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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My vehicle began stalling when warm and shut off, then restarted. It throws two codes. P2105, P0605. These codes are throttle actuator-Forced shutdown and checksum error. My research has left me confused about fixing the problems. The PCM can't run its routine properly from what I gather, and that could be a bad connection or ground or solder joint. The throttle issue appears to be secondary, but many clean or replace the throttle body and/or sensor. I took it to auto shop and they said I need to replace pcm. This is where I am having problems. Used pcm for my model can be found for around a 100 dollars. I have been told it is risky but it has to be programmed to my vehicle regardless. Risky meaning it won't work since the condition is unknown. I've been also told it's plug and play. No programming necc. Which is it? I've also read these things rarely go, and there is probably an electrical issue. Can the one I have just be reflashed? I guess that won't fix a internal solder problem. For now, it works on a cold start if it's not too hot outside. Please help.
 

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2014 SFS 2.4l
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Looks like there's a TSB for it which includes your year/model. Attached is the TSB (13-FL-001); check it out before dropping money on an ECU. Typically, they all have to be programmed with at least your VIN number and make sure you have the right updates.

Have you had the following performed?

Service Procedure:
When P0605 and P2110 are the ONLY two present DTCs:
Inspect the following component(s) operation and related wiring circuit.
• Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
• MAP Sensor and Turbocharger Boost Sensor (MAP Sensor #2 for Turbo charging system)
• Exhaust system modifications
DTC P0605 AND ACCOMPANYING DTC(S) DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

SUBJECT:
When P0605 and P2105 are the ONLY two present DTCs:
• Replace PCM
When P0605 and any other DTC(s) are present:
Inspect the accompanying DTC(s) related component(s) operation and wiring circuit(s) (refer to the Shop Manual for more details)

Are you within the 10yr/100k warranty still or well past it? I'm assuming they're having you check the Coolant Temp and MAP sensors because they could cause issues on the signal return. Unfortunately I don't have access to what their specs should be (again, maybe SBR can give some additional advice on testing).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks so much everyone. You guys are good. It appears I need a pcm replace. I'm not covered under warranty since I'm a second owner since 2012. I don't even know how they figure that out since it's paid off. It is less than 10 yrs. I need to find an inexpensive way to get a used pcm working in the vehicle. Source etc. I don't think. I have chip keys or anything else except a basic car alarm. No hitch or changes on my end. I'd expect to find a replacement with same parameters. Might need a Vin entry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's an update to my ecm issue. I bought an ecm through ebay, and get this, it was 35 bucks with free shipping. I was careful to match the part number. It arrived quick as advertised. I didn't have real high hopes. Since my unit was still working on cold start, I plugged in the other one to test. I followed someone's recommendation on the internet to disco the battery 15 min, then connect. Turn car to on and look foe dash lights including check engine. Then turn key off, and then start. The car started right up. Been driving it since Sun and today is Thurs with no codes. I know the serial number is out of whack, but so far the car works. I'm a little shocked this worked when I was quoted 1500 for the job. I'm not sure how much better it would have been with a computer the shop found, and their programming. On another note, does anyone know how to fix a gas latch button that doesn't work anymore?
 

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