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2001' Accent gs 1.6 5spd

My oil pan rusted out and is sweating oil. I also have a frozen flex to cat pipe directly under the oil pan. Do I have the clearance to remove the oil pan without splitting the exhaust pipe?

Appreciate the reply,

Jim
 

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Thanks Carl for the advice, it would be the solution but my new weld-on SS flex that I will try to save the pipe by cutting off the bolts and drilling the cat, this I dread having to do, upside down and on the ground. This Friday night I will attempt the maneuver, will let all know then.

Jim
 

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Well here is the answer to my problem of having a bleeding oil pan.
Released all (18) screws from pan and pried off pan to find that the exhaust is in the way.
After using a saw-all, air cutter on the exhaust flange and found not to work but my trusty Dewalt grinder remove exhaust stud and nut in no time flat.
I then had to grind flat the studs to the surface of the flange then proceeded to drill through the center of the stud with a 3/32" bit and increased bit size till I achieved a 3/8" hole to satisfy a 3/8" bolt to nut clamping.
The pan was bought at Advance Auto Parts for 63 dollars and 12 dollars for pan gasket, also get exhaust gasket for $4.50 use high temp silicone to seal both sides of pan gasket. The original pan to block had "NO gasket", this may of increased oil temp a bit so I think by using the gasket is the better...
Good luck,
Jim
 

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awesome post and pics, my oil pan is in similar condition. i wonder if there is any product to protect your new oil pan something like high heat rock guard coating.
 

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Good job

When I had to replace my flex connector I orderd the whole front pipe the used a oxy-acetylene torch to heat the nuts red then put a impact wrench on it. Then worked like two of the rubber hangers loose in the back so it could slide off the studs.
 

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QUOTE (ormo @ Aug 9 2011, 06:50 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=487956
awesome post and pics, my oil pan is in similar condition. i wonder if there is any product to protect your new oil pan something like high heat rock guard coating.
The oil pan isn't really that hot & if you catch it before it starts to leak through the rust holes, you can use POR-15. This will pacify the rust and seal the whole thing to keep any further rust away - the trick with this product is to follow directions that come with the paint & essentially they are to clean the surface well and apply 2 coats of POR. It dries really hard, even stones shouldn't have an effect on it. The drawbacks to this product is that it's not cheap and once opened, doesn't last, it'll set up in the can, so you get only what you need. A really small tin will be enough for something like the pan.
 

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Hello. My 2005 Accent has a busted flex pipe (flexible section has cracks) and the oil pan is leaking oil! Bought a new oil pan at Canadian Tire; about $22. cheaper than the local Hyundai dealer, but, still too expensive. Had to cut out the bolts holding the flex pipe and will have to drill new holes into the flange to insert the new bolts. Bad design. Removed all the pan bolts. I'm having a very difficult time trying to remove the old pan. The original sealer just doesn't let go! I'm trying to pry off the old pan with a chisel but there is very little space to use a hammer on the chisel! Any ideas? Thanks.
 

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Hello. My 2005 Accent has a busted flex pipe (flexible section has cracks) and the oil pan is leaking oil! Bought a new oil pan at Canadian Tire; about $22. cheaper than the local Hyundai dealer, but, still too expensive. Had to cut out the bolts holding the flex pipe and will have to drill new holes into the flange to insert the new bolts. Bad design. Removed all the pan bolts. I'm having a very difficult time trying to remove the old pan. The original sealer just doesn't let go! I'm trying to pry off the old pan with a chisel but there is very little space to use a hammer on the chisel! Any ideas? Thanks.
Use something like a box cutter to cut the sealant - RTV sticks really well to clean surfaces. Cut where you can and then pull the pan down & cut some more, if you pry and chisel, you might damage the surface on the block. Make sure that you scrape all the sealant off and degrease the surfaces before applying new sealant.
 

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Well here is the answer to my problem of having a bleeding oil pan.
Released all (18) screws from pan and pried off pan to find that the exhaust is in the way.
After using a saw-all, air cutter on the exhaust flange and found not to work but my trusty Dewalt grinder remove exhaust stud and nut in no time flat.
I then had to grind flat the studs to the surface of the flange then proceeded to drill through the center of the stud with a 3/32" bit and increased bit size till I achieved a 3/8" hole to satisfy a 3/8" bolt to nut clamping.
The pan was bought at Advance Auto Parts for 63 dollars and 12 dollars for pan gasket, also get exhaust gasket for $4.50 use high temp silicone to seal both sides of pan gasket. The original pan to block had "NO gasket", this may of increased oil temp a bit so I think by using the gasket is the better...
Good luck,
Jim
  • Hey Jim if you're out there I was wondering how much of the exhaust did you have to remove? I'm seeing I will have same issue replacing oil pan. Thank you
 
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