Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 117 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2012 Sonata 2.4L ... almost 122k miles
Test 1....600 miles 1 qt
Test 2....900 miles 1.5qts
Test 3....600 miles 1 qt
Now Hyundai wants to camera scope the motor. I would think they are looking for metal shavings and scoring on the cylinder wall.

Anyone else have to go this route or farther?

Anyone get a replacement motor with just the completed oil consumption test results?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
I would go as far as possible and hope that you get a new long or short block.

I wonder if Hyundai is simply gathering data on their failed suppliers or engineering.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mainia and 273HYPO

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,772 Posts
I would go as far as possible and hope that you get a new long or short block.

I wonder if Hyundai is simply gathering data on their failed suppliers or engineering.
Ohh....They are gathering data to find blame. Hopefully they are concerned a bit about the customer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ought to be interesting where this goes...
Those who received a free motor please chime in and let me know what hoops you jumped through, if any...thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
907 Posts
Hope it goes somewhere, but some manufacturer's state that a qt. every 600 miles is not a problem.
Maybe they'll do like others have done and extend the engine warranty which amounts to nothing, just that one would have a car that needs oil every 600 miles, but the engine won't destroy itself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
Should only go as far as written values on the worksheet,, and submitting worksheet to the PA people..

Dont recall pulling pan for picture... only on seized or knocking engine for submission for long block replacement

Tell them to quit screwing around and submit the worksheet to PA people,, they know they have issue,, I have done a couple with stoooopid miles on them
 
  • Like
Reactions: Brons2

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
Ought to be interesting where this goes...
Those who received a free motor please chime in and let me know what hoops you jumped through, if any...thanks!

'12 Kia Optima SX with 76K miles (perfect running with all my mods, never used oil). In Dec '18 developed slight "rod knock of death". In less than 10 days, I had a new long-block and they even moved all my modifications over! No muss, no fuss. I now have a lifetime warranty (unlimited miles/unlimited time) for all owners on the engine. Cost to me: $50 (I replaced the original serpentine belt). They also gave me a free rental during the fairly short time they had my car. I did have to do the dealership update that reflashes the ECU for the knock sensor test and as a result had to pay LAP3USA to re-pair my ECU tune to my car ($150). Car runs great, no issues, no oil usage, etc.

I'm a happy camper!


FWIW: I use Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil with the Fram Ultra XG8688 filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
...

FWIW: I use Castrol Edge 0W-40 oil with the Fram Ultra XG8688 filter.
Your dealer is tolerant of mods. Most that I've dealt with were not.

Your typing is bad as mine, but I use the excuse that my 3 reattached fingers don't work too well anymore. That would be XG9688. I also recommend ANY full synthetic filter from any common brands.... Wix, Napa, Purolator, Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Ryco..... Fram synth filter is a great choice as are any synth filter. Napa Platinum is on sale for $5 and is a steal for that price point and worth stocking up a few. Synth media won't biodegrade on the garage shelf.
FRAM ULTRA® Spin-on Oil Filter XG9688 | FRAM
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PFL41334

For turbos, I recommend 5w-40 because it is a grade mentioned in the owners manual. Even though I have faith in ALL the available brands in 0w-40, for some reason, the clueless tech writers left out 0w-40, 0w-30, 10w40, 5w50, 15w50..... which I also wouldn't fear to use.

A 5w40 would usually have a slightly higher HTHS than a 0w40. And, HTHS is the front line protection coming from your oil.

And to annoy the use it forever greenie crowd, I recommend replace the oil/filter at the severe service intervals in your owners manual. All data that I've seen has convinced me that GDI needs it. Nothing has proven otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Should only go as far as written values on the worksheet,, and submitting worksheet to the PA people..

Dont recall pulling pan for picture... only on seized or knocking engine for submission for long block replacement

Tell them to quit screwing around and submit the worksheet to PA people,, they know they have issue,, I have done a couple with stoooopid miles on them

I agree....haven't heard this happening to anyone else hear on the forum.

I was told after test #3 that the paperwork would be submitted but sometimes Hyundai Warranty Dept responds back and wants to look inside the motor. Service manager stated he called them and they want to look inside motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,404 Posts
I agree....haven't heard this happening to anyone else hear on the forum.

I was told after test #3 that the paperwork would be submitted but sometimes Hyundai Warranty Dept responds back and wants to look inside the motor. Service manager stated he called them and they want to look inside motor.
Probably a waste of energy to try and make any sense of why Hyundai does some of the things they do, they have their own regimented process and I wouldn't be at all surprised if every X number of claims requires some sort of additional proof - like a look inside of the engine. I'd think a savvy dealer would keep some pics lying around of both bottom end failures and top end failures - after all they are anything but rare events.

If the bearings don't get you then there's always the rings, but in any event enjoy the new engine , you deserve it !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
Did you ask them what they were looking for?

Tell the service manager to call WarrantyDept and advise them that the inside of the motor looks just like the inside of a motor. :whistling:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
Your dealer is tolerant of mods. Most that I've dealt with were not.

Your typing is bad as mine, but I use the excuse that my 3 reattached fingers don't work too well anymore. That would be XG9688. I also recommend ANY full synthetic filter from any common brands.... Wix, Napa, Purolator, Amsoil, RoyalPurple, Ryco..... Fram synth filter is a great choice as are any synth filter. Napa Platinum is on sale for $5 and is a steal for that price point and worth stocking up a few. Synth media won't biodegrade on the garage shelf.
FRAM ULTRA® Spin-on Oil Filter XG9688 | FRAM
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PFL41334

For turbos, I recommend 5w-40 because it is a grade mentioned in the owners manual. Even though I have faith in ALL the available brands in 0w-40, for some reason, the clueless tech writers left out 0w-40, 0w-30, 10w40, 5w50, 15w50..... which I also wouldn't fear to use.

A 5w40 would usually have a slightly higher HTHS than a 0w40. And, HTHS is the front line protection coming from your oil.

And to annoy the use it forever greenie crowd, I recommend replace the oil/filter at the severe service intervals in your owners manual. All data that I've seen has convinced me that GDI needs it. Nothing has proven otherwise.

Yup, I fat fingered that one! It is XG9688 for the filter. My OCI is 4K based on the severe service description in my owners manual and mainly the UOAs I've done over the years with BlackStone and now Polaris Labs. I use Top Tier 93 octane gas (mostly Costco but also Exxon and Shell). I used to run Mobil 1 0W-40 and switched to Castrol Edge 0W-40 as a result a couple of years back. And yes, I recycle the oil folks. The whole 0W-40 vs. 5W-40 topic seems to be a regular one on BITOG forums. Given my location (East TN, not super cold in Winter) I'd be fine with 5W-40 if I could find it for the same as I pay for 0W-40 Castrol Edge. YMMV.


I also drain about 1-2 oz of "gunk" from my PCV side OCC at every OCI.
This is my daily driver and I put about 40 miles on her daily to/from work, at a mix of highway/city driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,076 Posts
I tend to let price decide on oil grades.... I keep a little collection of various grades that I can use to thicken or thin motor oil. Grabbed some clearance full synthetic 40 and 50 grade motorcycle oils and will blend that in 1-2 quarts at a time with whatever 'common' synth I use. Good way to spike an oil for viscosity. I don't think I've ever paid full price for synth oil... its either on the clearance rack, on sale, or rebated heavily.

That long 20 mile x2 commute daily does much for your engine. I think that many owners are short distance commuters that build up fuel/moisture/crud in their engines and don't change frequently enough. I wish that Costco would open around here.

My filters and oil get recycled. So, if I use a few extra gallons, I don't worry. I doubt that too many dump used oil and filters into the drinking reservoir anymore. Greenies make it seem that oil changes will cause the sun to be extinguished and cause the moon to split. I just don't feel the guilt!
 
  • Like
Reactions: williamhood

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Got my car back this week with the new engine, thanks Hyundai and my local dealer!

2011 Sonata 2.4, 160k miles, I own the car since 110k miles.
OCIs about 3k miles at same dealer.

Oil consumption results:
1. 500miles 2qt
2. 500miles 1.5qt
3. 500miles 2qt
4. 500miles 2qt

Replacement took about 3 weeks, 1st week was a "waiting" for Hyundai's approval. Rental was provided for the whole period.

Before the test, dealer also said they would do a compression test and might inspect the engine with borescope, but eventually this wasn't done, or at least I am not aware of it.

I wanted to replace few more parts along with the engine, like the serpentine belt, but was told that mechanic would let me know if anything needs replacement. Next time I was contacted with "car done, transferred parts were in good shape". Allright :)

I did visual inspection, all looks good, hopefully nothing was screwed up. I plan to keep a closer look on fuel pump and "break in" the engine for about 1k miles.

Replaced parts as per invoice:
21101-2GK50-QQH ENGINE ASSEMBLY-SUB
21111-2GK50-QQH SERVICE KIT
21111-2GK70-QQH SERVICE KIT
25470-2G050-QQH TUBE ASSY-OIL COOLER

I wish good luck to everyone with their oil consumption tests, if you think whether to do it or not, do it! I agree though that 1q per 300miles is somewhat too much.

Will also paste here my experience trying to fight oil consumption, in my case this was just a waste of $$.
I tried Liqui Moly engine flush twice (for 15 min before oil change), Bg109 EPR (for 15 min before oil change), Sea Foam twice (as directed, for 500 miles before oil change), MMO last 3 times (every time for 3k miles). Also piston soaked with Sea Foam twice and with MMO once (every time overnight), NOTHING HELPED. Last 40k miles I had 3k OCIs with full synthetic oil (5W30 high mileage Castrol and then Valvoline) and M1 filters.
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2011-2014-sonata-i45/646107-2012-sonata-using-1-2-3-4-quart-oil-weekly-help-4.html#post5873387
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Got my car back this week with the new engine, thanks Hyundai and my local dealer!

2011 Sonata 2.4, 160k miles, I own the car since 110k miles.
OCIs about 3k miles at same dealer.

Oil consumption results:
1. 500miles 2qt
2. 500miles 1.5qt
3. 500miles 2qt
4. 500miles 2qt

Replacement took about 3 weeks, 1st week was a "waiting" for Hyundai's approval. Rental was provided for the whole period.

Before the test, dealer also said they would do a compression test and might inspect the engine with borescope, but eventually this wasn't done, or at least I am not aware of it.

WOW! Your car was 40K miles past warranty and not the original owner and they honored the warranty. My wife is the original owner, test was started under 120K warranty and also the 3rd new Hyundai she has owned since new and we have to jump thru hoops
I'm getting bad vibes over this....WTF
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,552 Posts
WOW! Your car was 40K miles past warranty and not the original owner and they honored the warranty. My wife is the original owner, test was started under 120K warranty and also the 3rd new Hyundai she has owned since new and we have to jump thru hoops
I'm getting bad vibes over this....WTF


We had one that was a bit short of 200,000 mile for oil consumption,, PA approved it,, customer had a ton of service history with us

They handing out engines like no tomorrow at all kind of mileage that I am seeing at our place
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
2012 Sonata 2.4L ... almost 122k miles
Test 1....600 miles 1 qt
Test 2....900 miles 1.5qts
Test 3....600 miles 1 qt
Now Hyundai wants to camera scope the motor. I would think they are looking for metal shavings and scoring on the cylinder wall.
Is it Hyundai or the dealer who wants to possibly inspect the engine? How did Hyundai know about the results if the test is not complete and the dealer hasn't submitted anything yet? In my case this sounds really similar to "we'll do compression tests after all consumption steps", however nothing was done.

I agree with sbr711, just finish the test and ask them to submit papers to Hyundai, it should turn out positive, your consumption rate is pretty high.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
See below...
I was told after test #3 that the paperwork would be submitted but sometimes Hyundai Warranty Dept responds back and wants to look inside the motor. Service manager stated he called them and they want to look inside motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
343 Posts
2012 Sonata 2.4L ... almost 122k miles
Test 1....600 miles 1 qt
Test 2....900 miles 1.5qts
Test 3....600 miles 1 qt
Now Hyundai wants to camera scope the motor. I would think they are looking for metal shavings and scoring on the cylinder wall.

Anyone else have to go this route or farther?

Anyone get a replacement motor with just the completed oil consumption test results?
Wow, nice that they let you go with such short mileage intervals. My dealership told me I had to go as close to 1K miles as possible. I'm into the third test now, but so far:

Test 1....1040 miles, 2.2 qt
Test 2....1087 miles, 2 qt
Test 3....855 miles (so far) and looking like it will be about the same usage...stay tuned!

In any case, they seem to think it's going to go down the PA route, even wrote as much on the service record after Test 2.
 
1 - 20 of 117 Posts
Top