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2020 Santa Fe Limited 2.0T Awd
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Discussion Starter #161
I have heard that using 91 octane instead of 87 can reduce the amount of fuel dilution in the winter time.

Not tried myself.
Last year I bought an Amazon fluid pump, to get out 2 quarts every 2 months during the winter. And pour in 2 fresh quarts.

Not a great solution but neither is having this theta 2 pos Granding during a summer road trip.
I was using 91 with my last 3 tanks of gas.
 

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Hello Everyone,

I recently got an analysis done that is quite interesting, so I thought I'd share.

A little Background info first:
I've owned my SF for almost 5 months now. I got my first oil change done at the dealer back in early March at ~2100 miles. I noted to the dealer that I suspected that the vehicle may be suffering from fuel diluting the oil as the oil level had gone above the full mark. The dealer told me that they couldn't find any huge red flags as they pulled just under 5.07 quarts when changed the oil (To my memory, 5.03 was the exact number). I didn't make a huge issue over it, and was going to keep a close eye on it. Going over my paperwork, I noticed that they put in conventional oil, which I would rather run synthetic as DI + turbo engines are pretty rough on oil. Anyway, at 666 miles on the conventional oil, I decided to change the oil. I bought an oil extractor from Harbor Freight. It has pretty good build quality and did a great job extracting the oil. It pulled just under 5 liters of oil. I used the Costco Kirkland brand synthetic 5W30 oil and will most likely be sticking to that along with the wix 51334xp filter. I didn't change the filter yet since I only ran 666 miles on the conventional oil. I plan to change the oil every 4-5k miles (depending on my next oil analysis) and change the filter every other oil change since it is rated for 10K miles so I won't have to crawl under the vehicle too often.

Now to the good stuff: The report.
Well, after only 666 miles on the oil, fuel has diluted the oil to a 0w20 viscosity. See the report below.
View attachment 446570

I will change the oil around 5800 miles and have another oil analysis done. If I feel like it or if the oil goes over the full mark, I will take it into the dealership again. Right now the oil level looks fine.
Your engine was not broken in properly! Put a cheap tuner chip from Amazon on the turbo to get that much fuel in your oil? and lead-foot red-line driving very short distances and never getting the oil up to temperature? There is no way that much fuel get into your engine oil for analysis. If you even drove 30 minutes the fuel would evaporate out of the oil. 2.5% fuel means you have a cup of fuel in 5 qts of oil In a gas engine. That analysis is typically for Diesel in oil, not gas. It is because gas with ethanol has a very low volitility temperature. I call BS.
 

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Your engine was not broken in properly! Put a cheap tuner chip from Amazon on the turbo to get that much fuel in your oil? and lead-foot red-line driving very short distances and never getting the oil up to temperature? There is no way that much fuel get into your engine oil for analysis. If you even drove 30 minutes the fuel would evaporate out of the oil. 2.5% fuel means you have a cup of fuel in 5 qts of oil In a gas engine. That analysis is typically for Diesel in oil, not gas. It is because gas with ethanol has a very low volitility temperature. I call BS.
Not sure where to even start here..........
 

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You are committing a fraud from your oil chemical analysis.

1). 2.5% gas in your oil means est. 1 cup of gas in 5 qts of oil. Gas will evaporate at even at 40F. How did you get 1 cup of gas to remain in your oil as detectable? if you drove the car for 30 minutes to heat the engine to 180F and oil to 200F. Modern car equipped with PVC-positive crank vent. The PVC would evacuate the gas and burn it in the combustion chamber. You are suppose to pull an oil sample from an engine that is at operating temperature, never cold. Even if the car was idling when the engine was stopped it would not leak 1 cup of gas into the oil, the fuel injection system does not hold that much gas at pressure for one cylinder. This suggests you put gas into your oil sample and engage in Fraud.

2). Gasoline either evaporates or react with the oil. Your oil analysis show high base level, Therefore the gas never reacted with the oil. That is impossible since you’ve stated the oil was in your car for 5,000 miles.

The chemical analysis show you deliberately put the gas into the cold oil for sample testing.

Your chemical analysis show you are fraulent.
 

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2019 Santa Fe Ultimate 2.4 L
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First off, I'm not here to argue or debate anything. You believe and do what makes you happy.
The CR-V was our 4th Honda. The previous ones were great cars. Non turbos.

I don't know everything but I've built motors, raced 1/4 mile when all we had were carburetors. Color tuning was an art. Rode, built motorcycles and ATV's.
My son has been a tech for 25 years. He maybe taking a position at GM's Milford Michigan testing grounds.

I'm here because we bought a Santa Fe. Not to get educated on the mechanics of a vehicle.
:)
 

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You are committing a fraud from your oil chemical analysis.

1). 2.5% gas in your oil means est. 1 cup of gas in 5 qts of oil. Gas will evaporate at even at 40F. How did you get 1 cup of gas to remain in your oil as detectable? if you drove the car for 30 minutes to heat the engine to 180F and oil to 200F. Modern car equipped with PVC-positive crank vent. The PVC would evacuate the gas and burn it in the combustion chamber. You are suppose to pull an oil sample from an engine that is at operating temperature, never cold. Even if the car was idling when the engine was stopped it would not leak 1 cup of gas into the oil, the fuel injection system does not hold that much gas at pressure for one cylinder. This suggests you put gas into your oil sample and engage in Fraud.

2). Gasoline either evaporates or react with the oil. Your oil analysis show high base level, Therefore the gas never reacted with the oil. That is impossible since you’ve stated the oil was in your car for 5,000 miles.

The chemical analysis show you deliberately put the gas into the cold oil for sample testing.

Your chemical analysis show you are fraulent.
I love how positive you are in your assumptions..........
The OP clearly stated he was a short tripper.

You know....there could also be something wrong with the engine, which was the whole point of his original post......

Putting gas in an oil sample.......thats fresh.
 

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First off, I'm not here to argue or debate anything. You believe and do what makes you happy.
The CR-V was our 4th Honda. The previous ones were great cars. Non turbos.

I don't know everything but I've built motors, raced 1/4 mile when all we had were carburetors. Color tuning was an art. Rode, built motorcycles and ATV's.
My son has been a tech for 25 years. He maybe taking a position at GM's Milford Michigan testing grounds.

I'm here because we bought a Santa Fe. Not to get educated on the mechanics of a vehicle.
:)
The base number he reported in his test was over 5. That is practically new oil that never reacted with the gas in the oil. Modern oils are designed to react with unborn fuel which turns acid. Not to react with the base and reduce the base number after 5,000 miles Is imposible. Especially with the amount of unburnt fuel in his car.

His own chemical analysis show he is engage in Fraud!
 

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The base number he reported in his test was over 5. That is practically new oil that never reacted with the gas in the oil. Modern oils are designed to react with unborn fuel which turns acid. Not to react with the base and reduce the base number after 5,000 miles Is imposible. Especially with the amount of unburnt fuel in his car.

His own chemical analysis show he is engage in Fraud!
HE ONLY HAD 666 miles on the oil for the sample.....
C'mon man, read the thread if you are going to be part of it.

Stop spouting nonsense and accusing people of things you could not possibly prove.

Fraud........there is a bridge that needs cleaning, I think you better go.
 

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I love how positive you are in your assumptions..........
The OP clearly stated he was a short tripper.

You know....there could also be something wrong with the engine, which was the whole point of his original post......

Putting gas in an oil sample.......thats fresh.
Every car since 1960’s have PVC. Raw gas will evaporate to undetectable amount with one 30 minute drive to heat the engine and engine oil. The gas will evaporate and get burnt in the combustion chamber.

What kind of fraudulent mechanic doesn’t understand the function of PVC or the volitility temperature of gasoline with ethanol?
 

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HE ONLY HAD 666 miles on the oil for the sample.....
C'mon man, read the thread if you are going to be part of it.

Stop spouting nonsense and accusing people of things you could not possibly prove.

Fraud........there is a bridge that needs cleaning, I think you better go.
I do not condone fraud. If he drove 666 miles the gas would vaporize from the hot engine oil into the PVC and get burnt. Raw gas would become undetectable. Especially at 2.5% or 1 cup gas in 5 qts of engine oil.

He is engaged in Fraud.
 

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I do not condone fraud. If he drove 666 miles the gas would vaporize from the hot engine oil into the PVC and get burnt. Raw gas would become undetectable. Especially at 2.5% or 1 cup gas in 5 qts of engine oil.

He is engaged in Fraud.
Sure man, sure.
Go back to bob is the oil guy, read ALL the thousands of UOA's on turbo DI engines, with 2.5 and higher fuel percentages.
City driving WILL do this.

I'm honestly done with you.
Have a nice day sir.

Fraud🤯
 

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Sure man, sure.
Go back to bob is the oil guy, read ALL the thousands of UOA's on turbo DI engines, with 2.5 and higher fuel percentages.
City driving WILL do this.

I'm honestly done with you.
Have a nice day sir.

Fraud🤯
The new Hyundai engine operate at 0.3 BSFC. That is a very efficient lean burn engine. There is no way a properly operating engine could dump more than 1 cup of unburnt fuel passed the piston rings and get into the engine oil, in 666 miles! Fraud.

What is your motive? Learn how to commit fraud against car manufacturers.
 

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Sure man, sure.
Go back to bob is the oil guy, read ALL the thousands of UOA's on turbo DI engines, with 2.5 and higher fuel percentages.
City driving WILL do this.

I'm honestly done with you.
Have a nice day sir.

Fraud🤯
Amount of failures needed to pour 1 cup of gas into 5 qt of hot engine.
1) Fuel injectors draining fuel into the cylinder and not get burnt during ignition.
2) Ignition failure
3) Piston rings completely worn and allow unburnt raw gas to spray into the hot running engine oil.
4) Engine oil fail to get hot enough to evaporate the gas for 666 miles!
5) PVC fail to evacuate the crankcase of unburnt gas
6) PVC unburnt gas vapors gets recycling back into the cold engine oil.
7). Unburnt gas failed to react with engine oil to reduce the base level.
8). Engine oil failure in chemistry to react with unburnt gas.
9) No engine or emission codes, and engine runs fine. Computer, sensors fail to detect huge amount of unburnt fuel.
10) Not 1 but 2 O2 sensors did not detect the high level of unburnt fuel getting dumped into the crankcase and out the exhaust pipe.
11). Did the cat get damaged burning that much unburnt fuel?
12). No EGT code for extremely hot exhaust??

Fraud
 

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My travel time to work is typical 30-45mins, 75% of that is on hwy but half of that is slow speed with congestion. Similar dilution level in winter and summer, although there is 0.25L less in summer than in winter but I only measured that once and not sure if it is consistent. As far as burning the fuel off when engine heats up + longer drive, it is not happening on my 2.0T.
 

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My travel time to work is typical 30-45mins, 75% of that is on hwy but half of that is slow speed with congestion. Similar dilution level in winter and summer, although there is 0.25L less in summer than in winter but I only measured that once and not sure if it is consistent. As far as burning the fuel off when engine heats up + longer drive, it is not happening on my 2.0T.
Its happening on A LOT of our cars, the thread is bringing this issue to light.
I have never measured, but I do remove and replace 2 quarts during the winter months.

I notice the non burning issue, I find it takes over an hour ic highway driving to burn some of the extra fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #178 (Edited)
You are committing a fraud from your oil chemical analysis.

1). 2.5% gas in your oil means est. 1 cup of gas in 5 qts of oil. Gas will evaporate at even at 40F. How did you get 1 cup of gas to remain in your oil as detectable? if you drove the car for 30 minutes to heat the engine to 180F and oil to 200F. Modern car equipped with PVC-positive crank vent. The PVC would evacuate the gas and burn it in the combustion chamber. You are suppose to pull an oil sample from an engine that is at operating temperature, never cold. Even if the car was idling when the engine was stopped it would not leak 1 cup of gas into the oil, the fuel injection system does not hold that much gas at pressure for one cylinder. This suggests you put gas into your oil sample and engage in Fraud.

2). Gasoline either evaporates or react with the oil. Your oil analysis show high base level, Therefore the gas never reacted with the oil. That is impossible since you’ve stated the oil was in your car for 5,000 miles.

The chemical analysis show you deliberately put the gas into the cold oil for sample testing.

Your chemical analysis show you are fraulent.
Your statements shows that you are a complete moron. I thought Tesla fan boys were bad. They are nothing compared to red cap wearing Hyundai fan boys like you. The foolishness is astounding.
 

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This person profess he took the 2020 Santa Fe 2.0 Turbo to the dealer. These engine issues are taken seriously at Hyundai. A Senior Mechanic with factory Diagnostic and Service tool most likely scanned the engine computer.

1). Dealer level scan tools can determine all cylinders compressions. It is able to compare the data with acceptable and normal operations, as well as compare cylinder to cylinder. This compression analysis can be performed without removing the sparkplugs and perform an old school compression test.

2). The dealer scan tool and with service diagnostic activated can overlay crank position (+- 0.1% angle accuracy), spark timing, fuel injector timing, knock sensor, O2 sensor, and determine which cylinder is firing and which cylinder is down on power by the rotation angle of the running engine.

There is no way an engine which leaks 1 cup of unburnt fuel into crankcase oil would pass these tests. The number of sensor failures to miss this catastrophic ignition and piston ring failures would not allow the engine to run.
 

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Last year I bought an Amazon fluid pump, to get out 2 quarts every 2 months during the winter. And pour in 2 fresh quarts.
Not a great solution but neither is having this theta 2 pos Granding during a summer road trip.
Will that Amazon fluid extractor take out more than two quarts of oil? What is the make & model of that extractor?
Thanks!
 
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