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Sounds great Jim, that's a good sign, hopefully can save use over a thousand bucks, do you really think you needed to removed 3 motor mounts, the guy in the vid only removed the two on the sides?
 

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Sorry I just saw this, plus my laptop was down...just got done replacing my screen. Missed it!! lol

I wonder if I should also just replace the hub and clutchpacks, I've never done this before, is there a specific way the clutch packs go in, or are all the clutchpack disks identical and you just drop them into the hub?
Yes, the clutch packs DO have a certain order and the face (on friction discs) is also crucial to have facing the correct way. I agree with JimG, and don't take apart unless you see damage without its disassembly. Easy to see.

Cuba, you say the cover is very hard to get off even after unbolting, what do you suggest using to remove it? Rubber mallet, plastic prybars?
Yes it's tough at first...stuck until its seal is broken. Using a chisel and light tap along the out edge in a few spots can do the trick. The key is not to force it while cocked. There is an inner lip which is why you want to try to remove it evenly...one side then its opposite -if I can express myself well enough.
 

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Sounds great Jim, that's a good sign, hopefully can save use over a thousand bucks, do you really think you needed to removed 3 motor mounts, the guy in the vid only removed the two on the sides?
For me removing three seemed like the best way to do this. It seemed like I was stressing the other mounts when I tried to tilt the engine to gain access to the cover bolts. Not saying it can't be done by just removing two mounts or in Cuba's case just removing one. I didn't totally remove the front mount. I just removed the long bolt that ties the mount to the frame. One nut and slide out the bolt and its free to move. One other thing to watch out for when you are tilting the engine. Keep an eye on other lines and hoses that are attached to the engine like heater hoses, the fuel line, and any other items that may be stressed to the breaking point when you move the engine around.
 

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For me removing three seemed like the best way to do this. It seemed like I was stressing the other mounts when I tried to tilt the engine to gain access to the cover bolts. Not saying it can't be done by just removing two mounts or in Cuba's case just removing one. I didn't totally remove the front mount. I just removed the long bolt that ties the mount to the frame. One nut and slide out the bolt and its free to move. One other thing to watch out for when you are tilting the engine. Keep an eye on other lines and hoses that are attached to the engine like heater hoses, the fuel line, and any other items that may be stressed to the breaking point when you move the engine around.
Very good point , watch the exhaust flex pipe if you don't remove it , If it is weak at all you could wind up replacing it. I thought mine ( flex pipe ) was ok but it leaked after I did this repair so I replaced it .
 

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Yes, the clutch packs DO have a certain order and the face (on friction discs) is also crucial to have facing the correct way. I agree with JimG, and don't take apart unless you see damage without its disassembly. Easy to see.
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Ok, see, this puts me in a bind, the clutchpack seems pretty cheap, and I have no problem putting complicated things back together so I'm probably underestimating my ability to put the new clutchpacks back in, the big issue is I'll only get one shot at this and a short span of time, I can't take everything apart with the other parts on hand, excluding the clutchpacks and then discovering the clutchpacks are completely fudged and having to wait a week for the parts to come in with a transmission open and exposed to the elements. Is it fairly simple to remember the order and orientation of the clutchpacks in your experience?
 

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Does anyone have new information for the longer spline? My car threw the error code P0743, stopped going into OD. I immediately parked it, found this thread, and ordered the bearing pack and seal. I would like to order the longer spline for peace of mind, but it seems no one can find it at the moment.
 

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I dropped my pan today after getting the error code P0734 on my 2003 hyundai accent. I had already ordered the bearing pack and seal per this thread. My car shifts fine but will not enter overdrive just like everything described here. Instead of finding the pieces in the pan as described here, I found this instead. What is this, and what now? A snap ring?

 

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On second look, I found a few pieces hanging off the side of where the filter was attached. It does resemble the housing the bearings are held in. Where are all the needle bearings? I tore the filter apart and not one. Nothing on the magnets either. Could the bearing be intact on the spline still? I will find out soon.
 

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So after taking the cover off, I find no trace of the needle bearings. The housing of the thrust bearing was found in the pan, but not one bearing. How could this be? Surely there would be remnants of the needle bearings. I am a bit worried about this as an entire part seems to be missing in the transmission!
 

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Not to spam this thread with my issues, but after dealing with this problem and reading through, I have a few thoughts. I successfully repaired my car with the help of this thread and other resources. I will point out a few things that posters in here mistakenly claimed. One, the shim provided in the pack is to lay flush with the worn-down surface. This does not go on top of the thrust bearings, but below it. Also, for people not replacing the bushing in the spline, I suggest taking a second look at this. There should be NO PLAY when the spline is seated. In fact, after you press on the new bushing, you should no longer be able to just slide the spline on the shaft. I had to use a deep socket and tap the spline back onto the transmission, that's how tight it should be with the new bushing. Good luck to those doing this repair in the future. It will save you a ton.

Also, removing both side engine mounts and tilting the engine will save you a lot of trouble accessing the bolts and cover.
 

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My elation has turned to horror. I made the repair. I drove 300+ miles the past few days, shifting has never been better. Today, merging onto the highway, I dropped out of overdrive. Got home, error code P0734. Will not go into OD, same exact problem. Assuming I will open the pan and find my brand new set of thrust bearings stuck to the magnets.

I am in desperate need of help and opinions. WHY did this happen again 2 days after the fix? Everything was assembled properly. The spline was barely damaged when I added the new bushing and pieced everything back together. Nothing else was damaged. WHAT is causing this problem?

I can't get myself to fix this again as I know this will just occur a day later after being completely fine. Please, what is the cause of this?
 

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Hi SOTF, I don't know where everyone went, but I need to help my brother with this same repair, have you dropped the pan to see if the new bearings shattered again, also, are you sure the other posters were wrong about where the shim was placed? Maybe you should make another thread to address this, perhaps everyone is inadvertendly overlooking this thread since it's been stickied at the top so long, let me know what you found out, I want to avoid any pitfalls you might have encountered when helping my brother. Also, perhaps you should ask the guy in this youtube video might have happened.
DTC Code P0734 Hyundai/Slipping Transmission Fix WITT - YouTube
 

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Hopefully everyone else doesn't need to come in this thread because their car is fixed. In any case, I am still stuck. Yes, the thrust bearing blew up again after 2-3 days of this repair working great. I am on that youtube video talking to him about it currently, but there aren't any answers as to why my repair didn't last. He recommended the shim be put in the worn down section of the OD hub, so that's what I did.

It seems people claim the LONG portion of the splined shaft be facing the transmission with the SHORT end inside the OD hub/clutch. Looking at these schematics, it looks to be the opposite, or am I wrong? The diagram seems to have the longer splined section inside the OD hub?

Also, I found contradictory information on what the back of the race should be pressing against. In that video and in this thread, people suggest the needle bearings be touching the back of the race. However, I found another person suggesting the proper placement is the thrust bearing facing the OD hub/shim needle side, with the back of the thrust bearing housing touching the back of the race.

Here are the schematics: http://www.jpat.co.uk/52 Mitsubishi 1A KM170 177 A4AF3.pdf

Page 4 has the A4BF2 transmission and look, the long part of the splined shaft is facing OUT, inside the OD hub, not the short end. Am I wrong/confused?
 

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It could be. The long side goes in , short splines out. Defiantly take the cover back off. There is a clip on the back of the hub that has to pop back in the cover as you put it back on .Your transmission looks clean , I hope it goes back together better next time.


I found this pic as reference - Little differant cup race but will give you idea how shaft goes .
Telling you, either I am a complete clown, or this poster and the man in the video got it wrong. Long side OUT, short side IN as the schematic seems to indicate. Now, should the needle bearings be facing IN or OUT. Most here say needle bearings facing IN, but now I am skeptical!
 

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I haven't taken a look at the schematics yet, but your shaft splines look REALLY bad, that might be causing your problem, hopefully someone else will chime in.
 

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I'm definately not an expert or a regular here. Bummer you are having trouble getting your trans issues sorted. Mine has worked fine since I did the repair. I placed the race as shown in the video, replaced the inner bushing and reused the shaft. Unfortunately I don't have any words of wisdom to offer as to what would cause your trans to not function properly. Oh, and I did replace the little seal that fits into the end of the clutch pack.
 

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SOTF, you really need to drop the pan to see what exploded, maybe it's the solenoids this time and not the bearings, I think those can go bad and cause OD issues too.
 
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