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Discussion Starter #1
This thread is intended to document various ways to manage the ISG (Idle Stop/Go) feature (also known as Auto Stop). Please refrain from posting whether or not you like or dislike this feature, there are plenty of other threads to discuss whether this is a good feature or not. This thread will focus on the options available to
those who do not like the feature, as well as documented ways to bypass, default it off or otherwise manage this feature to the user’s liking on the 4th generation
Santa Fe. There are several options available to manage the ISG function. The various options are listed below so each individual can utilize the method they prefer, using the method which works best for their unique situation.

As with any modification, the USER is responsible for any modification on their vehicle. Before making any modification, the user should understand the modification and its potential impacts to the vehicle, warranty, etc. The information posted here does not provide any implied or expressed warranty. Use the following information at your own risk.

Here are the known options to help a user manage the Auto Stop feature in the 4th generation Santa Fe:

1. Press the ISG button after startup to disable the ISG function as desired. This is using the vehicle’s designed ISG function. The default position at every startup is ON (enabled). The user must press the ISG button after each startup in order to turn ISG OFF (disable).
-- Cost: Free
-- Pros:
----- Default option included in the vehicle to disable ISG as provided from the manufacturer
-- Cons:
----- At vehicle start up, the ISG function is defaulted to ON.
----- The user must press the ISG button in order to change the ISG function to OFF after every vehicle startup

2. Wedge a toothpick or part of a credit card (or similar) object into the side of the ISG switch to keep it held in the down position.
-- Cost: Free
-- Pros:
----- Simple
----- Inexpensive
-- Cons:
----- Can slip out and release button
----- ISG button was not designed to permanently be pressed
----- Toothpick or credit card can be seen in some instances
-- For details on this option, see 2 Posts from jimbo1mcm in this thread: https://www.hyundai-forums.com/2019-hyundai-santa-fe-forum-tm/651675-how-defeat-instant-stop-go.html

3. Utilize the known ISG engagement criteria. There are many criteria which must be met before the ISG will engage. By understanding and using one of the known ISG criteria a user can prevent the ISG from engaging. Criteria such as but not limited to: light brake pedal pressure, using the defroster, disabling the battery monitoring system at the battery, etc. are some of the techniques which can be used to keep the ISG from engaging while stopped. Probably the most common criterion is light brake pedal pressure as a certain brake pedal pressure is required before ISG will engage. There are several threads which describe the vehicle criteria which must be met before ISG will activate (when in the ON position). The challenge of using one of these methods is that the user may not have the ability to see whether or not the criterion is being met. Therefore, the user must do their best to “guess” whether or not a criterion has been met or not. This obviously gets better with time and practice. For instance, one such technique is to keep the brake pedal vacuum pressure under the required level but the user does not know the brake pedal vacuum pressure - there is no easy way to see or view real time brake pressure levels. These techniques may take some practice and trial/error in order to master using this technique.
-- Cost: Free
-- Pros:
----- Inexpensive
-- Cons:
----- User cannot ensure ISG will not engage for example if too much brake pressure is used, etc.
----- Open to operator error or forgetfulness
-- For reference, a separate post in this thread will have details of the criterion I’ve been able to document.

4. Shark Racing ISG/Auto Hold Memory module (sharkracing.com). This is a device designed for many Hyundai vehicles with the ISG and Auto Hold features. The user can wire in only the ISG control, only the Auto Hold control, or both features. Shark Racing is a company in South Korea, and appears to have a long history with Hyundai aftermarket devices and accessories.
-- Cost: $67.00 https://sharkracing.com/isg-and-auto-hold-memory-module-various-applications/
-- Pros:
----- Remembers last ISG state upon restart of vehicle
----- Also includes an Auto Hold memory module, which remembers the last position of the Auto Hold button upon restart of vehicle
----- ISG and Auto Hold can be turned ON/OFF as desired (switch on the module)
----- Works on many Hyundai models with ISG and/or Auto Hold
-- Cons:
----- Must be wired into existing vehicle wiring (Shark Racing instructions require tapping into exising wire harness. There is an option to build a plug n play wire
harness in subsequent post in this same thread)
----- Must order from South Korea and takes a couple of weeks to arrive
-- NOTE: Shark Racing also produces a memory module for the heated/cooled seats and heated steering wheel. Also $67.00 https://sharkracing.com/heated-and-cooled-seats-memory-module-various-applications/

5. PAC TR-7/Relay/resistor. This solution is a custom build solution which simulates the user pressing the ISG button 5 seconds after the vehicle is started. This
action essentially defaults the ISG to OFF just after every startup, yet leaves the original ISG function untouched. The ISG button can be pressed again to activate the ISG function if desired.
-- Cost: Under $30.00
-- Pros:
----- Inexpensive
----- ISG function can still be turned ON/OFF as desired using the original ISG button
----- Leaves ISG function in tact as designed from the factory, simulates pressing ISG button on every vehicle startup
-- Cons:
----- Only for the do it yourselfer. Must purchase parts and install (see instructions below) Must be wired into existing vehicle wiring (or build a custom a plug and play wire harness)
-- NOTE: Highly recommend a solid state relay or a relay with a resistor or diode to eliminate inductance

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There may be other documented methods available to help a user manage the ISG function. However, these are the methods I’m aware of. I’ll post details of the following topics in subsequent posts under this thread:
-- Details on the TR-7/relay/resistor solution
-- Build a custom, plug n play wire harness for the TR-7/relay/resistor or Shark Racing device
-- Shark Racing module optional installation on Console harness instead of Main Floor harness
-- System criteria for ISG engagement
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Details regarding the PAC TR-7/relay/resistor solution.
The ISG function defaults to ON (enabled) upon each vehicle startup. Pressing the ISG button after vehicle startup will change the state to OFF (disabled). The purpose of the TR-7/Relay/Resistor solution is to automate (simulate) the press of the ISG button five seconds after the vehicle is started. When the user presses the ISG button, it momentarily touches 2 wires together (via a 200 ohm resistor) which toggles the ISG on/off. The TR-7, a relay and a resistor can be used to perform a one-time, automated "press" of the ISG button.

The TR-7 device has several built-in features, the one of interest for this purpose is the Door Lock feature (feature #9). This feature will momentarily energize a relay (via a 200 ohm resistor) five seconds after the vehicle is started. This in essence simulates a user pressing the ISG button and will change the ISG to the OFF state five seconds after startup. These components can be wired into the wire harness in the console, near the ISG switch. This solution leaves the ISG OEM capability available and untouched – and the ISG can easily be re-enabled by a subsequent press of the ISG button. Subsequent presses of the ISG button will toggle the ISG from OFF to On (or vise versa). This does NOT remove, defeat, alter or eliminate the ISG function, it merely simulates a user press of the ISG button just after the vehicle is started – making it appear as if the default state is OFF (instead of on). This can be accomplished for under $30 if one taps into the existing wire harness. Only 3 wires need to be tapped in order to install this solution.

The TR-7/relay/resistor basic install information will be in this post, but there are some installation options which will be posted in a subsequent post within this thread. One install option is to build a custom, plug n
play short wire harness so tapping into or splicing OEM wiring is not necessary.

As with any modification, the USER is responsible for any modification on their vehicle. Before making any modification, the user should understand the modification and its potential impacts to the vehicle, warranty, etc. The information posted here does not provide any implied or expressed warranty. Use the following information at your own risk.

It is worth noting that I installed this solution in my 2019 Santa Fe Ultimate 2.4 AWD. I purchased a factory manual which is specific to my VIN (so the information was specific to the Ultimate 2.4 trim). I’ll post a couple of different wiring diagrams for reference. Different Trim levels have different console switches and will not have as many options or wires as the Ultimate trim level. However, I did talk with one Hyundai dealer technician who indicated the same wire harness connectors and pin layout is used on all trim levels - however the lower trim levels will not have as many wires in the connector. This means, the information for the Ultimate should work for other trim levels. As I understand the trim levels, all have ISG so this information should apply to all trim levels. I cannot prove this yet as I don’t have access to every trim level, nor do I have a Repair Manual specific to each trim level. If you are in doubt that your trim level uses the same wires/pins, this is how one can test/confirm the wires/pins necessary for this solution. These measurements are taken at the ISG (console) switch and/or the wire harness on the backside of the console top. Reference attached photos for pin layout.

Pin 1 wire color = White with Black Stripe (note, there is more than 1 wire in this harness which is this color)
Pin 6 wire color = Grey with Black Stripe
Pin 13 wire color = Black (no stripe)
Pin 23 wire color = White with Black Stripe (note, there is more than 1 wire in this harness which is this color)

To confirm pins/wires for the ISG function:
-- Remove the console top to expose the wire harness and back side of the console switch.
-- Backprobe pin 1 at the ISG switch (use a paperclip – make sure this does not touch a ground). This pin should have 12V when the vehicle is started and running.
-- With the vehicle off, measure the resistance in the ISG switch across pins 6 (ISG control) and 13 (ground) while the ISG button is pressed (hold it pressed down). It should have 200 ohms when the button is pressed. The ohm meter should read infinite ohms when the ISG button is released.
-- With the vehicle off, backprobe pin 13 (use a paperclip). Use an ohm meter to test for continuity to ground (touch one probe to a ground screw down inside the console cavity, and one probe to pin 13). Should be about 3 ohms or minimal resistance (near zero).

If also wanting to confirm the Auto Hold wires/pins:
-- Remove the console top to expose the wire harness and back side of the console switch.
-- Backprobe pin 1 at the ISG switch (use a paperclip – make sure this does not touch a ground). This pin should have 12V when the vehicle is started and running.
-- With the vehicle off, measure the resistance in the ISG switch across pins 23 (Auto Hold control) and pin 1 (12V) while the Auto Hold button is pressed. Should have 200 ohms when the button is pressed. The ohm meter should read infinite ohms when the Auto Hold button is released.
-- With the vehicle off, backprobe pin 13 (use a paperclip). Use an ohm meter to test for continuity to ground (touch one probe to a ground screw down inside the console
cavity, and one probe to pin 13). Should be about 3 ohms or minimal resistance (near zero).

Parts List for TR-7/relay/resistor solution:
-- 1 each PAC Audio TR-7 Approx Cost: $10-$15
----- I purchased on eBay (search for PAC TR-7)
-- 1 each 200 Ohm resistor (I used a 200 ohm, 2W, 1% tolerance) Approx Cost: $2.68 for 5 pieces
----- I purchased 5 on eBay from StarryStep (seller) with description: 2W 2 Watt 1% Tolerance Metal Film Resistor 5 Pieces You pick value. Select 200 Ohm resistors.
-- 1 each Relay Approx Cost: $10.00
----- I used a relay with a diode to eliminate inductance (I recommend a relay with a diode or resistor which eliminates inductance – note many auto relays you purchase at auto parts stores do not have this protection in the relay). I purchased item 73986 from DelCity.com. Pin 85 is negative (be sure to connect pin 85 to negative and pin 86 to positive).
-- 5 each ¼” covered female blade connectors
----- Can purchase from local automotive store or find on eBay, Amazon
-- Butt connectors
----- Can purchase from local automotive store or find on eBay, Amazon
-- Heat Shrink
----- Can purchase from local automotive store or find on eBay, Amazon
-- 22awg or 24awg wire (3-4 feet is adequate)
----- Can purchase from local automotive store or find on eBay, Amazon
-- Your choice of wire taps (solder, posi-taps, peel insulation back, etc.)

NOTE: There is an option to create/build a small plug and play wire harness so there is no tapping into existing vehicle wire harness. This will be covered in another post.

To install the components, it is easiest to remove the console top so one can access the short wire harness along the backside of the console top. The console top is held in by 10 push connectors. In order to get the console top removed, the shift lever must also be removed. I found it easiest to detach the console top, then reach up under the console top to gently release the shift boot from the console top. After that the shift knob can be removed. It takes considerable effort to remove the console knob off the shift lever, and is much easier to manage if the shift boot is unhooked from the console top. I also put the vehicle in Neutral so I was pulling upwards instead of towards the dash (when the shift lever is in Park). It is a good idea to block the wheels of the vehicle since you will be removing the Electric Park Brake switch (it is part of the console switch which will be unplugged from the vehicle). There is plenty of room in the console to easily place the TR-7, relay and resistor.
I’ll include several pictures which should help explain or give the user additional insight.

Before installing the TR-7 device, it MUST be programed for Feature #9 (door lock feature), option 1 (door lock only). This is a one-time setup.

Prepare to program the TR-7 for Feature #9. This takes less than 5 minutes to complete. I find it is easiest to open the hood, and have another person help hold wires on
the battery posts as follows:
1. Red wire connects to 12V positive
2. Black wire to Negative (ground)
3. Brown wire will be manually be touched to Negative in order to accomplish programming (a single ‘Pulse’ is a touch of the wire to ground for a moment, then remove the
wire from the ground)
4. The Red LED light within the PAC TR-7 will illuminate according to programming (Pulse) actions

Programming for Feature 9
1. Connect the black wire to ground
2. Slide the switch to the on position and apply 12 volts to the TR-7 RED wire
3. In the instructions, when asked to ‘Pulse’ the trigger wire, this will indicate to temporarily ground the BROWN wire to chassis ground and then ungrounding it.
Each time you do this, the LED indicator will turn on and off.
4. ‘Pulse’ the trigger wire (brown wire) 9 (nine)times. Wait 3 seconds, and the LED will ?ash 9 (nine) times to indicate you are programming Feature #9.
This will save Feature 9 into memory (door lock function)
5. Within 3 seconds of the last LED flash, “Pulse” the trigger wire (brown wire) one more time to indicate only the door lock (no door unlock function is needed).
6. After 3 seconds, the LED will ?ash one time indicating option 1 (only door lock) was selected.
7. The LED will then ?ash rapidly for 3 seconds, indicating that programming is ?nished. Slide the switch to the OFF position. If you make a mistake during programming,
you will need to start over from step 1.
8. Programming is complete, the TR-7 can now be wired into the vehicle and used to default ISG to off after startup.

Steps to install the TR-7/relay/resistor:
1. Program TR-7 for Feature 9 (see above)
2. Use plastic interior trim tools (or tape on the end of a screwdriver to avoid marks) to detach (lift) the top of the console
3. Remove the shift knob. This pulls off (up). It is tight, and it takes considerable force to pull the knob off
4. Disconnect the in-line wire connection (34 pin white connector) near the shift lever so the top of the console can be removed from the vehicle.
5. Place the console top upside down on a towel or soft surface so you can access the wire harness on the bottom side of the console top cover. Notice there is plenty of room within the console to house the TR-7, relay and resistor.
6. Wire the TR-7, the relay and the resistor as shown, and attach to the wiring harness as specified using the wiring connectors of your choice (can solder wires, use posi-taps or whatever connector you feel comfortable with).
7. Replace the Console top in the vehicle, re-attach the 34 pin connector, tuck the TR-7, relay and resistor into the console. If desired, you can now start the vehicle and confirm things are wired correctly. Five seconds after the vehicle starts, you should hear a soft click of the relay, and the ISG light in the console switch will
illuminate. At this point, the ISG is now OFF. If the light does not illuminate (or you don’t hear a faint click of the relay, the wiring should be checked).
8. Press the Console top back into place and ensure all 10 pins are pressed in
9. Slide the shift knob back onto the shift lever and ensure it locks in (spring loaded pins within the knob latch in the notches in the lever)
10. Forget about pressing the ISG button every time you start the vehicle and enjoy driving.

Wiring Diagram for the TR-7, Relay and Resistor. Only 3 wires in the console wire harness need to be tapped (only 2 if you run the ground wire to a ground in the console cavity).
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Wire Connections:
ISG Relay Connections:
-- Pin 85: White wire from PAC TR-7
-- Pin 86: 12V Switched, which is pin 1 in the ISG switch wire harness
-- Pin 87a: unused, just slide a ¼” covered female blade connector over this pin
-- Pin 87: Negative (ground), which is pin 13 in the ISG switch wire harness
-- Pin 30: 200 Ohm resistor. (the other side of the resistor is connected to the ISC activation, pin 6 in the ISG switch wire harness)
PAC TR-7 Connections:
-- Black wire: Negative (ground)
-- White wire: pin 85 on relay
-- Red wire: 12V switched
-- Green wire: 12V switched
-- Blue wire: not used
-- Brown wire: not used (only used to program the TR-7 to use feature 9, not used in final setup)
-- Orange wire: not used
ISG Switch wire colors:
-- Pin 1 (12V switched): White with Black stripe
-- Pin 6 (ISG Control): Grey with Black stripe
-- Pin 13 (ground/negative): Black
-- Pin 23 (Auto Hold): White with Black stripe
Use the following diagram to know which pin number is on the switch (male side) or the wire harness which plugs into the switch (female side) or reference attached photos.
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Console Top being removed.jpg



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3875 ISG Switch Diagram.jpg

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Console Back with markup small.jpg

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Console Space Small.jpg


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Latch tabs for shift boot small.jpg

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Shift Knob latch pins small.jpg

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Shift Lever notch markup small.jpg
 

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There are several options available when installing the Shark Racing ISG module or the TR-7/relay/resistor solution. These are optional installation methods, enhancements or adjustments which can be made when installing the TR-7/relay/resistor or the Shark Racing ISG memory module.

Option 1: Optionally, if your trim has Auto Hold, the same TR-7 can be used to activate a 2nd relay which would turn the Auto Hold ON after the vehicle is started. A second relay and a 2nd resistor would be needed for this feature. See the wiring diagram below. Again, subsequent presses of the Auto Hold button will toggle Auto Hold on/off. This leaves the Auto Hold function fully enabled, this solution simply simulates pressing the Auto Hold button 5 seconds after the vehicle is started.

Option 1a: install a toggle or push button switch under the dash to be able to turn off/on the relay without having to take the console apart again. A switch as drawn up below, would allow the user to turn off/on the Auto Hold activation at startup, while the ISG function always deactivated after startup. Of course, one could put in a
toggle or push button switch for both the ISG and Auto Hold and be able to disable the relay any time one took the vehicle in for service (if anyone is concerned that the service department will notice or care). The switch(es) could be routed up under the dash out of sight so they are accessible but not easily visible.

Option 1a is included in the diagram below and the switch is marked as optional.
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Option 2: Create a custom plug and play wire harness for Shark Racing ISG module or the TR-7/relay/resistor solution. If one purchases the correct wire connectors and pins, a custom harness can be built so that either the TR-7/relay/resistor solution, or the Shark Racing ISG solution can be installed without tapping into existing wiring. With this option, a short custom made wire harness is made which is used for wiring in the TR-7/relay/resistor or Shark Racing ISG solution. The new custom harness is inserted between the existing console top harness and the back of the console ISG switch (a 24 pin connector). This requires the user to build the custom wire harness.

I sourced my wire connectors from different vendors only because I could not find one vendor who would sell both the male and female connector in a quantity of 1 or 2 (some require 1000 connectors as a minimum purchase). Purchase the connector and the associated pins as listed below (or find your own source using the part numbers below). Since the TE crimper tool for these pins is over $1000, I did not crimp the wires. Instead, I very carefully soldered the wire to the pin, using a minimal amount of solder and then inserted the pin into the connector housing. This is a bit tedious but was worth it to me so that I did not have to cut OEM wiring or harnesses.

The connector is a 24 pin connector, with 18 pins populated in the connector (for the Ultimate trim, other trims may use less wires/pins). 14 of the 18 pins are a straight passthru (from a male to a female connector), and the other 4 wires need a straight thru with about a 6" pigtail (for connecting the Shark Racing module or the
TR-7/relay/resistor) off that straight thru wire. I stripped a short piece of insulation back and soldered a short pig tail, then heat shrink the solder connection on the 4 wires as indicated: Pins 1, 6, 13 and 23 require a pigtail for attaching either the TR-7/relay/resistor or Shark Racing ISG solution. Pins 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21 and 24 are all passthru. Pins 2, 9, 11, 14, 20 and 22 are unused and are not needed (for Ultimate trim, other trim levels may have additional unused wires/pins). I recommend 22awg or 24awg wire. Length of wire between connectors is about 8" (so need a male and a female pin on each wire) When I built my original
test harness I made it much longer so I could test things while standing outside the vehicle. The entire custom harness should be less than 12” long so it will easily fit into the console cavity.

NOTE: A pigtail on Pin 23 is needed only for the Auto Hold solution. If you are only installing the R-7/relay/resistor for the ISG, then Pin 23 can also be a straight passthru.

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This diagram is for TR-7/relay/resistor solution using a custom wire harness so no OEM wires must be tapped, cut or otherwise altered. This creates a plug and play solution. Be sure to include a resistor in the solution.


Custom Harness connector pins and connector housing (male and female)
Console Switch Connectors are 24 Pin TE Connectors which are from te.com. I found it best to purchase individual housing connectors and pins from 2 vendors so I could purchase small quantities as needed.
-- Female Console Switch connectors:
----- Connector: 1376103-1 uses pin 1376109-1 (need 1 connector and at least 18 pins, I recommend purchasing some spare pins)
---- I ordered mine from Allied Electronics (https://www.alliedelec.com)
-- Male Console Switch Connector:
----- Connector: 1717112-1 uses pin: 1674311-1 (need 1 connector and at least 18 pins, I recommend purchasing some spare pins)
----- I ordered mine from Online Components (https://www.onlinecomponents.com/)

TE.COM sells wire crimpers for attaching the wire to the pin (before sliding the pin into the connector). However, the crimpers are over $1000 to purchase so I soldered the wires to the pins. This is probably the most challenging part of the custom wire harness as one must use a very small amount of solder, and manually crimp the wires tight enough to still be able to get the pin into the molded male/female connector.

Option 3: Install the Shark Racing module on the Console Top harness instead of the main floor harness. The Shark Racing instructions provide information to tap into the main floor harness. This harness is quite involved (over $1200 to purchase from dealer), and if one needed to replace it there would be significant work to do so.
This option allows the user to install the Shark Racing Module into a much smaller wire harness – the small harness within the Console. Use the following table to install the solution appropriate wire in the console top wire harness (closer to the actual ISG switch). The smaller console wire harness could easily be replaced (if ever wanted or needed) for about $100. This optional method is as simple as removing the console top (already documented). Since both the main floor harness and the console harness can be seen with the console top removed, one can trace the wires from the main harness to the console harness. Or reference the chart below for the wire/pin number and wire colors in the console harness. Attach the Shark Racing ISG modules as follows if attaching to the wire harness on the console top:

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Option 3a: Wire the Shark Racing ISG module into a custom harness (described above in Option 2).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Using ISG system criteria to prevent ISG engagement.
There are many criteria which must be met in order for the ISG function to engage. It is possible to prevent all criteria from being met which in turn prevents the ISG engagement when stopped. This information came from page 5-46 in my User Manual, or from page 1353 in my Factory Repair manual. It may or may not be 100% inclusive of all criteria necessary for the ISG to activate, but it will give a general sense of what is required. Not meeting one criterion will prevent the ISG from engaging (stopping the engine). Also note, that while unlatching the seat belt may keep the ISG from engaging, it is not recommended to use such methods which may be unsafe. I do NOT recommend leaving the seat belt unlatched to prevent the ISG from engaging. Also, in some cases, the documented criteria may be slightly different depending on the source of the information. Use this information at your own risk as usage of some methods may be unsafe and are NOT recommended.

If one of the following is NOT met, ISG will not engage:
1. ISG switch is off (illuminated)
2. Engine Coolant Temperature is greater 30°C (86°F)
3. Brake Vacuum less than -35 kPa
4. Driver Door closed
5. Driver Seat Belt latched
6. Hood closed
7. EMS state (TPS/CKP/CMP/WTS/Vehicle speed signal) satisfied (DPF Regeneration prohibited) Not sure what all this means but it is a requirement…..
8. A/C system satisfied = A/C switch ON, FATC over 6, MTC over 3 (The fan speed of the automatic climate control system is set above the 6th position, with the air condition ON)
9. Battery State of Charge greater than 68%
10. Battery temperature in this range: 2 - 55°C (35.6 - 131°F)
11. No ISG related part errors
12. Vehicle speed has reached greater than 8 MPH prior to vehicle speed reduced to 0 MPH
13. Accelerator pedal not pressed (resting position)
14. Gear state in R, N, D, 1 or 2
15. Brake Switch activated (can be released if Auto Hold is active)
16. Vehicle is NOT in diagnostic mode
17. The outside temperature is between 14 °F and 95 °F (-10 °C and 35 °C)
18. Battery Sensor deactivated (such as disconnected from negative pole for maintenance)
19. Defrost switch ON
20. On a downhill or steep uphill (I have not found the necessary angle documented)
21. Steering Wheel angle (I have not found the necessary angle documented)

Note 1: When Auto Hold is activated, if you release the brake pedal, the engine will be in the auto stop state. However, if you depress the accelerator pedal, the engine will start again.

Note 2: In congested areas, if the driver wishes to stop the vehicle and change lever from D?N, the ignition will turn OFF. If the shift lever is shifted from N (Neutral) to R (Reverse), D (Drive) or Manual shift mode without the brake pedal depressed. A message "Press brake pedal for Auto Start" will appear on the LCD display. To activate auto start, depress the brake pedal.

Conditions for a FORCED restart:
1. Brake Pressure Over -35 kpa
2. Low battery voltage
3. Maintain excessive electrical load for 3 minutes (I cannot find a documented definition of excessive load)
4. Activate defroster
5. The door is opened or seat belt is unfastened when the brake pedal is depressed or Auto Hold is activated
6. Inertial speed over 1.5 km/h (on downhill)
7. Ignition switched ON with hood open
8. Engine stopped longer than 300 seconds (5 minutes)
9. Vehicle parked on a steep slope (I cannot find a documented slope angle)
10. ISG Off button pressed
11. A/C ON, FATC over 6, MTC over 3 or HVAC performance dissatisfied (The fan speed of the automatic climate control system is set above the 6th position, with the air condition ON)
12. A certain period of time has elapsed with the air condition ON. (I could not find a documented duration)
13. The vehicle is shifted to P (Park) or R (Reverse) when the brake pedal is depressed or the Auto Hold is activated.
14. The EPB is pressed when the Auto Hold is activated. (if equipped with EPB (Electronic Parking Brake))

NOTE: Notice: In case of error during idle stop, the engine can only be started by using the key.


The ISG system is deactivated by fault for the following reasons:
1. Fault in communication line (LIN/CAN)
2. Fault Electric oil pump
3. Fault ESP System
4. Fault Limp home mode
5. Fault brake booster vacuum pressure sensor
6. Fault Brake master cylinder pressure sensor
7. Fault Brake pedal switch
8. Fault Battery sensor

NOTE: When the ISG related sensors or system error occurs, the ISG OFF switch lights up. Especially when the battery sensor is replaced or reinstalled, the vehicle must be placed in the ignition switch OFF for about 4 hours for recalibration. The ISG function should operate properly in approximately 4 hours. However, for the first 25 times, the ISG function will operate regardless of recalibration.
 

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Bump the gear shift selector over to manual mode before coming to a stop, ISG will not engage
😄 ....or......just as easy learn how to use your right foot to control the pressure on the brake pedal - the car stops before the switch gets tripped.

(or maybe it's me w/ several years experience with stop/start vehicles 😂)
 

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Hi all,

I've ordered and installed the ISG module from Shark Racing for my 2019 Santa Fe Ultimate. Thank you Breakers28 for all the great info. The hardest part of the install was pulling the center console. I was going to create a custom harness, but instead decided to give it a go with crimp-on T splice connectors.


These are the connectors I purchased from amazon:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
rjs11, glad you were able to find the right solution for your needs! Enjoy driving without having to deal with the Auto Start/Stop.
 

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It’s such a chore to push the console button to disable the ISG. It’s almost as difficult as turning on Auto Hold, the parking brake, or the radio. Woe is me.
 

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I still wonder why it’s so hard to press the button to turn it off. After all you press a button to start the car. You press a button to turn on the infotainment. You press a button to turn on the climate controls. Just press the ISG off button.
 

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I don't have problem with ISG. I just want to provide a simpler alternative for those who want an "auto" fix. Having said that, it does irritate me when it shuts off and I needed to go almost simultaneously lol.
 

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I still wonder why it’s so hard to press the button to turn it off. After all you press a button to start the car. You press a button to turn on the infotainment. You press a button to turn on the climate controls. Just press the ISG off button.
No need to wonder. It simply annoys some of us that we have to turn off a feature we don't like. Is it difficult to turn it off, obviously no. That's not the point. Each of us has our likes and dislikes about our rides. For me, it's a dislike. Not earth shattering, just annoying.
 

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I still wonder why it’s so hard to press the button to turn it off. After all you press a button to start the car. You press a button to turn on the infotainment. You press a button to turn on the climate controls. Just press the ISG off button.
I think it is more for consistency, and memory. Those other functions you mentioned are done with purpose: I have to start vehicle, I press the start button. I don't like this song, I change the station. I am cold, I raise temperature of climate control. But ISG and auto-hold buttons need to be pressed in anticipation of something happening ahead of time. Easy to forget and then, surprise, you lose a quarter of a second when you need it to cross traffic. You'll never forget to press the button to start the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looking at 3875 ISG Switch Diagram.jpg in the first post. Just wire a time delay relay across the switch. Much less work and don't need electronics skill which op seems to have. Here is one (cheap too) but there are many or rig one up ….
rambokid, I agree there are many other potential devices to accomplish the ISG default to OFF. What is missing in the 3875 ISG Switch Diagram.jpg (from the factory manual - the manual is missing this information) is the 200 ohm resistor in the switch. Measure the resistance through that switch (or take it apart and you'll see it) and one will find 200 ohms of resistance. Pin 6 (the ISG control) is connected to the PCM (Powertrain Control Module, or the computer that manages the engine and controls the engine itself). I don't know what will happen if you simply short across pin 6 (ISG Control) and pin 13 (Ground). The device you mention along with a 200 ohm resistor would work, but I don't know what will happen without the resistor.
 

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I think it is more for consistency, and memory. Those other functions you mentioned are done with purpose: I have to start vehicle, I press the start button. I don't like this song, I change the station. I am cold, I raise temperature of climate control. But ISG and auto-hold buttons need to be pressed in anticipation of something happening ahead of time. Easy to forget and then, surprise, you lose a quarter of a second when you need it to cross traffic. You'll never forget to press the button to start the engine.
It’s funny how some folks here worry so much about losing “a quarter of a second” in acceleration. I never worried that my 280Z took 7 + seconds to get to 60 mph, nor do I fret when my Santa Fe 2.0 T does it in roughly the same time.
 

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.....It’s funny how some folks here worry so much about losing “a quarter of a second” in acceleration......
Well if someone wants to disable it I say go for it - but I really can't fathom the thought that you can beat the ISG from brake to gas. Been driving stop/start for several years & I've never been able to beat it to the punch......human reaction time is 1/4 second = light green -> lift off the brake -> gas.....not once have I been able to beat the computer. Reminds me of those who are certain they can shift faster than a DSG 😂

As I said, if you hate & can disable it go for it, I'll stick to the brake pedal method I've learned over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Can we keep this thread free from everyone's opinion? As stated in the first post, there are a lot of opinions (and we all have one). This thread should be specific to ways, means, etc. of managing the ISG (or auto stop/start) feature for those who do not care for it. Thanks😎
 
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