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You replaced all those parts to eliminate a vibration? 90% of vibrations at speed are caused by out-of-balance wheels or bent wheels.



Hit the steering arm eye squarely next to the tapered shaft with the blow inline with the steering arm. You can also try heating the eye with a propane torch just hot enough that you cannot touch it. Then try the hammer. Blowing CO2 on the eye will also separate the parts. There are tools made for specifically removing ball joint tapered shafts or tie rod end tapered shafts. Many of the auto parts stores have the tools for rent or if you buy the tie rod end they will let you have the tool with a deposit. You get the deposit back when you return it. They may also have the tool for sale (new). If you are replacing the tie rod end you can use a pickle fork of the correct size. Pickle forks destroy the boot seal and in the old days you could purchase a new boot seal so pickle forks were more common. Now there are tools that don't destroy the boot seals so pickle forks aren't as popular for routine removal.
When you did the struts did you use the Gabriel strut package? I am going to have to replace my struts on my 2010 Sonata and I am going to use the Gabriel strut package. You get the strut and the rest of the assembly as a package so there is nothing to take apart and repair. Simply unbolt the existing strut and spring as a unit and replace it with the Gabriel unit. I have no financial interest in Gabriel; just seems to be an easier route to go without the danger of removing springs, etc.
 

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One additional thing. When you did all that work on your front end did you use a torque wrench to tighten everything to spec? If not then you may have some connections that are moving when you turn the steering wheel and they make a pop noise. Without hearing it I would suspect that tie rod end. If it was popping when rolling it would be the outer CV joint.


I purchased my Sonata two years ago and within 6 months the driver's side front suspension developed a squeaking noise that I traced to the connection between the lower suspension arm and the suspension fork that the drive shaft passes through. I checked the shop manual that I have and looked up the torque setting for the bolt. I tried turning the nut with a wrench and was surprised that it turned quite easily. It was squeaking because it had never been torqued properly from some previous work. I torqued the bolt properly and it has never squeaked since. I drive in the city of Houston mostly and if you are from the Houston, Texas area you know how much the roads suck; lots of hole, bumps, and crappy patches. If the suspension was going to squeak again this is the place it would do it. So when you are doing your own work make sure you torque all the fasteners.
 
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