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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently did a oil change on my 2016 Hybrid myself and found the under engine cover to be a real nuisance.

Is there a trick to changing the oil WITHOUT having to remove the cover completely ? Is the cover REALLY that important ? Can I leave it off for easier oil changes in the future ?
 

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Don't you have access holes for drain and filter? The filter is a bit of a pain...
 

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I used a nut driver on a cordless drill to take all the bolts out....goes pretty quickly. The panel protects against water splashing up into the engine compartment and getting electrical stuff wet.

There is no access hole on the 2016 like previous models.
 

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I used a nut driver on a cordless drill to take all the bolts out....goes pretty quickly. The panel protects against water splashing up into the engine compartment and getting electrical stuff wet.

There is no access hole on the 2016 like previous models.
It may be there just to make it more aerodynamic, because it traps moisture and condensation...it doesn't "air-out" readily! I leave mine...got the access holes! Thanks!
 

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I recently did a oil change on my 2016 Hybrid myself and found the under engine cover to be a real nuisance.

Is there a trick to changing the oil WITHOUT having to remove the cover completely ? Is the cover REALLY that important ? Can I leave it off for easier oil changes in the future ?
I always thought it was there to improve the fuel economy. So if you don't care about maximizing your fuel economy, keep it off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It makes sense that its probably there for aerodynamics and to protect sensitive electronics from water, I think I'll keep it on.

It doesn't look all that durable and I worry that after a few years of oil changes it may not hold up to constant removal and installation.
 

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Yes, I also use a drill with nut driver and it is very fast. Actually, my cover is showing signs of other things (I bought it used after only 1 year and 20K miles on it) that might have happened. There were some cracks/tears and attach points missing. So I actually did some repairs to it. I agree it serves multiple purposes like aerodynamics and to protect from relatively light things like the water splash.
 

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Hence the reason I go to a place that does it. I get full synthetic every 5K. You drive in, stay in the car, they work underneath. I hear the guy with the power screwdriver for 2 min taking it off, then 2 min putting it back on.

Maybe do all but one in the back and swing the cover? I would use full synthetic for that reason, and the constant stop-start. Hey, a few bucks more.
 

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It makes sense that its probably there for aerodynamics and to protect sensitive electronics from water, I think I'll keep it on.

It doesn't look all that durable and I worry that after a few years of oil changes it may not hold up to constant removal and installation.
Simple solution.
Self tapping screws. Sheet metal screws...who cares.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How often do you change your oil ?

The owners manual recommends every 6 month or 7,500 miles (12,000km).

Since the motor doesn't run 100% of the time (Hybrid), should it be longer ?

I use synthetic and change every 12,000km

Discuss.........
 

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I run synthetic as well and change it every 5K miles. Change it at the even numbers like 5k, 10k, 15k, 20k, etc. The ICE don't run as long, but it starts/stops very often and this is where most "wear" comes from especially when cold...
 

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I run synthetic as well and change it every 5K miles. Change it at the even numbers like 5k, 10k, 15k, 20k, etc. The ICE don't run as long, but it starts/stops very often and this is where most "wear" comes from especially when cold...
The stop/start doesn't really cause much wear, even when cold -- definitely no more (and likely less) than the engine continuing to run. When the engine first starts, it stays on until the engine is warm; and once it is warm it doesn't hurt it to stop and restart -- the engine remains lubricated over those few minutes while the engine is stopped.
 

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Not my engine. I can get to work mostly on electric (15) miles and the motor barely runs and never even warms up. But that situation is probably not normal for most.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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For what it's worth, I sent my oil sample to Blackstone labs after running the engine for a few minutes (3 mile drive). It had a very high amount of gasoline in it. Prior to the 3 mile drive, I fully warmed up the engine when using it last (10-15 minute highway drive).

I personally change my oil every 7,500-10,000 miles, all synthetic.

At the same time, I strongly recommend at least weekly to run the engine for at least 15 minutes on the highway to ensure all gasoline in the oil evaporates and gets circulated into the intake. That way, the oil is still fully lubricating every bearing and oil ring there is. Weekly and/or as soon as possible after a not fully warmed up drive, if that makes sense.
 

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Why would gasoline be in the oil normally? Just from residue on the cylinders? I've never heard of this before on a normally functioning engine.
 

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For what it's worth, I sent my oil sample to Blackstone labs after running the engine for a few minutes (3 mile drive). It had a very high amount of gasoline in it. Prior to the 3 mile drive, I fully warmed up the engine when using it last (10-15 minute highway drive).

I personally change my oil every 7,500-10,000 miles, all synthetic.
Do you mind sharing fuel dilution numbers?
 

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I have been changing mine at the 3750mi severe service interval. I do 99% local driving and have sent several samples to Blackstone. Same issue here on every sample, fuel dilution. According to Blackstone it's borderline being a problem.

Miles on oil, Fuel %
3624 mi 3.3%
3742 mi 2.9%
3748 mi 3.3%
Those are the 3 samples (been doing every other oil change) in 15K.

I guess I need to get it on the highway on a more regular basis.
 

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Why would gasoline be in the oil normally? Just from residue on the cylinders? I've never heard of this before on a normally functioning engine.
From what I've read it's the result of direct injection engines. Injecting the fuel directly into the combustion chamber. I'm not a mechanic so there's probably other reasons but that seems to be one of them. My previous vehicles with DI generally have high fuel dilution on samples as well but never like my Sonata.
 

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This fuel dilution issue and the DI aspect makes sense. Also, with the colder motor this effect is increased due to the larger clearances... I bet my dilution is pretty high then because of my driving style to maximize MPG and takes a long time to warm up the motor...
 
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