Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 211 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I acquired this car for $350 with a broken timing belt and a transmission problem. The previous owner reported a transmission shifting problem after the car warmed up was all I was told. After doing some research on here I dropped the pan and found the bearing pieces in the pan and cleaned all the pices up, replaced with a brand new OD bearing and put it togethor with new fluid and a new filter.

I drove the car a couple of days to work without a problem. The 3rd morning, I got off the freeway and it felt like it wasnt taking off in first or shifting. Then the P0734 code popped up.

Doing some more searching on here I decided to pull the side cover back off today and do a more in depth inspection and below is what I have found:






I am thinking to just replace the entire OD assembly, and the updated longer shaft along with the washer shim that goes with the bearing since I didnt get one with my new bearing.

I need some part numbers since this information is scattered across multiple threads. Since its such a common problem, the part numbers should be compiled in this thread and stickied for future reference along with pictures of said parts.

I will reserve the second post for part numbers and pictures.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Individual parts pictures and their corresponding part numbers to help everyone identify what they may need for their repair/situation.

45840-22710: shaft assy-end clutch:
42083E: seal:


A42570L: clutch hub:


42100L:friction A4AF3 O.D. .063":


42120LD: steel A4BF O.D. .160":


42220LK: O.D. bearing kit:





The repair:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
You will find pictures just like yours and my uploaded pictures under the "P0734 1.6 Transmission Issue" and "P0734 On 2005 Accent" threads.
I got my parts for a 2006 from the Tempe dealer who got them from LA in two days:

45565 22800 Hub - End Clutch
45525 22810 Bearing ATA End Clutch
45840 22710 Shaft Assembly - End Clutch Had the inner bush inside.
THIS IS FOR THE 2006 A4AF3 box....Your picture makes the thrust race look a little different than the one in mine...Also make sure of spline length...some have noted there are differences for different years and versions.

I did not rebuild the entire clutch pack or replace the little center seal. I checked the main shaft and it had not been gauled up like the "shaft Assembly" which is really a dual splined quill shaft.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I saw your pictures in one thread, didnt look like yours suffered as much damage as mine has.
45565 22800 Hub - End Clutch
45525 22810 Bearing ATA End Clutch
45840 22710 Shaft Assembly - End Clutch Had the inner bush inside.
THIS IS FOR THE 2006 A4AF3 box....Your picture makes the thrust race look a little different than the one in mine...Also make sure of spline length...some have noted there are differences for different years and versions.
Just to clarify: 22800-Hub- this is the round part that engages the clutch pack and the bearing rides on? my bottom picture?
22810-Bearing-the bearing that always gets destroyed?
22710-shaft assembly- the large short shaft with splines at both ends? my top picture?


I was thinking to order parts from Wittrans.com, but they dont show any pictures of what I am ordering and some of the part numbers people have provided dont come up on the website.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Yes those are the correct numbers, description and pictures for the parts for my 2006 A4AF3. This is the 2.915 long spline shaft, not the 3.1XX. The bearing package number results in a four tanged washer/thrust race to fit over the big gear rather than the continuous cup shown in your picture. Also failure damage looks a little different..your hub loos like it was hitting one of the steels mid-depth in the clutch pack...Mine only damaged on the three little centering bumps. Also your spline shaft looks fairly clean....Mine and some others I have seen in the posts was really chewed up both on the outside and on the inner bushing.. Goes back to root cause...pressure loss / leakage in OD clutch actuation? Wear down of frictions?...Bad seal in end cover housing slider?...poor lube or wear on spline shaft bushing over main shaft?....

Local dealer pricing was bearing package..25, hub...59, shaft 45.

I spent the bigger bucks with the dealer rather than WIT or DACCO cause I wasn't absolutely sure on there part numbers and the clock was ticking on wife"s car down and her visiting the new car dealerships!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Excellent, thanks for the response. Those prices really are not that bad for dealer parts. Yeah my hub looks like the steel plate was spinning around it and the groove in it is certainly deep enough to allow it to happen, which is now why I think this thing is setting the code after a couple of days after putting a new bearing in, and thats also the reason I think I just want to get the entire assembly.

If your talking about that little seal that goes on the smaller skinny shaft, it is missing part of the rubber, so it would be allowing something to leak past it.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
I wouldn't claim to understand the flows and pressure levels inside the various parts of the box, but I am 99% sure leakage of that seal is a show stopper for correct end clutch engagement. If it leaks , you can't pressurize the OD clutch pack. If it were me, I would totally rebuild the end clutch, given what you have described, and understand how the groove got cut in the hub. I have seen in the forum links to a bunch of rebuild kits and even a couple of vids showing the process. Pretty simple, an inner and outer O ring, the end shaft metal- cased seal, and new frictions. if you choose. Given the groove in the hub maybe even steels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
After taking the time to examine that OD assembly further, I think your on the right track. Perhaps the original bearing getting destroyed and all the pieces floating around in there ripped the piece out of the seal causing it to loose some pressure and slip a little etc... and it was all down hill from there. Its also unknown how long the original owner drove the car with transmission problems, but given how well "cough cough" the previous owner took care of the car mechanical wise, it was probably a while.

I plan to just call WIT this coming week and see if they can help me that way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
I just had a fellow member message me for the part numbers I used. I may as well post this info publicly as well in case I delay in returning a message.

ok...these are the WIT trans part numbers I am using below, right off of my invoice....
1)thrust washer/bearing kit (has little needles): W42220LK -$21.
2)bigger correct sized splined shaft: W42675E -$42.
3)Overdrive Clutch/Gear assembly (gear with rings on inside): WU42570L -$48.
4)Overdrive Hub/Drum: WU42710L -$53.
part prices are rounded up, before tax and shipping

WIT transmission parts number 1-800-940-0197... really great customer service in my dealings with them... gentleman named Rod helped me out thoroughly a few times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for providing the part numbers and information on all this, and sending the info in the PM's

Should be ordering the parts in the next week or 2 and then I will take pictures of everything when I reassemble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
cool! just sorry I didn't see earlier in week.... can't wait to hear how it all turns out. Don't forget to drop pan and get what ever debris out that may have dropped to bottom and clean magnets.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
How do I know if I need the longer shaft? Just got mine apart and it had the 2.914 shaft and it's damaged so I'm replacing it. I'm not the first to work on this tranny, can tell by gasket material and a cross-threaded bo;thx for your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I am curious about this myself
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
As I told Quickwitted49, to my knowledge, ALL the accents with 1.6ltr and the A4AF trans have this issue. The assembly line screw up and they never corrected it....nor did a recall.... what Hyundai did was replace the whole trans at stealership, again to my knowledge they wouldn't open trans to remedy or repair. I would have to assume that some ppl were luckier than others when it came to how these parts wore down.... another common enough issue are the shift solenoids going bad but that is a different thread...lol

I also left 2 more parts & their numbers out....which would be the trans pan gasket and filter...

Pan gasket W42300L -$2.
Filter WA42010LA -$6.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
Yet another and hopefully LAST correction

Geez! I'm to the point I wanna shoot myself!.... I just keep digging up my old info and pics. I AM ANAL about trying to get everyone the right info, my invoices are too vague in the part description and I keep messing up here....
to do this fix you will NOT need WU42710L ... I copying n posting on other thread too... really wish we didn't have to go through "Mods" to edit old posts :-(

attachments: one pic showing the parts needed the other with that gear one you don't
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
300zx (for you specific)

that one piece with the multiple rings is a different part number than I had previously thought.... I did think at first that i did purchase but i was mistaken. In your particular case those rings are pretty mangled up and so is the outer "gear".... I have attachment pic with corresponding part numbers....however I am not sure now if any special tool is need to separate or remove those rings...or if WIT provides it already assembled?? :confused::(
Something to ask them. the only prob I do (now) recall was I had to make sure all those inner rings were lined up (all the teeth directly on top of eachother -I just took flathead and "slid" them around until perfect) otherwise it won't go back in trans easily

you actually may be lucky and not need special tools... one pic shows what looks like a snap ring #861 then followed by the rings and bands left to right: #140 ring, (#100 band, #120 ring, 5 of each), etc... all the way to overdrive drum #550... and you have the old one still assembled to help guide you. use plain vaseline or petroleum jelly to lightly coat everything so it is lubricated and no dry start.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
WIT told me that it was unassembled and I would have to transfer my existing "innards" to the new clutch hub. As mine had no discernable damage I passed on ordering that. I ordered my parts yesterday at 10:00 and they arrived today, except for the shaft which is coming from a different warehouse and should be here tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
548 Posts
Great news!!!.... quickwitted49 is all done his car, and says it runs and shifts great! Wtg!!! Huge pat on the back! Another person able to keep their car up and running with minimal expense with what could've been an expensive repair elsewhere.
 
1 - 20 of 211 Posts
Top