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Hello everyone,

First of all thanks a ton for all the useful information on this forum. Its this information that made me a proud owner of a Sonata Limited.

My question is, I have only 300 miles on the car. When should I get an oil change the first time? I know the dealer recommends 3500 miles, but from another post it seems like a good idea to get the first one much sooner due to the break-in effects. Also, I'm planning to do oil changes myself (I do my Honda accord myself for last 2 years, it has 182,000 miles on it and still going good). I expect this Sonata to give me a performance like that.

Also what engine oil should I use and what is the filter I should buy?

Thanks again for your help.
 

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Follow the guide lines in the owners manual or dealer recommendations on oil changes .
If you want to second guess the engineers who wrote the manual ,please do so.
My first change was at 3750 as recommended by the dealer and the manual.
I wanted to have the dealer preform the first oil change because they also wanted to do a 26 point inspection of the car.
 

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i don't mean to thread hijack, but i have a relevant question to oil changes and following the guide...

lets say one does not drive enough to follow the manual for miles. for example, after three months you only have like 2700 miles. then after 6 months you only have like 5000 miles. all i hear nowadays is how the 3 months thing is bogus, but if you don't follow it will hyundai void your warranty if the time comes to use it?

i got my first oil change after 2700 miles because it had been right at three months, but now it's right at 6 months and it seems crazy to get another oil change after so few miles as long as i keep the level appropriate.

so anyway, my question is 3 years from now, something goes wrong. is hyundai going to refuse service if i follow the miles rule, but don't change it every three months as stated in the owners manual?
 

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Oil changes and warranty issues has been beaten to death. Here is my recommendation for those who worry about warranty (my opinion only, no right or wrong way). I do all oil changes myself at my own intervals:

- Follow owner manual for oil change intervals (every 7500 miles for normal driving) and use recommended oil grade, do it at the dealer for official records
- Change oil at every in-between oil changes yourself (since it is not recommended for normal driving, therefore un-necessary, no records are required if warranty issues arise), save a few dollars yourself, i.e., if you enjoy doing it yourself every 3750 miles or so.
- Owners manual recommends Quaker State, use any name brand oil (synthetic or dino), they all conforms to SM standards and you can mix brands, grades, blends as you wish (opinion only)
- Owners manual oil requirements are pseudo gospel, if you follow it and have official records, you should be fine when warranty issues arise.
- Engine warranty is 10 years/100,000 miles for original owner, BTW. Oil change, even at dealer is cheap, comparatively, cheaper than a full tank of gasoline. Why go cheap, especially if you can't sleep good over the issue?

There is no definitive opinion on oil issues, not an exact science as to when oil should be changed (oil analysis is a good way. does it cost more than an oil change and your wait; is it worth to you? Change oil more often is generally better, we all know that; new oil is better, but is it necessary? :)
 

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QUOTE (dynamike @ Nov 21 2010, 07:27 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=373526
Follow the guide lines in the owners manual or dealer recommendations on oil changes .
If you want to second guess the engineers who wrote the manual ,please do so.
My first change was at 3750 as recommended by the dealer and the manual.
I wanted to have the dealer preform the first oil change because they also wanted to do a 26 point inspection of the car.
Nowhere in the manual does it say an owner cannot follow an oil/oil filter maintenance schedule that is shorter than the one specified by Hyundai. It certainly will not harm the vehicle and I am sure the dealership would be happy to service the car more often than not. In this case, some owners like to change the oil and filter within a 1,000 miles or so to eliminate the debris left in the motor from the maunfacturing process sooner than the schedule calls for. In this day and age with modern manufacturing techniques, the amount of material is minmal but there is certainly nothing wrong with changing the oil and filter this early.

QUOTE (asick @ Nov 21 2010, 03:17 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=373516
Also what engine oil should I use and what is the filter I should buy?
Any 5w-20 API certified oil (conventional or synthetic) with a service grade of SM. People will defend different brands, and that is fine, but I think if you use an API oil you will do just fine. I would stick with the OEM Hyundai/Kia 26300-35503 filter. It's made by a company (MANN+Hummel) that has a very good reputation for making quality filters. Wix made filters (Wix, NAPA, Carquest, Parts Master) are well constructed filters. I've used them myself off and on, but I think the media they use is getting dated. Most are only 50 percent efficient at 25 microns (which was good 10 to 15 years ago). Purolator filters also are well made and their media is more effiecient at 22 or 20 microns. You can spend a lot more money for what I think are marginally better filters.
 
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I agree in general with ken99's post. I'm a person who changes oil extremely early, but thereafter I normally stay within manufacturer schedule. I only exceed manufacturer schedules if regular oil analysis supports doing so.

Ken99, do you know whether MANN+Hummel has a manufacturing facility (or subsidiary??) in Korea?
 

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My dealer has me on a 6 month or 6,000km schedule which is the normal driving conditions. But Hyundai then has a severe driving conditions which pretty much everyone falls under which is 3 months or 3,000km. They told me I can stick with the normal schedule and just monitor the condition of the oil at the next change. If it's bad then they would reconmend going down to the 3 month schedule but he said it should be fine. In Korea apparently they are on a much longer schedule for the exact same engine and car. The reason for the shorter time frames in NA came from the dealers. Since oil changes make up a big chunk of service if you say 1 year service schedule, dealers will loose a lot of money so they kinda strong armed the car brands to say 3 month schedule. Toyotas run on 6 month schedules and just about everyone else on 3 months. Doesn't explain why 2011 Hyundais now are on 6 month schedule when the same car in 2010 are on 3 months.

Eitherway if you decide to do your oil changes yourself keep all receipts for the filter and oil you bought. My friend had a engine replaced under warranty with Hyundai a few years back and it took 3 days for Hyundai to approve the work as they wanted receipts and all. They had Mr. Lube do most of the changes but did the last one themselves and luckily had the receipt from Walmart for oil and filter as Hyundai wanted all Mr. Lube receipts and then wanted the Wal Mart receipt for the one they did themselves.
 

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["But Hyundai then has a severe driving conditions which pretty much everyone falls under which is 3 months or 3,000km."]

The revenue stream part probably explains that this time table is coming from Dealers as I've seen "3 months" pop-up from several people. The Owner's manual Pg 7-17 states 3750 mi / 6 months for Severe.

What's worse, mechanics or Auto parts people I've asked suggest waiting til mileage ranging from 10-50K BEFORE using Synthetic, so this is a subject that's hard to get a handle on. I'm guessing they're using old philosophies their dads and uncles taught them from older cars technology - or lack of.

AND, the minute I told my mechanic I'd bought a new Sonata, he rattled off a story (after 5 repeats no telling what details were omitted) about a Hyundai warranty being denied Even with Receipts - so that was a good point to make about record keeping.
 

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QUOTE (Sonny Jim @ Nov 24 2010, 08:05 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=374490
Thank you! I didn't realize they had Korean operations, so when the filter I got from my dealer the other day said "Made in Korea" on it, I thought maybe there'd been a change.
You are welcome. If interested, I buy my filters from this outfit:

https://www.hyundaipartsonline.com/index.php

Nothing magical about this particular site, there are other suppliers on the internet. We actually have two Sonatas in the family, my Limited and a 09 GLS my daughter purchased afterwards. I like to keep a supply of both oil filters on hand. Its funny that she comes home to visit about the time the GLS needs an oil change. I'm seriously considering using the 26300-35503 canister on my new hemi. It cross references to the Mopar MO899 and Motorcraft FL820S I use on it now.
 

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I bought a couple oil filters and crush washers at my local dealership. The filters and washer were only $5 dollars a piece, so I bought a couple of them. I have been wanting to use AMSOIL synthetic oil for a while now after I read a detailed report on the various synthetic oils last year, and AMSOIL ranked as one of the best synthetics out there. Walmart doesn't stock AMSOIL, so I have always used the Mobil 1 extended or Castrol Syntec Edge oil on my other vehicles, just because it's so cheap and available. The parts guy at my dealership who sold me the filters was also a big synthetic oil guy (like me)...and he told me they actually stock AMSOIL at the dealership! So, I bought 5 quarts of AMSOIL from him. The oil wasn't cheap...especially since I remember looking at ordering some AMSOIL online directly and it seemed very reasonably priced online...right inline with the walmart prices of Mobil 1. But, I was already at the dealership, and he had the oil right there, so I decided to spend the little extra money for his oil rather than buying it online directly. I have about 600 miles on my Sonata, and I'll be changing the oil over to the AMSOIL synthetic this weekend.

After reading this "oil bible" I found online last year, it really dispelled some myths I have heard and read about oils. I don't have a link unfortunately, but it really was a good read...if you are into that kind of stuff. In general, after reading about every thread out there on oil brands, types, etc., I see no reason to save a few dollars and use "regular" dino oil. Synthetic oil is barely a few dollars more...and doesn't contain all the impurities that dino oil does. I know it's mostly a mental thing, and even dino oil meets all the standards. But, I enjoy changing my own oil, and the mental part of using a quality synthetic sits well with me for simply a few dollars more. Stick with synthetics is my vote and change the oil early on with your new car.
 

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QUOTE (ken99 @ Nov 21 2010, 01:58 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=373575
Nowhere in the manual does it say an owner cannot follow an oil/oil filter maintenance schedule that is shorter than the one specified by Hyundai. It certainly will not harm the vehicle and I am sure the dealership would be happy to service the car more often than not. In this case, some owners like to change the oil and filter within a 1,000 miles or so to eliminate the debris left in the motor from the maunfacturing process sooner than the schedule calls for. In this day and age with modern manufacturing techniques, the amount of material is minmal but there is certainly nothing wrong with changing the oil and filter this early.



Any 5w-20 API certified oil (conventional or synthetic) with a service grade of SM. People will defend different brands, and that is fine, but I think if you use an API oil you will do just fine. I would stick with the OEM Hyundai/Kia 26300-35503 filter. It's made by a company (MANN+Hummel) that has a very good reputation for making quality filters. Wix made filters (Wix, NAPA, Carquest, Parts Master) are well constructed filters. I've used them myself off and on, but I think the media they use is getting dated. Most are only 50 percent efficient at 25 microns (which was good 10 to 15 years ago). Purolator filters also are well made and their media is more effiecient at 22 or 20 microns. You can spend a lot more money for what I think are marginally better filters.

You can also use 5W-30 without a problem. I use it because AMSOIL doesn't have a suitable 5W-20 synthetic.
 
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QUOTE (ken99 @ Nov 24 2010, 09:05 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=374502
You are welcome. If interested, I buy my filters from this outfit:

https://www.hyundaipartsonline.com/index.php

Nothing magical about this particular site, there are other suppliers on the internet. We actually have two Sonatas in the family, my Limited and a 09 GLS my daughter purchased afterwards. I like to keep a supply of both oil filters on hand. Its funny that she comes home to visit about the time the GLS needs an oil change. I'm seriously considering using the 26300-35503 canister on my new hemi. It cross references to the Mopar MO899 and Motorcraft FL820S I use on it now.
That is kinda funny that she comes to visit on that schedule. :)
 

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QUOTE (jbobst @ Nov 24 2010, 10:56 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=374528
After reading this "oil bible" I found online last year, it really dispelled some myths I have heard and read about oils. I don't have a link unfortunately, but it really was a good read...if you are into that kind of stuff.
Most likely the "Bob is the Oil Guy" site. Google "BITOG" to find it.
 

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I am headed for my first oil change at the end of January. Frist thing I will ask is will it be syn or dino. After all I have read, the only thing that will be in (or stay in - will explain) is syn. Either way I will get it done at the dealer (I get them free for life of car anyway), but if not syn I plan to immediately drain and replace with syn. Went to the Wal*Mart to check out oils. My big surprise was that the Wal*Mart brand, had the best specifications. It is API Service SN (better than the rest which were still SM) and it was ILSAC GF-5 (not GF-4, or GF-3 which apparently is good enough). I don't feel bad about the drain and switch tactic as I recycle my oil and filters by taking them back to the Wal*Mart. I just want the best for my baby. As for Filters, I think the best is Purolator Pure One, but admit I don't know the specs of the OEM.
 

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QUOTE (ForensicDoc @ Nov 28 2010, 05:15 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=375239
I am headed for my first oil change at the end of January. Frist thing I will ask is will it be syn or dino. After all I have read, the only thing that will be in (or stay in - will explain) is syn. Either way I will get it done at the dealer (I get them free for life of car anyway), but if not syn I plan to immediately drain and replace with syn. Went to the Wal*Mart to check out oils. My big surprise was that the Wal*Mart brand, had the best specifications. It is API Service SN (better than the rest which were still SM) and it was ILSAC GF-5 (not GF-4, or GF-3 which apparently is good enough). I don't feel bad about the drain and switch tactic as I recycle my oil and filters by taking them back to the Wal*Mart. I just want the best for my baby.
Most life time oil service contracts offered by dealerships (especially "free" ones) use conventional oil and often use a cheaper aftermarket filter. I would call and find out exactly what products your dealership uses under these circumstances. I see no need to have the dealership service the vehicle for no good reason other than it is a "free" service. Since your Sonata is a new turbo, they may use something different compared to the normally aspirated models.

Walmart Super Tech oil is a good product. All are API certified. Most is manufactured by SOPUS, which is a marketing subsidiary of the Shell Oil Company. Here is a forum link that describes using SuperTech synthetic in a Hyundai:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?sh...c=48882&hl=

QUOTE
As for Filters, I think the best is Purolator Pure One, but admit I don't know the specs of the OEM.
No one has found published specs on the OEM filters sold by Hyundai. The manufacturer does have a reputation for making a quality product. You will find reports on the internet where guys have cut the Hyundai canister filter open to find it does contain quality components (silicon antisiphon valve, metal end plates and core holding the media, good amount of media that is well pleated, etc). None of these dissections have the ability to test the media, but it appears to be a synthetic or synthetic blend that's likely comparable to some of the better filters. Yes, I would agree that a Purolator would be a good second choice.
 

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Why trust a Hyundai oil filter over the $14. filters? The way I look at it is that Hyundai has a 100,000 mile warranty to protect. None of the other filter companies can boast that claim. I admit that I've bought many of the expensive filters over the years, but I'm now converted to buying OEM Hyundai. There is a Hyundai dealer in California that sells 10 packs on ebay. $45. + $10. shipping with the OEM washers taped to them. Hyundai Part # 26300-35503. Long live our Sonatas.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hyundai-Son...sQ5fAccessories
 
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