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My car is a 2004 Elantra 2.0 with 177K miles. I have a CEL with a code of 0449. I have already replaced the VAPOR CANISTER VENT SOLENOID VALVE. 31430-29200. That didn't work. I also replaced the GAS CAP. These are all OEM parts. I went to YouTube and there is talk about this part. NEW Emissions Charcoal Vapor Canister Air Filter OEM For Hyundai 314533M100. Also this part is mentioned. Vapor Canister Purge Control Valve for Hyundai Accent Elantra

How do I know if my car has those parts. It's very difficult to find the part numbers and my closest dealer is 45 miles away. I can't afford to replace the Charcoal Canister but if these other parts are needed they are much less expensive.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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I doubt if the air filter is the problem. A way to tell before getting a new on is to remove it and see if the code goes away.


here's the part number, number 31453B in the drawing up by the gas cap. 314532D530


https://www.jimellishyundaiparts.co..._model=14681&modelYear=2004&searchString=fuel


FWIW my '08 Accent says to change this every 30k or so. I bought one and never installed it. Now at 155k miles. I believe it says now to just check it in newer models. This is how it is on my 2010 Gen Coupe..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Red Raspberry, thank you so much for the fast reply. If I have already replaced the gas cap and the Vapor Canister Vent Solenoid Valve. You doubt it's the Air Filter then the only inexpensive option I have is the Vapor Canister Purge Valve. It's not expensive but it is very difficult to find to replace it. If that doesn't work I have to replace the Charcoal Canister which is very, very, expensive. I have already posted a thread asking for advice on how to clean the Canister but so far I haven't gotten an answer. It really makes me mad because the car runs perfectly and it gets 28MPG with local driving. Thanks again for help.
 

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You doubt it's the Air Filter then the only inexpensive option I have is the Vapor Canister Purge Valve.
I seriously doubt replacing either of those will help.

P0449 is a trouble code telling you there's a fault with the canister vent valve circuit, so you need to diagnose the circuit that the trouble code is pointing to. Simply replacing random parts isn't likely to help and your just throwing your money away.

You know the fault isn't within the solenoid valve itself since you've replaced it, so you need to take a look at the rest of the circuit. The first thing I'd suggest you do is check that there's a good 12V power supply to the valve while the ignition is switched on.
 

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I seriously doubt replacing either of those will help.

P0449 is a trouble code telling you there's a fault with the canister vent valve circuit, so you need to diagnose the circuit that the trouble code is pointing to. Simply replacing random parts isn't likely to help and your just throwing your money away.

You know the fault isn't within the solenoid valve itself since you've replaced it, so you need to take a look at the rest of the circuit. The first thing I'd suggest you do is check that there's a good 12V power supply to the valve while the ignition is switched on.
what HE^^ said. too often, people think the dtc means a certain part is bad. while that might be true, it is way more common to mean something in that CIRCUIT is throwing the code. find someone with a smoke machine.
 

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Thanks for everyone's replies. I have no idea what a Smoke Machine is. I will look it up after I get log out. Does anyone know which fuse controls this circuit so I can voltage test it as suggested.
 

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I just found out that I will have to take it to the dealer to run diagnostics to find the problem. The closest dealer is 45 miles and he told me it would be $85 to analyze the problem. I have been searching and I can't find what fuse controls this circuit. What really hurts is that the car runs great but it won't pass inspection with a CEL on.
 

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I just found out that I will have to take it to the dealer to run diagnostics to find the problem.
Really, why is that?

tonyespo said:
I have been searching and I can't find what fuse controls this circuit.
So do what us AUTOSPARKs do....check them ALL. It only takes 5 mins or so to check every fuse on the car.
If you look closely at the fuses you'll see that each fuse has two little metal tabs on top. To test the fuses you just need to touch your voltmeter probe to the metal tabs on each fuse and make sure you have the same voltage on both. If you have different voltages, the fuse is blown. There isn't any need to remove each individual fuse.

Did you replace the vent valve yourself? If so, why not check the voltage on each terminal of the valves harness connector (ignition on). If you don't have a voltmeter, use the money you were about to waste buying those random parts to buy a meter instead. It's a much better investment.
 

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I do have a volt / Ohm meter. I will give that a try. I promise when I get this problem solved I will post what I found so it may help others.
 

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The volt/ohm meter on the fuse top worked perfectly. I didn't even know you could check the fuses that way. I have 14.3 volts on both sides of the fuse to ground. That rules out a blown fuse. I guess I will have to take the connector off the Vent Solenoid and check the voltage there. I found a YouTube video on replacing the charcoal in the canister. That will be my last resort.
 

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You said 0449,,,,,, that y a simple repair, usually no part required,, unless offending damage fouled the part..

Code definition says "Vent Circuit",,,, makes you want to believe it is an electric part fault..

Need to define circuit a little more clearly,,, a round around Lemans or Nuremburg is a "circuit" or path,, so why not look at the vent path ??

This would be the ability of air to flow down fill neck into tank, through fill vent valve on tank,, through to canister, and out to atmosphere via vent tube to vent filter

This would be Vent circuit,, but test logic via PCM is watching Tank Pressure during Purge,, and likely seeing Tank Pressure pull into vacuum, rather that be a wee disturbance of voltage, as the tank pressure is generally atmoshpere, so act of purge should not draw vacuum in an open container, unless vent circuit was blocked,,

So,, as far as part numbers,, when you call dealer looking for part, fella loads VIN into catalog, and ID vehicle,, goes to appropriate system section, tap PNC beside part in diagram, and part number comes up,, pretty simple

Testing vent path,, pull vent tube from tank to canister,, blow through tube back into tank (cap off),, should flow free

Remove other vent tube from canister, and blow through canister,, though when tubes removed, we didnt see litt bits of charcol fall out... canister should flow free with very little-- if any resistance

Lastly, blow through vent tube that head up into wheel well,, see if it flow free

CCV,, naa,, it open all the time.. only close for EVAP Leak test,, we dont have EVAP Leak,, vent circuit concern, unless it stuck closed during purge and and system pull into vacuum

Back to "0449"..................... How about mud and other road debris behind the liner at left rear wheel well,, void between liner - body - and vent filter fill with debris, and block the vent filter opening, thus restricting the ability of vent circuit to breath freely
 
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Need to define circuit a little more clearly,,, a round around Lemans or Nuremburg is a "circuit" or path,, so why not look at the vent path ??
Your post highlights the importance of have access to the correct diagnostic information. The info I have on this code points you towards the electrical circuit, not the pneumatic one (P0446 seems to deal with the pneumatic side of things). So I graciously bow to your superior knowledge, not to mention your access to superior information.

In my defense, we don't have this over complicated evap system here in Europe. Our systems don't have vent valves or pressure sensors, and as a result we have very few issues with our evap systems.
 

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UPDATE: This morning when I started the car the CEL was out. The mileage was 178051. I drove it to town and at 198076 exactly 25 miles it came back on. I doubt that 25 miles would be enough to clear the code from the computer. What I'm thinking about doing is the next time it goes out, I will disconnect the battery for 30 minutes and then start the car and drive to the inspection station. Do you think this will work. It should have no light on and no code stored in the computer.

Your thoughts please.
 

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Your thoughts please.
I don't think your plan will work.
That might put the light off and clear the code, but what about the OBD readiness monitors that are checked as part of the emissions test in the USA?

Again, I'm in the UK/Europe where we have different emissions standards and different methods of testing them, so I could be wrong about this too.
 

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I don't know how the checking system works either. I even think it's different from state to state here. I'm in North Carolina. Do we have any technicians on here from North Carolina that care to comment?
 

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Your post highlights the importance of have access to the correct diagnostic information. The info I have on this code points you towards the electrical circuit, not the pneumatic one (P0446 seems to deal with the pneumatic side of things).

"So I graciously bow to your superior knowledge"
, not to mention your access to superior information.

In my defense, we don't have this over complicated evap system here in Europe. Our systems don't have vent valves or pressure sensors, and as a result we have very few issues with our evap systems.

Somebody telling you a big old story,,, I aint that smart.. seen a bunch of stupid stuff

0449 here leads to CCV,, which will set with similar conditions of 0446 (I cant breath), , with 0446 not being in the XD DTC menu... 0449 was learning experience here, so if I see it anymore (rare), I know where to start.. couple quick blow through eliminate a lot real fast, or find something quick, like vent path restricted, canister restricted.. some stuff you learn on your own after getting tired of trying to make sense of Quang,, Duck,, Kim,, & Dongs' logic on the Hyundai site

See an 0446 on a old Santa Fe or old Sonata,, quick blow though and you find canister clog..
 

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UPDATE: I drove it to town and at 198076 exactly 25 miles it came back on. I doubt that 25 miles would be enough to clear the code from the computer.

Your thoughts please.

Codes do not go away on their own,, somebody need to go in with scanner and manually erase DTC from memory...
 

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Am I understanding that if I turn off the CEL and buy one of those $25 scanners I can erase the code from the DTC and it will pass inspection? WOW, if that will work I will order a scanner today. I don't have a lift and my 71 year old back is giving me fits sliding in and out under my car. The car runs great, my gas mileage is great. I don't care if the light is on after I pass inspection.
 

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Amazon has an OBD 2 scanner for $24.99 free shipping. Will that be what I need to clear the code in the DTC so it doesn't show up on the inspection station scanner?
 
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