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2.2 L 2006 (newer shape) Santa Fe with 130k on the clock. Recently serviced.

Noticed the oil pressure light flickering on. I added some oil thinking it was perhaps low and the car seemed to be fine for 70 miles. The light started to come back on and then solid and a clacking noise started coming from the engine.

I check the oil level and it appears to be fine. When I tried to drive it some more, the engine sounded like there was some metallic scraping and some not so great / strange friction noises so I stopped and had the car towed home (where it is right now). Going to take it to the garage tomorrow but would appreciate any ideas as I don't trust them to figure it. Is it something they should have picked up at the recent service?

Thanks in advance
 

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I added some oil thinking it was perhaps low and the car seemed to be fine for 70 miles.

as I don't trust them to figure it.
You added oil without first checking the level.......
And you don't trust the shop to do the right thing....????

What is wrong with this picture ??:(

The symptoms sound like a major lubrication failure and your engine might need MAJOR WORK.
 

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Petrolheads (applies to dieselheads as well) often joke that the oil pressure warning light fitted to cars is really a "your engine has just gone BANG" light - it's set at such low pressure that it's no warning at all, just a sign that failure has already happened.

It'll need a major investigation and only then can you assess whether it should have been predicted during service.
 

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You could check the serpentine belt for tension.
To my knowledge the oil pump isd hooked up at the alternator.
Is the battery voltage normal at running engine (14.x volts) ?
Maybe the oil pump is not pumping right so you may have enough oil but it isn't pumped around enough.
Was the engine temperature going up when it happened?

Paul
 

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Your problem is even more serious than what you think. I had the same problem happened twice to me.

If you live in a country whre your diesel sulphur content is 500 ppm or more get ready. Such fuel reduces your oil changes considerably since the CJ-4 API standard states that for vehicles with after combustion treatment systems like EGR, regeneration etc require oil changes more frequently. I live in Panama and our diesel has 500ppm sulphur content. One day when coming from a trip to the beach, the engine oil light started to flicker. I did the same and checked oil level. It was OK. a few miles more and the light became constant and the engine loss power immediately. Had to tow it with a truck but I knew something was wrong with the oil. That light not only warns you about low oil but also about low oil pressure. The mechanic removed the crankcase and found out the problem was sludge. The oil return tube screen had been blocked by thick sludge and there was no lubrication to the upper part of the engine, hence that loud clacking noise from the valve rockers. New oil had no more than 2000 kms when this happened. Manufacturer recommended 5000km oil change interval. Had to do a full engine cleanup and flush. LUckily I stopped the engine before a serious damage was done. However, the piston rings did suffer some and there was some serious work to do thereafter. This is were your problems come since, if you did wore out some of your piston rings, you will no longer have the power you had before, like in my case. I also smoked some because of the worn piston rings although there was no oil burning. Possibly the compression rings wore out.

Your engine goes into limp home mode if your oil pressure goes low so thats why you loose power. Chances are you will need to replace your oil pump, like I did, do the complete engine flush, not once but thrice. It was done twice and about a month later, the same problem. Still, some pieces of sludge were slowly coming loose with the previous flush and oil change. So you need to be careful after this flush.

Because of such poor quality diesel here in Panama, I had to sell the 2.2 CRDi Santa Fe. Our diesel was, literally, killing the engine. Injectors were wearing out too quickly since these Bosch Injectors for the D4EB engine are Euro 4, and shall work with diesel sulphur content of 50 ppm or less, not the 500 ppm we have here. Also, had to remove the EGR valve since it was having sludge formations because of the oil/fuel mixture coming from the unburned exhaust. In the end, it just all went from bad to worse :( Loved the Santa Fe but Hyundai shall be aware of the specifications of the vehicles they are selling in every country.
 

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API CJ-4 is specified for sulphur content UP TO 500 ppm http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/motor_oil_guide_2010_120210.pdf Using CJ-4 at suphur levels above 15 ppm may affect exhaust aftertreatment durability and/or drain interval.

Hyundai are generally aware of local fuel and oil quality which is why the 2010-on R-series 2.2 diesel is specified for 20,000 miles / 30,000 km OCI in Europe
Well that might be the case for Europe, Pacific and USA, but I don't think thats the case for smaller underdeveloped countries in Africa or Latin America. I have also seen same issues with Toyota Hilux and Fortuner after 50k km. They start smoking because the sulphur damages de Common Rail systems, especially the injectors since sulphur wears out the injector needles not the nozzles. I had sludge build up after 3000km using that CJ-4 oil from Castrol, so either the oil was bad or there is more sulphur in the fuel than labelled. Just my opinion, anyways, any problem involving lubrication is a sign of expensive repairs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone. Garage has indicated a build up of sludge causing blockages and low oil pressure , lack of circulation to top of engine and turbo. Needs a serious clean out and we will see. I think I'm going to px this car as its been so unreliable. Shame as I liked the spec, format and ride.
 

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Diesel mixing with Engine Oil

I own a 2006 CRDI Santa Fe ran 250,000kms. The exact same thing happened to me. The oil dip stick went above the high level because the diesel mixed with the engine oil. Due to the loss of viscosity the engine power went. Luckily I stopped the engine in time before causing serious damage.

Need to replace fuel injectors, turbo, oil change, and oil filter change. It could have been worse as I could have cooked the engine if I ran it any longer.

Symptoms were, unusually dark smoke at high revs (even only 5000kms past oil change) & some loss of power (I'd say about 5-10%). All this was happening 4- weeks prior to incident. Then just a day before the engine oil light flickers, sometimes on for longer periods of time.


Francis
 

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Interesting to see this thread following my experience from six months ago with my Santa Fe 2.2crdi 2007 with 360,000km. I too had an oil pressure warning light when starting the car. It was worst on cold start, and went from going out immediately to staying on for approx two seconds though never on while driving and no unusual noises. This all started to happen following a warm start on a steep upward incline when the low level red light appeared and I duly topped up/ Oil top-ups were never required between oil changes until then.

The engine is now running very well following a sump off and sludge cleaning of the oil pick up strainer at my local independent garage.
Oil services were always carried out on time from new with this motor, almost always by myself so my worry was how I could have had a sludge problem. I have been driving diesels for well over twenty five years without such a problem until this year(1.25 million Km).

Anyway it seems that the finger of blame pointed at me. I had always used a high quality aftermarket oil filter and the recommended 5W30 oil and enthusiastically bought one of those oil change vacuum/suction tube units just like many mechanic and quick oil change companies use. It was so quick, and extremely clean and convenient for me. Seems though this was likely the cause of my sludge problem as I was not sucking ALL of the dirty oil with my "sucker" kit, and the sludge kept building up over about 25000 Km until my red light experience.

I count myself as very lucky to have survived the dreaded sludge without major expense, and wonder how many engines are being slowly choked as a direct result of continuous use of these dubious devices. Sludge in a regularly serviced modern engine using recommended lubricants should not be a problem. No doubt someone is going to disagree, but I'm glad to post if my experience might be of help to someone.
 

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Sounds to me like worn rod bearings. I assume the oil was hot when the light started flickering? A thicker oil may help or a high mileage oil. If it's sludged up then Auto-RX will clean that out as you drive.
 
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