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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey YFers,

Had this problem for a few weeks now. Kinda strapped for cash so having issues fixing this. I did a recent turbo, throttle body and intake valve clean using CRC Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner along with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner. i gained fuel economy and power back almost instantly. A few days after this was done, I hear a weird start. A sort of pop and high pitch whine, sounded like a belt squeal. But no belt was squealing. Did a quick inspection of my clamps and hoses and tighten what I could but still no power. I take it past 2000rpm and a whooshing sound kicks in but no boost or power. Drives like a regular 4cyl without a turbo.

Anybody else gone through this or know what it could be? HELP!!!!
 

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Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
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It's driving like 4cyl without a turbo because that's basically what it is. You have a boost leak and the whooshing sound is your boost pressure escaping. You might have a split hose or maybe a hole in the intercooler (is it mounted forward of the radiator?). The problem is the leak might not show up until the system is under boost making it difficult to trace. In the workshop we have a tool that pressurises the system then we just follow the sound of the escaping air to the leak. A spray bottle of soapy water helps pin point exactly where the hole is.
 

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Woooosh sound, no power,, shouldnt be hard to find...

Follow tubing from turbo (compressor) outlet (elbow) there by GDI pump down past air filter box with blow off valve to intercooler,,, is line attached to top of intercooler ??

Look down at bottom of intercooler,, is line attached at bottom ??

Follow lower tube to throttle body,,, is it attahced to throttle body ??

Visual the duct work for any other place it may have seperated besides the primary joints I have listed

Has assistant work throttle while you stand outside and follow sound to source of leak
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I will check this out. I have a bunch of screen shots from my scan tool. This is at idle after a 5 minute drive. Does any of this jargon mean anything to anyone! Do I have a different problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It's driving like 4cyl without a turbo because that's basically what it is. You have a boost leak and the whooshing sound is your boost pressure escaping. You might have a split hose or maybe a hole in the intercooler (is it mounted forward of the radiator?). The problem is the leak might not show up until the system is under boost making it difficult to trace. In the workshop we have a tool that pressurises the system then we just follow the sound of the escaping air to the leak. A spray bottle of soapy water helps pin point exactly where the hole is.
The intercooler is mounted off the right and back of the rad next to the fan if you were looking into the engine bay. Hoping it’s not a hole in the IC. Everything is stock in this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
See responses below.

Woooosh sound, no power,, shouldnt be hard to find...

Follow tubing from turbo (compressor) outlet (elbow) there by GDI pump down past air filter box with blow off valve to intercooler,,, is line attached to top of intercooler ??

-line looks attached. Gave it a tug and seems secure.

Look down at bottom of intercooler,, is line attached at bottom ??

-looks the same. Gave a tug and feels secure. Reposition the clamp but looks a little rusty. I do line in Canada so rust is a given.

Follow lower tube to throttle body,,, is it attahced to throttle body ??

-I tighten the screw clamps after I did the TB clean.

Visual the duct work for any other place it may have seperated besides the primary joints I have listed

-I will have to jack up the car to start after the turbo.

Has assistant work throttle while you stand outside and follow sound to source of leak
 

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Nothing really jumps out in your screen shots but the fault your experiencing wont show with the engine at idle.

The value you want to monitor during test drive is the boost pressure. It's showing 84.89 (kpa, I assume) in your screen shot. That value should increase to about 200 under full throttle acceleration.

I was just asking about the position of the IC because they can sometime get damaged by stones or other road debris when they are mounted right at the front of the car.
 

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Nothing really jumps out in your screen shots but the fault your experiencing wont show with the engine at idle.

The value you want to monitor during test drive is the boost pressure. It's showing 84.89 (kpa, I assume) in your screen shot. That value should increase to about 200 under full throttle acceleration.

I was just asking about the position of the IC because they can sometime get damaged by stones or other road debris when they are mounted right at the front of the car.

We not seen issue with stuff punch hole in the cooler in the yrs Turbo been on road..

Seen a handfull long ago that blew line off inlet to coler, or at throttle body


Here again, if you can hear it,, have assistant work throttle while you listen in engine comartment if noise that loud
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Autospark,

I will keep an eye at the boost pressure during my drive but should I open it full throttle with this issue? I've been driving it like my granny so that I don't hear that cool but dreaded noise.

What about waste gate voltage? I've been researching and I'm wondering if its too high at 4.21V. If it is, whats the fix?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sbr711,

Are you saying this is rare? The IC is behind the grill and front bumper so its not that exposed to the elements.

When i punch the throttle in park, i do hear a nice throaty noise coming from that area. Sounds cool but it wasn't there before.

I will try and post a video later after a cold start.
 

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but should I open it full throttle with this issue?
It wont do any harm.

OnPointRich said:
What about waste gate voltage? I've been researching and I'm wondering if its too high at 4.21V. If it is, whats the fix?
I doubt the waste gate is your problem. You wouldn't be hearing the air leaking if it was. But I don't know what the voltage is supposed to be so I'll refer your question to @sbr711 who is in the know about these things.
 

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It wont do any harm.


I doubt the waste gate is your problem. You wouldn't be hearing the air leaking if it was. But I don't know what the voltage is supposed to be so I'll refer your question to @sbr711 who is in the know about these things.
Wastegate voltage ideally 3.9 - 4.0 volt per TSB for offending DTC.. Rotate end at gate' lever.... NOT THE ROD...

Adjust should ideally be done cold,, make adjust, cycle key on - off 3 time... turn power on, check voltage..

4.2V current, shorted 1/2 turn of link and do voltage check as called above
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Wastegate voltage ideally 3.9 - 4.0 volt per TSB for offending DTC.. Rotate end at gate' lever.... NOT THE ROD...

Adjust should ideally be done cold,, make adjust, cycle key on - off 3 time... turn power on, check voltage..

4.2V current, shorted 1/2 turn of link and do voltage check as called above
So I guess my waste gate is running higher voltage than normal. No DTC for this though so what would be the benefit of adjusting this voltage? Only DTC is P0299 - underboost / low boost pressure.

I've seen a youtube video on a guy adjusting the rod and not the "lever" (not sure what part that is, a diagram might help). So you are saying NOT to turn the rod? What does "shorted 1/2 turn" mean? Which way do I turn it and can I do this by hand? Does the rod have to come off to do this? Wish there was video for this trick.
 

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12-EM-003

We is adjusting the rod end,,, not the rod..

Remove bolt from turbo cover, bow it out of way to expose wastegate lever,,, use 10mm wrench and break loose the locknut

Remove retainer from wastegate lever pin and slide rod end off

Rotate 1/2 turn to shorten overall length, set back onto pin, lightly snug nutto hold

Cycle key on - off 3x in a slow fashion, ending with key on

Re-check voltage value,, if good, snug up the nut a wee bit more and call it a day
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the tip sbr711... I may try this but a little intimidated by its complexity.

I am however going to try and build a boost leak tester. Have you or anybody else here built one? How would i go about testing for a leak? Was going to visit an auto parts store and Home Depot to build a DIY version. What parts should I buy? What's the diameter of the turbo inlet hose? Could be hard considering the location of our turbos. Should I cap off before the throttle body to close of the intercooling hoses? Trying to find this pesky leak without taking it to the stealership!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE:

Found out the leak is coming from my intercooler... FML

$600 bucks to replace OE. Does anybody know if the Optima one fits in the same place? Mounts and all? I found a scrap yard that has one for an Optima for $150. I do notice the part numbers are different by one number so unsure of fitment.

212712G200 - 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
212712G100 - 2011 Kia Optima Turbo

Am I better off going aftermarket OE fit or go to an upgrade?
 

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UPDATE:

Found out the leak is coming from my intercooler... FML

$600 bucks to replace OE. Does anybody know if the Optima one fits in the same place? Mounts and all? I found a scrap yard that has one for an Optima for $150. I do notice the part numbers are different by one number so unsure of fitment.

212712G200 - 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
212712G100 - 2011 Kia Optima Turbo

Am I better off going aftermarket OE fit or go to an upgrade?
Join the various facebook groups and see if anyone has a stock IC they want to sell you for cheap. Be specific with your question, there are a lot of different cars in most of the groups.

KDM for Sale
KDM Parts for Sale
Sonata Society
Korean Automotive Tuning Association
KDM Alliance
 

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Find someone who upgraded to FMIC and see if they'll sell ya their stock :)
 

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UPDATE:

Found out the leak is coming from my intercooler... FML

$600 bucks to replace OE. Does anybody know if the Optima one fits in the same place? Mounts and all? I found a scrap yard that has one for an Optima for $150. I do notice the part numbers are different by one number so unsure of fitment.

212712G200 - 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
212712G100 - 2011 Kia Optima Turbo

Am I better off going aftermarket OE fit or go to an upgrade?
Pics of damage / leak ??

Anything that a good TIG person could weld up ??

Any local race or weld shops that do laser weld around area,, aluminum is easy
 
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