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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is the second time when I get those codes. I replaced the camshaft sensor with a cheap Chinese one less than a year ago, and now I got the codes again.
Since that was not a time consuming replacement (after I figured it out first time with help from @jasper180268 ) I opted again for a $13 sensor from Amazon. Installed it yesterday, cleaned the O2 sensor harness from oil residue. Both codes disappeared when I started the car.

Hopefully this time will last longer.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
False hope. Same codes reappeared. Funny is that car still drives the same...
 

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False hope. Same codes reappeared. Funny is that car still drives the same...
In one of my EFs, I tested & cleaned the harness/connection (OK) and replaced Cam sensor with a genuine Hyundai OEM one and I still get codes on that car too, then I started getting upstream O2 sensor codes as well and the tranny went into limp mode. Again, I tested the circuit and replaced the O2 sensor. No change.

That was using my OBDLink LX bluetooth scanner (with the car scanner app from Google Play Store), so I ordered a Foxwell NT530 OBD1 scanner, which has just arrived but I'm yet to use it and see if it reveals anything any further clues...
 

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I have found the cam and crank sensors start playng up when the engine gets hot causing the engine to cut out till it cools down.
Interesting. I haven't come across that with any of mine before. Will be very interested to hear further when you find the root cause of the problem. All I can think is that there is something in the wiring circuit that triggers with environmental heat (assuming you've already replaced the sensor previously?).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I looked at the wires, they seem to be OK now. What are the chances that the sensors are "killed" by the ECU?
The camshaft sensor can also go bad because of overheating issues? Car temperature seems normal (on dash).
I didn't look on the ECU connector side.
I would probe the physical sensor wires and look at the signals with an oscilloscope.
If I had one, I would try. ECU says there's a problem there, but... the car starts and runs almost normal.
What is using for synchronization of ignition (if not the camshaft position sensor)? I bet is the crankshaft one.
 

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I wouldn't think the ECU would damage a sensor. The sensor should have power and earth with the other being the output signal. The unfortunate thing is by the time someone tests it's it's cooled down and working again. If I suspect one of the sensors I drive the car till it cuts out then pour cold water on it. If it starts then I suspect it's a sensor. Somethimes the wiring gets cooked and shorts out. I recently tested a Nissan and was watching the output on a scope (as suggested by Circuitsmith) and when the car started missing you could se a loss of output signal.
 

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FWIW the output signal on cheap aftermarket sensors is often inverted which can cause the P0340 code.

Have you checked the fuel trim values to see why 1167 is being logged?


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
FWIW the output signal on cheap aftermarket sensors is often inverted which can cause the P0340 code.
Really? I paid $13 on it, better be good :ROFLMAO:
The OE one is $140 !!! (Called TDC sensor).
I wonder if does it have a marking on it?
Have you checked the fuel trim values to see why 1167 is being logged?
Yeah, the fuel trims are out of wack. Probably two separate faults?
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did manage to get an OE sensor from eBay, at lower price, $25.
It was advertised as "OE" so I took my chance. Indeed, it came in a sealed bag, with OE barcode, and it has markings on the body itself (as opposed of the no-name one).
Installed in the car and for now the light is off and my daughter said the car drove better - acceleration from stop is smooth, not jerky like before.
Strange is that both codes disappeared.

Knock on wood, we'll see if it stays that way.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Back to report that the car did a longer round-trip (3 hours each direction, mostly highway, but some traffic slow downs too) and it worked properly. None of the codes returned, no more hesitation during accelerating.

Lesson learned. Old stock OE sensor, in original package, and with markings on the sensor's body, did the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I got bitten again by some Chinese part, on my other car:
 
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