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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a Getz 1.1 Gasoline model of 2007.
The mentioned fault in the title appeared a week ago.
I checked the voltages as per this topic, and got these results:
  • left pin 12.2V
  • middle pin 11.1V
(battery voltage: 12,3V. Yeah, ok, I know it's low)

I took them as ok, so I replaced the sensor with a new one.
I erased the fault from the vehicle 's ECU and for one day it was ok.

But today the 'check engine' lamp is lighted again....:(
(with the same fault code)
What can I do now?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You 're right, I just was so sure it's ok.
I just measured between 1st and 3rd, it's 12.3V.
 

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What can I do now?
Your limited to what you can do now because further diagnosis really needs specialist equipment (Oscilloscope). The one other test you can do with your voltmeter is test that the sensor is able to switch the signal voltage.

To do that you need to remove the sensor from the engine but leave it connected to the harness.
Now back probe the center terminal of the sensor connector so you can monitor the signal voltage with the sensor connected to the harness.
With the voltmeter connected, switch the ignition on and see what voltage you get on the meter. With a genuine Hyundai sensor the output is normally high (11~12V).
Now place something metallic close to the face of the sensor and the signal voltage should switch low (approx 0V). Move the metal away from the sensor and the voltage should switch high again.
The voltage output is often inverted on an aftermarket sensor, which can cause a cam sensor code on some engines. An inverted signal upsets the phasing of the cam and crank sensor signals.
 

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It says cam shaft position circuit??
Doesn't that mean it could be the wiring, connectors, sensor or ECU??

And if the OP moved the wires then it could have worked until the vibration .... never mind
 

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It says cam shaft position circuit??
Doesn't that mean it could be the wiring, connectors, sensor or ECU??
Yes, it "could" be any of those things. We're just trying to nail down which of them it actually is. That's what diagnosis is all about.
 

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Sorry, you were talking about aftermarket cam sensors
and inverted signal that I thought you believed it was the sensor
 

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I thought you believed it was the sensor
The circuit voltage measurements so far all look good, and generally when the voltages are correct it is the sensor that has failed. So in my mind the sensor is the prime suspect right now.

If I was diagnosing this fault myself I would scope the cam and crank signals and compare my scope trace to the known good trace in the shop manual. If the scope trace showed the sensor signal was inverted (ie 180 degrees out of phase) that would be a sensor failure even although the sensor is switching the signal voltage. The code description mentions circuit malfunction but it is actually incorrect signal phasing that triggers the P0340 code on the engine we're working with here.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
To do that you need to remove the sensor from the engine but leave it connected to the harness.
Now back probe the center terminal of the sensor connector so you can monitor the signal voltage with the sensor connected to the harness.
With the voltmeter connected, switch the ignition on and see what voltage you get on the meter. With a genuine Hyundai sensor the output is normally high (11~12V).
Now place something metallic close to the face of the sensor and the signal voltage should switch low (approx 0V). Move the metal away from the sensor and the voltage should switch high again.
I did this test and behaves exactly as you describe.
When no metallic object near the sensor, the signal voltage is High (I measured from 12V up to 14.7V).
When I move the metallic object away from the sensor, the signal voltage goes Low (close to 0V).
So, I guess, it behaves as expected.
 

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I did this test and behaves exactly as you describe.
When no metallic object near the sensor, the signal voltage is High (I measured from 12V up to 14.7V).
That sounds good.

panoss said:
When I move the metallic object away from the sensor, the signal voltage goes Low (close to 0V).
This seems to contradict what you just said above though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Sorry, MY MISTAKE!!
When something metallic gets close to the sensor, it goes Low.
When I move away the metallic, it goes High.
(sorry..)

EDIT: also I noticed it was leaking....
The rubber O-ring that is supposed to seal the sensor, had half (!!) the thickness of the original.
I replaced the O-ring with the one from the original sensor.
I hope it doesn't leak now.
 

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Sorry, MY MISTAKE!!
No problem. I guessed it was just a typo.

Sounds like the sensor is working just like it should. I'm not sure why your code keeps coming back.
As I said above, I would now scope the cam & crank sensor outputs and compare my scope trace to a known good trace from the factory manual. But that's not something many folk can do DIY.

Below is a scope trace from an 1100 Getz engine (thanks Monkums) with the known good trace from the factory manual inset. Notice that this car has been fitted with an aftermarket crank sensor and it's signal is inverted compared to the OEM sensor.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
I sent a message at Kavo parts (the manufacurer of the sensor) and they answered me:
'I have checked it for you and you need the ECA-3018.
The ECA-5501 is for models older than 2007'

So, according to Kavo, I bought the wrong part!

Can please someone more experienced than me tell me which is the correct part?
My car 's VIN: KMHBT31GP6U162868
Motor code: G4HG
 

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Sorry, I can't help you with that, but it sounds like Kavo part No. ECA-3018 is the correct part.
The other option is pop into your local Hyundai dealer and give them your VIN. They will be able to sell you the correct part for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
(they told me from Kavo parts that I, finally, got the correct part ECA-5501. My original Sensor had this number written on it: 39310-38050)

I visited an auto service shop, they checked it and told me I 'll have to go to the Huyndai 's dealership service...
Because only they have the necessary diagnostic machines...

BUT meanwhile, sine I replaced the sensor, I have an oil leakage at the sensor!!!
I can't understand what on earth I did wrong as it has nothing I can do wrong:
-it only has a rubber o-ring, no gasket, nothing
-it only has a bolt that holds it in place, I screwed it tightly, but not too much because it's plastic. But tight enough.

Why on earth is it leaking? I have unscrewed and screwed back 4 times to see what's going on but found nothing!

I have put the o-ring as in the picture:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I tried the new O-ring that comes with the new sensor but it's the same thing, it leaks too.
I tried and the old O-ring, same.

I cleaned as much as I could as there is no optical contact with this part of the engine, I can't really see what 's happening there. Only tactile 'vision', with fingers.
 
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