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Discussion Starter #1
Is the stock rotor diameter 11.0236 inches or 11.8 inches? Did they make a production change mid-model year? I am seeing those two values for plates for Sonata 11 non-turbo non-hybrid... and that's a pretty big difference...
 

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Couldn't edit above; 11.8 is the number I remember for the entire model year. That spec sheet above is for the 2.0T.
EDIT ... I posted a link prior to this, I guess the Mods have to approve it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Couldn't edit above; 11.8 is the number I remember for the entire model year. That spec sheet above is for the 2.0T.
EDIT ... I posted a link prior to this, I guess the Mods have to approve it.
I ordered from a company that said if the 11.8 wont fit send it back on their dime. But he was confident it would fit.

Weird on the new policy on links...
 

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are you upgrading brakes? didn't think she drove enough to go thru a set of brakes. when i traded mine in, at 62K, the last 'courtesy check' showed i still had like 7-8mm of lining left.

or did the little woman warp one?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
are you upgrading brakes? didn't think she drove enough to go thru a set of brakes. when i traded mine in, at 62K, the last 'courtesy check' showed i still had like 7-8mm of lining left.

or did the little woman warp one?
No warpage, just lacking "bite". Also going to bleed the system, yet again, to remove the spongy feeling.
 

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As taken from "shop" section at HMA --

Front disc brake
Type
Ventilated disc

Disc O.D.
Ø 300 mm (11.81 in)


Disc thickness
28 mm (1.10 in)

Caliper piston
Single

Cylinder I.D.
Ø 60 mm (2.36 in)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As taken from "shop" section at HMA --

Front disc brake
Type
Ventilated disc

Disc O.D.
Ø 300 mm (11.81 in)


Disc thickness
28 mm (1.10 in)

Caliper piston
Single

Cylinder I.D.
Ø 60 mm (2.36 in)
Perfect! Have you had to deal with many spongy pedals for the YF?
 

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No customer concerns seen here.. I suspect a good bleed with all new fluid may help. Might consider stepping into DOT-4 for the higher boil point if you maybe a bit heavy on the brake pedal.

We have DOT-4 in Hyundai packing, for use with recall (brake fluid change) on EQUUS, Genesis models.
 

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2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport
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I have warpage on mine. Not going to do another swap until springtime but the vibration is mildly annoying. The sad part is, I dont really brake hard (usually downshifting with the manumatic function on the tranny)

Used Raybestos brakes/Bendix rotors and totally not satisfied. I guess I get what I pay for. Next time I will go OEM everything.

fear---you and I had the same mileage when I did my brakes. Best I have ever gotten out of a set of pads!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No customer concerns seen here.. I suspect a good bleed with all new fluid may help. Might consider stepping into DOT-4 for the higher boil point if you maybe a bit heavy on the brake pedal.

We have DOT-4 in Hyundai packing, for use with recall (brake fluid change) on EQUUS, Genesis models.
LOL! You will get a kick out of this. They don't DO that at Superior. Its not a provided service. If I bring the car in for diagnostic they might recommend changing the brake fluid.... WTF!
 

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What are you working on bear?

Spongy pedal = turning brake fluid, and / or a lateral run out on rotors (can give the affect of a "lower" brake pedal)

Ill run it through HMA parts system to see listings.
 

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Here is a screen shot for the front brake rotors for all YF sonatas made in the USA. I omitted other regions.

Looks like the same part # for all models.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What are you working on bear?

Spongy pedal = turning brake fluid, and / or a lateral run out on rotors (can give the affect of a "lower" brake pedal)

Ill run it through HMA parts system to see listings.
Part of it is comparing it to my Fusion. I drove the Sonata again yesterday and its a long stroke to engage. Then once engaged its soft to the floor. Not confidence inspiring. Since this is the wifes car I dont mess around with it. It has to be 100% all the time.

Certainly seems fluid related but I have to find a competent dealer as I suspect there is a leak/pin hole somewhere. The dealer near me has been quoted as saying "We don't do that.". I have a trusted mechanic that could bleed it for me but I am afraid if I have him do it then Hyundai will say its done wrong and cause me grief.
 

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I have warpage on mine. Not going to do another swap until springtime but the vibration is mildly annoying. The sad part is, I dont really brake hard (usually downshifting with the manumatic function on the tranny)

Used Raybestos brakes/Bendix rotors and totally not satisfied. I guess I get what I pay for. Next time I will go OEM everything.

fear---you and I had the same mileage when I did my brakes. Best I have ever gotten out of a set of pads!
Warpage of rotors is many times caused by improper torqueing of the wheel lug nuts. You have to use a torque wrench in a star pattern when tightening lug nuts on the wheels. If you don't rotate your own tires then be very careful of the shop you use and ask them to torque the lug nuts to the proper specs (which are in your owner's manual).
 

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i ask them to do that all the time, using a torque wrench please. They all insist that the torque sticks are legit and work fine. no, that is the easy lazy way to do it. i usually go home and re torque them by hand (as they should be in first place).

i shouldn't have to stand on my lug wrench to break the lug nut loose.

i ask you...are torque sticks accurate or just the easy way out???
 

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Warpage of rotors is many times caused by improper torqueing of the wheel lug nuts. You have to use a torque wrench in a star pattern when tightening lug nuts on the wheels. If you don't rotate your own tires then be very careful of the shop you use and ask them to torque the lug nuts to the proper specs (which are in your owner's manual).
Agreed.

I do my own rotations and torque them to spec. Really the only regular use my torque wrench gets.

The last time a shop touched my car was the dealer that did my CV axles. That was a few weeks ago and ironically when the vibration was first noticed!

Probably was the straw that broke the camel's back.:rolleyes:

Admittedly, I did do a quick check of my pads over Thanksgiving weekend (they have squeaked since Day 1 even after proper bedding in) to see if I had gravel/dirt trapped between the pad and rotor face and just spun the lugs back on using my impact gun on the medium torque setting. Its a cheapo Harbor Freight one, so if anything I under-torqued my lugs.

However, when I had my factory pads/rotors, I never torqued lugs just put them on using the impact at full torque. Those rotors gave me no vibration even up to the last few weeks they were on my car and my pads never squeaked.

Verdict: these pads/rotors are crapola and neither company will get my business again. The money saved does not make up for the aggravation caused.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i ask them to do that all the time, using a torque wrench please. They all insist that the torque sticks are legit and work fine. no, that is the easy lazy way to do it. i usually go home and re torque them by hand (as they should be in first place).

i shouldn't have to stand on my lug wrench to break the lug nut loose.

i ask you...are torque sticks accurate or just the easy way out???
No idea. Anytime my car is taken to the shop and they have to take the wheels off; I drive home and loosen and re torque them.

Not sure how OEM stacks up price wise but I got EBC blanks; red stuff pads for 222 shipped to my door. Looked at Napa (local) and they wanted 121 per PLATE. Good grief!
 

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Well goodluck with the EBC stuff. I resolved my brake issues by installing the R1 concept components. No more pulsation! the rear rotors were the problem all along.

Rockauto was nice enough to refund me all my money for the power stop components i had on the car as well.

I paid about 320 for pads and rotors shipped (front and rear) from r1 concepts.
 
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