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Hello folks, I have a 2013 Tucson GLS 2.4L AWD Engine G4KECU891338 Automatic Transmission. I've been having a low pressure oil warning light issue. I've noticed the light first came on when on a road trip and stopped to get some gas. After filling up and starting the car I noticed the light came on. Right on the spot I checked the oil level and it was right on half. Not to mess around I decided to drive a block down the street and get me some more oil to top it off. On the way there the light went off. I still got the oil and got it to full. Turned the car on and the light was back, steped on it a little and the light was gone. Decided to drive and the light stayed off the whole time I was driving, no knocking noises or any performance issues while driving. The light kept coming back on every time i turned the car on and goes way once I start driving. Per some suggestions and some research I started with the basics. First I did and Oil Change and changed the Oil Filter. I got the same results light came on the would go away. My next step was to switch out the oil pressure switch aka oil sending unit. However I've looked for the darn thing and I'm starting to think I got the wrong part or I just haven't found it. So can someone tell me if I got the right part from Autozone and the location of the oil sending unit? I was also going to do a oil pressure test with a pressure gauge but need the operating pressure specs from cold to hot and what I should be getting in case it turns out I have a bad oil pump or maybe bad cam. Thanks for your help. I'll post some pictures of what I got.
 

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Here is a picture of my engine. It only has 52k miles on it.

2.4L Theta

Mr Wong is only showing connector locataion,, and the location is engine harness to pigtail that carry on to the actual pressure switch..

The switch is hiding under intake manifold, screwed into side of block

This was first pic I located,, switch to right of dipstick tube --> Disregard fact that this pic is a THEAT II GDI pic,, block is same for for parts locations

 

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Here is a picture of my engine. It only has 52k miles on it.

2.4L Theta

Mr Wong is only showing connector locataion,, and the location is engine harness to pigtail that carry on to the actual pressure switch..

The switch is hiding under intake manifold, screwed into side of block

This was first pic I located,, switch to right of dipstick tube --> Disregard fact that this pic is a THEAT II GDI pic,, block is same for for parts locations


Thank you for this info. I really didn't think about taking off the intake manifold, it kind of sucks that I have to do so. I really do hope it's there. Even with the picture you posted I could not spot it, but it just has to be there. I'll let you guys know and post more pictures once I find it and the outcome of the issue.
 

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I see it now �� it's to the right of the oil dipstick tube. Hopefully the work wouldn't be to hard. Thanks again
 

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I see it now �� it's to the right of the oil dipstick tube. Hopefully the work wouldn't be to hard. Thanks again

I should know where it is, I play with these things 5 day a week,, and 1 Saturday every other month
 

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Thanks, I trust you ��. Any tips on how to remove the manifold. Hopefully with keeping mostly everything in tact as much as possible?
 

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Update! I attempted to remove the manifold to no success. I didn't realize that there was a bracket under the manifold. Spoke to a buddy to help with the manifold removal but told me to hold off and try to swap out the filter with a Genuine Hyundai Filter, so I got the filter changed it out and it did not fix the issue. I still get the oil pressure light to come on and then it goes off after I start driving. The next thing before I take it to the dealer and they can tell me it needs a new oil pump or I have some issue with my cams is switching that sensor. Going to order me some manifold gaskets and replace them too at the same time, any other recommendations please let me know. Thanks
 

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Thanks, I trust you ��. Any tips on how to remove the manifold. Hopefully with keeping mostly everything in tact as much as possible?
I think you can get it from underneath. Raise it and support with jack stands. Remove the splash shield(s) to get access.
 

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First, this is my take on this and not responsible for anything you do this on your own risk.

I got this done a few weeks ago and here is the scoop on what happened. It was not the oil filter, it was not the oil, it was not the oil pump, it was the oil sending unit as I had suspected. The sensor I got from AutoZone was correct, next time I would get the parts from Hyundai since they are so cheap and while you are at it get the intake manifold gaskets too. The gaskets for some reason are special order not even Hyundai keep them in stock (Hyundai dealer said they are reusable, me personally it's too hard of a job to not replace them when you are that deep in the car). The work is a bit involved and I would not recommend it to anybody who doesn't already know a little bit about cars or who don't feel comfortable taking things apart. My local Hyundai quoted me about $300 bucks to get this sensor replaced and I can see why. @sbr711 is correct the sensor is right behind the intake manifold and there is no other way to get to it other than taking the whole thing out. I will attach some pictures and circle what I thought are the most crucial things to disconnect and remove. I apologize if I am missing some pictures but hopefully it gets you there. You will leak radiator fluid so be ready to have a container to catch any fluid that might leak when removing the hoses. Take lots of pictures or video to help you remember where things go.

Before you get started you will disconnect your fuel injector line so decompress or remove gas pressure from your engine first. I forgot to do this and had gas gushing out when I disconnected the fuel line. Next start by removing the air intake housing filter which is easy; The part attached to the air intake housing is also attached to the intake manifold so make sure to separate that too and then remove that which should leave you staring right into the intake manifold opening. At this point I would not disconnect any hoses just yet, go around the engine and start to disconnect all the different plugs and connections that you see attached to the main wiring harness going above your engine and behind the engine, hopefully, my pictures will help you to see how much I removed. Once you can't remove any more electrical connections, get under the car and find the bracket that is attached to the intake manifold I only removed the bolts that attached directly to the manifold, here you can also see a couple connections that is best to disconnect and detach them from the manifold. Some of these connections are attached to zipties that are attached to the frame or the manifold itself and the suck taking them off. I cut some of them off but be careful not to cut the wiring. Once you have your main wiring harness loose and is all disconnected most of it should be able to be pushed forward towards the front of the car. Then start to undo all the bolts attaching the manifold to the block I think three on top and three or two on the bottom. If possible at this point you need to remove the block pick up hook/loop and right next to that is a sensor remove that. From here I started to remove the fuel line (have a rag or something handy to collect fuel just in case you get a little leak it should stop) right behind and below that there should be some tubing and a sensor start to disconnect all of that as long as you don't disconnect the radiator fluid hoses that are going into the intake manifold. Once that is done then get a container and start to disconnect all the hoses that you see attached to the intake manifold two of these lines are the in and out radiator fluid hoses so they will leak radiator fluid. I don't know how to get around that. I did not disconnect the main upper radiator hose but the main radiator hose bracket needs to be disconnected it will get in the way. Once all of this is out of the way it takes some force to remove the intake from the block since it's a bit stuck at least mine was. From here is just a matter of finding the right angle to remove the darn thing, not going to lie this was sucky for me and it took some work around. The main upper radiator hose was probably the worst thing to work around so much so that I almost removed it but didn't want to deal with all that. So that is basically it the whole thing came out and I saw that stupid sensor, it was leaking oil from the inside of the sensor, I removed it and put in the new one, I got some pictures of that too. Put everything back on, oh it sucks putting the intake manifold back on too. Don't forget to connect the top right side sensor before you connect the fuel line or you will have to work around that. Don't forget your new intake gaskets, don't forget to bleed the air out of your cooling system, don't forget to double check all the connections. This is my experience and again I hope it will help you some as I found no info on this when I looked around. You are doing this at your own risk and I am not responsible for anything that may go wrong.
 

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