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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after waiting a week to "move in" to my Sonata because of a lack of radio (nothing against the factory radio in the base model.. I just listen to all of my music via streaming services on my phone), I've finally got all the parts;

A Kenwood BT555U, the metra harness for 2003+ Fords, and the Metra dash kit.

I did some reading on here (hyundai-forums.com/181-nf-2006-2010-sonata/132282-got-stereo-way-2.html) and have a few things to figure out in regards to spending tomorrow in some lovely weather (can't use my garage :( ) installing my radio (and hopefully my amp+subs, though that may wait).

In any case, I had some questions that I didn't see the clearest of answers to in other threads on the topic..

1. The mute wire; The BT555U harness has a "Mute Control Wire".

The metra harness has.. 4 brown wires labeled as mute; should I just wire these 4 "mute" wires in the metra harness to the one mute wire coming off the head unit's harness?


Also, I'm unsure what I'm going to do about the AM radio issue; I ordered my harness online and had I known the issue before hand, I'd have ordered two since I'd rather cannibalize a second metra connection instead of the factory harness, but I haven't decided what to do yet.

The deck has a blue Antenna Control wire; has anyone ever found a suitable pin from Radio Shack to fit the Metra harness?

Also, what have you guys done in regards to wiring microphones in the Sonata? I saw some in the stereo thread, but I'm just looking to place it in the easiest place to install and want to remove as few panels as I need to install something like that.
 

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If there's 4 brown wires, I guarantee they're not all mute wires. Chances are they're just placeholders for other pinouts. (canbus wires, or vss, who knows) If it doesn't say in the metra manual what one wire to use, don't hook up mute. (or look up the exact pinouts online) Simple as that. Also, you need to make sure the mute wire is the right polarity. (hook up a negative mute wire when a deck is watching for a positive signal and you're gunna have a bad time.)

As for the mic, they work best mounted up top near the rear view mirror. Run the wires along the A pillar then through the headliner
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If there's 4 brown wires, I guarantee they're not all mute wires. Chances are they're just placeholders for other pinouts. (canbus wires, or vss, who knows) If it doesn't say in the metra manual what one wire to use, don't hook up mute. (or look up the exact pinouts online) Simple as that. Also, you need to make sure the mute wire is the right polarity. (hook up a negative mute wire when a deck is watching for a positive signal and you're gunna have a bad time.)

As for the mic, they work best mounted up top near the rear view mirror. Run the wires along the A pillar then through the headliner
Thanks for responding man! The amazon vendor I bought the metra harness from sent just the harness. I'm assuming it's metra, it didn't actually come in the typical metra packaging. Or any packaging for that matter..

After a closer look at the guide posted on here (hyundai-forums.com/attachments/nf-2006-2010-sonata/47636-got-stereo-way-screenshot-hyundai-service-website-chromium.png <- sorry that's not clickable, forum rules prevent me from posting links for a week, even if they're links to this forum lol) and the metra harness, the 4 brown mutes are as follows:

15: Nothing
6: Nothing
7: MUTE (no polarity mentioned)
18: Stereo Remote Ground

The radio's manual has a huge "IF NO CONNECTION IS MADE, DO NOT LET THE WIRE COME OUT FROM THE TAB" warning which makes me think they're a positive and not a ground since having a + not connected to anything could short if exposed and it touched any chassis metal behind the deck.

So now that I think I've got the mute figured out, I'm curious about the stereo remove ground; I don't have a corresponding wire on the radio's harness . What should I do with that wire? Leave it alone or ground it along with the chassis ground?
 

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You tell whether you have a negative or positive trigger by using a DVM: positive triggers show +12 volts and negative triggers show -12 volts. AFAIK, Hyundais use negative triggers. I would NOT use that wiring adapter; buy a Metra. No instructions? How do you know which wire goes to what pin? You don't unless you have a schematic of a Sonata and test each and every wire. I've installed many a radio and I've never known Metra to give me a bum steer. I'd trust that harness as far as I could throw it. That's the bad news.

The good news is you'll almost certainly need to alter a Metra adapter to get your steering wheel remote to work. You can take your schlock adapter apart for pins. Be careful - they're not all the same size. Radio Shack doesn't sell the pins you need.

You'll also need a steering wheel remote adapter. I like this one from Crutchfield Axxess ASWC-1 Steering wheel control interface — connects your car's steering wheel audio controls to an aftermarket stereo at Crutchfield.com

It's easy to install and program and works with almost any combination of radio and vehicle.

Just as a point of information: the Mute wire is used by a phone interface; it mutes your radio when you receive a call. I don't know whether your Kenwood needs an interface to connect to your phone. Unless you know it does, cap off (DO NOT GROUND) the Mute wire from your radio and do the same for any Mute wire on your Metra adapter.

What AM issue are you referring to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You tell whether you have a negative or positive trigger by using a DVM: positive triggers show +12 volts and negative triggers show -12 volts. AFAIK, Hyundais use negative triggers. I would NOT use that wiring adapter; buy a Metra. No instructions? How do you know which wire goes to what pin? You don't unless you have a schematic of a Sonata and test each and every wire. I've installed many a radio and I've never known Metra to give me a bum steer. I'd trust that harness as far as I could throw it. That's the bad news.

The good news is you'll almost certainly need to alter a Metra adapter to get your steering wheel remote to work. You can take your schlock adapter apart for pins. Be careful - they're not all the same size. Radio Shack doesn't sell the pins you need.

You'll also need a steering wheel remote adapter. I like this one from Crutchfield

It's easy to install and program and works with almost any combination of radio and vehicle.

Just as a point of information: the Mute wire is used by a phone interface; it mutes your radio when you receive a call. I don't know whether your Kenwood needs an interface to connect to your phone. Unless you know it does, cap off (DO NOT GROUND) the Mute wire from your radio and do the same for any Mute wire on your Metra adapter.

What AM issue are you referring to?
You win! It wasn't a Metra because when I returned the wrong metra (1996-2006 Hyundai) connection for the right one, it was pretty obvious before I even opened the packaging it wasn't Metra. They're even like 4 shades of grey different, a pin in the wrong spot, and I've already broken the non-metra for the pin (I've made it a striped + spotted yellow cable with a sharpie to avoid any confusion.


As for the manual's diagram, it lists the following three wires as "If no connections are made, do not let the wire come out from the tab."

1. Steering remote control wire (Light Blue/Yellow): To the steering wheel remote control adapter.
---- I'm not worried about this wire because I don't have a kit to incorporate the steering wheel's radio controls---

2. Power Control Wire (Blue/White) - To the power control terminal when using the optional power amplifier, or to the antenna control terminal in the vehicle.
-----This is the remote that I will wire separately from the harness to the amp I will be installing----

3. Mute Control Wire (Brown) - To the terminal that is grounded when either the telephone rings or during conversation.
---- This is for using the deck's Bluetooth and phone pairing capabilities to answer phone calls ----

I guess I erroneously (and it makes sense now that I was wrong) thought the car's wiring harness had a mute since there were 4 in the "schlock" adapter. Where should I run this brown wire? To chassis? Spliced into the Radio's ground wire?
 

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If you mean the brown wire from your Kenwood, download the owner's manual PDF from Crutchfield and see what it says. AFAIK, the Mute wire receives voltage from another device when your smartphone receives a call and the radio is supposed to mute your tunes/talk radio. I don't think you need it; are you going to use your smartphone to stream Pandora? If your smartphone rings, does it automatically mute your Kenwood?

Whatever you do, DO NOT GROUND the brown wire. Aftermarket radios come with several extra wires so they can be used in many applications. Not all wires have to connect to something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Understood. I'll leave the mute from the deck alone.

I have the manual with the radio (bought it brand new last week from Best Buy) opened right next to me, which is where I'm getting the info on the wires listed. It's pretty straightforward, though some of these descriptions are nearly .

So the pin I added, listed as Anntenna B+, what should I wire that to? The ACC connection? My manual lists a "ANT CONT", but that it's "Not Used", so I don't want to try to wire the two together.
 

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Our Sonatas have an on-glass antenna; it doesn't produce enough signal to get good AM reception so it has an antenna amp that lives under the C-pillar cover on the passenger side. Hyundai sometimes uses, ah, creative notations for things. What everyone else calls the dome light they call the room light; maybe it's a Korean thing. :grin: The antenna B+ is Hyundaispeak for the antenna amplifier; wire it to your Kenwood's Amp Remote along with that wire you're laying for your future amp in the trunk. BTW, if you're planning on adding an amp later on, lay the RCA cables back to the trunk now so you don't have to remove the radio later on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wired it to the ACC wire and the radio reception was fine! I was able to finish installing the amp and subs before the sleet really started coming down. Definitely froze my ass off though for 5 hours though lol. I'll probably want to do a better job of running the 12v+ to the amp, but I have a pretty tried and true method which is both ghetto, but works great lol. I didn't break too much, and only lost the majority of the white clips and one of the bolts to hold in the radio (which I'm still puzzled how I managed that since I placed every screw in the cup holder).

Thanks for the advice man. I'll probably spend today pulling my optima red top and trying to make that work in the Sonata. While it has a newish dealer battery, it's old enough to have some corrosion going on, and I just feel that the red top would be better overall (it's roughly a year old, and my amp is only a 400w amp that's from 2002 lol.. if it ain't broke.. why replace it?).

I'll take pics of the radio install too, my mic location is pretty clever, albeit tacky. I figure I'll use the Bluetooth feature sparingly so mic location wasn't too important. And again, it was **** cold for south Louisiana yesterday so I was doing my fair share of rushing to finish things :D
 

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Glad you're mostly done. Those white clips are proper li'l slingshots, aren't they? I managed to find (I think) all the little buggers when I disassembled the interior so I could have the pea-soup green LEDs changed to blue. Some of them went into places you'd never get to unless you take the interior apart. Great design. :grin:

The screws that hold the radio in are 5mm (yes, five mm.) I bought replacements at Auto Zone; they sell them as Ford license plate screws. They're in a revolving rack along with various small parts.
 

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I just got my harness adapter from eBay, and the connector is not fully populated.

In particular, it has NO lead for the following:

5) External Amp
24) Antenna B+

And it DOES have some leads where Hyundai seems not to need any!

Contact 6, for instance.



My thought is that if there is some way to pull contact 6 and place it in contact 5, the External Amp control would then feed the antenna. I have no contacts that will fit in position 24.

Or have I simply gotten the wrong connector? Shape and size, it IS the Hyundai connector....
 

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Yes, you can transfer a pin from one of the wires you don't need to one you do need. It should be obvious how you take the adapter apart. IIRC, I had enough "extra" pins on mine (Metra) that I was able to move the wires I didn't need to the wires I needed.

IIRC, the pins are of several different sizes; pin 1 is MUCH bigger than pin 2, IIRC. You can't mix pin sizes.

Be sure to carefully label each wire you move. I don't like a dimmed dashboard at night so I think I moved pin 3 and 4 to different locations. But this means the color coding is now WRONG for any pins you move. Label the wires one-at-a-time to avoid confusion. Scotch tape and a Magic Marker work wonders.
 

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So if I move Pin 6 to location 5, then I can access the EXT AMP line.

I would bet money that EXT AMP is not carrying the POWER to an external amp, it's just giving the external amp a signal that it should turn itself on, running off a separate power line.

The question would be: does the SIGNAL that goes on Pin 5 carry sufficient current to run the antenna amplifier in the C Pillar?

I have this feeling that I may have to tie into the Sonata's harness directly.


NB: I had cut out the female connector from a FORD (since the connector is the same for many years). It ALSO has no "ANTENNA B+" contact in it!
 

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Sorry; I answered too quickly. I need to know if your factory radio is 1-disk or 6-disk; it makes a BIG difference.
 

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OK; I assumed correctly.

So if I move Pin 6 to location 5, then I can access the EXT AMP line.
You don't need to access this pin; since you have a 1-disk factory radio I doubt if it goes anywhere.

I would bet money that EXT AMP is not carrying the POWER to an external amp, it's just giving the external amp a signal that it should turn itself on, running off a separate power line.
See previous answer.

The question would be: does the SIGNAL that goes on Pin 5 carry sufficient current to run the antenna amplifier in the C Pillar?
See previous answer.

Pin 24 carries 12 volts TO the antenna amp; connect this wire to your radio's Antenna Remote, if you have one. If not, connect it to your radio's Amp Remote wire. This means you may have 2 different wires connecting to your radio's Amp Remote wire.

If you're wiring for an amp in the trunk, and I STRONGLY recommend you do, see the next paragraph. It's a lot of work but it's well worth doing no matter what kind of music you like. If not, just join the speaker wires from your adapter to your aftermarket radio's plug and tape 'em up.

If you're wiring for an amp in the trunk, you need a separate BF red wire, BF black wire, small amp remote wire (usually blue) and fuse. They sell amplifier wiring kits for this purpose. Connect one of the fuse wires to the (+) battery terminal and the other to the BF red wire. Pass the BF red wire thru the same grommet in the firewall that the hood opening cable goes thru. Be careful you don't nick the insulation. It's a little fussy shoving the BF red wire thru the grommet but you've gotta protect the BF red wire. I ran the separate small amp remote wire from my aftermarket radio along with the BF red wire. Guide the two wires back on the driver's side to the trunk. You'll have to remove some interior trim pieces to do this. Finally, connect the BF red wire and the amp remote wire to your amp in the trunk. Connect the BF black wire for your amp's ground wire terminal and connect the other end to any metal place in the trunk where there's a screw.

So much for wiring power and remote to your amp. You also have to run 8 wires from your amp in the trunk's speaker output terminals to underneath the dash. Run these wires on the passenger side. Connect these to the Front Right (+) and (-), Front Left (+) and (-), Rear Right (+) and (-) and Rear Left (+) and (-) wires at the adaptor. Cap off the corresponding speaker wires to your aftermarket radio.

If a 54 year-old guy with bad knees can do it, so can you.
 

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True--there's no need for me to send a signal back along Pin 5 (since it probably doesn't go anywhere--it might not even exist on the vehicle-side connector).

Since I need to tie to Pin 24 on the Vehicle-side connector, yet do NOT have a pin (blade) that size to swap from some other, unused location on my connector, I think that I will have to tie to the vehicle-side line with a "tap."

I'm still waiting to hear back from the guy I bought the harness from on e-Bay, to see if he has another version available WITH pin 24 populated.

As I implied previously, perhaps the one I got is more Ford in nature than it is Sonata....

(PS--I'm a 53 year old guy with a bad back, so we're even!)
 

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I bought two adapters; one sits in the Sonata, still doing its thing after all these years. The other was the donor; it did a face plant into the wastebasket years ago. If you wind up tapping into pin 24, be sure and make a good connection. I've never used taps; I don't trust 'em. Some here have had success with 'em, though. I'm a solder-n-tape guy.
 

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Maybe I can get a spare connector....great idea.

Tape? Really? How gauche. I tried my hand at crimping...not a fan. Solder and heat shrink tubing! Now THAT'S the way to make a joint!
 

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So many folks are scared of soldering; it's great to meet a fellow solder-n-heat shrink guy. :grin:
 
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