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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings. Prompted by another thread, I finally am putting up my Blackstone labs oil analysis for perusal.

Basic stats:

Factory oil taken out by dealer at a little over 2,900 miles, replaced with Mobil 1 5W-30 which I supplied.

Mobil 1 5W-30 changed by me at a little over 8,300 miles with sample sent in for analysis. Mileage on that oil was 5,400.

http://s1110.photobucket.com/albums/h449/K...ilanalysis.jpg#

Discussion welcome, but PLEASE understand the nature of a breaking-in engine! I have seen a similar summary from a previous car at approx. the same mileage point and that engine did very, very well for me over 10 years of ownership.

The oil I have in there now, following the oil that was sampled, is Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended. I chose the Extended version not because I intend to stretch it to the nth degree, but because I believe my driving habits plus the nature of modern oils and engines will EASILY let me go to the 7,500 mile drain interval Hyundai allows for ideal driving even though the dealer acted like my engine will fall apart. I also chose the Extended version of Mobil 1 because it is one of a handful of true all-syntheic oils (Group IV). Many other "synthetic" oils (like regular Mobil 1) is allowed to be called that by law but still has some dino product in it.

I will change the current oil just before the 7,500 mark and send in another sample to see if my projection is correct. If not, I will be the first to admit it and make necessary adjustments. And of course, I am not suggesting anyone base their own oil change intervals on this. Not one of us drives exactly like the other. YMMV! I'm just interested in this for the science and technology of it.

And yes, I realize the cost of the sample would buy me a standard oil change. I'm doing it just for the fun of it and to establish if this oil can really go 7,500 with my driving habits.
 

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Oh my God your engine is going to lock up. No, I'm just kidding lol. I ran my 3.3 Sonata up to 14k miles, I'd change the CARTRIDGE filter half through, you 4 cylinders are lucky with the spin on you can get a Moibl 1, we can't. Results came back great, my wear was at or below the averages I believe.

Currently, I don't drive as much as I used to, I change the oil every 6-7k. I only change the filter when I change the oil. I used to do highway miles and USED to use Mobil 1 5W20 EP. Since I don't go as far, I just use the regular Mobil 1 5W20. I've been using it since 57k I believe before the warranty expired. Don't use any oil between changes. Rollin here with almost 107k miles.

If the Mobil 1 oil filter was available, I'd just change the oil and filter every 10-12k depending on your duty cycle. I drove strictly highway. Your warranty is something to consider. Since you wanna keep your warranty, I'd change the oil at the max interval which is 7,500 miles from Hyundai. I'd just use the Hyundai filter, or a Purolator(Made in America!) filter. I only use the Hyundai filter, since there is a size difference between oem and stock which can affect oil flow. If you see a cartridge filter you would know what I mean. Good numbers.
 

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QUOTE (Big B @ Nov 6 2010, 08:37 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369588
Oh my God your engine is going to lock up. No, I'm just kidding lol. I ran my 3.3 Sonata up to 14k miles, I'd change the CARTRIDGE filter half through, you 4 cylinders are lucky with the spin on you can get a Moibl 1, we can't. Results came back great, my wear was at or below the averages I believe.

Currently, I don't drive as much as I used to, I change the oil every 6-7k. I only change the filter when I change the oil. I used to do highway miles and USED to use Mobil 1 5W20 EP. Since I don't go as far, I just use the regular Mobil 1 5W20. I've been using it since 57k I believe before the warranty expired. Don't use any oil between changes. Rollin here with almost 107k miles.

If the Mobil 1 oil filter was available, I'd just change the oil and filter every 10-12k depending on your duty cycle. I drove strictly highway. Your warranty is something to consider. Since you wanna keep your warranty, I'd change the oil at the max interval which is 7,500 miles from Hyundai. I'd just use the Hyundai filter, or a Purolator(Made in America!) filter. I only use the Hyundai filter, since there is a size difference between oem and stock which can affect oil flow. If you see a cartridge filter you would know what I mean. Good numbers.

Mobile 1 filters are no where near the best available. the best available is generally the OEM.
 

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QUOTE (robspeedGLS @ Nov 6 2010, 09:20 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369599
Mobile 1 filters are no where near the best available. the best available is generally the OEM.

Oem filters are really high quality, as for M1 filters, they are on par with K&N, RP and high end Bosch filters. They are really good filters, just not worth the $$$
 

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GREAT , GREAT POST.
This is what this forum needs , someone to take the time to come up with some concrete evidence on oil changes .
It would be interesting to see the numbers if someone would have stayed with conventional oil.
That would show any benefits of synthetic oil.
Thanks again and in the future ,I will look foward to your posts with great interest.
 

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QUOTE (Klooks Kleek @ Nov 6 2010, 06:15 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369576
Greetings. Prompted by another thread, I finally am putting up my Blackstone labs oil analysis for perusal.

Basic stats:

Factory oil taken out by dealer at a little over 2,900 miles, replaced with Mobil 1 5W-30 which I supplied.

Mobil 1 5W-30 changed by me at a little over 8,300 miles with sample sent in for analysis. Mileage on that oil was 5,400.

http://s1110.photobucket.com/albums/h449/K...ilanalysis.jpg#

Discussion welcome, but PLEASE understand the nature of a breaking-in engine! I have seen a similar summary from a previous car at approx. the same mileage point and that engine did very, very well for me over 10 years of ownership.

The oil I have in there now, following the oil that was sampled, is Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended. I chose the Extended version not because I intend to stretch it to the nth degree, but because I believe my driving habits plus the nature of modern oils and engines will EASILY let me go to the 7,500 mile drain interval Hyundai allows for ideal driving even though the dealer acted like my engine will fall apart. I also chose the Extended version of Mobil 1 because it is one of a handful of true all-syntheic oils (Group IV). Many other "synthetic" oils (like regular Mobil 1) is allowed to be called that by law but still has some dino product in it.

I will change the current oil just before the 7,500 mark and send in another sample to see if my projection is correct. If not, I will be the first to admit it and make necessary adjustments. And of course, I am not suggesting anyone base their own oil change intervals on this. Not one of us drives exactly like the other. YMMV! I'm just interested in this for the science and technology of it.

And yes, I realize the cost of the sample would buy me a standard oil change. I'm doing it just for the fun of it and to establish if this oil can really go 7,500 with my driving habits.
So, what exactly should be gather from this test? Help me read it. Compared to the universal averages, it seems your oil contained much more aluminum, iron, copper, lead, molybdenum, manganese, potassium, silicon and barium. I understand the engine is breaking-in, but what parts contain these elements and what does this "excessive" wear indicate, if anything? And by the way, to me, this test clearly shows that modern engines do in fact break-in, which is in direct opposition to many drivers who claim they do not and elect to drive their cars "hard" from day one. I also noticed that compared to the universal averages, your oil contained less magnesium, phosphorus, and zinc. Is that good? I also noticed that both the SUS viscosity at 210*F and the cSt viscosity at 100*C (same temperature) fell in the low end of their respective ranges. Is that meaningful? Would changing the oil earlier have improved these test results? What conclusion did you gather from all this information? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
QUOTE (Blue07 @ Nov 7 2010, 06:38 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369647
So, what exactly should be gather from this test? Help me read it. Compared to the universal averages, it seems your oil contained much more aluminum, iron, copper, lead, molybdenum, manganese, potassium, silicon and barium. I understand the engine is breaking-in, but what parts contain these elements and what does this "excessive" wear indicate, if anything? And by the way, to me, this test clearly shows that modern engines do in fact break-in, which is in direct opposition to many drivers who claim they do not and elect to drive their cars "hard" from day one. I also noticed that compared to the universal averages, your oil contained less magnesium, phosphorus, and zinc. Is that good? I also noticed that both the SUS viscosity at 210*F and the cSt viscosity at 100*C (same temperature) fell in the low end of their respective ranges. Is that meaningful? Would changing the oil earlier have improved these test results? What conclusion did you gather from all this information? Thanks.
Blue07, great questions. Oil analysis for the average person (like me) is waaaayyy overkill, but fun to take a peak inside an engine in a scientific way. I concentrate almost 100% on the summary that's provided in a narrative in the Comments section. These guys are pros and see results from all sorts of automotive, industrial, military and other applications. They know what they are looking at. So bottom line, what I've gleaned from this interesting exercise is that my engine is breaking in nicely, my oil could have gone to 6,500 with no trouble and the TBN (Total Base Number, a measurement of the amount of active additive remaining in the oil) was strong and ready for more.

Sort of like sitting in a doctor's office, having him or her read off ream after ream of test results, and then finally looking up at you with your eyes glazed over before saying "Don't worry, you're doing great, kid!"
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
QUOTE (dynamike @ Nov 7 2010, 05:45 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369644
GREAT , GREAT POST.
This is what this forum needs , someone to take the time to come up with some concrete evidence on oil changes .
It would be interesting to see the numbers if someone would have stayed with conventional oil.
That would show any benefits of synthetic oil.
Thanks again and in the future ,I will look foward to your posts with great interest.
Thank you, dynamike. Admittedly, this is the kind of thing that can easily cause more questions than it answers. There is a lot of data there and it is all technical and scientific and thus needs to be interpreted with the appropriate training. That's why, as I just explained in another reply, I concentrate primarily on the written summary their experts provide in the Comments section of the report.
 

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A friend and I were just in a big discussion about this the other day and of course we couldn't come to any answers....


Your testing will certainly do that for us....

I just sent away for my kit .....

Thanks for the idea and posting this info, I never knew this was available to the public...I knew we tested the oil on the aircraft when I was in the Air Force and got readouts like yours at that time.....

Thanks again.
 

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Thanks for posting your UOA. I was curious if the direct injection would cause fuel dilution in the motor oil. It looks like that won't be a problem! You should see those wear metals tail off to a normal level between 10-15K miles.
 

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QUOTE (robspeedGLS @ Nov 6 2010, 10:20 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369599
Mobile 1 filters are no where near the best available. the best available is generally the OEM.
Based upon? While M1 might not be the best, without testing representation about OEM this is just a "shoot it and see if it sticks" type comment.

Are we talking only Hyundai OEM for the 2011 Sonata, OEM Hyundai in general or just OEM in general?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE (ctc1 @ Nov 8 2010, 12:01 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369928
Thanks for posting your UOA. I was curious if the direct injection would cause fuel dilution in the motor oil. It looks like that won't be a problem! You should see those wear metals tail off to a normal level between 10-15K miles.
YES! Good catch and sorry I did not point that important aspect out. Fuel dilution is only a trace (TR) with 5,400 miles on the oil, far below what Blackstone expects to see (less than 2.0).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
QUOTE (ctc1 @ Nov 8 2010, 01:08 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369941
Are you a member of BITOG?
No, although I have dropped in to look at threads, but probably not more than a handful of times. BITOG, for those who might be wondering, is Bob Is The Oil Guy and is probably the main source for oil geeks to talk about their passion:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/

The reason I decided to do an oil analysis was because of my previous car, a 2000 VW Jetta TDI (turbo direct injection diesel) that had very long oil change intervals provided the proper diesel-only oil was used. Those guys on the TDI forum are also major techno-geeks and I learned about oil analysis from them.
 

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The reason you would use Mobil 1 it has the claim that it can go up to 1 year or 15k, so it would have much more media that a standard filter.

The cartridge filter, OEM is the best way to go since after markets are not the same so they do not violate any patents. A cartridge filter is on several V6 models that Hyundai has, there is no metal canister just a filter element.
 

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QUOTE (Blue07 @ Nov 7 2010, 04:38 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=369647
I also noticed that compared to the universal averages, your oil contained less magnesium, phosphorus, and zinc. Is that good?
The modern SM oil standard limit the amount of zinc and phosphorus an oil manufacture can put in their oil due to their property to coat films on the catalytic converters and render them ineffective. The modern solution is replacing them with titanium additive or buy Zddp additive to replace the missing zinc and phosporus. Since modern car has roller cam, high zinc and phosphorus isn't a necessity compare to flat tapit cams. I assume that the oil went in for oil analysis has no after market additive so they are low.
 

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I do my own oil changes and buy Hyundai oil filters, also believe OEM is better, keep the receipts to establish a maintenance
record in case warranty repairs are needed. Have read oil picks up engine contaminants so don't like going over 5k
between changes. Hyundai recommends every 3k if driven under severe conditions.
 
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Hello. I'm new here, and a new Sonata owner. First, let me say thanks to Klooks Kleek for linking this UOA! Lubes are something I believe I have some experience and knowledge about. I am responsible for a fleet at work, and we use regular analysis of the used oil from that fleet to guide our maintenance schedules, and to detect problems before they cause failures. I do the same thing with my vehicles at home, and have for many years. Even used to do that with farm equipment, way back. I use Dyson Analysis for all my analysis work at this point.

I think this analysis reaffirms something that we might all conclude logically, but I'm not sure whether very many of us act upon? Engines do experience break-in for some amount of time after you take delivery of a new car, even with the excellent factory finishing and run-in procedures. You can see the somewhat higher (not disastrous by any means, but definitely higher) wear metals and contaminants in this analysis. To me, that means a person should change the factory-fill oil very soon. I changed the oil in our new Sonata a day or two after we got it home. I see no reason to leave the contaminants that you see here (and that I have seen in every single UOA from all new vehicles both in the work fleet and at home) in the engine. They surely do no good, and they could do harm from being in there.

I am very pleased to see that there isn't huge fuel dilution in this report. Some manufacturers experience very serious trouble with direct injected gasoline engines with respect to fuel dilution, but happily this analysis reinforces what I've found elsewhere, which is that Hyundai has done an excellent job engineering their system, such that this doesn't seem to be a really major issue for them (us!), as it is for some manufacturers. There's clearly fuel in the oil, as shown via Blackstone's flash point number (did you know that Blackstone merely makes a calculation from flash point to give their fuel dilution number?). Hopefully, this figure will improve over time as the engine settles in.

Klooks Kleek, is there a particular factor that caused you to choose 5W30 rather than either 5W20 or 10W30? I see that all 3 grades are recommended by Hyundai; I'm just curious.
 
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