - or was riding - on the (rear needle) bearing.
3 different OD gear shafts.jpg



Simulating what yours probably looks like. Shaft, missing bearing, missing thrust, hub, retainer.

end clutch assy & hub.jpg


Let us know the shaft's length and whether the retainer has 16 concentric springs or 8 clutch (fingers) springs.

And, post (all) the pics.
 

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Nice work.

Need close up pics of both sides of the round object above the OD shaft in your first pic. This is either a thrust plate or the front bearing. Hyun had 2 different types.

Also, is that first pic showing that the object is cracked?

Need to see the opposite side. Is the opposite side intact?

When you removed that object, was it on the front of the hub or behind the hub between the back of the hub and the retainer?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
My English is not good enough to shoot a video, but for that matter, I tried. What I wanted was to make a comparison between the parts I found inside the gearbox I opened and the new parts that came in the kit. Show the differences in them and try to understand if the differences are normal or if there is a problem. In addition, I tried to show that there are "eaten" and worn parts, and I wanted to ask if they should be replaced, but I do not know what each part is called so I stuttered in the video .. hope it is understandable enough to help you help me. Thank you!

 
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