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Discussion Starter #1
Hi good day, i need some info regarding my 2007 2.2 diesel Santafe, in the last few weeks my car kept stalling and engine light come on, by turning the ignition of and on a couple of times got it going again or just luck. I connected a scan tool and got the code P0336 crankshaft position sensor circuit A. I've replaced the sensor and the car does not start at all, i then swapped the old sensor back and car still not starting, my first assumption were that the new sensor i bought may be faulty so i had it replaced with second new sensor but the car still not starting, the dtc P0336 still remains, does anyone know what is the output voltage ment to be from the ECM to crankshaft position sensor ? I've checked the voltage to crank sensor and found it is 2.4 volts, but 5 volts on the camshaft position sensor, i dont know if it's normal or to low, please advise and tha
 

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I've checked the voltage to crank sensor and found it is 2.4 volts, but 5 volts on the camshaft position sensor, i dont know if it's normal or to low, please advise
I think that's normal for your crank sensor, which is a VRS type sensor. The cam sensor uses a different sensor technology (hall effect) which is why the voltages are different.

At the crank sensor harness connector I think you should have the same voltage on two of the terminals and 0V on the third (sensor disconnected).

On the cam sensor connector one outer terminal should show 12V, the center should show 5V and the other outer should be 0V. Connecting across the two outer terminals should show 12V.
 

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Thanks for the reply, mine measured exactly that, do you know of any other related faults that might cause this P0336 code to be active. I've
 

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If you erase the trouble code then check for codes again before cranking the engine is the code logged again at that point or does it only get logged again after you crank the engine?

Does your scan tool allow you to view engine sensor data? If so find engine speed/RPM on the data list and monitor it during crank. Does it show a plausible value (should be about 250~300RPM during crank)?
 

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Cleared the code, when turning the engine the code come right back, can see the rpm is in range with your data on the scan tool.
 

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Update: managed to start the car, by disconnecting the boost sensor and cranking it then reconnect the boost sensor and with help of quick start spray it run, the dtc P0336 still active but when you turn the engine off it doesn't start and code still present, any advice
 

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any advice
Yeah, leave the boost pressure sensor connected and try to start it using the spray. You want to identify which of the two actions you took is the one that actually got it running.

If the spray doesn't get it started with the boost pressure sensor connected take a look at the boost pressure sensor output on the scan tool data list. Is it showing a plausible value? It should show atmospheric pressure with the ignition on and the engine not running (approx 1Bar/29.5"Hg/14.5psi).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Managed to start the car with boost sensor connected and help of quick start spray, seems the presure is also in range with your data. After running the car for a bit last night it started without any spray but when you leave for a while it wouldn't start without spray.
I also noticed a second code P0101 mas or volume air flow circuit performance or out of range, please see attached photos of scan tool, do you think that the airflow sensor might be buggard. The P0336 cide is still present.
440393
 

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Any suggestions AUTOSPARK
MAF range/performance codes are often a symptom of an EGR leak. And EGR leaks can cause the engine to stall, usually when you come off the throttle, and can also stop the engine from starting. So blanking off one of the EGR flanges might be worth a try to see if that makes any difference. Basically you just want to stop exhaust gas from getting back into the inlet. The EGR system is usually made up of several pipes connected by flanges. What I usually do is loosen off a convenient flange and insert a piece of card (think cereal box) into the slot that is created. The card blocks the flow of exhaust gas into the inlet which will sometimes allow the engine to start. If that gets the engine started then you know your on the right track and can then go to the trouble of removing the EGR valve and cleaning it.

The other thing that can cause your symptoms (wont cold start without starting spray) is low fuel pressure. On a CRDi management system the PCM wont trigger the fuel injectors until a specific pressure has built up in the fuel rail. If there is a fuel leak the engine driven high pressure pump can't build enough pressure in the rail to get the injectors firing, so the engine just cranks and cranks. When you spray starting fluid into the inlet the engine will fire up on the fluid, increasing engine speed. That in turn allows the engine driven pump to build more pressure in the rail, exceeding the specific pressure required to start the injectors firing. Once that happens the engine will run OK and everything is good again, usually until the next cold start....sound familiar?

You can test fuel pressure by measuring the voltage output of the rail pressure sensor. On a Bosch system like yours there is usually an electrical device attached to each end of the rail. The pressure sensor is the device with 3 wires. The other device is the pressure control solenoid which has only 2 wires. The sensor signal voltage can be measured by back probing the centre wire on the harness connector. With the ignition on the sensor should output 0.5V. That needs to increase to about 1V during crank before the injectors will fire. If the voltage doesn't get high enough the engine will never start.

BTW, I think the pressure sensor measurement is easier than blanking the EGR, so I would check this first. I like to start simple and work up to the more difficult tasks.

Backprobe Centre Wire


Sensor Output Voltage Trace - Notice 0.5V KOEO, 1V to start injection
and approx 2 seconds between start of crank and the engine firing up.

440405
 
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