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My 2018 2.0T Limited: Remove the small belly pan trap door. (Not the whole large belly pan). Drain bolt and filter are accessible.

My 2015 2.0T Sport Limited: Remove the whole large belly pan.
Drain bolt and filter are accessible.

My dealer supplies a "Crush Washer" for the drain bolt when you purchase the stock Sonata Oil Filter.
 

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Gain access to drain plug, remove plug and drain oil

re-install drain plug, change filter

add 4.5+/- qt of oil,, start engine for 15-20 second, shut off.. inspect oil level and add to bring to "F" dot on stick
 

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I'd stick with a name brand 5w20 or 5w30 depending on your climate. FYI Mobil has rebates going right now and on "roll back" prices at Wal Mart for $22.xx before the $12 Mobile rebate. So in the end you're paying $10 for oil + cost of filter (I use Hyundai filters).
 

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I stick with the recommended QS 5W20. The book states that or 5W30 can be used. As for the brand other than QS, the choice is yours but a lot of people use Mobil 1, or some other oils that are more expensive that I can not recall the names of.

One of the first things I do with all my vehicles is replace the drain plug with a fumoto valve. Once I remove the drain plug and replace it with the valve I never have to mess/unscrew it from the oil pan again. No worries of replacing the crush washer for each oil change. When its time to change the oil, I remove the small engine shield under the car (I have a 2018 Sonata Limited), hook a plastic tube to the valve nipple, flip the switch and let the oil drain from the engine/oil pan into my oil catch container. Once done, I flip the switch closed, remove the plastic tube, wipe off the valve end, and replace the small engine cover that I removed (of course I change the filter as well before replacing the engine shield). No unscrewing the drain plug each and every time. Just the flip of a lever, out with the old oil.

I've had 2 x 2011 and a 2013. Now I have 2 x 2015s and a 2018; I have replaced all the drain plugs with the fumoto valve. The valve runs about $30 but well worth it in my opinion.
 

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I would never even consider a 5w20 with Hyundai's GDI engine family 1.6T/2.0/2.4/2.0T history, and I wouldn't consider the extended 7500 mile interval either.

5w30 for the 2.4GDI severe service or <5k intervals
5w40 for the 2.0T/1.6T severe or <5k

On a new engine, its smart to change the oil/filter out earlier the 1st time.

Any name brand or store brand full synthetic is good enough for top-offs. Any name brand oil filter, with a silicone anti-drain-back-valve, is probably better than the OE filter. I haven't seen any that weren't better than the OE filter.

Remove drain plug, remove filter... wait a few minutes for all oil to drain out of both areas. Helps if you're on HarborFreight or RhinoRamps. Then fill new filter with oil, reinstall it, torque it, and reinstall & torque drain plug with new crush washer. Add remainder of 5 quarts of oil and top off as needed after running engine.

Hyundai Sonata: Engine Oil. Repair procedures - Revised - Lubrication System - Engine Mechanical System - Hyundai Sonata YF 2011-2018 Service Manual

If you can't figure out an oil/filter change by yourself, then have someone show you. There is much lacking in DIY instructions and youtube videos that can cause a clueless 1st timer DIY'er to ruin their engines. Just asking and starting this thread makes one worry about your capability. Most indie shops will let you watch, even from a distance, and explain how they do an oil/filter change. I'd start with that $60 lesson, or find a competent diy'er neighbor to help you.
 

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Gain access to drain plug, remove plug and drain oil

re-install drain plug, change filter

add 4.5+/- qt of oil,, start engine for 15-20 second, shut off.. inspect oil level and add to bring to "F" dot on stick
when i do oil change, after i drain the oil, i just add the entire 5qt mobile one synthetic. is that wrong, should i not have done that?
 

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If I recall, LF Sonata hold rough 5 1/2 to the "F" dot on dipstick (2.0 & 2.4),, the 1.6T holds less...

I just like to get nominal oil in them, start to fill, then sneak up on the full mark, and ship it
 

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Quick question Sir. I haven't done much research, but if i recall well, at the dealer, they told me that the new 2018 Sonatas (specifically my 2.0T) use regular oil (not synthetic). In your opinion and experience, do you think that is accurate?
 

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Quick question Sir. I haven't done much research, but if i recall well, at the dealer, they told me that the new 2018 Sonatas (specifically my 2.0T) use regular oil (not synthetic). In your opinion and experience, do you think that is accurate?
You can use any oil that meets their specs - dino (regular) or semi synthetic or full synthetics. A full synthetic has the highest levels of protection and will produce less carbon or sludge buildup in most cases.

Some dealers wmay tell you dino (regular oil ) is ok and they use it because they are either doing free oil changes or have "specials" and that cuts the overhead and increases profits.

Ive been using synthetic Mobil 1 or Red Line in all of my cars and motorcycles for the past 15 yr as have many others.

They (dealer) and the Service manual will tell you that you can also run regular 87 octane fuel and you can and that 2.0T will rune but it will run a lot better and get better milage running premium 91+ octane
 

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sbr711 said:
add 4.5+/- qt of oil,, start engine for 15-20 second, shut off.. inspect oil level and add to bring to "F" dot on stick
when i do oil change, after i drain the oil, i just add the entire 5qt mobile one synthetic. is that wrong, should i not have done that?
You don't just add a quantity of oil and hope for the best, you need to do as sbr711 said -- check the level and add enough oil its above the minimum line, but not so much that it goes over the full line.

If you just dumped in a quantity of oil, then check it and correct it. If it's above full, drain a little out until it isn't anymore. If its below the minimum level, add a little more. As long as its between the fill marks, you're good.
 

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Is there a thread or anyone know how to do oil change on sonata sport 2018?
First get a Fumoto drain valve, a lot easier than wrenching the bolt every time with new washer.

Use ramps to drive front wheels on. You'll need a progression ramp as well or the front lip will scrap the ramp. Remove the access cover - mine is a smaller cover to access filter and drain. Better done with hot engine as the oil will flow better.

Get an oil filter wrench. Just loosen the filter enough to start the oil draining, wait until the flow stops before removing the filter. Fill new filter first with new oil before installing.

Hand tighten the filter. Fill with new oil (I use 5w-20, Hyundai recommended)

Engine takes 5.07 quarts. Just fill with five quarts then slowly add oil to the "F"

Replace cover - you're done. Check oil level after running then sitting overnight. You should get just over the full line to the "F".
 

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I would never even consider a 5w20 with Hyundai's GDI engine family 1.6T/2.0/2.4/2.0T history, and I wouldn't consider the extended 7500 mile interval either.

5w30 for the 2.4GDI severe service or <5k intervals
5w40 for the 2.0T/1.6T severe or <5k

On a new engine, its smart to change the oil/filter out earlier the 1st time.

Any name brand or store brand full synthetic is good enough for top-offs. Any name brand oil filter, with a silicone anti-drain-back-valve, is probably better than the OE filter. I haven't seen any that weren't better than the OE filter.

Remove drain plug, remove filter... wait a few minutes for all oil to drain out of both areas. Helps if you're on HarborFreight or RhinoRamps. Then fill new filter with oil, reinstall it, torque it, and reinstall & torque drain plug with new crush washer. Add remainder of 5 quarts of oil and top off as needed after running engine.

Hyundai Sonata: Engine Oil. Repair procedures - Revised - Lubrication System - Engine Mechanical System - Hyundai Sonata YF 2011-2018 Service Manual

If you can't figure out an oil/filter change by yourself, then have someone show you. There is much lacking in DIY instructions and youtube videos that can cause a clueless 1st timer DIY'er to ruin their engines. Just asking and starting this thread makes one worry about your capability. Most indie shops will let you watch, even from a distance, and explain how they do an oil/filter change. I'd start with that $60 lesson, or find a competent diy'er neighbor to help you.

I used 5w20 for 7 years in my 2011 Sonata, with no issues (170,000 miles). So I am quite curious to know what you know about 5w20 and GDI engines?



Changed oil every 5,000 miles and used Quaker State Full Synthetic. Please enlighten me as to why you would not use 5w20.
 

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I used 5w20 for 7 years in my 2011 Sonata, with no issues (170,000 miles). So I am quite curious to know what you know about 5w20 and GDI engines?

Changed oil every 5,000 miles and used Quaker State Full Synthetic. Please enlighten me as to why you would not use 5w20.
Certain driving styles + weather conditions can dilute the oil with blowby fuel. Viscosity is a cheap insurance against the condition until that fuel is vaped off during a longer trip. The other way to remove that thinned out oil is simply changing it more often. Hyundai is not the 1st automaker to be burned by GDI issues.

https://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2...necting-rod-wear-may-result-engine-stall.html
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/dm-2013-santa-fe/414457-big-sonata-engine-recall.html
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/dm-2013-santa-fe/554937-new-recall-2-0-2-4-engines-18.html
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2...-0t-engine-failures-class-action-lawsuit.html
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-2011-2014-sonata-i45/434457-2011-sonata-engine-seizure-recall.html
https://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-2...r-software-update-service-campaign-953-a.html
 

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I would never even consider a 5w20 with Hyundai's GDI engine family 1.6T/2.0/2.4/2.0T history, and I wouldn't consider the extended 7500 mile interval either.

5w30 for the 2.4GDI severe service or <5k intervals
5w40 for the 2.0T/1.6T severe or <5k

On a new engine, its smart to change the oil/filter out earlier the 1st time.

Any name brand or store brand full synthetic is good enough for top-offs. Any name brand oil filter, with a silicone anti-drain-back-valve, is probably better than the OE filter. I haven't seen any that weren't better than the OE filter.

Remove drain plug, remove filter... wait a few minutes for all oil to drain out of both areas. Helps if you're on HarborFreight or RhinoRamps. Then fill new filter with oil, reinstall it, torque it, and reinstall & torque drain plug with new crush washer. Add remainder of 5 quarts of oil and top off as needed after running engine.

Hyundai Sonata: Engine Oil. Repair procedures - Revised - Lubrication System - Engine Mechanical System - Hyundai Sonata YF 2011-2018 Service Manual

If you can't figure out an oil/filter change by yourself, then have someone show you. There is much lacking in DIY instructions and youtube videos that can cause a clueless 1st timer DIY'er to ruin their engines. Just asking and starting this thread makes one worry about your capability. Most indie shops will let you watch, even from a distance, and explain how they do an oil/filter change. I'd start with that $60 lesson, or find a competent diy'er neighbor to help you.



I second this posters opinion on never use 5-20 in a GDI when Hyundai has approved 5-30. To much fuel dilution in GDIs. The proof is there are a lot of oil analysis on Bob's backing the conclusion up. Don't always believe the manufacture that wants and has to have low CAFE figures. I would also suggest 5-30 Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum 5-30, all available at Walmart.
 

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Hyundai is not the 1st automaker to be burned by GDI issues.
None of those links blamed fuel dilution and/or 5w-20. Fuel dilution can affect any engine made worse by driving habits - such as short trips in cold weather where the engine runs rich longer. Certainly bad rings will allow fuel into the crankcase along with blow-by. I have yet to determine if raw fuel wash is a particular problem with GDI as the injectors are especially made for these engines. Raw fuel wash also should show up as unburnt fuel to the O2 sensor. If the injection timing can be delayed until the last possible moment in the compression stroke then there is not much time for fuel wash. I still don't have all of the facts about this, but am not ready to jump on every internet conspiracy theory by people who have a Hyundai axe to grind.

So far my UOAs have shown no fuel dilution with 5w-20 and the 170,000 miles with 5w-20 example means there is more to this than just blame GDI and Hyundai.
 

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Thanks for that info. I hope that using synthetic will make a difference; also will give serious consideration to changing to 5w30.


Once again, thanks.
 
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