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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 Tiburon. It has 157k on it now. It's pulling the P0714 & P01624 codes and I have noticed the transmission slip once or twice here recently when I had to stomp on the gas from about 25 mph.

Looking up the code my hope is that the problem Is the TCM. Now I'm instructed to inspect the wiring, is there some multimeter application to determine if the wire is in alright?

Another suggestion states that I can use an OBII reader to monitor the ATF. If there is a change in temperature, that indicates there aren't any shorts and the TCM is working fine.

Given that there are no ATF leaks, and the fluid level is within range, IF my TCM appears to be functioning, what is my next step?

And do I have the correct procedure for diagnosing the TCM?


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... It has 157k on it now. It's pulling the P0714 & P01624 codes and I have noticed the transmission slip once or twice here recently when I had to stomp on the gas from about 25 mph.

Looking up the code my hope is that the problem Is the TCM. Now I'm instructed to inspect the wiring, is there some multimeter application to determine if the wire is in alright?

Another suggestion states that I can use an OBII reader to monitor the ATF. If there is a change in temperature, that indicates there aren't any shorts and the TCM is working fine.

Given that there are no ATF leaks, and the fluid level is within range, IF my TCM appears to be functioning, what is my next step?

And do I have the correct procedure for diagnosing the TCM?
Unlikely to be the TCM. Possibilities include: (a) the wire runs for these ATs are tight/constrained and can rub/wear against the AT or the AT mount. Check the wire run for the temp sensor. (b) ohm the sensor (disconnected, of course) - when AT fluid cold and when (operating temp) hot. Let us know what you get. (c) and, how old/aged is the AT fluid? When was fluid last flushed (not drained) and when was filter last replaced?

Cold temp sensor should be ~ 9 kohms.
 

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Probably never maintained, recently purchased with 158k. The AT fluid did look clean but a little overfilled (someone probably tried to "fix" the problem That way). I'll give the fluid the old smell test, take a look at the temperature sensor wires, & ohm test the sensor ASAP.

THANKS


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Ok so I'm Looking at the tranny and I'm wondering what these 3 sensors are/ if I need to pull the pan to get at the temperature sensor or if it's one of these 20170518_130926.jpg

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#3 is the temperature sensor right?

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No.

#1 is the AT solenoids connector. 4-wire or more, depending upon whether the car has the so-called New AT with 6 solenoids or the original AT with 4 solenoids.

#2 is the temp sensor. 2-wire with white connector (o-ring under the connector in the AT and 2 plastic white side tabs under that - be careful with those). Can ohm it from above - but, to replace, should that be the issue, involves draining the AT, removing the pan, removing the AT oil filter, then seeing and disconnecting the sensor's securing bolt (above where the filter was sitting), snaking the sensor up and out through the hole (where you see the white vertically-mounted connector), feeding in the new sensor, replacing the filter, cleaning the pan and replacing the 5 magnets, cleaning the old pan gasket away, installing a new gasket, re-installing the pan - without over-torquing the pan bolts, securing the new temp sensor in its hole, and refilling new AT fluid.

#3 is the input speed sensor (input pulse gen). Directly inside that cover is your OD hub and clutch and plates assy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok now it makes sense, that the input speed sensore would look like it does.

I Ohms tested the speed sensor....not too helpful but the two wiresets attached in that harness measured out to be (.260 - .264)

Ok I'll test the correct sensor this time!

Then when I drop the pan to change the filter I'll know if the temp sensor needs to be changed out as well or if my code is coming from something else.

Car guy said the cold Ohms reading of the sensor should be 9 Ohms. What should I expect to see if I backprobe the wiring harness or take a reading of the sensor after the car has warned up?

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SM doesn't specify resistance when operating temp, unfortunately. Think the sensor is NTC, so resistance should decline as fluid heats. Watch reading as engine idles from cold/as tranny warms up.

What do you measure? And, do you have an infrared gun you can "associate" with the resistances measures?


Also check, with ign = ON (car off), the G/W temp sensor wire and ground to ensure 5V.

Then, key out, check the other temp sensor wire - B/W - and ground for continuity.


Was you input speed sensor measured with car/tranny cold?
 

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I do have an infrared gun. How would I use that to associate with resistance measurements?

(Im new to the voltometer) When im taking a reading of the G/W and the B/W wire, are you saying that I should disconnecting the temperature sensor and back probe the wiring harness (attached to the car). If so am I still Ohms testing at this point or should my voltometer be set to something else?

What results can I expect?

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This is what I'm working with. Also I don't know if it's going to make a difference that the tip broke off the red side. But my common sense says that the metal is the same throughout so it shouldn't affect anything 20170520_142210.jpg 1495305843511.jpg

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I do have an infrared gun. How would I use that to associate with resistance measurements?

(Im new to the voltometer) When im taking a reading of the G/W and the B/W wire, are you saying that I should disconnecting the temperature sensor and back probe the wiring harness (attached to the car). If so am I still Ohms testing at this point or should my voltometer be set to something else?

What results can I expect?
Just use the gun to measure the hottest part of the AT - oil pan side/bottom, hose outlet. Get a cold measure baseline and go from there. Capture temp, note sensor resistance. Repeat 5 xs for each reading. Ensure consistency of measurement with the 2 sensor pins (alligators would help but it is narrow in that white connector) and consistency of reading. Capture as much of the oil temp ramp-up, sensor resistance ramp-down as you can, preferably from cold till full operating temp.

As the AT warms from 58-194' F (SM specs), the TCM finds it to be at operating temp.

I just measured a new OEM temp sensor. ~82' = 6.54 kohms. (Previous reading I supplied was ~62' or so, as I recall.)

I heated the sensor and yes, it is NTC. Kohms will drop as oil heats. That's what you should expect, if its working correctly.

So, to confirm the resistance of the sensor, disconnect and measure the 2 teeny round pins in the sensor's white connector. Be careful disconnecting it - it is tight in that space. Hard to manage finger-wise. Probably need to clean from around the connector thoroughly first. Measure when AT cold and hot, and while warming if possible. Use your ohm setting. That'll tell you if the sensor is operating and gradually so ... or not.

So, to confirm good signal is getting to the sensor (via the TCM), measure - with your DVOM now changed to DCV - the harness power wire with sensor disconnected or backprobed (connected). Ign = On for these measures. Red lead on the power wire, black lead on good ground [and also then on bat(-)]. Whaddaya get? Check it 5x or 10x. Should get same reading all 5 or all 10 times. Result should be around 5V, if power routing correctly from TCM through harness to harness connector.

Then, other harness B/W wire is the sensor ground. Red lead on the wire and black on good ground [and also then on bat(-)]. Back in your ohms setting for this. Whadaya get. Check 5x or 10x to ensure same reading. Result should be 0.x ohms for both checks, if ground path through harness back through TCM and back through to bat(-) is good.

The broken end of the pin should not affect the readings.

Let us know what you measure on each of these tests.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So it's clear I'm going to have to replace the wiring harness.

Now this is my roommates car and primary transportation to work about 15 miles away. Does she need to stop driving the car until I can fix it?

Ill take the cold and warm AT temp. Sensor readings During or after the wiring harness replacement.

So how do I start

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Oih ...

So, were the wires and connector already brittle and/or loose?

These aged early Hyundais develop brittle plastic connectors and wire runs in the harnesses, especially at high heat and vibration areas. And, yours (hers) is 16 or more years now. For this, Hyundai came up with option (a) below.

Remember, I had said "Be careful disconnecting it - it is tight in that space." And, this is why.

Options:
(a) Hyundai dealers were provided a full Bosch Kent-Moore (SPX) pigtail kit (kit # J46436-A), with individual pigtails; each pigtail begins with a WRKxxxxxxx alphanumeric sequence. Find a match from that kit box (in the drawers) that is the same as the temp sensor connector, with the 2 wire leads. Usually < $10 per pigtail.
(b) Cut a temp sensor pigtail run from the junkyard for the same gen Tib (or possibly same gen Elantra or Accent, if no Tibs of your gen in the JY). Pull back the loom at the JY so you can get as much wire run as possible before making the cut. "Be careful disconnecting the JY harness connector!" : - ) Disconnect it FIRST before bothering with the loom access and pull-back, in case you break this connector ... then you'll have to move on to the next Tib (and remove the air box and lower resonator and battery tray and both splash shields there all over again, to gain access).
(c) Remove the (now-disconnected) pin(s) from the harness connector; solder a new intermediate run of same gauge wire to the existing (broken) harness wire(s) - one intermediate run for each wire broken; heat shrink-wrap them and/or use liquid electrical tape (local aftermarket stores carry those cans); solder the other end of the intermediate wire run to the extracted pin(s); then, re-insert the pins into the harness connector. If doing (c)"be careful extracting the pins so THEY don't get damaged." Easily done. Lisle and other companies make connector pin extractors, and creative tool usage (from the toolbox) usually works fine. Pin replacements also widely available.

TCM uses sensor V (and various other factors) for AT solenoid control. Yours likely has 6 solenoids. So, not sure what TCM defaults to, control-wise, absent signal feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Great write up.

I had success....i went out and got a wiring harness off another Tiburon but the connectors didn't match (v6 model) and I would up removing the old pig tail, breaking away a bit of the outer clip to expose the nubby wires just enough to get the harness wire wrapped around and soldered together. The pigtail won't clip onto the sensor anymore but I wrapped the male stem (of the sensor) with some white thread tape and it seems to sit on ther snugg enough to stay for the time. Reset the code and it hasn't come back in the past 60 miles so I'm hopeful!

THANKS so much for your help guys

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