Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I do my own oil changes, on my back, in the driveway. I've gotten extremely efficient at it over the years. Total turn around time 7.30 minutes (my record)

But Hyundai decided to put the drain plug pointed to the FRONT so you have to let the jack down to get all the **** oil out. Convenient for Techs with a rack but NOT for guys like me.

I guess this is just a rant, lol

I will drill and tap a new drain plug once the warranty has expired.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,177 Posts
I do like how it is on both my Hyundais, rear drivers side. As both are in the same location and drain better when jacked up than level. Though I do usually let it down to almost level when draining.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,437 Posts
I do like how it is on both my Hyundais, rear drivers side. As both are in the same location and drain better when jacked up than level. Though I do usually let it down to almost level when draining.
Wouldn't leaving it up be better for draining...since it's at the back? :confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,177 Posts
Wouldn't leaving it up be better for draining...since it's at the back? :confused:
The plug is on the side at the back so if it's up too high the oil will pool against he back of the pan. I get at least another 20 ml of oil out this way......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,437 Posts
The plug is on the side at the back so if it's up too high the oil will pool against he back of the pan. I get at least another 20 ml of oil out this way......
Do you (as I do) fill your oil filter before installing? Just saying...becuz you sound very fussy about your cars! :nerd:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,177 Posts
Do you (as I do) fill your oil filter before installing? Just saying...becuz you sound very fussy about your cars! :nerd:
Yes, but I use them for two oil changes, Fram Ultras. :) I do loosen them so any oil above the filter comes out and also relubes the gasket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
I put the Accent up on stands in the front. Then position my trolley jack under the center of the rear "axle" with a piece of 2x4 about 2 feet long to spread out the weight. The front was lifted one side at a time, but the back goes up in one go. Positioning the 2x4 and jack is a pain. two stands then go under the rear axle at the suspension points. The rear can be lifted level and rested on the stands or jacked even higher than level to aid in draining oil out of galleries since the engine is canted backwards quite steeply. If I'm going to be under the car the rear is resting on those stands at the back corners.



It's not efficient, but it's better than lifting the car up in front, then lowering it down to drain out level, then lifting it back up again to put the drain plug and new filter in, then dropping it again to start filling it. That's what I used to do to deal with the drain plug being on the back of the pan.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,437 Posts
Yes, but I use them for two oil changes, Fram Ultras. :) I do loosen them so any oil above the filter comes out and also relubes the gasket.
Okay, let me get this straight...you lower the car for 20 ml but leave dirty oil in the filter on your 2nd change? :shades: Some kids? :grin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Genius would be a self centering piece of 2x4. The Accent's rear twist beam axle is barely wider than 4 in. Any degree of side to side rotation of the wooden 2x4 as it sits on the trolley jack's lifting pad and the rear axle won't sit on it square and secure. Since the circular lifting pad on my jack is designed to rotate freely it takes some lining up and peering in from the wheels to get things making contact right. As the hydraulic arm raises up, it swings in an arc. The position of the lift pad and 2x4 changes with respect to front2back axis, which can often require small adjustments to the trolley, pushing it in further or pulling it back before secure contact is made with the axle and jacking can proceed. I should probably knock together some wooden scrap pieces to make this positioning quicker and easier.



I raise the back up from the center like this and lower it onto a second pair of stands. The stands go at the extreme ends of the axle, just about right under the shocks:
(photo credit forum member az2008.) The stands go where he's pointing. he posted <a href="http://www.hyundai-forums.com/rb-2012-2017-accent/133108-floor-jack-lift-point.html"> great stuff on this subject some years back</a>

Once the car is lowered on the stands it's more or less self leveling with the front as long as the rear stands are set close to the height setting of the front stands. That's my position for draining out level - all 4 corners on stands. After the oil drip slows up, lifting the rear axle again so that the rear is now higher than the front will cause the drip to quicken back into a stream again. That's probably due to the backward slant of the engine. I put the rear back down on the stands again before getting back under the car for anything further.


When lifting the rear from the center it's important to finish with the jack handle low to the ground before releasing and lowering away after you're all done. If the handle is upright or close to it, the bumper will drop down on the jack handle when you start lowering. The axle is so far forward under the car that the handle won't clear when the car comes down, unless the handle down low to the ground. You will not feel like a genius if that happens - ask me how I know. Best to end your lifting with the handle low and parallel to the ground. But if you forget to do that you can raise the car up one more pump, stop pumping with the handle low to the ground and then release and lower away.
 

·
Registered
2007 Honda CRV
Joined
·
4,581 Posts
Don't they have those drain plugs that can be opened remotely
So you don't have to get underneath with a wrench?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
you can never drain the old oil out completely but you can get very close. The manual says 3.5 qts is a standard oil change for the gamma engine, but it states clearly that 3.9 is its total capacity.



By raising the rear of the car above the front, after the oil has drained out level and the stream has changed to a slow drip, the engine will be drained to the point where it takes at least 3.7 qts to get back to full.



There is another technique to get the remaining old oil out: start putting new clean oil in from above with the drain plug still removed. Put in at least half a quart. Dirty old oil will start flowing out into the pan. When the draining oil stream begins to look light and clean, stop putting in new oil and wait for the drip to slow to a near stop. Replace the plug. Now fill the engine with the normal amount of oil for a change. All new oil. No old oil. I learned this on the Elantra forums from NicholasD and I can't believe I didn't think of it myself.



Yes it's wasteful of expensive oil and a little nutty, but try it and you will see that a lot of dirty looking oil keeps coming out long after you think it should all have drained out on its own.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top