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Discussion Starter #1
My girl has a 2007 Hyundai Accent GS. Her passenger window doesn't go up or down using neither door switch. I have tested the switch and motor both work providing 12.6-12.10v. We purchased a new motor and regulator still doesn't work. When I put different supply of 12v to the motor the window go up and down. However, if I use the original wiring in the car it doesn't work. I don't understand what is missing and have grown very annoyed with the situation. If the switches where bad I would assume it wouldn't work for one side. If the motor didn't work another source of power wouldn't power it. Testing done with 12v test light and multimeter. Could someone please give recommendations at this point I'm at a lost? Any help appreciated.
 

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If the switches where bad I would assume it wouldn't work for one side.
That is an incorrect assumption. A failure in either of the switches can stop the window operating from both of them.

FWIW, in my experience, the problem is more often the drivers door switch but I always test the circuit to confirm before replacing any parts. A break in the wiring between the driver & passenger doors can cause the same symptoms.

It's not that difficult to carry out bypass tests on the switches to figure out where the fault lies. I can explain how to do it if you want to have a go.

Oh, and don't forget to check the window lock button on the driver's door.
 

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I would start by trying the bypass test on the driver's door switch.

To do that you need to have the motor and the switch in the passenger door connected.
Disconnect the driver's door switch, and switch the ignition on.
Now use a couple of short link wires (paper clips perhaps) to link the terminals on the switch connector as shown on the diagram below.
If the window will go up and down when you insert the links, your done and replacing the switch should fix the problem.
If the window still doesn't move when you bypass the driver's switch, reconnect it and disconnect the passenger door switch.
Use you link wires to try the bypass test on the passenger switch. If the window now moves replacing that switch should fix the problem.
If the window doesn't move when bypassing either switch the problem is probably a broken wire somewhere between the two switches.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for this. I appreciate the details with the diagram. I'm busy until maybe Thursday evening but will be using the diagram provided.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was able to test the driver switch and didn't get a response. I was able to find a really inexpensive master switch for the driver side and the passenger window still doesn't work. I will update the post when I have another chance to test the passenger window.
 

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If you had put power to the motor to test it is working
Then I would have checked to see if the switches were putting power and grounds to the window motor
Find if one or the other or both are missing
I would be suspecting the wiring to and from the window motor

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Spark,

I just tested the passenger door without the switch. I verified the window lock wasn't on. "Even switched it on and off a couple times while testing" Then followed the diagram to see if I can get the window down. Note The window is all the way up so I don't want to try and pull it up further and break the regulator. When I connected the wires I heard the motor make a sound like power reached it but wasn't enough to make it turn to move the window. Every time I connected the wire the above happened. This doesn't seem to be wiring or the switches. Confirmed Motor and regulator is working correctly. So I don't know what else I can check with this situation. Any other suggestions? I started the car to make sure proper volts was circulating. Also tested with multimeter and when I switched the positive side from right to left I was getting volts through one of the negative sides depending on which way the positive was connected. ????
 

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Motoring the window up a little wont damage anything, so don't worry about that.

I'd use your voltmeter to check the voltages on the passenger door switch. What you want to do is back probe the connector with the switch connected so you can monitor the voltage while operating the switch.

Below is a diagram showing where the power supply and grounds are on the connector, one 12V supply and two grounds. Connecting the meter between the positive (center wire) and one of the grounds should show 12V on the meter. Now operate the switch and see what happens to the voltage. Then repeat for the other ground.



You might find one of the grounds is missing (no 12V on the meter) which means the window can go up but not down. That might be why you can hear the motor trying to operate. It's trying to move the glass further up but obviously it can't if the window is already closed.
 

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