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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
I have recently been having trouble with my 2012 Elantra GLS dieing overnight (complete battery discharge) and have become very annoyed by it. I believe the issue started after my car was in a front end accident where the complete front bumper, fog light and headlight were all replaced. After I had these repairs (or about 2 months after) the car would seem to drain completely overnight. After dealing with it by simply jump starting it every morning I am about at my wits end due to the cold weather so I did what anyone probably would do and replaced the battery. I ended up getting a Duralast Gold from Sears and I thought that would fix the issue but much to my dismay, it did not.

The next thing that I did was to test for a parasitic draw on the battery. I did this using a multimeter and by pulling fuses one by one till I found the problem circuit. I started with the fuse box in the engine compartment and when I yanked the B+3 Fuse for the smart junction box, the amperage draw (which was bouncing between 1.5 and 12) dropped to a steady 0.2. After finding this out I proceeded to pull the corresponding fuses in the inside fuse box by the steering wheel column. I figured out that the B+3 circuit contains Module 1, PDM 1 and 2, Dr Lock and something called Leak Current Autocut Device. I was able to pull all of these fuses to check and see if it narrowed it down even further except for the Autocut Device however this did nothing. It would seem that the only way to get rid of parasitic draw is by removing the fuse in the engine compartment for B+3. Unfortunately this isn't a fuse I can live without as my car will not shift without it.

Has anyone had this issue or possibly know what could be causing the problem? Is there some sort of work around till I can afford to have someone take a look at the circuit? Am I completely off? I have been removing the fuse at night and putting it back in in the morning just to avoid having to jump the car.

Any advice would be appreciated!
 

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Sounds like you've done everything correctly up to this point, take it in to shop and get it fixed if you don't want to troubleshoot to the source any further. I believe the parasitic current draw on these vehicles is rated for less than .050 amps.

How long does your current draw top out at 12 amps for? 12 amps is a lot, definitely enough to heat something up (150 watts). You could possibly find the problem by finding whatever is getting warm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like you've done everything correctly up to this point, take it in to shop and get it fixed if you don't want to troubleshoot to the source any further. I believe the parasitic current draw on these vehicles is rated for less than .050 amps.

How long does your current draw top out at 12 amps for? 12 amps is a lot, definitely enough to heat something up (150 watts). You could possibly find the problem by finding whatever is getting warm.

The amp rating bounces up and down. It doesn't stay at 12 for more then 1/8th of a second before it starts to fall back own to below 1 amp, and then it bounces back up 2 amps, 3, 5, 10, 12 and then back down to start over again.
 

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If you ask nicely, @wongpfh might post the power distribution diagram for fuse B+3. That'll show you all the components that are powered by that fuse, which I'm sure would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think i'll check the Media 1, Memory and Interior lamp fuses.. As for the devices that are controlled past the leak autocut, are those accessible? Do they have a fuse somewhere or is it a matter of manually checking the wiring? Or better yet, is there a way for me to pull the leak autocut to narrow it down?
 

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I think i'll check the Media 1, Memory and Interior lamp fuses...As for the devices that are controlled past the leak autocut, are those accessible?
The three fuses your going to check are what's controlled by the leak autocut devise. That's all there is in the circuit.

BTW, how long are you measuring the current drain for?
Do you know it can take 15~20mins for all the electrics to switch off?

You should connect your Ammeter in series with the battery then leave it switched off for 20min (to save the battery), then switch it on and take your measurement. And obviously make sure all the doors & the trunk are closed too or your measurement wont be valid. If your pulling fuse from the dash fusebox it would be best to remove & disconnect the driver's door pin switch to ensure the interior light timing circuit isn't being activated.

Did you know that pulling fuses on a modern car can sometimes actually increase the current draw from the battery? It can wake up control units that are connected to the CAN data bus. A better technique is to leave the fuses in place and use your voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across the fuse. The voltage drop across the fuse is proportional to the current flowing through it.
 

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HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEEEEEEEEEEE............ You said front end wreck....


Get to where you can use remote on the car

Hit the lock button on remote 2 times consecutive.. should see lights flash,,, BUT,,,,,,, did it chirp / tweet / honk back at you with 2nd push...

Yes, all is well

No......... likely hood switch pad missing from hood if hood replaced.....verify switch in place too
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The three fuses your going to check are what's controlled by the leak autocut devise. That's all there is in the circuit.

BTW, how long are you measuring the current drain for?
Do you know it can take 15~20mins for all the electrics to switch off?

You should connect your Ammeter in series with the battery then leave it switched off for 20min (to save the battery), then switch it on and take your measurement. And obviously make sure all the doors & the trunk are closed too or your measurement wont be valid. If your pulling fuse from the dash fusebox it would be best to remove & disconnect the driver's door pin switch to ensure the interior light timing circuit isn't being activated.

Did you know that pulling fuses on a modern car can sometimes actually increase the current draw from the battery? It can wake up control units that are connected to the CAN data bus. A better technique is to leave the fuses in place and use your voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across the fuse. The voltage drop across the fuse is proportional to the current flowing through it.
Pretty sure the issue lies with the B+3 fuse. I had the car off for about an hour and a half before I pulled the connection on the negative terminal to test. The amp draw bounces from 1 to 12, staying at no steady amperage anywhere in between for more than 1/8th of a second. All that I can say is pulling the B+3 fuse at night prevents the car from being dead in the morning. I simply plug it back in and I'm on my way. If I leave it in however, the car will be completely drained and nearly unjumpable from a portable jumper. It doesn't happen every time but sometimes I need to actually plug up to a donor to get the thing going.

I have thought about testing the fuse itself but pulling fuses seemed to produce a result so I didn't bother. I know the method that I used was fine simply because the car dies with the fuse in and doesn't when it isn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEEEEEEEEEEE............ You said front end wreck....


Get to where you can use remote on the car

Hit the lock button on remote 2 times consecutive.. should see lights flash,,, BUT,,,,,,, did it chirp / tweet / honk back at you with 2nd push...

Yes, all is well

No......... likely hood switch pad missing from hood if hood replaced.....verify switch in place too

Yes the car beeps and lights flash on pressing the lock button on the keyfob twice. However, the car will not lock without the B+3 Fuse though that is to be expected.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
In looking at diagram SD120-6 I see several things under the autocut device such as the luggage lamp, vanity lamp LH, vanity lamp RH... are these something to worry about in terms of the culprit? I'm not real savvy when it comes to electrical diagrams..
 

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If you are seeing a temporary 12a draw then concentrate on circuits that handle that much. No sense looking at luggage lamps or some other small load.

Don't know what is replaceable in the SJB.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If you are seeing a temporary 12a draw then concentrate on circuits that handle that much. No sense looking at luggage lamps or some other small load.

Don't know what is replaceable in the SJB.
Well that's kind of the mystery since the amperage is bouncing from 1amp to 12amp. It seems completely random.
 

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You can eliminate any circuits with less than a 12a fuse.

I'm thinking your SJB needs replaced or one of the modules on it if they can be repaired individually..

The Hyundai GDS can watch the modules and see what is active.
 

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I had the car off for about an hour and a half before I pulled the connection on the negative terminal to test.
What I said earlier about pulling fuse applies to disconnecting the battery too. As I said, you want to disconnect the battery and insert the meter then wait 20mins for the electrics to switch off again before taking a measurement.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What I said earlier about pulling fuse applies to disconnecting the battery too. As I said, you want to disconnect the battery and insert the meter then wait 20mins for the electrics to switch off again before taking a measurement.
I'll try to give this a shot this weekend to help me narrow down past the B+3 fuse. I already know for sure it is the B+3 fuse though, but maybe this will help to identify the deeper issue. Hopefully we don't receive 10+ inches of snow like I've been hearing.
 
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