[Alucard911]

Hello everyone, i was having cylinder misfires earlier this year so i changed out the spark plugs and ignition coils but soon after i started experiencing lack of acceleration stuttering and hesitation and a very low idle which would cause stalling when i was stuck in traffic. I finally got a error code saying p0106. It linked to the map sensor si cleaned the throttle body and replaced the map sensor after installing the new map sensor acceleration is a little but immediately it gave me another check engine light with a different error code p0113 linking to the iat sensor. Im driving a 2017 hyundai elantra value edition with a 2.0 engine.

 

[mmahamm]

...so... do you have a question for the forum? Or just sharing your story?

 

[Alucard911]

Oh well i just wanted to know if the code is linked to the changing of the map sensor.

 

[Drunken Elvis]

Sites like this can help educate us all.

Error Code P0113: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input

Error code P0113 indicates that the computer has received a high voltage signal from the intake air temperature sensor.

autoservicecosts.com

A quick search indicated your car does not have a Mass airflow sensor, just a MAP sensor and the MAP sensor uses a 4 wire plug. This indicate to me [ just a guess ] that the MAP sensor includes the Temp inlet sensor. So, yes, the code you are getting could be related to the new MAP sensor. I do not have the necessary manuals to confirm this, so it is only a guess.
Good Luck

 

[Alucard911]

Sites like this can help educate us all.

Error Code P0113: Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input

Error code P0113 indicates that the computer has received a high voltage signal from the intake air temperature sensor.

autoservicecosts.com

A quick search indicated your car does not have a Mass airflow sensor, just a MAP sensor and the MAP sensor uses a 4 wire plug. This indicate to me [ just a guess ] that the MAP sensor includes the Temp inlet sensor. So, yes, the code you are getting could be related to the new MAP sensor. I do not have the necessary manuals to confirm this, so it is only a guess.
Good Luck

Yes I figured as much judging by this diagram i found online

https://f01.justanswer.com/EricFromCT/f0f134d0-69e3-4a55-b7ba-0791f05dbc5d_iat.pdf

I just wanted a second set of eyes but it seems i may have a defective one. The part has a warrenty so ill be taking it back to autozone tonight and getting another one

Thanks for the answer.

 

[NDSE]

I remember reading a mechanic on another forum cleaned the throttle body on an Elantra and it threw a code. I think it had something to do with the relearn procedure. Here is one posted for older models.

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/hyundai-throttle-body-cleaning-relearn/

 

[mclasser]

Why are you replacing all those things yourself? Are you out of warranty?

 

[Alucard911]

Why are you replacing all those things yourself? Are you out of warranty?

Yea unfortunately 60,000 miles im at 78k.

 

[Alucard911]

Got the new map sensor and installed it yesterday. The check engine light went away but my lack of engine power and stalling at low rpms when the engine is warmed is is still there

 

[NicholasD]

EPA has a mandatory 80K mile or 8 year warranty on all emission control devices such as the MAP sensor, PCV sensor that sounds more like your problems and also a good question as do these fall under the 5 or 10 year PT warranty.

Positive crankcase ventilation has been a problem on many vehicle returning all that crap from the crankcase back into the throttle body to jam that throttle by wire where people are not smart enough to kill the ignition switch and get themselves killed.

When it first came out in the 60's was fed to the base of the carburetor, had more common sense back then but have to follow the rules of the EPA.

Are you purchasing OEM components or more crap from China?

 

[Alucard911]

EPA has a mandatory 80K mile or 8 year warranty on all emission control devices such as the MAP sensor, PCV sensor that sounds more like your problems and also a good question as do these fall under the 5 or 10 year PT warranty.

Positive crankcase ventilation has been a problem on many vehicle returning all that crap from the crankcase back into the throttle body to jam that throttle by wire where people are not smart enough to kill the ignition switch and get themselves killed.

When it first came out in the 60's was fed to the base of the carburetor, had more common sense back then but have to follow the rules of the EPA.

Are you purchasing OEM components or more crap from China?

some oem some from auto shops that carry brands like duralast or autolite i dont mess with ebay and chinese parts after watching my dad do it and causing more problems to the engine on his van back in the early 00s

 

[Alucard911]

So i changed changed pcv valve, when i removed it it was covered in and shook it, it didnt rattle the way its supposed to so i replaced it but im still having the lack of power in the engine and stalling at low speeds. My only other guess would be the fue filter.

 

[NicholasD]

PCV is nothing more than a check valve, can blow air through it in one direction, blocked in the other direction. Gases in the crankcase that goes all the way up through the intake manifold, can only go through the PCV into the air intake.

Major cause of a misfire is dirty over gapped, or loose spark plugs, another is water in the gas.

Last daughter had problems with water in the gas, kept on telling her to fill up at a station a mile from home, filled up at a station 6 blocks that was notorious for water in their gas and for awhile was charging 4 and a half bucks for that crap.

With fuel injected engines really need a fuel pressure gauge, had to buy a good one in 1985. Can hot wire the in tank fuel pump, another really stupid place to put it, and has means to pump that fuel into a container.

At times had to drive 100 miles to save on a towing cost because she had water in her tank. Finally wised up/

 

[Alucard911]

PCV is nothing more than a check valve, can blow air through it in one direction, blocked in the other direction. Gases in the crankcase that goes all the way up through the intake manifold, can only go through the PCV into the air intake.

Major cause of a misfire is dirty over gapped, or loose spark plugs, another is water in the gas.

Last daughter had problems with water in the gas, kept on telling her to fill up at a station a mile from home, filled up at a station 6 blocks that was notorious for water in their gas and for awhile was charging 4 and a half bucks for that crap.

With fuel injected engines really need a fuel pressure gauge, had to buy a good one in 1985. Can hot wire the in tank fuel pump, another really stupid place to put it, and has means to pump that fuel into a container.

At times had to drive 100 miles to save on a towing cost because she had water in her tank. Finally wised up/

How can you tell you have water in the gas? Is there A way to get it out if it’s already in there?

as for the spark plugs I’ll check the gap on each later but i don’t think that’s it as I’m not having misfires anymore. My engine literally gives out and stalls at speeds lower than 20, or when coming to a stop. And i have a severe lack of acceleration and a little bit of hesitation when going in the higher speeds.
but I’ll check the gaps again.

 

[avisitor]

Did you disconnect the battery before changing sensors?
If you did then it might be a relearn process for the ECU??
Just guessing

 

[NicholasD]

No relearning in the Elantra, stored in ram like your photographs in your cell phone. Relearning ended in 1995. Ha, in my 88 Supra Turbo, calibrated all the sensors to factory specifications, it had nothing to learn by disconnecting the battery. Automotive means to save a couple of cents by widening the specifications for these way overpriced cheap sensors.

Was getting misfire in my 2017 Limited with only 4,000 miles on it with those Yura spark plugs, have tons of test equipment, were breaking down at 3KV. Just switched to Autolite XP5702 plugs gaped at 25 mils, with 30K miles on it, still running perfectly.

With that fuel pressure gauge, lets you pour fuel into a container, can see the water on the gas.. Couple cans of Heet may help, but try a busier gas station.

 

[AUTOSPARK]

My engine literally gives out and stalls at speeds lower than 20, or when coming to a stop. And i have a severe lack of acceleration and a little bit of hesitation when going in the higher speeds.

I assume you have no trouble codes logged now? If you do take a look at the freeze frame data that was recorded when the code was logged.
Have you checked the MAP sensor output on your scan tool data list? What pressure is displayed with the ignition switched on and the engine off?
Is the engine able to idle? If so, what pressure is shown with the engine at idle?

Have you tried cleaning the throttle valve? That might cure the stalling problem.

 

[Alucard911]

• I assume you have no trouble codes logged now? If you do take a look at the freeze frame data that was recorded when the code was logged.
  Have you checked the MAP sensor output on your scan tool data list? What pressure is displayed with the ignition switched on and the engine off?
  Is the engine able to idle? If so, what pressure is shown with the engine at idle?
  
  Have you tried cleaning the throttle valve? That might cure the stalling problem.

  My scan tool doesnt read the data from the car and can only read the codes. But yea i have none now. Its able to idle. It only stalls when im constantly going slow like when stick in traffic. And its only after having driven for a while. As for the throttle valve do you mean the throttle body. If so then yes i did. For a car thats been driving around for 70k miles it wasnt all that bad. Except for a smallish carbon ring on the opposite side lf the butterfly.

 

[Alucard911]

Alright so an update. I changed the fuel filter. Drove like a charm after giving a test drive then as arrived to the garage door the car sputtered and stalled once again. I cranked it a few times thinking maybe there just wasn't enough fuel pressure yet after having removed the fuel pump fuel prior and draining the lines before changing the filter. But no. I cranked it about 5 times on that last crank it turned over and came alive enough to open the garage door and roll into the garage and get it out of the street for now. I took a look at it again and learned the fuel pump wasn't priming. I had a buddy put his ear to the access hatch under the rear passenger seat to see if he heard anything. But nothing. all we could hear was the clicking and slight hum of the fuse box trying to get power to it but nothing. I went to the box to see if the fuse for it was ok. it was. I changed it just in case with a similar fuse from a less important accessory and still nothing. I over nighted the part from Hyundaypartsdeal.com but because this happened over the new year. took a good minute to get to me. after it did get to me. I took my time in taking the pump assembly apart noting where everything went again just like when i did the filter. after about an hour of taking my time. I put everything back where it was with new pump in tow. i plugged in the fuse again and reconnected the negative battery terminal. i turned the key to accessory to prime the pump and filter. low and behold it kicks on. I turned the key and it turned on with no cranking. I test drove the car after warming it up and its driving alot better. the struts aren't that good so thats a contributing factor to the comfortability of the ride. but for right now its a **** of alot better than before. so far it hasn't stalled at low speeds or coming to a stop. so i think the problem may have been low fuel pressure. strange it didn't trigger a check engine code for it.

 

[Drunken Elvis]

This is good to hear. Glad you came back to update us all. I really thought it was not the fuel pump as it was stalling at low speed when the fuel pump has less work to do. Normally a weak pump cannot supply enough fuel to drive at high speeds. Good job!